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#1 |
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I have looked around and of course find different answers as I expect
I will find here. I am feeling adventurous today so here it goes. When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones with the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque to spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a dab of loctite? I have seen some sites indicate that I can either use loctite 242 or lubricate. Warm regards David James |
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#2 |
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On Tue, 13 Apr 2004 15:14:06 -0500, David James <ddjames@raccoon.com>
wrote: >I have looked around and of course find different answers as I expect >I will find here. I am feeling adventurous today so here it goes. > >When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones >with the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque >to spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a >dab of loctite? I have seen some sites indicate that I can either use >loctite 242 or lubricate. > >Warm regards >David James If you're using 5 steel bolts on the road, use antiseize. If you're using 4 aluminium bolts off road, loctite them. For intermediate situations, one or other of these methods should work! Kinky Cowboy* *Batteries not included May contain traces of nuts Your milage may vary |
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#3 |
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David James wrote:
> When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones > with the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque > to spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a > dab of loctite? I have seen some sites indicate that I can either use > loctite 242 or lubricate. =20 You should absolutely, positively _not_ use Loctite on chainring bolts=20 if you ever hope to get them apart in the future. Best is a drop of medium-weight oil (I use Phil Wood) on the bolt=20 threads, making sure not to get any oil on the outside of the nuts.=20 That way, you'll usually be able to tighten (and loosen) the bolts=20 sufficiently without needing to hold the nuts with a pin wrench. Sheldon "Last Resort:=20 http://harriscyclery.net/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=3D545" Brown +-----------------------------------------------+ | I=92m appearing as Preposteros in | | Gilbert & Sullivan's Thespis at M.I.T. | | April 9-10,15-17 http://web.mit.edu/gsp/www | | http://sheldonbrown.com/music.html | | Photos: http://sheldonbrown.org/g-s/thespis | +-----------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
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#4 |
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David James wrote:
> I have looked around and of course find different answers as I expect I > will find here. I am feeling adventurous today so here it goes. > When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones with > the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque to > spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a dab > of loctite? I have seen some sites indicate that I can either use > loctite 242 or lubricate. > Warm regards David James I think Loctite 242 covering the threads is a good idea. I would carefully clean external and internal threads first. I haven't tried them or even seen them, but the chainring bolts with Torx heads hold some attraction to me. By size of the threads and torque specification you wouldn't need grease, but if I weren't using Loctite 242 I would use either grease or anti-sieze compound. I am not trolling for boudreaux with the mention of anti-sieze. -- |
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#5 |
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RE/
>Should I just torque >to spec, Toasting a series of alu chairing bolts by feel was the impetus that got me to buy a torque wrench. Now I use steel and blue LocTite - but still a torque wrench. -- PeteCresswell |
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#6 |
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>You should absolutely, positively _not_ use Loctite on chainring bolts >if you ever hope to get them apart in the future. > too late I just did it (G) but all it takes is a little heat to melt the loctite so it is not permanent. -- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. |
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#7 |
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Best is a drop of medium-weight oil (I use Phil Wood) on the bolt threads, Sheldon, What do you think about bees wax on chainring bolt threads? Regards, Larry |
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#8 |
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> Sheldon,
> What do you think about bees wax on chainring bolt threads? No no, wax only on the nipples. "Larry Fieman" <_antispam_fieman@comcast.net> wrote in message news:sx2fc.128169$gA5.1548884@attbi_s03... > > > Best is a drop of medium-weight oil (I use Phil Wood) on the bolt > threads, > > > Sheldon, > What do you think about bees wax on chainring bolt threads? > > Regards, > Larry > > |
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#9 |
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ddjames-<< When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones
with the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque to spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a dab of loctite? >><BR><BR> Grease onto the threads and also a wee bit onto the crank flats where the rings live and then tight. be careful, these are aluminum...NOT loctite, IMO- Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
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#10 |
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On Tue, 13 Apr 2004 15:14:06 -0500, David James <ddjames@raccoon.com>
wrote: >I have looked around and of course find different answers as I expect >I will find here. I am feeling adventurous today so here it goes. > >When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones >with the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque >to spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a >dab of loctite? I have seen some sites indicate that I can either use >loctite 242 or lubricate. > >Warm regards >David James Thanks for all the replies. I have the Phil Wood lube and will go with that. I do have a pin wrench, but no torque wrench. I will tighten until reasonably snug. David James |
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#11 |
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On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 03:49:44 GMT, "Larry Fieman" <_antispam_fieman@comcast.net>
wrote: > > >Best is a drop of medium-weight oil (I use Phil Wood) on the bolt >threads, they kept coming loose so I used the loctite. lots of vibrations on some of the bike paths. -- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. |
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#12 |
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David James wrote:
> I have looked around and of course find different answers as I expect > I will find here. I am feeling adventurous today so here it goes. > > When replacing the chainrings and subsequently reattaching new ones > with the chainring bolts (Dura Ace double 7700), Should I just torque > to spec, (or feel as Sheldon would advise, I think) or do I include a > dab of loctite? I have seen some sites indicate that I can either use > loctite 242 or lubricate. I've never, ever had them come loose. Assuming you're using stock steel bolts, they bite into the softer alu chainring which stops them unscrewing. |
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