I'm not real impressed by the level of components. They are only about a half step above the bottom teir of components meaning that your hubby is going to be busy adjusting and readjusting everything. The lower end components might work well for those who have not ridden better, and they usually give pretty good service when they are brand new, but they do not hold adjustments well and they tend to wear and give sloppy performance more quickly than higher quality components.

As far as changing components is concerned, you will need to add an adjustable stem as this bike does not have one. I am not real fond of Alex rims but that is just my personal opinion. You can ride on the Kenda tires but once they are worn out, you will probably want to go to a better tire such as the Michelin City. Its a better tire with less rolling resistance.

I will admit that the spoke count would be good for your current weight and the frame and fork materials are good. In fact, if you took and stripped down the frame and built it back up with Shimano Deore XT Components, then I would be impressed.

I still think that you should go with the Motobecane Cafe 8 because it has all that you need and it would make Mr. Slim happy too.

This bike has drop handlebars. I thought you wanted flat bars. Other than the handlebars, adjustable stem, and STI brifters (brake levers and shifters in a single unit), it is essentially the same bike. The Ritchey Logic Comp Headset is a step up and the tires, while still Kenda brand, are one of thier better quality offerings. It seems like a decent enough bike for a beginner but you will still have the adjustment issues with the Shimano no-name front derailleur and eventually with the Shimano Sora rear derailleur.

Slim: You aren't seeing mustache bars on mainstream bikes because they aren't popular, except with a certain genre of riders (hard to explain), but they are the folks (like me) who read and buy from Rivendell and Velo Orange, to name a few.  If you want these bars on a bike-store bike, the best thing to do, IMO, is to buy a bike with flat bars.  Then the brakes and shifters will most likely be moveable to the mustache bars with little effort.  There are a lot of types of brake levers to use with those bars, see Velo Orange.  It would be nice if you could ride a bike with those bars before buying, but that may not be possible.  Since you're in CA, I wish I could just send you down the road to the nice folks at Rivendell, but I don't think a $2000 to $3000 bike is in your budget.  We wouldn't want to give hubby a stroke.  But you could buy the bars from them, and speak to them on the phone, I bet they would be helplful.  You might want to do this before you buy a bike, they may have some suggestions for what to look for in the way of the equipment on the bike, to make for easier conversion to the must. bars. 

So the catch is, you may want a road bike, but with alternate bars.  The nice integrated brake/shifters (sometimes call brifters, a term I dislike) that come on almost all road bikes now,  will do you no good and you''ll have to buy something else.  Or buy something (like Marin Fairfax, if I recall) that is basically a road bike with flat bars, and change the bars.  You're out $75 or whatever the mustache costs, plus price of a stem (most likely), plus installation.  

As far as Shimano road parts go, there is a definite hierarchy, from low to high:  Tiagra, Sora (check on these two, I may have reversed them), 105 (plenty good, I have it), Ultegra and Dura Ace.  There is a similar hierarchy in Shimano mountain bike parts, but I'm not that familiar; some bikes you look at with have mtn. parts, or a mix of the two.

I hope this all helps.  Steve 

Here is a link to affordable Mustache Handle Bars. You will need to add brake levers and bar end shifters, not a big expense. http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/SubCategory_10053_10052_200388_-1_200276_200303 

Handle Bars are easy to change with a couple of common hand tools and some dish soap. PM me if you want more details. 

There is another option for alternating hand positions that is very inexpensive and can be added by your hubby, or even you. Clamp On Bar ends for flat bars.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/SubCategory_10053_10052_200391_-1_200276_200303 

This is the Shimano Hierarchy for Road Bike component groups, Mountain Bike component groups, and Internally Geared Hub component groups. New bike manifacturers will often mix components from different groups to meet their performance goals and price points.

Shimano road bike components, listed from low end to high end are:

Shimano no name, precisely that, no name listed on the component other than the name Shimano found on the cheapest of bicycles.

Shimano 2200 Series. Found on the higher priced discount store bikes. Used to be called Shimano Tourney.

Shimano Sora. Lower end recreational components.

Shimano Tiagra. Recreational components.

Shimano 105. Good entry level components often used by enthusiasts and un-sponsored racers.

Shimano Ultegra. Really good quality, what most un-sponsored racers use.

Shimano Dura Ace. Best quality used mainly by sponsored racers and people who want status that comes with owning the best.

Shimano Di2. Ultra expensive electronic shifting. Currently not legal in USAC sanctioned events.

Shimano Mountain Bike Components, listed from lowest to highest:

Shimano Alivio. Most widely used Shimano MTB component group. It works well.

Shimano Deore. Upgraded recreational component group.

Shimano SLX. Entry level competition components.

Shimano XT. Higher grade but affordable MTB component group.

Shimano Saint. Cosmetically very nice MTB component group. Formerly known as Shimano Sante. For those people whose MTB never goes off the pavement.

Shimano XTR. Highest end, mostly used in competition by sponsored racers and by those people who want the status of owning the very best.

Internally Geared Hub Groups:

Shimano Nexus. Very nice affordable 8 speed drivetrain group

Shimano Afine. Premium 8 speed drivetrain group. 

I second the recommendation for the clampon bar ends.  I have them on my flat bar bike now, and they do help by giving you another hand position which puts your wrists facing inward, rather than down.  They also give you a more forward position if you want to stand when climbing a hill.  They are only about $15/pr at Performance, and are easy to install.  Mine are coming off soon since I will be changing my bike back to drop bars (it's been a work in progress for the last few months!)  but that's just what I think I prefer, and I will be raising the bars to get my position a little more upright.  (Your story about your father-in-law is absolutely frightening, but those things do explain a lot about why some people are the way they are.  So good for you hubby for breaking the mold.) 

Specialized:  You mentioned looking at their bikes.  I don't  see the Globe on their current website (I recall it being more of an around-town bike, but that was years ago)  Of the current models, I think you should check out the Sirrus line.  Road-bike oriented, with flat bars. 

And delong, thanks for the Nashbar link.  I had no idea that they sold mustache bars for so little.   Gives me something to think about...

Actually, this is a good bike at a good price...the componenets are recreational grade, all good quality and guarantee trouble free riding. Very few cyclists will appreciate an upgrade. The 700x28 tires are a bit fat for performance asphalt but are perfect for any road that's less than smooth...I'd ride these on unpaved roads without a problem.

The only issue my be fit. If this is a true WSD frame, then it will work only if you're built like a girl, meaning longer legs and shorter arms than men.. Works for some, but many women need traditional frames. If possible, I'd recommend sitting on the bike before buying it...it may save a lot of pain.

Overall, though, not a bad bike for the price. It's not made for competition, but a good all-round, high performance sport bike.

Ask a 100, you'll get 150 opinions. I just got my first CPP pension cheque proving that I'm older than you, and the benefit of a long life is that I've learned not to listen to anyone, especially to recommendations on anything that I have to sit on and peddle.

Do yourself a favour...once you have an idea of the kind of riding that you intend to do, pick a comfortable bike with a wide range of gears...that sporty bike with a granny in your OP was a good choice, it will do everything well. It will actually surprise you with it's ability to climb.

But I don't listen, so I've got 15 bikes in my quiver, something for every occasion.

Thanks, will do.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that buying a bike from a web based retailer is not something that most people would recommend. Not only fit and quality but in-transit damage is a huge issue (ask all those Ibex customers who received bikes with bent hangers) and after sales service/warranty adjustments can become very complicated. Also, keep in mind that bikes are made to look pretty to sell, but a purty bike may not work as well...actually, I've noticed that the worst bikes look the best.

Also, don't make the mistake of using the seat tube length to determine fit. All it does is determine the size of the front triangle, many manufacturers like a long seat post and a small triangle to help with the climbs, the real fit issue is the length of the top tube. I've got a 20" bike that's rated a "medium" and a 17" that's huge....has a 15.25" BB height and a 33" standover!

But watch out for those pretty bikes...that's how I ended up with that Trek 7.5fx POS that I ended giving away to make room for a good bike (one that's very close to the bike in your OP).

A good LBS is worth every penny...I now pay a premium to ensure that I get what I want...and get great service and warranty work...my wife's CF fork on her road bike cracked after 3 years and she had a new one delivered and installed at no charge in 48 hours. I bent my seat stay on my Ellsworth in a crash and had a new one couriered from California in 3 working days...good luck getting that from an Internet site.

Mrs. M. has a longer torso and shorter legs than the average woman so we need to fiddle with her bikes...I always replace the stem and bars with risers, look at builds with longer top tubes and lower bottom brackets and shorter head tubes. I took 2 years to find the right XC bike for her build.

Anyway, ride safe.