hippy:
> "Jose Rizal" <_@_._> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Things to look for in a good frame:
> > - straight gauge tubing, be it aluminium or steel (beware of
> > trick-sounding jargon like "butted", "double-butted", or even "triple
> > butted" when it comes to frame tubing)
>
> What's wrong with butted tubing?
> I had butted vegemite toast this morning and it was great...
>
> But seriously: What's IS the issue with butted tubing?
The purpose of butted tubing is to reduce frame weight, the theory being
that you can have thinner sections between the butted ends of a tube
where load stresses are less. However, the weight savings are usually
less than what you typically lose after morning ablutions, but the cost
increase is quite phenomenal, unreasonably disproportionate to any
weight savings, in my opinion. The other issue with butted tubing is
that there is no telling how thin (and hence, how strong) the thin
sections are; at the "stupid-light" end of the spectrum, these thinner
walls are easily dented.
Other marketing claims are made of superior stiffness, compliance and
such with butted tubing. These are simply marketing BS. You will not
notice any difference in ride "feel" between a butted and straight gauge
frame; all the other components carrying the rider's weight such as the
tyres and saddle have "compliance" effects that are orders of magnitude
greater than what frames can produce.
> > A good V-brake (and most of them are good enough) is much better than
> > a cheap disc brake.
>
> Is this still the case? I've seen some cheap disc brakes on
> phantom.com.au and heard some good things about them
> Are there still "k-mart quality" disc brakes that people
> should beware of? Which brands are junk?
I've encountered cheap and nasty disc brakes from DiaTech and Tektro,
and have not heard many good things about Formulas, adjustability and
reliability being the biggest issues. I can't see any relatively cheap
disc brakes from phantomcycles, but the cheapest there, the Hayes
mechanical, is nothing like its hydraulic counterpart. The Hayes mech
is difficult to install, requires an allen wrench to adjust the only
adjustable pad (the inner one), exhibits inner pad toe out (ie the inner
pad leading edge touches the rotor first), and has a flimsy rotating
caliper lever (what the cable pulls on). For mechanical disc brakes I
think the Avid is the best choice, but it comes at a premium price.
It's not much cheaper than Hayes XC hydraulics (which aren't bad).