During the last episode before several people thought changing the subject was more important than the subject, I explained that I had got a set of deep aero carbon clincher rims. These worked very well. And because of the increased aerodynamics of the rims they didn't react to even strong side gusts the way aluminum aero wheels do - aluminum being difficult to get a really clean aero shape on.
I had bought a set of Fulcrum aluminum wheels and they came preset-up for tubeless operation so I tried it. And I REALLY like tubeless tires. On the very first ride I hit some large stone or piece of glass in the road large enough for the tire to bump-bump-bump until I reached down and knocked it off.
I stopped to look at it and the sealant had sealed the hole and no pressure was lost. The road I was on was very narrow and there was a lot of traffic on it so I appreciated not having to change out tubes on a narrow road.
So after getting the carbon wheels and liking them they started advertising a tubeless version and I decided to get them. From China these things are CHEAP. It is very difficult to get wheels this cheap anywhere else.
I ordered a set and after they came in I mounted a set of Michelin Pro4 Endurance tires on them. I don't know where I originally got these but they were advertised as being able to be clinchers or tubeless. If you EVER see this do not believe it. Presently Michelin doesn't make any tubeless tires and they are significantly different than clinchers around the bead. If they do not specifically say "tubeless" they are not.
In any case, inflating them caused a one of them to go completely out of true - over an inch! And the other made a large 'BANG'ing sound and upon further investigation it had delaminated along the bead edge of the rim.
I bought a similar set from another Chinese supplier and they delaminated even more drastically at only 80 psi.
When you're buying these sorts of cheap parts they can always be really good like the clincher version or they can turn out to be dudes. I take my chances. In any case I got repayments for these wheels and those two suppliers disappeared off of Ebay.
Here it is perhaps 4 or 5 months later and they turned up again offering a slightly different but similar wheel for a better price. The other wheels delaminated obviously because the Pre-preg cloth they used was set down in layers and not allowed sufficient time to harden.
Yesterday, the newer wheels came in and I had already gotten the latest Continental GP5000TL (the only tubeless tires Continental makes so far). Actual tubeless tires mount EASIER to the tubeless wheels than the clincher tires do. Also after you make sure that the tire is correctly and straightly mounted you can pump them right up with a normal floor pump.
So these wheels have gone right together without a flaw. I intend to be very careful with them in case they still have any weaknesses in them but if they perform like the clincher wheels I will be more than happy.
By the way. I have built a whole lot of wheels in my time riding bikes. Just a couple of years ago after a long layoff, I broke an old fashion rim. I had another set of wheels with the same sort of rims but the hubs were shot. I pulled a rim off of one of those wheels and respoked it on the new wheel and trued and tightened it in less than an hour. So I do know what I'm doing.
But you CANNOT do this with carbon wheels. The spoke beds are uneven and so you cannot thread the spokes in all to the same depth and then tighten them from there. On aluminum wheels you have this screwdriver with a wiggle in it so that you can go around the rim and rapidly turn all of the nipples down to exactly the same depth and go from there. But on carbon rims you cannot do this because there can be 2 mm different in nipple depth. These wheels are normally built on an automatic machine that adjusts all of the spokes up to the proper tension using a torque machine that tightens all of the spokes up at once.
So while I suppose if you were REALLY good and patient that you could build a carbon rim into a wheel it would be days of labor and after trying it myself I would suggest buying a new wheel since they're cheaper than the time you'd put into trying to build one yourself.
I'll update you as I go along concerning these wheels.
I had bought a set of Fulcrum aluminum wheels and they came preset-up for tubeless operation so I tried it. And I REALLY like tubeless tires. On the very first ride I hit some large stone or piece of glass in the road large enough for the tire to bump-bump-bump until I reached down and knocked it off.
I stopped to look at it and the sealant had sealed the hole and no pressure was lost. The road I was on was very narrow and there was a lot of traffic on it so I appreciated not having to change out tubes on a narrow road.
So after getting the carbon wheels and liking them they started advertising a tubeless version and I decided to get them. From China these things are CHEAP. It is very difficult to get wheels this cheap anywhere else.
I ordered a set and after they came in I mounted a set of Michelin Pro4 Endurance tires on them. I don't know where I originally got these but they were advertised as being able to be clinchers or tubeless. If you EVER see this do not believe it. Presently Michelin doesn't make any tubeless tires and they are significantly different than clinchers around the bead. If they do not specifically say "tubeless" they are not.
In any case, inflating them caused a one of them to go completely out of true - over an inch! And the other made a large 'BANG'ing sound and upon further investigation it had delaminated along the bead edge of the rim.
I bought a similar set from another Chinese supplier and they delaminated even more drastically at only 80 psi.
When you're buying these sorts of cheap parts they can always be really good like the clincher version or they can turn out to be dudes. I take my chances. In any case I got repayments for these wheels and those two suppliers disappeared off of Ebay.
Here it is perhaps 4 or 5 months later and they turned up again offering a slightly different but similar wheel for a better price. The other wheels delaminated obviously because the Pre-preg cloth they used was set down in layers and not allowed sufficient time to harden.
Yesterday, the newer wheels came in and I had already gotten the latest Continental GP5000TL (the only tubeless tires Continental makes so far). Actual tubeless tires mount EASIER to the tubeless wheels than the clincher tires do. Also after you make sure that the tire is correctly and straightly mounted you can pump them right up with a normal floor pump.
So these wheels have gone right together without a flaw. I intend to be very careful with them in case they still have any weaknesses in them but if they perform like the clincher wheels I will be more than happy.
By the way. I have built a whole lot of wheels in my time riding bikes. Just a couple of years ago after a long layoff, I broke an old fashion rim. I had another set of wheels with the same sort of rims but the hubs were shot. I pulled a rim off of one of those wheels and respoked it on the new wheel and trued and tightened it in less than an hour. So I do know what I'm doing.
But you CANNOT do this with carbon wheels. The spoke beds are uneven and so you cannot thread the spokes in all to the same depth and then tighten them from there. On aluminum wheels you have this screwdriver with a wiggle in it so that you can go around the rim and rapidly turn all of the nipples down to exactly the same depth and go from there. But on carbon rims you cannot do this because there can be 2 mm different in nipple depth. These wheels are normally built on an automatic machine that adjusts all of the spokes up to the proper tension using a torque machine that tightens all of the spokes up at once.
So while I suppose if you were REALLY good and patient that you could build a carbon rim into a wheel it would be days of labor and after trying it myself I would suggest buying a new wheel since they're cheaper than the time you'd put into trying to build one yourself.
I'll update you as I go along concerning these wheels.
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