Dynamo Front Lights - what shall I buy?

Richard Bates wrote:
> Right, I've decided upon a Schmidt 28 hub dynamo. I have also decided
> that a lamp with a standlight is what I want. I also want BS approval.


> i) Busch & Muller Lumotec Plus round halogen dynamo front light with
> standlight & switch. This lamp has a Z-diode to prevent overvoltage.
>
> So can I use this lamp as is, without a rear light?

I think most people swap the bulb to 3W if used without tail lamp.



- Nigel

Richard Bates wrote:
> Right, I've decided upon a Schmidt 28 hub dynamo.

Showing you are a man of taste and fine judgement...

> i) Busch & Muller Lumotec Plus round halogen dynamo front light with
> standlight & switch. This lamp has a Z-diode to prevent overvoltage.
>
> So can I use this lamp as is, without a rear light?

Yes, this is what I have on the Brom (though without the switch, I have
one that's soldered in separately).

> ii) Busch and Muller Oval Plus Switchable Headlamp. This claims to
> have the switch on the earth side.
>
> Is that good?

I don't know, but why bother with a switch when you can get the one with
the sensor that automagically switches the lamps on for you? I know it
sounds like a pointless gimmick but it actually works very well. I only
got it because that's what HP Vel fitted when I ordered the dynohub
lamps with the new bike, but having been using it for a while now I'd be
happy to order it off the shelf. From experience I know it works and
works well.

> iii) Schmidt E6 and Schmidt E6-Z

Not used these, though have heard good reports.

Guy's moaned about the round B&Ms though I've got a couple and they
don't give me any grief (one did have to go back with a bust clip that
holds front and back together though, but its (free) replacement and the
subsequent one on the 8 Freight have been fine). The Oval Senso Plus on
the tourer convinced me I like dynamo lighting and has been excellent.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

Richard Bates wrote:
>
> Right, I've decided upon a Schmidt 28 hub dynamo. I have also decided
> that a lamp with a standlight is what I want. I also want BS approval.
>
> What do you recommend I pair it up with? Busch & Muller Lumotec seem
> to be mentioned quite commonly in the same sentences as Schmidt, but
> there seem to be a number of options.
>
> i) Busch & Muller Lumotec Plus round halogen dynamo front light with
> standlight & switch. This lamp has a Z-diode to prevent overvoltage.
>

nasty switch (i've got one and daren't turn it of), not much of a
standlight. Thumbs down

> So can I use this lamp as is, without a rear light?

use a 3w bulb, a 2.4 burns very bright, but not necessarely very long
>
> ii) Busch and Muller Oval Plus Switchable Headlamp. This claims to
> have the switch on the earth side.
>
> Is that good?

This has a toggleswitch fitted by SON and strong coax wiring
Earth side means the switch doesn't work if you connect it to a
hubdynamo made in Singapore.

> Does this lamp also have the Zener Diode?

yes
>
> iii) Schmidt E6 and Schmidt E6-Z

E6 doesn't have a standlight, Z is the additional version for 6/12V

>
> iv) Busch & Muller Lumotec Oval Senso Plus round halogen dynamo front
> light with standlight & switch.

works fine, but it doesn't have the fancy Schmidt wiring.

--
---
Marten Gerritsen

INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL
www.m-gineering.nl

Richard Bates wrote:

> Right, I've decided upon a Schmidt 28 hub dynamo. I have also decided
> that a lamp with a standlight is what I want. I also want BS approval.

I don't think any of these German ones have BS approval, but TUV
approval would probably satisfy most courts if you were knocked off (IANAL).

> What do you recommend I pair it up with? Busch & Muller Lumotec seem
> to be mentioned quite commonly in the same sentences as Schmidt, but
> there seem to be a number of options.
>
> i) Busch & Muller Lumotec Plus round halogen dynamo front light with
> standlight & switch. This lamp has a Z-diode to prevent overvoltage.

Avoid it - not very reliable.

> So can I use this lamp as is, without a rear light?

Best to fit a 3W bulb.

> ii) Busch and Muller Oval Plus Switchable Headlamp. This claims to
> have the switch on the earth side.
>
> Is that good?

SON setups should have the switch on the earth side.

> Does this lamp also have the Zener Diode?

Yes, but still fit a 3W bulb. The Oval is more reliable than the round
one, but the standlights frequently fail on all B&M lamps. I have the
non-standlight version for a bottle dynamo and it is pretty good.

> iii) Schmidt E6 and Schmidt E6-Z

E6 has a slightly more focused (squarer) beam than the B&M lamps. It's
very expensive and has no standlight or reflector. The Z version is for
use as a second lamp.

> iv) Busch & Muller Lumotec Oval Senso Plus round halogen dynamo front
> light with standlight & switch.

Has an auto light-sensitive switch if you want to use it.

Personally I'd have the E6 if money was no object, followed by the Oval
Plus.

Richard Bates wrote:

>
> iv) Busch & Muller Lumotec Oval Senso Plus round halogen dynamo front
> light with standlight & switch.

I actually have this one with a 3W bulb and the E6-Z in 12V mode. I have
only just started using it in 12V mode; after 2 winters of just the
Lumotec Oval Senso Plus. The Lumotec on it's own was fine on unlit roads
with no traffic but not bright enough to really componsate for the loss
of night vision when cars pass. As my new commute takes me along busy
roads for most of the time and I felt I needed more light. With the E6-Z
I have no concerns about this or about going faster than I can see on
unlit country roads.

So good in fact that I look forward to the night time ride.

--
Chris

m-gineering wrote:
> Richard Bates wrote:
>
>>Right, I've decided upon a Schmidt 28 hub dynamo. I have also decided
>>that a lamp with a standlight is what I want. I also want BS approval.
>>
>>What do you recommend I pair it up with? Busch & Muller Lumotec seem
>>to be mentioned quite commonly in the same sentences as Schmidt, but
>>there seem to be a number of options.
>>
>>i) Busch & Muller Lumotec Plus round halogen dynamo front light with
>>standlight & switch. This lamp has a Z-diode to prevent overvoltage.
>>
>
>
> nasty switch (i've got one and daren't turn it of), not much of a
> standlight. Thumbs down

I've also had the contacts fail on one Lumotec N Plus, and
the Lumotec N Plus on my Birdy eats more bulbs than I think
it should. I'm replacing it with an E6, and on my tourer
I'm now having an E6/E6-Z 6/12v system.

Simon

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 00:28:38 GMT, Simon Proven
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I've also had the contacts fail on one Lumotec N Plus, and
>the Lumotec N Plus on my Birdy eats more bulbs than I think
>it should. I'm replacing it with an E6, and on my tourer
>I'm now having an E6/E6-Z 6/12v system.

I have a small pile of broken Lumotecs waiting to go back for
replacement.

Guy
--
May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 11:22:18 +0100, Richard Bates
<[email protected]> wrote:

Thanks, folks.

I've ordered a Schmidt 28 built into a Mavic MA3 silver, with a B&M
Lumotec Oval (Manually Switched).

Now I *NEED* a matching rear rim - and sadly I can't see any 7spd hubs
on SJS.

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Richard Bates wrote:

> Now I *NEED* a matching rear rim - and sadly I can't see any 7spd hubs
> on SJS.
>
That's 'cos they're as rare as rocking horse poo these days. Can't you
get your existing hub rebuilt? Hubs can last indefinitely if looked after.

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 19:00:59 +0100, Zog The Undeniable
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Richard Bates wrote:
>
>> Now I *NEED* a matching rear rim - and sadly I can't see any 7spd hubs
>> on SJS.
>>
>That's 'cos they're as rare as rocking horse poo these days. Can't you
>get your existing hub rebuilt? Hubs can last indefinitely if looked after.

1) Hub is screw-on freewheel.
2) Hub hasn't been looked after.


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"Richard Bates" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news[email protected]...
> On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 19:00:59 +0100, Zog The Undeniable
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Richard Bates wrote:
> >
> >> Now I *NEED* a matching rear rim - and sadly I can't see any 7spd hubs
> >> on SJS.
> >>
> >That's 'cos they're as rare as rocking horse poo these days. Can't you
> >get your existing hub rebuilt? Hubs can last indefinitely if looked
after.
>
> 1) Hub is screw-on freewheel.
> 2) Hub hasn't been looked after.

8/9 speed will take a 7 speed cassette with a spacer. Or do you need a 126mm
one?

cheers,
clive

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:39:51 +0100, "Clive George"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>"Richard Bates" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news[email protected]...
>> On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 19:00:59 +0100, Zog The Undeniable
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >Richard Bates wrote:
>> >
>> >> Now I *NEED* a matching rear rim - and sadly I can't see any 7spd hubs
>> >> on SJS.
>> >>
>> >That's 'cos they're as rare as rocking horse poo these days. Can't you
>> >get your existing hub rebuilt? Hubs can last indefinitely if looked
>after.
>>
>> 1) Hub is screw-on freewheel.
>> 2) Hub hasn't been looked after.
>
>8/9 speed will take a 7 speed cassette with a spacer. Or do you need a 126mm
>one?

Erm ... dunno. Wheel is cheap-and-nasty that came with the bike.

I am surprised that SJS don't have decent 7 speed hubs, since they
pride themselves on stocking older stuff.

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On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:39:51 +0100, "Clive George"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>8/9 speed will take a 7 speed cassette with a spacer. Or do you need a 126mm
>one?

Frame appears to be 126mm but being steel it should be okay squeezing
a 130mm into it. If I'm feeling brave I may follow the Sheldon Brown
(Bzzzt!) advice and cold set it.

I've ordered a 105 8/9 speed on a Mavic MA3.

I've never had posh hubs before.
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On 22/10/04 9:16 pm, in article [email protected],
"Richard Bates" <[email protected]> wrote:

> On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:39:51 +0100, "Clive George"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> 8/9 speed will take a 7 speed cassette with a spacer. Or do you need a 126mm
>> one?
>
> Frame appears to be 126mm but being steel it should be okay squeezing
> a 130mm into it. If I'm feeling brave I may follow the Sheldon Brown
> (Bzzzt!) advice and cold set it.
>
I did mine before it was resprayed. Quite nerve wracking.. I got some M8
threaded bar and nuts/washers. This was used to gradually open out the rear
forks. I got to about 180mm before I reached the yield point. Rear spacing
is now 128 which will happily take both my existing 7sp 126mm ultegra rear
and my to be bought 8/9speed 130mm race wheels.

> I've ordered a 105 8/9 speed on a Mavic MA3.
>
> I've never had posh hubs before.

A good wheel makes a world of difference. Mine are still running well after
many tens of thousands of miles..

...d

On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 22:32:13 +0100, David Martin
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I did mine before it was resprayed. Quite nerve wracking.. I got some M8
>threaded bar and nuts/washers. This was used to gradually open out the rear
>forks. I got to about 180mm before I reached the yield point. Rear spacing
>is now 128 which will happily take both my existing 7sp 126mm ultegra rear
>and my to be bought 8/9speed 130mm race wheels.

***********, that sounds like a lot of effort for a 2mm result.
I hadn't thought of stopping at 128mm though: I assumed I'd be forcing
until the space was naturally 130mm.

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On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 22:32:13 +0100, David Martin
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I did mine before it was resprayed. Quite nerve wracking.. I got some M8
>threaded bar and nuts/washers. This was used to gradually open out the rear
>forks. I got to about 180mm before I reached the yield point. Rear spacing
>is now 128 which will happily take both my existing 7sp 126mm ultegra rear
>and my to be bought 8/9speed 130mm race wheels.

***********, that sounds like a lot of effort for a 2mm result.
I hadn't thought of stopping at 128mm though: I assumed I'd be forcing
until the space was naturally 130mm.

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Interesting thread...

So beyond the obvious advantages of the SON hub it seems that the
Schmidt produced lamps are best for not only lasting value but beam
pattern.

I was leaning toward the SON hub with a Lumotec round/standlight (I
like the idea of a built in reflector) but now perhaps I should shell
out for the E6 or if money is too tight go the route of the B&M Oval.

One question... my headlamp is going to be mounted on the front of my
front rack (a Nitto rack that has a tab for lamp mounting off the
shelf) is there anyway to fix the B&M Oval to a mount without the long
neck being used or is the neck on it part of the body housing?

Thanks












David Martin <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<BD9F3AED.2430D%[email protected]>...
> On 22/10/04 9:16 pm, in article [email protected],
> "Richard Bates" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 20:39:51 +0100, "Clive George"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> 8/9 speed will take a 7 speed cassette with a spacer. Or do you need a 126mm
> >> one?
> >
> > Frame appears to be 126mm but being steel it should be okay squeezing
> > a 130mm into it. If I'm feeling brave I may follow the Sheldon Brown
> > (Bzzzt!) advice and cold set it.
> >
> I did mine before it was resprayed. Quite nerve wracking.. I got some M8
> threaded bar and nuts/washers. This was used to gradually open out the rear
> forks. I got to about 180mm before I reached the yield point. Rear spacing
> is now 128 which will happily take both my existing 7sp 126mm ultegra rear
> and my to be bought 8/9speed 130mm race wheels.
>
> > I've ordered a 105 8/9 speed on a Mavic MA3.
> >
> > I've never had posh hubs before.
>
> A good wheel makes a world of difference. Mine are still running well after
> many tens of thousands of miles..
>
> ..d

On 23/10/04 9:33 am, in article [email protected],
"Richard Bates" <[email protected]> wrote:

> On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 22:32:13 +0100, David Martin
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I did mine before it was resprayed. Quite nerve wracking.. I got some M8
>> threaded bar and nuts/washers. This was used to gradually open out the rear
>> forks. I got to about 180mm before I reached the yield point. Rear spacing
>> is now 128 which will happily take both my existing 7sp 126mm ultegra rear
>> and my to be bought 8/9speed 130mm race wheels.
>
> ***********, that sounds like a lot of effort for a 2mm result.
> I hadn't thought of stopping at 128mm though: I assumed I'd be forcing
> until the space was naturally 130mm.

It started at 124. I thought I had got it to 130 but it was either mis
measured or relaxed a bit so ended up at 128 and I couldn't be bothered to
go through the whole palaver again.

...d

Riv_Rider wrote:

>
> One question... my headlamp is going to be mounted on the front of my
> front rack (a Nitto rack that has a tab for lamp mounting off the
> shelf) is there anyway to fix the B&M Oval to a mount without the long
> neck being used or is the neck on it part of the body housing?

It's part of the housing.
BM ovals are available with 0.5m lenght of wiring and 1.0m with loose
plugs. 0.5m is probably not enough for your setup.

---
Marten Gerritsen

INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL
www.m-gineering.nl