Winter training with Kanetic

The bike shouldn't have any problems, but I'd suggest you write to the manufacturer to make sure those low temps won't harm the fluid unit. It won't be a problem during the rides, but if you're planning to store the unit out there between rides then it would be a good idea to ask.

It's a good trainer and their customer service is very good. I'm sure they'll respond to an e-mail pretty quickly.

You do not need to, but you may want to. Trainers usually wear down tires faster than the road. The trainer-specific tires are like hard plastic and last a very long time.

Just don't use the trainer tire on the road!

Do the 'trainer tyres' make the terrible squeal road tyres seem to on each pedal stroke?

Having used a Cyclops trainer I never had the squeal I constantly get using Kinetic trainer- it sound like tyre slip every stroke even through I have adjusted the tension correctly - 2 & half turns after contact with tyre.

It is rather annoying - my only gripe about the kinetic trainer

gsnake said:

hi!



I am planning to spend winter months training using Kanetic Road Machine (this is what I just got based on the reviews - hopefully this is a good trainer).
I live in Canada and we have pretty cold winters.
Two questions - can I keep the bike in the garage during the winter time? Or I'd better move it inside the house?
Would it be possible to use Kanetic trainer in the garage with bike at winter time? Or it does not make sense...
(I have Cannondale R200SI, aluminum frame).

thanks in advance!
gsnake


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If you can afford it, you might want to consider the following recently posted in the "It's killing me" thread.

OK, dont faint. Today I sent off the money for my trainer.

I thought I'd decided 100% on a KK trainer, that was until I read the following from Daveanwyoming:

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Quote:
This is the only one (CompuTrainer) I can comment on directly. It's a lot more than just a toy. It's big plus is running in ergometer mode where you dial in a fixed wattage and let the handlebar computer modulate the resistance to hold you in a narrow power range. I find it makes it a lot easier to complete longer workouts if you don't have to constantly monitor your output and cadence. You can also program more complex workouts with your computer like 5x5s or microintervals, but just the ergometer mode alone is worth the price of this unit. Frankly I never use the computer generated graphics or virtual racing modes just the ergometer and preprogrammed workouts. I wish the CT had a much bigger flywheel but even with it's low inertia it's still better than running a standard trainer and having to watch the power like a hawk.

After reading the above, I knew that was what I really want. I don't want to f--t about trying to keep the power level steady etc. I want something as near to my gym trainer as poss. So the Computrainer it is and to hell with the cost! Better to have something that will not end up in the corner looking unwanted and forlorn.
Should be here very soon - watch this space for a whole lot of new improved figures - or not.
Tyson

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ChelseaHH said:

Do the 'trainer tyres' make the terrible squeal road tyres seem to on each pedal stroke?

Having used a Cyclops trainer I never had the squeal I constantly get using Kinetic trainer- it sound like tyre slip every stroke even through I have adjusted the tension correctly - 2 & half turns after contact with tyre.

It is rather annoying - my only gripe about the kinetic trainer

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When I originally set my KK, I also used the 2.5 turns as instructed. When I started churning out power numbers that would put my in the TdF! I called Kurt. He recommended 4.5 turns on the Road Machine; that when you hand-turn the tire and then reverse directions there should be no slippage (of course that is very subjective depending on how fast you turn the tire). You could also check your coastdown time from 20mph -- other posts have indicated that should be about 13.4 seconds (can't remember the link). I bet you're getting slippage and thus the squeal.

ChelseaHH said:

Do the 'trainer tyres' make the terrible squeal road tyres seem to on each pedal stroke?

Having used a Cyclops trainer I never had the squeal I constantly get using Kinetic trainer- it sound like tyre slip every stroke even through I have adjusted the tension correctly - 2 & half turns after contact with tyre.

It is rather annoying - my only gripe about the kinetic trainer

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Two pieces of advice: 1) pump up your rear tire well, to at least 120, 2) then tighten the tension unit until there is no tire slippage when you take the rear wheel in your hand and manually move it back and forth (quickly) -- for me this is about 3.5 turns I think. You will then have a very quiet trainer with no annoying slip. Ignore the manual's advice saying not to tighten more than 2.5 turns (or 3 or whatever it says).

lanierb said:

Two pieces of advice: 1) pump up your rear tire well, to at least 120, 2) then tighten the tension unit until there is no tire slippage when you take the rear wheel in your hand and manually move it back and forth (quickly) -- for me this is about 3.5 turns I think. You will then have a very quiet trainer with no annoying slip.

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Agree. A 3rd piece of advice is to clean the tire and resistance roller with degreaser and then let everything dry thoroughly. That will improve the grip dramatically and reduce the need for extreme knob tightening.

frenchyge said:

Agree. A 3rd piece of advice is to clean the tire and resistance roller with degreaser and then let everything dry thoroughly. That will improve the grip dramatically and reduce the need for extreme knob tightening.

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+1 on the cleaning. It'll take the squek right out. Clean it again when the squeak comes back!

Thanks for the feedback and KK tension setting - strange the verbal instruction was 4.5 turns when documentation says 2.5 turns.

I will give some extra turns for next session to alleviate that tyre squeaking

Typre pressure is always 100 or above so think i'm OK there.

The tyre squeak hasn't been so noticable of late as with Aus summer really getting going I need 2 x pedastal fans going full blast to stop melting ( I train in iron shed/garage) Feels like I'm in a wind tunnel!

iliveonnitro said:

You do not need to, but you may want to. Trainers usually wear down tires faster than the road. The trainer-specific tires are like hard plastic and last a very long time.

Just don't use the trainer tire on the road!

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I am new to the forum. I have a trainer that is new. It is a Kinetic. I want to know if it will be okay to get a new wheel for my outdoor riding and use my old wheel with a trainer tire for indoor? Is there any problem with doing that?

Also, I have a Specialized Ruby Expert. Any suggestions for wheel upgrades?

Thanks.

CindyMay said:

I am new to the forum. I have a trainer that is new. It is a Kinetic. I want to know if it will be okay to get a new wheel for my outdoor riding and use my old wheel with a trainer tire for indoor? Is there any problem with doing that?

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Absolutely not.

CindyMay said:

Also, I have a Specialized Ruby Expert. Any suggestions for wheel upgrades?

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What can you afford?

Does everyone use the recommended wheel circumference '2060' or have you measured it accurately. Mine back wheel circumference works out at 2113

CindyMay said:

... will be okay to get a new wheel for my outdoor riding and use my old wheel with a trainer tire for indoor? Is there any problem with doing that?...

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Sure, lots of folks do just that. It means two wheels, both with mounted cassettes and appropriate tires mounted. Nothing wrong with that approach if you live somewhere warm enough for a bit of outdoor riding but ride indoors as well. You can also just go with one tire that works well on a trainer, keep it fairly clean by wiping off road oils with rubbing alcohol before using it on the trainer and just know it will wear a bit faster. A slick road tire works best on trainers. Personally I use older tires that I don't feel comfortable racing anymore but still have a lot of life in them. I keep them clean and use them as trainer tires. When I run out of those I'll probably check out a specialty home trainer tire.

..Also, I have a Specialized Ruby Expert. Any suggestions for wheel upgrades?...

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What sort of riding do you do? Long tours, club rides, races, triathlons, centuries? The Shimano R6600 wheels that come stock on the Ruby Expert are decent wheels. You could get something lighter or more aerodynamic but it depends on what you'll want to do with the new wheels and how much you're willing to spend. You'll find a lot of threads discussing wheel choices in the Cycling Equipment forums: http://www.cyclingforums.com/f48-cycling-equipment.html but you'll also find a lot of conflicting opinions.

Good luck,
Dave

Ade Merckx said:

Does everyone use the recommended wheel circumference '2060' or have you measured it accurately. Mine back wheel circumference works out at 2113

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Measure it, don't use the generalized estimates. Did you measure it with a rollout test while sitting on the bike with the tire pumped up to the appropriate pressure? That's the best way to get a good circumference measurement. FWIW my road tires tend to be close to 2090mm when rolled out in a loaded test. These are 700x23c Michelin Pro 2's mounted on various rims and I weigh ~72kg right now.

-Dave

daveryanwyoming said:

Measure it, don't use the generalized estimates. Did you measure it with a rollout test while sitting on the bike with the tire pumped up to the appropriate pressure? That's the best way to get a good circumference measurement. FWIW my road tires tend to be close to 2090mm when rolled out in a loaded test. These are 700x23c Michelin Pro 2's mounted on various rims and I weigh ~72kg right now.

-Dave

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thanks for that Dave. I forgot to sit on the bike originally so I just re-measured the circumference - its now 2108. I managed 272watts for 80mins this morning. However I forgot to stand up so my butt is very sore now

Ade Merckx said:

Does everyone use the recommended wheel circumference '2060' or have you measured it accurately. Mine back wheel circumference works out at 2113

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That depends how accurate you need your speed to be. The tires I use now have about 5K miles on them . I'm pretty sure the circumference is not what it used to be. I just use 2096 mm estimate (average for new 23mm tires) all year round and call it good. If you use the KK computer to estimate your power, then yes, you want your wheel circumference to be more accurate, otherwise it shouldn't play any major role in your training.