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post #211 of 219
Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyserving View Post

 

. With a tubeless tire, obviously I do not have to carry extra tubes. Would it be wise for me to carry a patch kit of some sort? From what I have read, most of the flats on tubeless systems are what they call burp flats, where you hit against something which causes the seal to be compromised thus causing a flat. Obviously I need to carry a pump and levers but I am not sure what else is wise to be carried. I may just take off my road saddle bag and strap it on to the MTB when I ride.

Yes, you want to still carry a patch kit. Even though most of the flats on a tubeless tire are burp flats, not all of the flats are burp flats. You can poke a hole in a tubless tire as easily as you can a tubie. Most UST (Universal System for Tubeless) tire manufacturers suggest that you use vulcanizing glue patch instead of a glueless patch. You apply the patch to the inside of the tire following the patch kits directions. You might want to add a couple of pieces of course sandpaper to the patch kit because you need to scuff up the butyl liner in the UST tire more deeply than you would on an inner tube. If you have any doubts about using a conventional vulcanizing glue patch kit, you can buy a UST specific patch kit. Hutchinson makes one that I know of but I am sure that there are others on the market.

 

 

post #212 of 219

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyserving View Post

 

Is there a way to adjust the tension or amount of force it takes to separate your cleat from the pedal? The pedals on the MTB are the Time ATAC's (I believe thats what their called)? I would imagine that if so, I would want to adjust them to a setting which allows me to get my foot unclipped relatively easy. 


There should be an ALLEN bolt head on the rear of the pedal's binding (don't forget to adjust BOTH SIDES) which allows you to adjust the tension ...

 

BTW.  This might seem dodgy ...

 

  • I'm not sure what the separation is between the two "loops" but if a snug engagement isn't important, then you can probably use a "regular" SHIMANO SPD cleat which I reckon probably has a slightly shorter fore-aft span (have a friend see whether or not the cleat on his/her shoe adequately engages the front "loop" before buying a set of Shimano SPD cleats).

 

 

post #213 of 219
Thread Starter 
Thanks. I will take a look at the pedal for that Allen bolt head. Is there a universal direction for loosening and tightening or are they different for each type of pedal? I'm also going to get me a patch kit and sandpaper. Excellent advice. Next question is regarding shock air pressure. Is there a specific PSI to put these at for weight of the rider? The previous owner was pushing 250 and I am around 180. Also, I am sure that over time, the air decreases much like a tire. Onto that question, why does it seem that after a week of my bike sitting (road bike here) my tire pressure is significantly lower than what it was for my last ride? Is this normal or do you think I have slow leaks in my tubes? The bikes sit in an air controlled building, on its tires though (going to get a stand soon).
post #214 of 219
Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyserving View Post

Thanks. I will take a look at the pedal for that Allen bolt head. Is there a universal direction for loosening and tightening or are they different for each type of pedal? I'm also going to get me a patch kit and sandpaper. Excellent advice. Next question is regarding shock air pressure. Is there a specific PSI to put these at for weight of the rider? The previous owner was pushing 250 and I am around 180. Also, I am sure that over time, the air decreases much like a tire. Onto that question, why does it seem that after a week of my bike sitting (road bike here) my tire pressure is significantly lower than what it was for my last ride? Is this normal or do you think I have slow leaks in my tubes? The bikes sit in an air controlled building, on its tires though (going to get a stand soon).

All the release tension adjustors I know of on pedals work by preloading a spring with the adjustment screw. As such it will be righty tighty and lefty loosey for the adjustment. In other words clockwise to make release more difficult and counterclockwise to make release easier.

With respect to tubeless tires. The prevailing wisdom seems to be for a rider to put some tire sealant into the tubeless tire (Stan's No Tubes, Effeto Mariposa Caffe Latex, Slime). I'd say that the most popular with regular cyclists is Stan's No Tubes. Effecto Mariposa Caffe Latex seems to top a lot of reviews and test evaluations in terms of effictiveness. Slime is likely the most easy to find. IMHO, Slime is messy and buggers you pretty well if it doesn't hold and you have to patch. It's the messiest by far. To have a backup if the sealant doesn't hold, I'd just carry an inner tube on your rides, as well as a patch kit. Using an inner tube requires removing that tubeless valve stem, but that's easy. The tubeless valve stem can easily be removed.

If it hasn't already been mentioned, I'd suggest that you get a multi-tool to carry on rides. I carry one on my road bike. A multi-tool can allow you to fix or adjust things on the go without having to call home for a ride.

How fast a inner tube loses air is dependent on what the inner tube is made from, how thick the inner tube walls are, and the quality of the tube. IMHO, you should be checking your tire pressure before each ride. At worst, you should check your tire pressure before every other ride. It's easy to check the pressure and takes only a handful of seconds. Tire pressure will decrease over time. Butyl rubber in the thickness of bike inner tubes is not air tight. Staying on top of tire inflation will optimize how long your tires last and will reduce the chances of something going all pear shaped on the road (or trail).

I don't think it's been mentioned, but you should stick with using butyl rubber inner tubes. Don't buy (mistakenly or not) latex inner tubes. While they are light and reduce rolling resistance, they have to be inflated every day since the latex leaks air at comparatively fast rate 10-30psi or more overnight.

You might want to ask the Forum which tire sealants people like. My vote is for Caffe Latex. It's available at least at Excel Sports. FWIW, Excel Sports is one of the very best online retailers. As a bonus, they actually have a brick and mortar shop in Boulder, CO, but it'd be expensive for you to visit their store. Their online orders are handled and shipped very quickly. Their prices may not be the lowest, but they have sales and specials frequently. To top it off, their staff is über knowledgeable.
post #215 of 219
Thread Starter 

As usual, awesome advice. I did in fact pick-up a Lezyne Multi-tool. I have no idea how to use the chain break gadget on it but the other tools are incredible. I acutually use the chain break tool as my flathead screwdriver.

 

I will have to check the online store out you recommended. I also like the idea of having tubes with me. I take it that I would just need to get the size from the tire? I know they are 26" tires but is there a wall thickness size as well dependent upon the tubless tire that is on the bike?

post #216 of 219
Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyserving View Post

As usual, awesome advice. I did in fact pick-up a Lezyne Multi-tool. I have no idea how to use the chain break gadget on it but the other tools are incredible. I acutually use the chain break tool as my flathead screwdriver.

 

I will have to check the online store out you recommended. I also like the idea of having tubes with me. I take it that I would just need to get the size from the tire? I know they are 26" tires but is there a wall thickness size as well dependent upon the tubless tire that is on the bike?


How wide are tires?

There are very likely YouTube videos that show you step-by-step how to break a chain/use a chain tool. It's a really easy process.

Lezine makes some really beautiful stuff. It does tend to be pricier than comparable products from other manufacturers, but the build quality and finish of their tools, pumps, and etc tend to be also better.
post #217 of 219
Thread Starter 
Not sure on the width of the tires. I am in Arizona for a conference. I will take a look when I get back.
post #218 of 219

First, I would like to thank-you for your service.  It is people like you, who make it possible for people like me to bike the greatest country in the world.

 

I would recommend you go to an actual LBS, not some guy who is working out his house.  I can't imagine what kind of work would have to be done to a bike that would be $400.  This is an aluminum bike, so scratches are not a big deal.

 

Go to Performance Bike and have them check it out.  They are national and they don't work off commission, so they can give you a straight answer.

 

Good luck, and ride on.

post #219 of 219
Thread Starter 

You are welcome for my service. I proudly continue to serve and will do so until they either tell me its time to leave or my body gives out on me.

 

I would love to be able to take my bike to a bike shop chain, but unfortunately the closest one is over an hour and a half away from where I reside (Raleigh, NC or Richmond, VA). There are a few LBS but they are small and other than paying rent for a downtown shop, the services they offer are comparable to the guy working from his house. The fact he works from his house allows him to price his goods and services a little lower than the downton owners.

 

I cant wait to get back on my bike. The weather was horrible last weekend so I am hoping for good weather this weekend. Between my full-time job with the National Guard and the one weekend per month of drill, its been a little bit difficult to find the time, not to mention I am recovering from shoulder surgery.

 

I have not been asking a lot of questions lately because I have not devoted any time into cycling. I am sure that will all change once the weather is nicer and I can ride more. 

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