Advice about a 1976 Falcon

oldbobcat

Is that a Reynolds 531 decal on the seat tube? It looks as though you've got a prime example of a top-drawer mid-70s sport tourer. Any way you look at it, there's nothing wrong with this bike that a little TLC can't set right. But don't ride it until the quick release on the front wheel is set correctly--it looks like it's not cammed, just hand-tightened.

Strip it down and repack the bearings. Replace chain and freewheel. Slide the rear derailleur cable stop closer to the dropout so the housing makes a nice round loop, and make sure it won't slip. Wash and wax. Lose the brake extension levers. If necessary, replace stem and handlebar to your fit. Ebay has plenty of nice quill stems and alloy bars that will work well. True wheels and replace rubber, cables, housing, and brake pads as needed.

Two cool things about Reynolds 531 is that it is not so thin-walled that a little "patina" will weaken it, and it's a helluva lot more rust-resistant than Columbus. J.P. Wiegle markets a product that's sprayed in the inside of steel frames to prevent corrosion. You might want to use this for insurance. For external rust, clean up with steel wool and touch-up paint.

This bike doesn't need upgrading or restoration but I won't argue if that's what you decide to do. It's a neat rider that will catch eyes and start conversations. It's definitely cooler than the Raleigh International I used to ride back then.

artemidorus

The Zero was all over the Allied planes until the arrival of the Hellcat, a design newer by three wartime years (a huge design time interval given the fervent changes in technology occurring at the time). It didn't need armour and self-sealing tanks until then, as it wasn't commonly on the receiving end of punishment from Wildcats, Buffaloes or Kittyhawks. It even carved up the few Spitfires sent to the Far East.
Forgetting discussions about the obsolescence of all battleships at the time, the "Yamato" and her sister were the most powerful battleships ever constructed.

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geardad

531 is what that decal says, alright!

As for your other suggestions, like repacking the bearings, should I attempt this if I've never done the procedure before? I'd be concerned about doing it right, accurately spotting things needing replacing, re-assembling properly.

move RD closer to drop out? meaning, closer to the closed end or to the open end? the dropouts have those adjusting screws....


geardad

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oldbobcat

Repacking bearings isn't rocket science. Using appropriate tools, dismantle the bearing, soak the parts in kerosene or your favorite non-flammable solvent, dry, replace damaged parts, repack and reassemble, and adjust by feel--there should be no play but the bearing shouldn't bind, either. Don't worry if you overtighten a bit, just loosen and try again. When it all feels good, batten down the lockrings and test again.

There are numerous inexpensive books on bike repair that can show you the whole process. This is the way I started on my first bike in 1971, because the local shops couldn't be trusted to do it right. Now I don't need a book. Hint--if one of your ball bearings looks like a raisin it should be replaced before it does serious damage to the rest of the bearing.

Regarding the rear derailleur--refer to the attached BMP. There is a plated cable stop screwed around the right chainstay. When you remove the derailleur for cleaning and remove the shift cable for replacement and clean the spring housing (soak it in solvent), remove the steel cable stop that is attached to the stay. Clean that and reattach it over the scratch on the stay just forward of the dropout so the spring housing makes a nice elliptical loop between it and the derailleur. If you can't get the cable stop tight enough to stay put, see if your local shop has a smaller replacement. Now dry the housing and reassemble with a new shift cable that has a light coating of grease where it passes through the housing. Most newer bikes have brazed on cable stops.

It's highly unlikely that anything's seriously wrong with the rear derailleur that can't be fixed with cleaning and adjustment. It's all alloy and stainless steel. A bent B-screw or B-screw flange isn't a show stopper and the angle of the derailleur body looks fine as is. If the cage hangs straight down and the wheels spin, it's OK. I've seen jockey wheels running closer to the big cog than that, but if after adjustment it still runs rough, just get a freewheel with a slightly smaller cog.

This bike is a find. It's not exotic or state-of-the-art, even for 1976, but it exemplifies the best work in the traditional style of British builders of the period. It's interesting that it uses the Carlton-style wrap-over seat stay.

Attached Images

falconRD.bmp (82.6 KB, 4 views)

geardad

I feel *extremely* fortunate to have found it. I'm glad it's steel (GOOD steel, too) I'm glad it's old-school compared to today's exotic, and IMO, silly modern bikes.

and I'm glad that it is in SUCH good shape...a little attention to the rust, some careful attention to bearings, new brake cables, new freewheel and I will have myself ride which could most likely last me til the end of my days...which, thanks to cycling and good genes, stands to be some time from now!

Also, I'm continuing to be very grateful to your helpful suggestions... I feel that I can tackle the repacking of the hubs and the replacement of the freewheel (assuming I can FIND one new, or new-ish) prbly not the BB, but I know a great bike shop that will inspect/replace for a modest sum.

I guess I need to source and buy the supplies and parts I need to git at these repairs..

actually, the chain busted yesterday JUST as I crested a hill the wife and I are training on. I can assure you this chain, whatever its age, owed me nothing. it looked old in design and had serious rust on its links..


gd

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alfeng

Okay, let me try this again since you (geardad) are clearly choosing to not pay attention (which is absolutely your prerogative!) ...

The BB that is generally used with that particular (barely used, based on looking at the backside of the chainrings) crankset (i.e., the one the Campagnolo sells for the crankset) on your Falcon is a cartridge BB ... it is generally NOT serviced ... certainly, not by someone like yourself who has yet to understand regular lubrication of any-and-all EXPOSED moving parts (i.e., the rusty chain!) is important -- your chain is/(was) a moving part that needs to be lubricated!

FYI. Based on the fact that the prior owner had changed so many components, I would presume that s/he had re-packed the hub bearings at that time (the last few years) and they are probably NOT in need of immediate (or, in the next few years) service (unless the bike was sitting in the bottom of a swimming pool OR river/lake) BUT your chain apparently was!

This is stating what should be obvious, but I'll mention it since you do not seem to have a signficant amount of prior mechanical experience -- you will need at least TWO CONE WRENCHES (they come in different sizes) + light "automotive" grease to re-pack your bearings. CONE WRENCHES are amongst the tools you probably do NOT already have in your toolbox, so you need to buy them from your LBS, mail-order (e.g., Nashbar), or eBay -- you need to know the size of the NUTS on the particular hubs.

While you can glean ALMOST ALL the information you need through the PARK TOOL website & other venues, do yourself a favor and buy one of Zinn's maintenance books -- at this point, the one related to ROAD BIKES would be the better choice for you.

REI used to have "seminars" (a small fee is involved, AFAIK) on bicycle maintenance ... if there is an REI near you, then you should call to see if they still have them & plan on attending one if they do.

BTW. Freewheels are legion ... and, will be generally availble for the next few dozen years if not in perpetuity.

Have you replaced the rear derailleur cabling & housing, yet, OR did you go for a ride with the bike as previously pictured?!?

When you do change the rear derailleur cable & housing, lubricate it with a thin layer of grease.

geardad

Alfeng;

I thank you for the multi-color, multi-fontweight response to my mechanical feebleness. I am glad to know about the BB cartridge.

In my own defense, I'd say that I do in fact understand the need for lubrication; the chain and other parts were rusty as I got them; I picked up this bike on Saturday.

It's had 36 years prior to that to be neglected by other people, but I intend to change that.

While I do have an entry-level set of bike tools (which includes cone wrenches), I do not, as you point out, possess significant mechanical experience, but I'm hoping to change that, or at least learn about it in a way that doesn't harm this bike.

Thank you!

geardad

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Camilo

Geardad: go to a book store and look at their bike maintenance books and buy one that seems the most applicable to the stuff you're doing. Way back in the 70s, I had a 60s/70s vintage road bike and knew nothing about nothing. I bought a "complete guide to bicycle maintenance and repair" (Glenns for those of you who know about it), and without any other advice or instruction, completely dismantled that bike, lubed everything, and completely reassembled it and rode it for many more years. I would then repack all bearings yearly until I got tired of it .

On one minor issue - I would NOT assume that since the prior owner replaced so many parts that he/she did bearing service. I probably wouldn't have, unless it was something I knew how do do and thought the bike needed it. There is no reason to assume that just because someone can muddle through putting on new derailleurs and cables (and I emphasize "muddle" because - look at that rear derailleur cable!) that he/she knows anything about bearing service.

Good luck and I'm envious of your find. I'm now lookign for a good quality old school frame to restore into a commuter.

alfeng

HMmmm. Okay, but between Saturday & "yesterday" you could have lubed the chain ...

Compare the "Tin Man" before being oiled, and after!

Unlike many in the Forum who like to use more exotic lubes, I generally prefer simple OIL for my chain -- but, if I were riding a MTB along a muddy trail, I might consider something more/(other) than oil.

BTW. The recent replacement of several key components suggests that the bike wasn't quite as neglected as you suggest -- all things considered, the rust is minimal, and the components are certainly good-enough (Tiagra is at the low end of the upper echelon of Shimano's road components, BUT most Shimano components are pretty good, if not actually equally good).

You know, IMO, other than the pedals, the only truly sub-standard component on the bike (as recently pictured) might have been the brake levers (even with the "suicide levers" removed) ... but, the ones that are on the bike probably aren't that bad, and in the end it partly becomes a matter of preference.

I don't know what the hubs/rims are, but (based on the nipples) I can see that the rims were apparently (re-)laced to the hubs with DT spokes ... all-in-all, a nice bike with more-than-good-enough-components as you received it.

FWIW Those "entry" level toolkits are fairly good for what they include & ARE a good value for people who do not have any bike tools. The cone wrenches that are included MIGHT BE the only tools that you'll actually replace at some point in time since the steel is not hardened (AFAIK) ... but, the rest are generally LIFU, and those are actually pretty good quality.

alfeng

Good point.

kdelong

All of the previous posters have given you some great information but I'll add my two cents in anyway. A great book that is readily available nation wide in Barnes & Nobles, Borders Books, and a lot of bike shops is The Bicycling Guide to Complete Bicycle Maintenance & Repair for Road & Mountain Bikes, by Todd Downs. It is published by Rodale Press and runs $20 $25.

The grease that I have found best for lubricating wheel bearings and headset bearings is white lithium grease. You can pick up a tube of it at any Lowes or Home Depot, or auto parts store. Don't get the spray on lithium grease as it is not the same stuff.

When you get your new chain, you can lubricate it with almost any oil but there are many chain specific lubes out there that you might want to try.

BTW-Nice bike. I have an old Raleigh Grand Prix from that era but it needs completely stripped and repainted. Right now I am looking for authentic looking decals for it.

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geardad

I had, at one time, a copy of richard's bicycle book, by richard ballantine..dunno if it's on par with the titles you're all mentioning, but IIRC, it was pretty good.

I think such a book would be a very good investment..I'd like to be more capable of dealing with bike maint. than I am...

geardad

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Camilo

I HAVE a copy of Richards that I can actually put my hands on. It's in my box of misc. bike parts in the garage. It might be perfect for bearing service for a bike your age. It might not be applicable to the modern parts on your bike. I don't believe my Richard's addresses index shifting for example.

I don't have my Glenn's any more. My Richard's is the size of an average paperback book. Glenn's was like a mid-city phone book. Another book I had back then was called "Anybody's somethingoranother"

Anyway, a new book is probably in order, but you may find Richard's good for some things as well.

You can find a lot of this instruction on line - e.g. Sheldon Brown or Park Tools. But, I find I need to print those pages out to use them and then, in spite of my good intentions, have never put them in a notebook for later use. Therefore, I have to find and print them next time I need them. I'm about to go to Barnes and Noble to buy an actual, modern book.... although I pretty much have the basics down on a modern brifter type road bike or indexed shifting V- or cantelever brake MTB.

garage sale GT

You need to go to a library for a book on fixing older stuff.

You may need a fw remover to repack the rear hub unless you want to try my method from another post in which you remove the lh cone and tap the axle out gently to the right. Don't forget to check the rear axle for straightness by rolling it across something flat, whatever you do. The method does not work on later Shimano 7-speed fw hubs.

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