In article <
[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> In article <
[email protected]>, David Kerber wrote:
> >In article <
[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> >> In article <
[email protected]>, David Kerber wrote:
> >> > In article <
[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> >> >> In article <
[email protected]>, John001 wrote:
> >> >> >Can you hook up a GPS to a dynamo while cycling rather than carring spare batteries
> >> >> >rechargers etc?
> >> >>
> >> >> Yes you can. I have powered eg video camera with bicycle dynamo. All you need is a diode and
> >> >> a volt-meter. If you do not know what diodes and volts are, please stay home :-/
> >> >
> >> > You can get by without a voltage regulator? What about some caps to smooth the waveform?
> >>
> >> You forgot the *Fuse*. 20 Amps or more does not break easily and thus you do not need more than
> >> dozen spares.
> >
> >I wasn't just throwing out terms I've heard of somewhere; it was a serious question: can you get
> >a good charge of a video camera's battery with just a rectifier, and without a voltage regulator
> >or capacitors?
>
> Ok. Seriously. Pulsed current is factually preferable in some cases.
>
> The procedure is as follows:
>
> You go to the local Radio-Shack-type store and get a Diode of almost any kind, providing it can
> take some 2 amperes of current. Also you buy a voltmeter of cheapest kind.
>
> You connect the Diode to the dynamo and check how much DC voltage is coming through it. If there
> is more volts than in your battery you can start charging. Depending on which way you happened to
> connect the Diode, the positive current comes either from the diode or from the bike body. This is
> positive current is connected to the plus-plug of the battery.
>
> To avoid overcharging you charge the battery full at home and check how much voltage it does have.
> While biking you check the voltage of the battery regularly. Soon you will learn how much time the
> charging takes and can quit checking. This applies to NiCd or NiMH-types of batteries.
I see: a manual charge regulator. Very ingeneous! <Grin>.
> Lithium-batteries are more difficult. Fortunately the Dynamo-Diode produces pulsed current, which
> is needed. Voltmeter is useless, but you can use the camera to check if the battery is full and if
> the charging current is strong enough -- some large Lithiums need more than dynamo's 0.5 Amps.
>
> Also if the battery gets noticeably warm, you are either over-charging or you have messed up the
> wiring and you are actually discharging. Continue this and the battery *will* explode.
>
> Fact is that I have never managed to overcharge 3000 mAh battery with the dynamo. They are always
> half-empty anyway, especially if the you resort to the "free-energy"-regime, that is if you use
> the dynamo only while riding down-hill.
>
> This must be the longest explanation anyone can give from one-component circuit... <grin>
Well, let's see: you have 1). the generator, 2) The diode, 3) The battery, and 4) The
voltmeter. <Grin>
Seriously, I thought you would likely damage the battery with unregulated voltage, but I guess with
low-frequency and low-power pulses, you might get away with it. Of couse, going to a full-wave
rectifier would nearly double your charge rate, but also cause more power loss via more voltage drop
across the diodes, and give the batteries less rest time as well.
I've got a bunch of NiMH batteries, so this might be worth messing with if I can find a generator
which uses a two-wire circuit instead of using the bike frame as one leg of it (I don't like the
thought of putting a hole in my bike's paint job when it's less than two months old <GG>).
Thanks for the info!
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