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Updating a classic Schwinn Voyageur SP

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Hello,
I've got a classic, circa 1982 Schwinn Voyageur SP touring bike
with about 70K miles on it. It has been my trusty daily commuter, and
touring bike since I bought it new way back when. It has 120mm rear
drop-out spacing and 27" wheels. I'd like to bring it up to date so
that I can shop for parts in more bike shops than just Recycle Cycles
(nothing against Recycle Cycles).

I know I can cold-set and realign the rear dropouts but I was
wondering about whether I can replace my 27" wheels with 700C wheels
and have the brakes still align with the rim. I want to move up to
linear pull brakes instead of the calipers I have now. I tried a 700C
wheel on the bike and it looks like the rim is about 1/4" shorter on
the radius, so my brake pads overlap the edge of the rim by that
amount. Any suggestions?

Arnie
post #2 of 7

Re: Updating a classic Schwinn Voyageur SP

In article <1146193933.699458.146100@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
diarmaede@yahoo.com wrote:

> aberger@u.washington.edu wrote:
> > I was
> > wondering about whether I can replace my 27" wheels with 700C wheels
> > and have the brakes still align with the rim. I want to move up to
> > linear pull brakes instead of the calipers I have now... Any suggestions?
> >

> Nashbar (www.nashbar.com) was selling a set of dual-pivot, long reach
> brakes recently, but I have not seen them on the site for the last few
> weeks. If they come back, those will probably work. A friend just
> used them on an old Peugeot, and they work very well.


http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...1014&brand=&sk
u=11499&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=

Recommended. I use one on the front of my commuter bike. The design
appears to be a house-branded Tektro.

It is not guaranteed these will solve your problem, but if you are using
a reasonably short-reach caliper right now, this will probably save you.

On the front, if all else fails you can swap forks. 700c steel forks are
plentiful and cheap. At the rear, very long reach single-pivot brakes
are available from the BMX world, but you probably won't have to resort
to that.

--
Ryan Cousineau rcousine@sfu.ca http://www.wiredcola.com/
"I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos
post #3 of 7

Re: Updating a classic Schwinn Voyageur SP

aberger@u.washington.edu wrote:
> Hello,
> I've got a classic, circa 1982 Schwinn Voyageur SP touring bike
> with about 70K miles on it. It has been my trusty daily commuter, and
> touring bike since I bought it new way back when. It has 120mm rear
> drop-out spacing and 27" wheels. I'd like to bring it up to date so
> that I can shop for parts in more bike shops than just Recycle Cycles
> (nothing against Recycle Cycles).
>
> I know I can cold-set and realign the rear dropouts but I was
> wondering about whether I can replace my 27" wheels with 700C wheels
> and have the brakes still align with the rim. I want to move up to
> linear pull brakes instead of the calipers I have now. I tried a 700C
> wheel on the bike and it looks like the rim is about 1/4" shorter on
> the radius, so my brake pads overlap the edge of the rim by that
> amount. Any suggestions?
>
> Arnie
>


The cheapest way out is to make some adapters to lower the brake
calipers. Sheldon Brown describes how to do this using pieces of
aluminum stock:
<http://www.sheldonbrown.com/home-drop.html>

To set up "linear pull" (AKA "V-brakes") you need cantilever studs on
the frame and fork and brake levers specifically designed for V-brakes.

You might be able to find "long reach" calipers, but sometimes the
braking is mediocre with such long arms, an adapter can improve this.
post #4 of 7

Re: Updating a classic Schwinn Voyageur SP

<aberger@u.washington.edu> wrote in message
news:1146187530.683120.26130@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Hello,
> I've got a classic, circa 1982 Schwinn Voyageur SP touring bike
> with about 70K miles on it. It has been my trusty daily commuter, and
> touring bike since I bought it new way back when. It has 120mm rear
> drop-out spacing and 27" wheels. I'd like to bring it up to date so
> that I can shop for parts in more bike shops than just Recycle Cycles
> (nothing against Recycle Cycles).


I've got a classic 1983 Schwinn Voyageur SP that was ridden 3 years and not
ridden since then. It is in great shape and I'll sell it to you. It has
cantilever brakes and is the champagne brown/gold color.

Pat in TX
post #5 of 7

Re: Updating a classic Schwinn Voyageur SP

aberger@u.washington.edu wrote:
> Hello,
> I've got a classic, circa 1982 Schwinn Voyageur SP touring bike
> with about 70K miles on it. It has been my trusty daily commuter, and
> touring bike since I bought it new way back when. It has 120mm rear
> drop-out spacing and 27" wheels. I'd like to bring it up to date so
> that I can shop for parts in more bike shops than just Recycle Cycles
> (nothing against Recycle Cycles).
>
> I know I can cold-set and realign the rear dropouts but I was
> wondering about whether I can replace my 27" wheels with 700C wheels
> and have the brakes still align with the rim. I want to move up to
> linear pull brakes instead of the calipers I have now. I tried a 700C
> wheel on the bike and it looks like the rim is about 1/4" shorter on
> the radius, so my brake pads overlap the edge of the rim by that
> amount. Any suggestions?
>
> Arnie
>

As you know, you can fit the 700C wheels to the bike. The brake calipers
can sometimes be bent to account for the difference is wheel diameter
(4MM on the radius IIRC). I have done this without trouble, but cannot
recommend the practice to someone else. Sometimes the slots that hold
the pads can be filed to get a little further reach (also not
recommended). As someone else mentioned the caliper can be dropped with
a small extender plate (described well by Sheldon Brown). I think it is
called a brake extender bolt. Otherwise you need to get longer calipers.

I would recommend changing to the linear pull (LP) brakes you mention.
IMO they have much greater braking power than the caliper brakes I have
used. To make the change you will need to have lugs (for want of the
proper name) brazed to the seat stays and fork to provide a pivot point
for the linear pulls. Alternately you can buy an adapter plate which
bolts into the caliper mounting hole and accommodates the LP arms etc. I
have not tried this but it does appear to be a better solution than
brazing lugs on a nice paint job. I do not know it you will need new
brake levers to get the proper mechanical advantage for the LP brakes
(perhaps someone else can comment on this).

For the front you might also get a used fork fitted with LP brakes.

HTH,
EJ in NJ
post #6 of 7

Re: Updating a classic Schwinn Voyageur SP

27" tires are easy to find and dirt cheap. I like the Nashbar Prima
Plus 2's. They have a kevlar belt, rarely flat, and are pretty supple
and lively feeling. For ten bucks each, you can't go wrong. Paselas are
nice as well.

I'd keep the wheels, but slap on a 7spd hyperglide freewheel and chain.
Will improve shifting immensely.

Brake levers of that vintage can get crusty, some new Tektro aero style
ones can be had for less than new hoods.

Upgrade brake pads to Koolstop Continentals. Often you can find them
for 4/$8 on Ebay.


I've swapped my 27s for 700c, as the original wheels were shot,
Fortunately my old Shimano calipers worked fine. If you need an extra
mm, just use a rat tail file.
post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 

Re: Updating a classic Schwinn Voyageur SP

Thanks for all the advice. The bike came set-up as an all-out touring
bike with cantilever brakes front and rear. Thus, it already has
cantilever bosses brazed to the frame and fork. The cantilever brakes
that I have on the bike right now would not work with the 700C wheel
because the angle that the pads would hit the rim would be too extreme
(I'd only be braking on the upper edge of the pad until the rubber wore
away.

I looked at a pair of linear pull brakes at a local shop and they
appear to have about 1/2 of up-down travel adjustment, so I'll borrow a
pair and try them out with a 700C wheel off of my road bike. This thewn
leaves the problem of trying to get these brakes to work with Ultegra
STI levers....

After thinking about it some more, I think I'll take Sheldon Brown's
advice and stick with 27" wheels. Rebuilding with a 36 hole, 9-speed
cassette hub and 27" rims will allow me to keep my cantilever brakes.

Arnie
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