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#1 |
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capt-<< I can't imagine using a beam type torque wrench on a left crank, 'cause
I don't see how I could get it tight enough while being in a position to read the scale. >><BR><BR> Go to left side of bici, grasp torque wrench in right hand, grasp crank arm in left hand, ensure crankarm and torque wrench are opposite one another, pull both down whilst reading the scale...pretty easy... Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
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#2 |
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Peter Chishom wrote:
> capt-<< I can't imagine using a beam type torque wrench on a left crank, 'cause > > I don't see how I could get it tight enough while being in a position to > read the scale. >><BR><BR> > > Go to left side of bici, grasp torque wrench in right hand, grasp crank arm in > left hand, ensure crankarm and torque wrench are opposite one another, pull > both down whilst reading the scale...pretty easy... Hmmm... you must be a lot shorter than I am, or must have a much taller workstand. I was taught at an early age to pull on wrenches, not push on them, and I don't see how I could do that. with any convenient working position. Maybe I should rethink my position on 185 mm cranks, because I find that, while I can get as long a wrench as I need, the length of the crank limits how tight I can get the left side. Indeed, one of the reasons I don't believe I need a torque wrench is that I basically just get it as tight as my spindly arms can manage. Sheldon "Ummmmmffff!" Brown +-------------------------------------------------+ | What is good for you is what is good for you. | | --Peter Chisholm | +-------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
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#3 |
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Capt-<< Hmmm... you must be a lot shorter than I am, or must have a much taller
workstand. >><BR><BR> Rotate the bike so that the rear wheel is up, crank nearly at eye level. getting 30 ft-lbs just a lot of effort, particularly when using something as log as a torque wrench. Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
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#4 |
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Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
> Capt-<< Hmmm... you must be a lot shorter than I am, or must have a much taller > > workstand. >><BR><BR> > > Rotate the bike so that the rear wheel is up, crank nearly at eye level. > getting 30 ft-lbs just a lot of effort, particularly when using something as > log as a torque wrench. That wouldn't work for me, no way I'd be able to hold the crank with my left arm bent and get the bolt tight enough. Sheldon "Thanks Anyway" Brown +-----------------------------------------------+ | I'll be appearing as Preposteros in | | Gilbert & Sullivan's Thespis at M.I.T. | | April 9-10,15-17 http://web.mit.edu/gsp/www | +-----------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
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#5 |
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Sheldon:
It's easy. You rest the crank on your thigh while sitting next to the bike. Use a glove (or whatever) as a pad. It's easy - I do it whenever I take off the cranks. The nice thing is, I KNOW that my cranks are set to the manufacturers specified torque. MOO, Matt Sheldon Brown wrote: > Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: > >> Capt-<< Hmmm... you must be a lot shorter than I am, or must have a >> much taller >> >> workstand. >><BR><BR> >> >> Rotate the bike so that the rear wheel is up, crank nearly at eye level. >> getting 30 ft-lbs just a lot of effort, particularly when using >> something as >> log as a torque wrench. > > > That wouldn't work for me, no way I'd be able to hold the crank with my > left arm bent and get the bolt tight enough. > > Sheldon "Thanks Anyway" Brown > +-----------------------------------------------+ > | I'll be appearing as Preposteros in | > | Gilbert & Sullivan's Thespis at M.I.T. | > | April 9-10,15-17 http://web.mit.edu/gsp/www | > +-----------------------------------------------+ > Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts > Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 > http://harriscyclery.com > Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide > http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com > |
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#6 |
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Sheldon Brown <CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com> wrote in message news:<4076B191.3030809@sheldonbrown.com>...
[snip racy discussions of wrenching positions] > I was taught at an early age to pull on wrenches, not push > on them . . . > > Sheldon "Ummmmmffff!" Brown Dear Sheldon, Why? Carl Fogel |
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#7 |
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Carl Fogel wrote:
> Sheldon Brown <CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com> wrote in message news:<4076B191.3030809@sheldonbrown.com>... > > [snip racy discussions of wrenching positions] > > >>I was taught at an early age to pull on wrenches, not push >>on them . . . >> >>Sheldon "Ummmmmffff!" Brown > > > Dear Sheldon, > > Why? Dear Carl, In my experience, it is best to apply force to a tool in such a manner that if the tool slips on the fastener one's hand does not crash into hard and/or sharp objects. -- Tom Sherman - Quad Cities (Illinois Side) |
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#8 |
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On Fri, 09 Apr 2004 11:13:00 -0400, Sheldon Brown
<captbike@sheldonbrown.com> wrote: >Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: > >> Capt-<< Hmmm... you must be a lot shorter than I am, or must have a much taller >> >> workstand. >><BR><BR> >> >> Rotate the bike so that the rear wheel is up, crank nearly at eye level. >> getting 30 ft-lbs just a lot of effort, particularly when using something as >> log as a torque wrench. > >That wouldn't work for me, no way I'd be able to hold the crank with my >left arm bent and get the bolt tight enough. Okay, here's another way; the one that works for me. Stand the bike next to a step or other raised platform. I use the front steps of my house. Turn the cranks until one of the arms rests on the step. (I use a small carpet remnant between the concrete and the crank to protect the finish.) In the case of the left crank this has the crank sort of parallel to the chain stay. Leaning over the saddle from the right side of the bike I insert the torque wrench (beam type). I steady the bike with my left hand and tighten with my right. As I apply torque the bike wants to lift off the ground, which I counteract by leaning on the saddle. As the wrench arm comes up to near vertical it's easy to read the needle/scale values. This probably sounds more complicated than it is. Wish I had a picture I could post. jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3 |
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#9 |
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Sheldon wrote:
>>>I was taught at an early age to pull on wrenches, not push >>>on them . . . On Sat, 10 Apr 2004 16:38:45 -0500, Tom Sherman <tsherman@qconline.com> wrote: >In my experience, it is best to apply force to a tool in such a manner >that if the tool slips on the fastener one's hand does not crash into >hard and/or sharp objects. How does pulling help? If the wrench slips, your hand flies in the same direction regardless of which side of the wrench it was on. If you're pushing, you're limited by the length of your arm, and if you're pulling, you're limited by the geometry of your arm. I suppose that pulling down, you'll probably whack your elbow on something before your hand... -- Rick Onanian |
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