Quote:
Originally Posted by
TimLube22 

This the seat I'm talking about. It's 9-1/2" at it's widest point. I'm not a BIG guy, I've got a little bit to lose, but I'd consider myself average. I don't even fully plant myself on the biggest part of this seat.
Any bike shop worth having your money will let you buy a saddle and then switch it for another if the first doesn't work. In fact, such a bike shop should let you do that process until you find something that coddles your peaches. Of course if you damage a saddle in the tryout process, you own it. Understand that trying a saddle out properly requires using it for a while, at least a week IMHO, unless the saddle is such an a$$ hatchet that you can't ride it for a week. More shops are starting to stock test saddles made up of saddles from their own inventory or of designated test saddles from saddle manufacturers. Fizik and Selle San Marco are two saddle makers that can supply LBS's with test saddles. If your LBS has such a saddle, it's likely no money or at least a minimal deposit will be required to test that saddle.
Saddles can be counterintuitive: you might think that cushy saddles are more comfortable, but on road bikes and longer rides more firm saddles work better because the more firm foam doesn't bottom out. Also cushy saddles allow you to sink into the saddle and can put undue pressure on sensitive bits. As has been mentioned, the right saddle for you will likely have a width that will be equal to or a bit wider than the distance between your sit bones. This isn't always the case though. For whatever reason, there are riders who need saddles that are a bit more narrow than the distance between their sit bones. Another confounding bit about saddles is the "cut-out", literally a hole or a softer area along the center of the saddle that's designed to decrease pressure on grollies and associated blood vessels and nerves. Some people need a saddle with a cut-out and some don't. Alarmist publications and people will have you believe that if you don't have a cut out, your giblets will go numb, turn black, and fall off. That's simply not true in every case. Whether you need a cut-out or not is dependent on your physiology, not anyone else's.
You may get lucky and find you're one of those people that can get on with most any saddle, but it's more likely that you're not. Like every other cyclist, you're going to have to go through the time honored process of finding out if you need a flat saddle or one that is concave from front to back; one that's flat from left to right or one that's arched from left to right; one that's narrow or one that's wide; one with a cut out or one without.