Could use an 'experts' opinion between 2 bikes



jhilge01

New Member
Apr 2, 2012
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I want to upgrade my road bike, currently have a 1999 Cannondale R800 (Shimano 105s) ... I love the bike, but feel like it's time to catch up with the technical advances and get into this century of bikes. I have found a couple bikes in local shops that I really like, but not sure which direction to go.

I'd estimate I ride about 1500 miles a year ... mostly 30-50 mile rides. I'm looking for something that will give me comfort and performance, especially on inclines (LOVE riding the Rockies - try the Copper Triangle if you haven't done it).

The two I have my eye on are:
  • 2010 Specialized Roubaix Pro Dura-Ace
  • 2009 Felt F1 SL

Any recommendations?
 
Well, you're in luck! Since you're on the interwebs, there is no shortage of experts whatsoever! I'm sure one will be along shortly...
 
There's a pretty big difference between those frames. For a 56cm frame (just an example):
  • Virtual Top Tube Length: F1, 560mm; Roubaix, 565mm
  • Head Tube Length: F1, 140mm; Roubaix, 190mm
  • Wheelbase: F1, 988mm; Roubaix, 1010mm
The fit on these two bikes is going to be significantly different, and they're designed for entirely different reasons. Whereas the F1 has fairly typical sprint/crit geometry (to yield quick handling), the Roubaix's geometry came to life based on Specialized's riders' experiences at places like Roubaix and is therefore a bit more stable handling with more bump absorption and more intended comfort. You really need to ride them both or at least decide what kind of bike you want. Note that the Roubaix is not designed as a tiddler's bike. After all, Fabian Cancellara did win the Tour of Flanders and Paris-Roubaix on one, as well as quite a few other races.
 
The Roubaixs that the pros use for the cobbled classics are special builds with low head tubes, comparable to the Tarmac SLs they ride, which are still 1-2 cm lower than the Tarmacs available to most of us.

Felt's F series geometry is quick but stable, not particularly twitchy or rough as race/sport geometries go. But the low head tube is not everybody's cup of tea.

I'm just stressing alienator's point that in terms of posture, you couldn't find two bikes more diametrically opposed.
 
FWIW. If 'I' were looking for a "new" frame, then I would consider a GUNNAR and, initially, simply move the existing components over to it ...

  • "old" style Alpha Q forks were being sold for a "song" about a year ago ... I presume that there are some which are still available.

Eventually, you can replace-or-update the components as you truly may deem necessary ...

  • Of course ([COLOR= #808080]as many others know[/COLOR]), I recommend you simply update your shifters with a set of 10-speed Campagnolo shifters ... BECAUSE, as great as you may feel that your Shimano shifters are, you should be pleased by how much better the Campagnolo shifters work with your otherwise Shimano drivetrain ...
 

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