How to Remove Shimano Cranks



B

BeeRich

Guest
Hi folks.

I want to remove my Shimano cranks (XT) and I can't seem to get them
off. I took out the hex nut, but she's pretty solid. Do I need a
puller at all? These things are on there solid, but I don't see how
they are on so tight.

I just shot some lubricant in there, and I'll give it overnight to
penetrate.

Any advice needed.

Cheers
 
On May 28, 3:12 pm, BeeRich <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi folks.
>
> I want to remove my Shimano cranks (XT) and I can't seem to get them
> off. I took out the hex nut, but she's pretty solid. Do I need a
> puller at all? These things are on there solid, but I don't see how
> they are on so tight.
>
> I just shot some lubricant in there, and I'll give it overnight to
> penetrate.
>
> Any advice needed.
>
> Cheers


You need to know *which* XT cranks you have. Take a look at
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=122
and
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=120
and
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=103
to determine which you have. A picture would help.

Jeff
 
Bee Rich writes:

> I want to remove my Shimano cranks (XT) and I can't seem to get them
> off. I took out the hex nut, but she's pretty solid. Do I need a
> puller at all? These things are on there solid, but I don't see how
> they are on so tight.


> I just shot some lubricant in there, and I'll give it overnight to
> penetrate.


XT cranks are two piece, the spindle being permanently attached to the
right crank, the left one, the removable one, fits on a fine spline
and is secured by two pinch bolts. Loosening the pinch-bolts allows
manually pulling the crank off the spindle. Assembly should be with
grease between spindle and crank to prevent corrosion and facilitate
removal. This is not a friction joint and gets its strength from face
contact pressure between crank and spindle spline ribs.

When you say you removed "the hex nut", I suspect you don't have these
cranks:

http://tinyurl.com/2wjbq8

Scroll to the bottom of this page.

Jobst Brandt
 
On May 28, 8:03 pm, landotter <[email protected]> wrote:
> On May 28, 6:12 pm, BeeRich <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Hi folks.

>
> > I want to remove my Shimano cranks (XT) and I can't seem to get them
> > off. I took out the hex nut, but she's pretty solid. Do I need a
> > puller at all?

>
> Yup.
>
> http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=120


If its not a ISIS drive. You need a puller and it better be a real
good one. There may be a washer from the removed Allen or Hex bolt in
there. Had that happen once.
 
On May 28, 5:12 pm, BeeRich <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi folks.
>
> I want to remove my Shimano cranks (XT) and I can't seem to get them
> off. I took out the hex nut, but she's pretty solid. Do I need a
> puller at all? These things are on there solid, but I don't see how
> they are on so tight.
>
> I just shot some lubricant in there, and I'll give it overnight to
> penetrate.
>
> Any advice needed.
>
> Cheers


If you have a Hollowtech(spline type BB), need a little plug,
available at the LBS, for the puller to push against. If you have
square taper XT cranks, just the puller..make sure it's screwed in all
the way. Don't use the self extractor cap, if there is one, these caps
are aluminum, cheezy and if the splines(if HT) are not greased, this
will blow up.
 
On May 28, 8:06 pm, JeffWills <[email protected]> wrote:

> You need to know *which* XT cranks you have. Take a look athttp://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=122
> andhttp://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=120
> andhttp://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=103
> to determine which you have. A picture would help.
>
> Jeff


Hi Jeff. Thanks for the reply. This is the one:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=103

So this is what I need:

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=26&item=CWP-6

Cheers
 
On May 28, 8:19 pm, [email protected] wrote:

> XT cranks are two piece, the spindle being permanently attached to the
> right crank, the left one, the removable one, fits on a fine spline
> and is secured by two pinch bolts. Loosening the pinch-bolts allows
> manually pulling the crank off the spindle. Assembly should be with
> grease between spindle and crank to prevent corrosion and facilitate
> removal. This is not a friction joint and gets its strength from face
> contact pressure between crank and spindle spline ribs.
>
> When you say you removed "the hex nut", I suspect you don't have these
> cranks:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2wjbq8
>
> Scroll to the bottom of this page.
>
> Jobst Brandt


Hi there. I don't have those cranks. This bike is from 1992.

Cheers
 
On May 29, 5:19 am, BeeRich <[email protected]> wrote:

> Hi Jeff. Thanks for the reply. This is the one:
>
> http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=103
>
> So this is what I need:
>
> http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=26&item=CWP-6
>
> Cheers


Ah so. Those are some of the best cranks Shimano ever made: one-piece
forged arms (no seperate spider) and 110/74mm bolt pattern, square
spindle. That's probably mumbo-jumbo to you, but, speaking as someone
who's been around bikes for (eek!) 35 years, if you ever want to sell
them, I want first dibs.

Jeff
 
On May 30, 2:09 am, JeffWills <[email protected]> wrote:
> On May 29, 5:19 am, BeeRich <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Hi Jeff. Thanks for the reply. This is the one:

>
> >http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=103

>
> > So this is what I need:

>
> >http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=26&item=CWP-6

>
> > Cheers

>
> Ah so. Those are some of the best cranks Shimano ever made: one-piece
> forged arms (no seperate spider) and 110/74mm bolt pattern, square
> spindle. That's probably mumbo-jumbo to you, but, speaking as someone
> who's been around bikes for (eek!) 35 years, if you ever want to sell
> them, I want first dibs.
>
> Jeff


They are also 180's, so I knee my chin when I bike.