"Albert N. Mouse" <
[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm assuming this is a silly question: Are there bikes out there that have frames/tires that could
> handle a larger person riding? I don't want to invest in a bike that is going to fall apart as
> soon as I sit on it.
My experience is as a rider who started at age 18, 6'9", and 280 lbs. I pedaled my way all the way
down to 220 lbs. or so, and back up to my present 360 lbs. over the course of quite a few years now.
In the process I learned a lot about building a bike for a heavy load. Having gotten into
engineering and machining, I now make a lot of my own stuff to suit my purposes. Almost all my bikes
have in common 48 spoke wheels and pinch-bolt BMX cranks, neither of which are normally used on road
or mountain bikes.
If you are not very tall, then I expect you could have a much easier time getting equipped for
cycling than I have.
I agree with the above respondents who say that a mountain bike-- more specifically, a fat-tire 26"
wheel bike-- is the way to start. I would add that you should avoid any sort of suspension devices
as these are rarely adjustable enough to work properly for someone our size.
The upside is that it is difficult to spend very much on a mountain bike with no suspension at all,
and such bikes represent very good value. Until and unless your weight returns to a more average
level, get used to the idea of spending a little money and effort making a "standard issue" bike
work better for you.
First, seek out a shop with a good and prolific wheelbuilder. You'll want the shop's wheelbuilder to
thoroughly tension and stress-relieve your wheels before you take delivery of the bike. It's best if
these wheels have 36 spokes rather than 32, and double-wall rims are better than single-wall rims at
any given rim weight.
See if there are any available bikes with internal gear hubs-- the 7-speed variety of these hubs
offer a wide range of gears and build into *much* stronger rear wheels than 8/9 speed cassette hubs
do. Wheels for derailleur bikes can be built strong, but start with a distinct handicap in the form
of extreme dish.
If you get to the point of riding hard at a heavy weight, you face the possibility of breaking the
normal square-taper type of crank spindle. This has caused me serious debilitating injury, which is
why I no longer use this type of crank. It's probably OK to start riding with a crank of this kind,
but if you find that you are doing vigorous riding regularly, consider switching to a crank with a
stronger spindle, for instance one designed for downhill racing.
If you are uncomfortable with your saddle as equipped (which is likely), you should replace with one
of a more generous proportion. Though many larger "comfort" saddles are equipped with springs, you
should avoid these for the same reason that you avoid suspension forks: They will probably not work
correctly under your weight, and are likely to bottom out frequently, fall apart, and/or pinch you.
An exception to this general rule is Brooks sprung leather saddles, which feature very stiff springs
and have worked well for me.
The front and rear linear-pull brakes you are likely to get by default should be fine for you,
unless they have been neutered with "anti-lock" devices. Do whatever you must to be rid of these if
your bike is so afflicted.
If you plan to ride only upon pavement or smooth gravel trails, consider switching to the smoothest,
most treadless tires you can find, like Ritchey Moby Bite or Avocet Fas-Grip City 1.9. Such tires
give you the smooth ride and wheel-protection benefits of their fat casings without slowing you down
buzzing knobs on the ground. The difference is noticeable. You will of course need to keep your
tires aired up; 60psi in a 2" wide tire is a good starting point. Adjust to suit your taste and
surface conditions.
Pedals and seatpost are likely to be cheap items that may bend in use. Replace as necessary with
better quality parts and the problem will not be chronic.
There are some bikes, intended for jumping, that have been upgraded throughout for strength. A bike
like the Kona Scab would need no structural upgrades regardless of how robustly you intended to ride
it.
http://www.konaworld.com/2k3/2k3_scab.cfm So even though it costs more than an entry-level MTB,
it is more of a "turn-key" approach to your situation.
Chalo Colina
