Lights for Road Riding at Night



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Ken Huizenga

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I am looking into purchase of a good light system for riding exclusively on long country roads (100%
paved, and mostly straight) and about 1 mile of city streets to get out to the country. I want to
maximize the length that I can see debris, potholes, etc. in order to react in time. I am riding a
Gold Rush and am capable of speeds in excess of 20mph and over 30mph downhill or with the wind. (I
would slow down, if necessary, at night time for safety. However, part of the reason for getting a
really good lighting system would be to avoid having to slow down much.)

I would like to get at least 2 hours of riding time before recharging. I would also like to avoid
helmet mounted lights. Price is not a major obstacle, I am looking at a system right now which would
cost $340, and that's OK, if "that's what it takes." I willing to use both of my water bottle
holders if necessary for battery storage. Based on the above..., in consultation with one of the
major light system producers (Turbocat) I am seriously considering the following system:

Two light fixtures, independently aimable, with one 15 watt bulb in each light with two separate 6V
water bottle batteries (Ni Cad). One 15 watt bulb would be a flood light, focused fairly low/near
in. This would hopefully provide decent lighting up to about 60 feet out, while simultaneously
providing some light for cornering, lighting up signs in front of me, etc. The other light would be
a 15 watt medium spot, focused further out, beyond where the flood light is illuminating. This would
give me advance warning of anything in the road about 60-80 feet out or perhaps a bit more.

I'm looking for 2nd opinions on the above setup. Any suggestions in terms of different approaches
which you think could work better are appreciated. Of course, any system such as this is a tradeoff
between weight of batteries, riding time between battery recharge and expense. I am generally OK
with the "promised parameters" of the above system:

Desired Performance
==============
80+ feet of straight ahead illumination on the road
2.2 hours with both lights running full time

Cost / Weight
=========
$340 total weight just under 5 pounds.

What I'm asking is whether, in your experience, the above described system will deliver something
close to the above "Desired Performance". Also, if you have any suggestions for how to modify this
system to improve "desired performance attributes" without raising cost/weight or keep the same
Desired Perforance while reducing cost or weight...I'm all ears...er...eyes.

Also...if there are any obvious concerns with the above system...such as the potential for
excessive glare for oncoming traffic, etc., etc. please point out such things as well. Currently, I
would intend to ride with both lights on...all the time (at night). If I need to turn off either
the flood or the spot for oncoming traffic I should buy handlebar switches which are not part of
the current plan.

Thanks, Ken Huizenga Appleton, Wisconsin Folding Gold Rush
 
Read this: http://www.crw.org/CheapLights.htm to build a 20-watt system. I built one of these
lights for about $60 total, including battery and charger, and it's so bright that cars flash
their high-beams at me. It illuminates reflecting road signs 1/2 mile away. And you would save
around $280.

Ken Huizenga wrote:

> I am looking into purchase of a good light system for riding exclusively on long country roads
> (100% paved, and mostly straight) and about 1 mile of city streets to get out to the country. I
> want to maximize the length that I can see debris, potholes, etc. in order to react in time. I am
> riding a Gold Rush and am capable of speeds in excess of 20mph and over 30mph downhill or with the
> wind. (I would slow down, if necessary, at night time for safety. However, part of the reason for
> getting a really good lighting system would be to avoid having to slow down much.)
>
> I would like to get at least 2 hours of riding time before recharging. I would also like to avoid
> helmet mounted lights. Price is not a major obstacle, I am looking at a system right now which
> would cost $340, and that's OK, if "that's what it takes." I willing to use both of my water
> bottle holders if necessary for battery storage. Based on the above..., in consultation with one
> of the major light system producers (Turbocat) I am seriously considering the following system:
>
> Two light fixtures, independently aimable, with one 15 watt bulb in each light with two separate
> 6V water bottle batteries (Ni Cad). One 15 watt bulb would be a flood light, focused fairly
> low/near in. This would hopefully provide decent lighting up to about 60 feet out, while
> simultaneously providing some light for cornering, lighting up signs in front of me, etc. The
> other light would be a 15 watt medium spot, focused further out, beyond where the flood light is
> illuminating. This would give me advance warning of anything in the road about 60-80 feet out or
> perhaps a bit more.
>
> I'm looking for 2nd opinions on the above setup. Any suggestions in terms of different approaches
> which you think could work better are appreciated. Of course, any system such as this is a
> tradeoff between weight of batteries, riding time between battery recharge and expense. I am
> generally OK with the "promised parameters" of the above system:
>
> Desired Performance
> ==============
> 80+ feet of straight ahead illumination on the road
> 2.2 hours with both lights running full time
>
> Cost / Weight
> =========
> $340 total weight just under 5 pounds.
>
> What I'm asking is whether, in your experience, the above described system will deliver something
> close to the above "Desired Performance". Also, if you have any suggestions for how to modify this
> system to improve "desired performance attributes" without raising cost/weight or keep the same
> Desired Perforance while reducing cost or weight...I'm all ears...er...eyes.
>
> Also...if there are any obvious concerns with the above system...such as the potential for
> excessive glare for oncoming traffic, etc., etc. please point out such things as well. Currently,
> I would intend to ride with both lights on...all the time (at night). If I need to turn off either
> the flood or the spot for oncoming traffic I should buy handlebar switches which are not part of
> the current plan.
>
> Thanks, Ken Huizenga Appleton, Wisconsin Folding Gold Rush
 
They are steering you wrong. If price is not an object and you want to ride fast on dark roads then
get an HID light. Also get NIMH batteries and not NI-CAD. I've been on total dark road rides with
people that have HID lights and they are like car lights, it's amazing. As far as batteries, NIMH
don't have memory problems and can be re-charged at any point in the discharge cycle, are lighter,
and last longer on a charge.

"Ken Huizenga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am looking into purchase of a good light system for riding exclusively
on
> long country roads (100% paved, and mostly straight) and about 1 mile of city streets to get out
> to the country. I want to maximize the length
that
> I can see debris, potholes, etc. in order to react in time. I am riding a Gold Rush and am capable
> of speeds in excess of 20mph and over 30mph downhill or with the wind. (I would slow down, if
> necessary, at night
time
> for safety. However, part of the reason for getting a really good
lighting
> system would be to avoid having to slow down much.)
>
> I would like to get at least 2 hours of riding time before recharging.
I
> would also like to avoid helmet mounted lights. Price is not a major obstacle, I am looking at a
> system right now which would cost $340, and that's OK, if "that's what it takes." I willing to use
> both of my water bottle holders if necessary for battery storage. Based on the above...,
in
> consultation with one of the major light system producers (Turbocat) I am seriously considering
> the following system:
>
> Two light fixtures, independently aimable, with one 15 watt bulb in each light with two separate
> 6V water bottle batteries (Ni Cad). One 15 watt
bulb
> would be a flood light, focused fairly low/near in. This would hopefully provide decent lighting
> up to about 60 feet out, while simultaneously providing some light for cornering, lighting up
> signs in front of me,
etc.
> The other light would be a 15 watt medium spot, focused further out,
beyond
> where the flood light is illuminating. This would give me advance
warning
> of anything in the road about 60-80 feet out or perhaps a bit more.
>
> I'm looking for 2nd opinions on the above setup. Any suggestions in
terms
> of different approaches which you think could work better are
appreciated.
> Of course, any system such as this is a tradeoff between weight of batteries, riding time between
> battery recharge and expense. I am
generally
> OK with the "promised parameters" of the above system:
>
> Desired Performance
> ==============
> 80+ feet of straight ahead illumination on the road
> 2.2 hours with both lights running full time
>
> Cost / Weight
> =========
> $340 total weight just under 5 pounds.
>
> What I'm asking is whether, in your experience, the above described
system
> will deliver something close to the above "Desired Performance". Also,
if
> you have any suggestions for how to modify this system to improve
"desired
> performance attributes" without raising cost/weight or keep the same
Desired
> Perforance while reducing cost or weight...I'm all ears...er...eyes.
>
> Also...if there are any obvious concerns with the above system...such as
the
> potential for excessive glare for oncoming traffic, etc., etc. please
point
> out such things as well. Currently, I would intend to ride with both
lights
> on...all the time (at night). If I need to turn off either the flood or
the
> spot for oncoming traffic I should buy handlebar switches which are not
part
> of the current plan.
>
> Thanks, Ken Huizenga Appleton, Wisconsin Folding Gold Rush
>
 
>They are steering you wrong. If price is not an object and you want to ride fast on dark roads then
>get an HID light.

My 15 watt halogen light is ok for visibility. Cars can see me just fine. In facts even much lower
wattage lights do well for visibility as long as there isn't a lot of dazzle along the road - neon
lights and stuff.

But at 15 watts, I start "outrunning" the light at around 17 mph. If I were riding country roads at
night and wanted a light for illumination so I could see things like road kills and junk that fell
off of trucks, I would go with the HID systems. They produce far more light then a halogen light
can. A friend of mine tells me his HID light is good up to a 25 mph cruising speed which I think
will get your through about any circumstance except descents.
 
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 05:49:33 GMT, "GWB" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>They are steering you wrong. If price is not an object and you want to ride fast on dark roads then
>get an HID light. Also get NIMH batteries and not NI-CAD. I've been on total dark road rides with
>people that have HID lights and they are like car lights, it's amazing. As far as batteries, NIMH
>don't have memory problems and can be re-charged at any point in the discharge cycle, are lighter,
>and last longer on a charge.
>
modern nicads with normal use dont experience a memory effect. its a myth.

>
>"Ken Huizenga" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]
>kc.rr.com...
>> I am looking into purchase of a good light system for riding exclusively
>on
>> long country roads (100% paved, and mostly straight) and about 1 mile of city streets to get out
>> to the country. I want to maximize the length
>that
>> I can see debris, potholes, etc. in order to react in time. I am riding a Gold Rush and am
>> capable of speeds in excess of 20mph and over 30mph downhill or with the wind. (I would slow
>> down, if necessary, at night
>time
>> for safety. However, part of the reason for getting a really good
>lighting
>> system would be to avoid having to slow down much.)
>>
>> I would like to get at least 2 hours of riding time before recharging.
>I
>> would also like to avoid helmet mounted lights. Price is not a major obstacle, I am looking at a
>> system right now which would cost $340, and that's OK, if "that's what it takes." I willing to
>> use both of my water bottle holders if necessary for battery storage. Based on the above...,
>in
>> consultation with one of the major light system producers (Turbocat) I am seriously considering
>> the following system:
>>
>> Two light fixtures, independently aimable, with one 15 watt bulb in each light with two separate
>> 6V water bottle batteries (Ni Cad). One 15 watt
>bulb
>> would be a flood light, focused fairly low/near in. This would hopefully provide decent lighting
>> up to about 60 feet out, while simultaneously providing some light for cornering, lighting up
>> signs in front of me,
>etc.
>> The other light would be a 15 watt medium spot, focused further out,
>beyond
>> where the flood light is illuminating. This would give me advance
>warning
>> of anything in the road about 60-80 feet out or perhaps a bit more.
>>
>> I'm looking for 2nd opinions on the above setup. Any suggestions in
>terms
>> of different approaches which you think could work better are
>appreciated.
>> Of course, any system such as this is a tradeoff between weight of batteries, riding time between
>> battery recharge and expense. I am
>generally
>> OK with the "promised parameters" of the above system:
>>
>> Desired Performance
>> ==============
>> 80+ feet of straight ahead illumination on the road
>> 2.2 hours with both lights running full time
>>
>> Cost / Weight
>> =========
>> $340 total weight just under 5 pounds.
>>
>> What I'm asking is whether, in your experience, the above described
>system
>> will deliver something close to the above "Desired Performance". Also,
>if
>> you have any suggestions for how to modify this system to improve
>"desired
>> performance attributes" without raising cost/weight or keep the same
>Desired
>> Perforance while reducing cost or weight...I'm all ears...er...eyes.
>>
>> Also...if there are any obvious concerns with the above system...such as
>the
>> potential for excessive glare for oncoming traffic, etc., etc. please
>point
>> out such things as well. Currently, I would intend to ride with both
>lights
>> on...all the time (at night). If I need to turn off either the flood or
>the
>> spot for oncoming traffic I should buy handlebar switches which are not
>part
>> of the current plan.
>>
>> Thanks, Ken Huizenga Appleton, Wisconsin Folding Gold Rush
>>
>>
>>
>
 
In article <[email protected]>, Gary Smiley
<[email protected]> wrote:

> Read this: http://www.crw.org/CheapLights.htm to build a 20-watt system. I built one of these
> lights for about $60 total, including battery and charger, and it's so bright that cars flash
> their high-beams at me. It illuminates reflecting road signs 1/2 mile away. And you would save
> around $280.
>

Most of the cost of expensive lights are on the battery. The lighter the battery, the more it will
cost. Lead acid battery is the cheapest of the lot. It is also the heaviest and not very
environmentally friendly.
 
On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 04:11:11 GMT, "Ken Huizenga"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I am looking into purchase of a good light system for riding exclusively on long country roads
>(100% paved, and mostly straight) and about 1 mile of city streets to get out to the country. I
>want to maximize the length that I can see debris, potholes, etc. in order to react in time. I am
>riding a Gold Rush and am capable of speeds in excess of 20mph and over 30mph downhill or with
>the wind.

I use a SON coupled to a 12V system with a SON E6 lamp (the Bisy optics on a slightly better
housing) and a Busch & Muller Lumotec. Battery life? What battery life? I am the battery!

I also do use a headtorch, because every now and then it's useful to be able to point the light
round corners. If your roads are straight this ain't a problem, obviously.

Not what you asked, of course, but I do recommend you lok at dynamo (generator) systems because they
are so good these days. Hubs are best but you can even get a 12V bottle dynamo now. Standlights are
also common.

Guy
===
May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
http://chapmancentral.demon.co.uk
 
"Just zis Guy, you know?" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I also do use a headtorch, because every now and then it's useful to be able to point the light
> round corners. If your roads are straight this ain't a problem, obviously.

What do you use as your headtorch? I've been thinking it would be nice to have one to shine at cars
trying to turn into me where there's a lot of competing lighting. It would be nice to be able to
read street signs without lifting my bike and aiming the headlight at the sign. I'd like to be able
to see more off road, check out a sidepath, a creekbed.

I guess those big $ & watt systems with the battery on your body would work but could long-lasting
LEDs be bright enough?

Doug For email, a sense of wonder.
 
On Sun, 14 Dec 2003 04:21:53 GMT, "Doug Purdy" <[email protected]> wrote:

>What do you use as your headtorch? I've been thinking it would be nice to have one to shine at cars
>trying to turn into me where there's a lot of competing lighting.

Either a Petzl Zoom Zora Belt with a homebrewed connector in the battery cable and the elastic
straps removed (it's attached to my helmet using velcro computer cable tidies), or the VistaLight
Nightstick 5W head torch unit.

>I guess those big $ & watt systems with the battery on your body would work but could long-lasting
>LEDs be bright enough?

I don't rightly know. The Petzl runs on four C cells and one set usually lasts me a year, and the
Vistas are rechargeable.

Guy
===
May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
http://chapmancentral.demon.co.uk
 
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