Buying advice for commute and race bike

dash202 · Feb 6, 2008

I'm looking to get a bike that I can commute to work (about 12 miles 1-way) a couple times a week and use it in 3 to 5 sprint triathlon races during the summer. I'm trying to keep it under $800. I've looked at a 2007 Masi Alare, 2007 Trek 1500, Fuji Newest 3.0 and will be checking out Giant OCR 2/3. My local bike shop has last years 2007 Fuji Roubaix (sounds like a great deal at $875). Since there is snow on the ground I have not had a chance to ride any of these. Any comments suggestions would be welcomed.

buckybux · Feb 6, 2008

One bike to ride both? I bike commute and I am an intense recreational rider, and I use two different bikes. First, my road bike is not good for commuting, the riding position is not comforable for carrying a backpack.

The commuting bike has a rack on the back (still use a backpack because I haul a tablet PC) and the ride position is more upright so I can be a lot more aware of the traffic. Tires are wider and can handle the loads better too. I would recommend you buy a new road (in your case Tri) bike and then find a good used commuter.

MNRon · Feb 6, 2008

dash202 said:
I'm looking to get a bike that I can commute to work (about 12 miles 1-way) a couple times a week and use it in 3 to 5 sprint triathlon races during the summer. I'm trying to keep it under $800. I've looked at a 2007 Masi Alare, 2007 Trek 1500, Fuji Newest 3.0 and will be checking out Giant OCR 2/3. My local bike shop has last years 2007 Fuji Roubaix (sounds like a great deal at $875). Since there is snow on the ground I have not had a chance to ride any of these. Any comments suggestions would be welcomed.

I'd get a good bike to do my triathlons on and put a few bucks into an old 7-8 speed mountain bike to cummute with -- put slick tires on it, a rack, whatever. You can find a good commuter bike, or at least the bones of one, at a garage sale, often for free.

I mean, what you are asking for is a cross between a pick up truck and a sports car, which would serve neither of your purposes well.

dash202 · Feb 6, 2008

Ok, I can see where the advice is going. Thanks for the input. What about the bikes I listed for racing. I have not seen a tri bike for under $1,200 so those are not in my budget.

oldbobcat · Feb 9, 2008

dash202 said:
Ok, I can see where the advice is going. Thanks for the input. What about the bikes I listed for racing. I have not seen a tri bike for under $1,200 so those are not in my budget.

Wow, are we so finicky that we need separate bikes for commuting and racing! Buy the best race bike you can afford and commute with heavy-duty wheels if you're worried about beating up your good ones.

If you have financial restrictions, be sure to check out used equipment. A new bike and used commuter wheels might be a good way to go.

And for competition I'd recommend against "relaxed geometry" bikes like the Giant OCR, unless you have flexibility issues. The OCR is a fine bike but it's not made for getting low and aerodynamic. I don't know enough about the other bikes to make a recommendation, but if Felts are available, check them out for excellent bang for the buck.

MNRon · Feb 10, 2008

oldbobcat said:
Wow, are we so finicky that we need separate bikes for commuting and racing! Buy the best race bike you can afford and commute with heavy-duty wheels if you're worried about beating up your good ones.

With all due respect, I don't see where "finicky" enters into the equation. Practicality, perhaps, but not finicky. You suggest that the guy get an aero racing bike, the best he can afford, for a few sprint triathlons a years, and then buy extra wheels for it -- the cost of which would get him a ridable commuter bike. That, to me, is like spending all your money on Corvette, then adding a roof rack so you can haul sheetrock.

Think about the situations a commuter in Minnesota may have to deal with; hauling stuff, salty roads, racks, security, pedals, lighting, and the like. That does not sound like where I'd want to be riding the best aero racing bike I can afford!

ride4him · Feb 10, 2008

dash202 said:
I'm looking to get a bike that I can commute to work (about 12 miles 1-way) a couple times a week and use it in 3 to 5 sprint triathlon races during the summer. I'm trying to keep it under $800. I've looked at a 2007 Masi Alare, 2007 Trek 1500, Fuji Newest 3.0 and will be checking out Giant OCR 2/3. My local bike shop has last years 2007 Fuji Roubaix (sounds like a great deal at $875). Since there is snow on the ground I have not had a chance to ride any of these. Any comments suggestions would be welcomed.

Jump on that deal for the 07 Roubaix that is a $1200 bike. but if your doing racks and stuff the OCR may be better. But that is a GREAT deal for the Fuji!

ride4him · Feb 10, 2008

dash202 said:
I'm looking to get a bike that I can commute to work (about 12 miles 1-way) a couple times a week and use it in 3 to 5 sprint triathlon races during the summer. I'm trying to keep it under $800. I've looked at a 2007 Masi Alare, 2007 Trek 1500, Fuji Newest 3.0 and will be checking out Giant OCR 2/3. My local bike shop has last years 2007 Fuji Roubaix (sounds like a great deal at $875). Since there is snow on the ground I have not had a chance to ride any of these. Any comments suggestions would be welcomed.

Oh yeah the tires that come on the Fuji are not very good against punchures so if you do get that bike replace the tires with a good all weather tire or you will be late for work.

oldbobcat · Feb 10, 2008

MNRon said:
With all due respect, I don't see where "finicky" enters into the equation. Practicality, perhaps, but not finicky.

Maybe we have a different idea of what a commuter bike is. If a commuter is cheaper than a sub 1800 gram set of wheels, then, sure, the the commuter makes more sense. Where I live most people are commuting on $600 bikes or the Colnago they raced 20 years ago.

And I did not advise buying an "aero" bike, I advised for a bike that one could get aero on. I just don't believe extended-steerer "comfort racers" like the Giant OCR, Trek Pilot, and Specialized Roubaix meet that criterion. My advice is that if one is interested in competition and can get comfortable on a competition geometry without the adaptation, then one should get his torso out of the air flow and ride a competition frame. And one doesn't have to spend $5000 to get a competition geometry. From the original poster's list, I like Trek 1500, especially since it should be heavily discounted. If he's looking at Giant, then I'd recommend a TCR Alliance over an OCR. Don't know much about Fujis but from the geometry charts I see that several models are relatively shorter in the top tube, which is nice if you have long legs. And then I'm really fond of my Felt F5C.

For several years in New England and Colorado, I commuted on the bike that I raced and never felt compelled to raise the handlebar 3cm. My only adaptation was to throw on a set of reliable clinchers with a larger freewheel cluster.

ride4him · Feb 10, 2008

oldbobcat said:
Maybe we have a different idea of what a commuter bike is. If a commuter is cheaper than a sub 1800 gram set of wheels, then, sure, the the commuter makes more sense. Where I live most people are commuting on $600 bikes or the Colnago they raced 20 years ago.

And I did not advise buying an "aero" bike, I advised for a bike that one could get aero on. I just don't believe extended-steerer "comfort racers" like the Giant OCR, Trek Pilot, and Specialized Roubaix meet that criterion. My advice is that if one is interested in competition and can get comfortable on a competition geometry without the adaptation, then one should get his torso out of the air flow and ride a competition frame. And one doesn't have to spend $5000 to get a competition geometry. From the original poster's list, I like Trek 1500, especially since it should be heavily discounted. If he's looking at Giant, then I'd recommend a TCR Alliance over an OCR. Don't know much about Fujis but from the geometry charts I see that several models are relatively shorter in the top tube, which is nice if you have long legs. And then I'm really fond of my Felt F5C.

For several years in New England and Colorado, I commuted on the bike that I raced and never felt compelled to raise the handlebar 3cm. My only adaptation was to throw on a set of reliable clinchers with a larger freewheel cluster.

I agree with oldbobcat, if you even think you may want to race you should get a bike with a little more aggressive geometry than something like the OCR. I had an OCR3 for 2 years then I sold it and bought a TCR1. At the time I worked 5 miles from away from my house and rode my "racing" TCR1 to work when I could. It did not have mounts for racks but I could get by with a backpack. Plus when the weekend came I could go on fast group rides. But I understand that you have a budget to work with.

p.s. I still think you should get the Fuji

oldbobcat · Feb 10, 2008

ride4him said:
It did not have mounts for racks but I could get by with a backpack. Plus when the weekend came I could go on fast group rides. But I understand that you have a budget to work with.

p.s. I still think you should get the Fuji

I prefer a musette with a waist belt for carrying junk--allows a lower center of gravity and the belt keeps it on my hip.

dash202 · Feb 11, 2008

ride4him said:
Jump on that deal for the 07 Roubaix that is a $1200 bike. but if your doing racks and stuff the OCR may be better. But that is a GREAT deal for the Fuji!

It looked like a nice bike and I will have to go back. Maybe put some money down so it doesn't dissapear on me and then ride it when all the damn snow melts (July). I think your thoughts on using this kind of bike is what I am thinking. Buy a good race bike that is comfortable and use if for commuting. I can either use a pack or maybe leave a change of clothes at work. The thought of using an older bike for commuting makes some sense except why not use something that is faster/more efficient for commuting like a race bike.

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