Making your own bicycle decals and graphics
by Andre jute
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/B...20CYCLING.html
You can easily make your own bicycle decals by laser-printing black-
and-white, block-colour or full-colour computer-copied or -created art
in reverse onto thin transparent plastic, and using spray glue to fix
it to your bike.
For vintage or other restoration decals you can take them off the bike
(take photos first!) and stick the bits flat on paper, scan the paper
into a computer and retouch in a paint programme. Or scan them out of
a book, or import them from the net and use the scan as a template to
recreate the original.
New art can be made on your computer in any vector programme like
Adobe Illustrator or page layout programme like QuarkXPress (there are
cheaper programmes of each type). "Art" is simply type or illustration
or a mix of the two.
You want to glue the plastic down print side next to your bike, so the
art must be reversed, otherwise it won't read right. After you've made
the art, flip it over in the computer programme, so it reads
backwards. Save the art as a PDF and copy it onto a CD or e-mail it as
an attachment to your laser-printing location.
You can get colour laser printing done at your library and on your
high street.
The choice of film to print on is tricky. Most overhead projection
film (what the laser printing service will reach for automatically) is
too thick and stiff. I like cheap refill page pockets for books of
plastic leaves; they're made of suitably thin and flexible plastic.
Insert a sheet of typing paper to stiffen the pocket and insert it in
the laser printer tray so that the closed end feeds first or you will
get it stuck in the printer and become very unpopular.
Cut out your decals with the aid of a ruler or if round with a small
tin for a guide. Forget freehand cutting, even if you have printed
cutting guides on your artwork. For a clean cut, use a new disposable
surgical scalpel which you can buy at a graphic art supply store.
Spray with clear clue (also from the art supply store) and set
carefully on the bike. Overspray with clear lacquer.
Getting the decal on straight is easier if you first smooth it onto
paper, topside down. The guide paper should be precut to align with
some feature of the bike. Spray decal and paper alike with glue, set
on bike in alignment, carefully peel the paper off while leaving the
decal. Put a cloth over the decal to smooth it down. The cloth will
pick up excess glue. Don't try to wipe it all off -- the excess will
ramp up to the thin edge of the film and make the decal look
integrated with the bike, as if stamped and painted into the metal.
This method can also be used for much larger graphics, such as are
normally airbrushed onto the bike. You merely design the graphic in
sections shorter than whatever limits the printing you can get done
(laser paper capability, size of thin plastic pockets available to
you) and after printing assemble the sections on the bike.
Copyright © Andre Jute 2008. May be freely reprinted on not-for-profit
sites on the net as long as this notice remains with the article. All
other use requires permission.
by Andre jute
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/B...20CYCLING.html
You can easily make your own bicycle decals by laser-printing black-
and-white, block-colour or full-colour computer-copied or -created art
in reverse onto thin transparent plastic, and using spray glue to fix
it to your bike.
For vintage or other restoration decals you can take them off the bike
(take photos first!) and stick the bits flat on paper, scan the paper
into a computer and retouch in a paint programme. Or scan them out of
a book, or import them from the net and use the scan as a template to
recreate the original.
New art can be made on your computer in any vector programme like
Adobe Illustrator or page layout programme like QuarkXPress (there are
cheaper programmes of each type). "Art" is simply type or illustration
or a mix of the two.
You want to glue the plastic down print side next to your bike, so the
art must be reversed, otherwise it won't read right. After you've made
the art, flip it over in the computer programme, so it reads
backwards. Save the art as a PDF and copy it onto a CD or e-mail it as
an attachment to your laser-printing location.
You can get colour laser printing done at your library and on your
high street.
The choice of film to print on is tricky. Most overhead projection
film (what the laser printing service will reach for automatically) is
too thick and stiff. I like cheap refill page pockets for books of
plastic leaves; they're made of suitably thin and flexible plastic.
Insert a sheet of typing paper to stiffen the pocket and insert it in
the laser printer tray so that the closed end feeds first or you will
get it stuck in the printer and become very unpopular.
Cut out your decals with the aid of a ruler or if round with a small
tin for a guide. Forget freehand cutting, even if you have printed
cutting guides on your artwork. For a clean cut, use a new disposable
surgical scalpel which you can buy at a graphic art supply store.
Spray with clear clue (also from the art supply store) and set
carefully on the bike. Overspray with clear lacquer.
Getting the decal on straight is easier if you first smooth it onto
paper, topside down. The guide paper should be precut to align with
some feature of the bike. Spray decal and paper alike with glue, set
on bike in alignment, carefully peel the paper off while leaving the
decal. Put a cloth over the decal to smooth it down. The cloth will
pick up excess glue. Don't try to wipe it all off -- the excess will
ramp up to the thin edge of the film and make the decal look
integrated with the bike, as if stamped and painted into the metal.
This method can also be used for much larger graphics, such as are
normally airbrushed onto the bike. You merely design the graphic in
sections shorter than whatever limits the printing you can get done
(laser paper capability, size of thin plastic pockets available to
you) and after printing assemble the sections on the bike.
Copyright © Andre Jute 2008. May be freely reprinted on not-for-profit
sites on the net as long as this notice remains with the article. All
other use requires permission.
