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#1 |
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Guest
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FOr quick-release saddle, what's the best way to secure it
besides removing it and carrying it? I'm looking for a solid way to secure it, by that I mean as secure as U-locking the bike frame. If this isn't possible, then I guess I'll just have to carry it... I love my saddle, and I know many people envy it because it's so ergonomic and has cool flashy tail lights. |
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#2 |
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On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 03:19:08 GMT, "Mohap" <nospam@hotmail.com> wrote:
>FOr quick-release saddle, what's the best way to secure it >besides removing it and carrying it? I'm looking for a >solid way to secure it, by that I mean as secure as U- >locking the bike frame. If this isn't possible, then I >guess I'll just have to carry it... > >I love my saddle, and I know many people envy it because >it's so ergonomic and has cool flashy tail lights. > > > Well, you could u-lock it to the frame as long as the seat post isn't too far up... Get rid of the quick release. Best to replace it with an English- sized allen bolt- most bike thieves carry metric. Small cables will deter the pleasure thief but is easily cut with the proper tool. My thinking is that if it's out of sight I had better be prepared to lose it. If I can't stand losing it, I don't lock it up on streets, etc. |
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#3 |
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Dan Daniel <ddandan.remove@pacbell.net> wrote:
>Get rid of the quick release. Best to replace it with an >English-sized allen bolt- most bike thieves carry metric. Yeah, but are they really worried about mangling the nut using a slightly too-small key? -- David Damerell <damerell@chiark.greenend.org.uk> flcl? |
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#4 |
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On 28 Jun 2004 14:46:04 +0100 (BST), David Damerell
<damerell@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote: >Dan Daniel <ddandan.remove@pacbell.net> wrote: >>Get rid of the quick release. Best to replace it with an >>English-sized allen bolt- most bike thieves carry metric. > >Yeah, but are they really worried about mangling the nut >using a slightly too-small key? Just hope that either the wrench or the opening rounds out before they get it loose? There aren't many nut and bolt combos that can't be jacked open with a couple of basic tools. Maybe a button head bolt and nylock nut would be the best to slow down someone with an adjustable wrench and pliers. And if they really want the saddle, little will stop them from undoing it from the seatpost. Most saddle thefts are impulse or low-level junkie jobs, I bet. Real bike thieves with real tools will take the whole bike. There is no perfect solution except never letting it out of your sight. |
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#5 |
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Guest
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Several years ago my new Bridgestone came with a "theft
resistant" seatpost clamp bolt. After setting it, you removed the lever and put it in your pocket. I found it a PIA, and got rid of it, but in this context, it might be worthwhile. Anyone know if they are still available? If you are good with tools, you could make a special nut/wrench combination that noone else has. For example, fireplug stems are five-sided, to keep the public from turning them. Maybe someone should start manufacturing special keyed nuts like those used to protect fancy car wheels. |
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#6 |
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In article
<M6MDc.30908$Y3.13630@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net>, nospam@hotmail.com says... >FOr quick-release saddle, what's the best way to secure it >besides removing it and carrying it? I'm looking for a >solid way to secure it, by that I mean as secure as U- >locking the bike frame. If this isn't possible, then I >guess I'll just have to carry it... > >I love my saddle, and I know many people envy it because >it's so ergonomic and has cool flashy tail lights. replace the quick release with a regular collar with allen head bolt. Then take an old tube and and old chain measure the chain so that you can wrap it through the seat races and through the seat stays. Cut the old inner tube about 2 inches longer than the chain. Put the chain in the older inner tube and then thread it through the seat rails and the seat stays. Peel back the inner tube and join the chain using your handy chain tool. Roll the tube back down. Then wrap the chain in the center section with electrical tape. This will keep the chain from rattling. Now if a thief wants your seat he will need both an allen wrench and a chain tool. ------------- Alex |
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#7 |
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Guest
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RE/
>FOr quick-release saddle, what's the best way to secure it >besides removing it and carrying it? I'm looking for a >solid way to secure it, by that I mean as secure as U- >locking the bike frame. If this isn't possible, then I >guess I'll just have to carry it... First thing I think of (because I have the tool...about $14.00 at West Marine) is getting a couple feet of steel cable and NicroPressing a loop that goes through the rails on the saddle and the chainstays. -- PeteCresswell |
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#8 |
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"Mohap" <nospam@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<M6MDc.30908$Y3.13630@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net>...
> FOr quick-release saddle, what's the best way to secure it > besides removing it and carrying it? I'm looking for a > solid way to secure it, by that I mean as secure as U- > locking the bike frame. If this isn't possible, then I > guess I'll just have to carry it... > > I love my saddle, and I know many people envy it because > it's so ergonomic and has cool flashy tail lights. In NYC, most messengers use the method Alex Rodriguez mentions (a piece of drivetrain chain inside a length of inner tube). But there are other ways. Kryptonite and Pitlock both make seatpost skewers that require a special key. Master Lock has its own design on its website, but I haven't seen it in the flesh yet. Pitlock doesn't have a US distributor right now, but you can order from Germany (www.pitlock.com). Also, Kool Stop makes a tamper-resistent cylinder that you can put into some types of quick release skewers: http://koolstop.com/brakes/accessories.html (scroll down to Quik Lox). The special skewers won't prevent a determined thief from removing the saddle from the seatpost (which has happened to me). To deter that, I use two-bolt seatposts, put wax in the socket of the bolts, and put nuts (with a little lock-tite) on the part of the bolt that extends above the clamp. (In most cases, the bolt is a few threads longer than necessary). |
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