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#1 |
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Guest
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I hear that there are compatability issues between 9spd Ultegra and
non-Ultegra components and would like to know if that includes cranks. I have a Trek 400 I bought in 1986 with brand new SIS drivetrain. I rebuild it with Ultegra (bar end shifters) in 1990 (minus the crank/BB) and now I am looking to upgrade it to 27 speed Ultegra set slowly (in budget). Can I replace the BB and crankset with new Ultegra hardware? The Sakae SX double crank is a 5 bolt with a 130mm bcd mounting. If the chainrings have changed, is there any problem using the older chainrings on new Ultegra cranks? The BB is in the worst shape, so I want to replace it, the crankset (Ultegra triple) and front derailler (if nessicary) first. I would use my existing 7 speed wheelset and derailler (front shifter in friction mode)until I can work replacing the rest into my budget. Its been a number of years since I worked in a bike shop, so any technical details about the new Ultegra 9 speed hardware would be appreciated. Steve |
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#2 |
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Guest
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In article <IABgc.20323$A_4.20263@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net>,
bigsky <nospam4me@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > I hear that there are compatability issues between 9spd Ultegra and > non-Ultegra components and would like to know if that includes cranks. > > I have a Trek 400 I bought in 1986 with brand new SIS drivetrain. I > rebuild it with Ultegra (bar end shifters) in 1990 (minus the crank/BB) > and now I am looking to upgrade it to 27 speed Ultegra set slowly (in > budget). > > Can I replace the BB and crankset with new Ultegra hardware? The Sakae > SX double crank is a 5 bolt with a 130mm bcd mounting. If the > chainrings have changed, is there any problem using the older chainrings > on new Ultegra cranks? > > The BB is in the worst shape, so I want to replace it, the crankset > (Ultegra triple) and front derailler (if nessicary) first. I would use > my existing 7 speed wheelset and derailler (front shifter in friction > mode)until I can work replacing the rest into my budget. Its been a > number of years since I worked in a bike shop, so any technical details > about the new Ultegra 9 speed hardware would be appreciated. Are you upgrading to new Ultegra gear? Because the 2004 Ultegra is all but guaranteed to use the new Hollowtech II crank/BB setup. This looks like a substantial improvement over the current pipe-spindle design used by Shimano. Also, if you need a stopgap BB, something like a Shimano UN-72 is about $20 and of very good quality. Ultegra will also likely become a 10-speed group next year, but that matters much less, since the only part that is likely to change due to that is the right shifter, and possibly the freehub body. Based on the Dura-Ace 10 setup, everything else will be compatible between 9 and 10 speed. -- Ryan Cousineau, rcousine@sfu.ca http://www.sfu.ca/~rcousine/wiredcola/ President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club |
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#3 |
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Guest
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Ryan,
I'm not hung up on going with the newest Ultegra. I've been out of serious riding for some time, but I have been happy with the old Ultegra. If I can get a new 2003 ultegra crank for a bargin, thats OK. I have even been considering using a different crank (Ritchey comes to mind) if there is a problem in using old + new Ultegra. As long as I can get a quality system built in stages to get me riding faster (schedule, not speed). Steve Ryan Cousineau wrote: > In article <IABgc.20323$A_4.20263@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net>, > bigsky <nospam4me@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > > >>I hear that there are compatability issues between 9spd Ultegra and >>non-Ultegra components and would like to know if that includes cranks. >> >>I have a Trek 400 I bought in 1986 with brand new SIS drivetrain. I >>rebuild it with Ultegra (bar end shifters) in 1990 (minus the crank/BB) >>and now I am looking to upgrade it to 27 speed Ultegra set slowly (in >>budget). >> >>Can I replace the BB and crankset with new Ultegra hardware? The Sakae >>SX double crank is a 5 bolt with a 130mm bcd mounting. If the >>chainrings have changed, is there any problem using the older chainrings >>on new Ultegra cranks? >> >>The BB is in the worst shape, so I want to replace it, the crankset >>(Ultegra triple) and front derailler (if nessicary) first. I would use >>my existing 7 speed wheelset and derailler (front shifter in friction >>mode)until I can work replacing the rest into my budget. Its been a >>number of years since I worked in a bike shop, so any technical details >>about the new Ultegra 9 speed hardware would be appreciated. > > > Are you upgrading to new Ultegra gear? Because the 2004 Ultegra is all > but guaranteed to use the new Hollowtech II crank/BB setup. This looks > like a substantial improvement over the current pipe-spindle design used > by Shimano. > > Also, if you need a stopgap BB, something like a Shimano UN-72 is about > $20 and of very good quality. > > Ultegra will also likely become a 10-speed group next year, but that > matters much less, since the only part that is likely to change due to > that is the right shifter, and possibly the freehub body. Based on the > Dura-Ace 10 setup, everything else will be compatible between 9 and 10 > speed. > |
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#4 |
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Guest
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In article <BElhc.17002$l75.3099@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net>,
bigsky <nospam4me@ix.netcom.com> wrote: [post de-TOFU'd] > Ryan Cousineau wrote: > > In article <IABgc.20323$A_4.20263@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net>, > > bigsky <nospam4me@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > >>The BB is in the worst shape, so I want to replace it, the crankset > >>(Ultegra triple) and front derailler (if nessicary) first. I would use > >>my existing 7 speed wheelset and derailler (front shifter in friction > >>mode)until I can work replacing the rest into my budget. Its been a > >>number of years since I worked in a bike shop, so any technical details > >>about the new Ultegra 9 speed hardware would be appreciated. Basically, the new Ultegra hardware is pretty straightforward. A set of 9v shifters will work with almost any indexing-capable Shimano derailleurs. > > Are you upgrading to new Ultegra gear? Because the 2004 Ultegra is all > > but guaranteed to use the new Hollowtech II crank/BB setup. This looks > > like a substantial improvement over the current pipe-spindle design used > > by Shimano. > > Ultegra will also likely become a 10-speed group next year, but that > > matters much less, since the only part that is likely to change due to > > that is the right shifter, and possibly the freehub body. Based on the > > Dura-Ace 10 setup, everything else will be compatible between 9 and 10 > > speed. > > I'm not hung up on going with the newest Ultegra. I've been out of > serious riding for some time, but I have been happy with the old > Ultegra. If I can get a new 2003 ultegra crank for a bargin, thats OK. > I have even been considering using a different crank (Ritchey comes to > mind) if there is a problem in using old + new Ultegra. As long as I > can get a quality system built in stages to get me riding faster > (schedule, not speed). > Steve If you can get recent Ultegra cheaply, that's super. But since you're not racing and just want nice gear, in Shimano's line I would consider 105, at least if price matters much. The reason I suggest it is that it has most of the performance of Ultegra (and as of right now, there are virtually no functional differences: they use the same BB spindle type, and are both 9-speed systems). If if it was me, and my budget fell into the can-afford-Ultegra-but-can't-wait-until-Fall-for-2005-Ultegra range, I would probably buy an aftermarket crank, BB, and rings (probably something fancy and ISIS-based like those nifty FSA cranks), mainly because what I have heard here (mainly from Jobst) leads me to believe that ISIS spindles do not have the same inherent spindle-damage issues that Shimano's Octalink setup does. As for the rest of the system, Tiagra is most of the functionality and a bit more weight for a lot less money, but by then you're into square-taper spindles and cheesier-looking shifters (style matters, right?) Finally, I am a sucker for the 105 black-colored group, so there you go. Keep in mind I am so cheap I race on a bike with a Sora shifter, right side only. -- Ryan Cousineau, rcousine@sfu.ca http://www.sfu.ca/~rcousine/wiredcola/ President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club |
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#5 |
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Guest
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bigsky wrote:
> I hear that there are compatability issues between 9spd Ultegra and > non-Ultegra components and would like to know if that includes cranks. > > I have a Trek 400 I bought in 1986 with brand new SIS drivetrain. I > rebuild it with Ultegra (bar end shifters) in 1990 (minus the crank/BB) > and now I am looking to upgrade it to 27 speed Ultegra set slowly (in > budget). > > Can I replace the BB and crankset with new Ultegra hardware? The Sakae > SX double crank is a 5 bolt with a 130mm bcd mounting. If the > chainrings have changed, is there any problem using the older chainrings > on new Ultegra cranks? > > The BB is in the worst shape, so I want to replace it, the crankset > (Ultegra triple) and front derailler (if nessicary) first. I would use > my existing 7 speed wheelset and derailler (front shifter in friction > mode)until I can work replacing the rest into my budget. Its been a > number of years since I worked in a bike shop, so any technical details > about the new Ultegra 9 speed hardware would be appreciated. > > Steve Steve, I assume your Trek is 21 speed (7 speed rear)? Since you want to go with 27 speed (9 rear), you will need to upgrade a lot of components. Rear hub (rebuild or replace rear wheel), cassette, chain, shifters, most likely rear deraileur as well. I have used 8 speed cranks with 9 speed drivetrains (may or may not work ok), but since you are looking for a new crank/bb anyway... If you use friction (front) bar-end shifters, you can get by with a 7/8 speed front deraileur. But since you are already spending $$ for the rest of the stuff, you might as well get the front deraileur too. You may need to spread the rear drop-outs of your frame also. I think the rear hub spacing may have increased between 7 and 8 speed. I guess the point I am getting to is: How attached are you to your Trek? It is very easy to spend more upgrading your old bike than it would cost to buy a new bike, especially with some of the close-out deals going on now. Add up all the parts and see if it is cost effective. If not, maybe replace the BB for now, and save up for a new bike. |
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#6 |
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artisticwill@worldnet.att.net (rocketman58) wrote in message news:<70ce0d5a.0404210930.39eb48b@posting.google.com>...
> bigsky wrote: > > > I assume your Trek is 21 speed (7 speed rear)? Since you want to go > with 27 speed (9 rear), you will need to upgrade a lot of components. > Rear hub (rebuild or replace rear wheel), cassette, chain, shifters, > most likely rear deraileur as well. I have used 8 speed cranks with 9 > speed drivetrains (may or may not work ok), but since you are looking > for a new crank/bb anyway... If you use friction (front) bar-end > shifters, you can get by with a 7/8 speed front deraileur. But since > you are already spending $$ for the rest of the stuff, you might as > well get the front deraileur too. You may need to spread the rear > drop-outs of your frame also. I think the rear hub spacing may have > increased between 7 and 8 speed. > > I guess the point I am getting to is: How attached are you to your > Trek? It is very easy to spend more upgrading your old bike than it > would cost to buy a new bike, especially with some of the close-out > deals going on now. Add up all the parts and see if it is cost > effective. If not, maybe replace the BB for now, and save up for a > new bike. Nyet! The Trek 400 is a wonderful bike and it would be a shame not to take advantage of it and fix it up. You are a bit off on your suppositions. A 1986 Trek would have had a 6sp freewheel in the rear, not 7. The rear dropout spacing should be 126; possible to put a modern 130mm hub in there, but easier and better to spread the rear. Not that big of deal. Contrary to your post, the front end of the drive train is essentially blind to what is on the rear. I can take my 1988 Trek 400T and put on a 9sp rear and not worry one bit about the current cranks and front derailleur. What does need to match are the shifters and the front derailleur, and the chainrings and the front derailleur. If it were me, I would not rush to STI. I would move the DT shifters to bar ends, get a better crankset/BB, and then ... if needed ... fix up the wheels. Wait a minute, this was me a few months ago. All I did so far was move the DT shifters and build new wheels. Was tempted to spread the rear for an 8 or 9 sp drive train, but in the end pulled out an old Phil Wood threaded hubset and still have a 6sp freewheel on the back. Want to ditch the BioPace crankset, but that can wait a day or two. Even used it on a 3 day mini-tour in February - worked great. My vote, keep the nice steel frame and fix it up to be what you want. - rick |
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#7 |
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Guest
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> bigsky wrote:
>>Can I replace the BB and crankset with new Ultegra hardware? The Sakae >>SX double crank is a 5 bolt with a 130mm bcd mounting. If the >>chainrings have changed, is there any problem using the older chainrings >>on new Ultegra cranks? >> >>The BB is in the worst shape, so I want to replace it, the crankset >>(Ultegra triple) and front derailler (if nessicary) first. I would use >>my existing 7 speed wheelset and derailler (front shifter in friction >>mode)until I can work replacing the rest into my budget. Its been a >>number of years since I worked in a bike shop, so any technical details >>about the new Ultegra 9 speed hardware would be appreciated. If you replace the BB and the cranks at the same time, you should have no problems. The new chainrings should work just fine with the old chain and f. derailler, assuming the chainrings are about the same size. If the old chainrings are smallish (i.e. 26-38-48), your front derailler will work but shifting will be less than optimal. rocketman58 wrote: > I assume your Trek is 21 speed (7 speed rear)? Since you want to go > with 27 speed (9 rear), you will need to upgrade a lot of components. > Rear hub (rebuild or replace rear wheel), cassette, chain, shifters, > most likely rear deraileur as well. If the old rear wheel has a freewheel, you'll need a new rear hub. If the old rear wheel has a cassette you'll be able to use the old wheel with a new freehub. If you're unfamiliar with the terms freehub, freewheel, and cassette, go to www.sheldonbrown.com/harris and look the words up in his glossary. You'll also find an excellent page that will answer most (if not all) of your questions on this matter. You won't need to replace the rear derailler if it's made by Shimano. > How attached are you to your > Trek? It is very easy to spend more upgrading your old bike than it > would cost to buy a new bike, especially with some of the close-out > deals going on now. Add up all the parts and see if it is cost > effective. If not, maybe replace the BB for now, and save up for a > new bike. I second that opinion. I'd modify it by saying this: if you want an Ultegra drivetrain, the new bike route might make more sense than the upgrade. If you want to refurbish the old bike, I suggest using lower-cost components. They work just as well, but they weigh a bit more and maybe don't quite look as nice. The cheaper components won't impress your friends as much, but if you're riding a 1986 bike, you're probably not worried about that. -- Dave dvt at psu dot edu |
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#8 |
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dvt wrote:
> If the old rear wheel has a freewheel, you'll need a new rear hub. If > the old rear wheel has a cassette you'll be able to use the old wheel > with a new freehub. If you're unfamiliar with the terms freehub, > freewheel, and cassette, go to www.sheldonbrown.com/harris and look the > words up in his glossary. You'll also find an excellent page that will > answer most (if not all) of your questions on this matter. You can NOT use a 9 speed Shimano Cassette on a 7 speed Shimano freehub - At least not with all 9 cogs. At least his has been my experience. |
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#9 |
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Guest
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Thank you for all the info. Basically there are several aspects of what
I am doing here. I want to keep my steel frame, one I specifically selected for the geometry. Not to mention, they do not make steel frames much anymore, and I don't like the feel of aluminum. The only frmaes in steel are not of as high quality or are very costly. When I upgraded my Trek before (12 to 14 speed, SIS to Ultegra with bar ends) in 1990, I was working for a bike shop (Bicycle Sports, Shereveport LA). I enjoyed working on the bike as much as riding it and had plenty of access to the tools required. I even built the wheelset that are still strong and true today. Now, I don't have access to the tools, so instead of spending all the money to get a new bike, I will be using the same amount to buy upgrade components and tools for wheelbuilding. Long story short (too late, I know) not only do I want to keep the frame, I want to invest in some tools to have some fun too. I'm just glad I can upgrade slowly so I don't have to take it out of commision or have to do it all at once. Thank you for your help. Steve dvt wrote: >> bigsky wrote: >> >>> Can I replace the BB and crankset with new Ultegra hardware? The >>> Sakae SX double crank is a 5 bolt with a 130mm bcd mounting. If the >>> chainrings have changed, is there any problem using the older >>> chainrings on new Ultegra cranks? >>> >>> The BB is in the worst shape, so I want to replace it, the crankset >>> (Ultegra triple) and front derailler (if nessicary) first. I would >>> use my existing 7 speed wheelset and derailler (front shifter in >>> friction mode)until I can work replacing the rest into my budget. >>> Its been a number of years since I worked in a bike shop, so any >>> technical details about the new Ultegra 9 speed hardware would be >>> appreciated. > > > If you replace the BB and the cranks at the same time, you should have > no problems. The new chainrings should work just fine with the old chain > and f. derailler, assuming the chainrings are about the same size. If > the old chainrings are smallish (i.e. 26-38-48), your front derailler > will work but shifting will be less than optimal. > > rocketman58 wrote: > >> I assume your Trek is 21 speed (7 speed rear)? Since you want to go >> with 27 speed (9 rear), you will need to upgrade a lot of components. >> Rear hub (rebuild or replace rear wheel), cassette, chain, shifters, >> most likely rear deraileur as well. > > > If the old rear wheel has a freewheel, you'll need a new rear hub. If > the old rear wheel has a cassette you'll be able to use the old wheel > with a new freehub. If you're unfamiliar with the terms freehub, > freewheel, and cassette, go to www.sheldonbrown.com/harris and look the > words up in his glossary. You'll also find an excellent page that will > answer most (if not all) of your questions on this matter. > > You won't need to replace the rear derailler if it's made by Shimano. > >> How attached are you to your >> Trek? It is very easy to spend more upgrading your old bike than it >> would cost to buy a new bike, especially with some of the close-out >> deals going on now. Add up all the parts and see if it is cost >> effective. If not, maybe replace the BB for now, and save up for a >> new bike. > > > I second that opinion. I'd modify it by saying this: if you want an > Ultegra drivetrain, the new bike route might make more sense than the > upgrade. If you want to refurbish the old bike, I suggest using > lower-cost components. They work just as well, but they weigh a bit more > and maybe don't quite look as nice. The cheaper components won't impress > your friends as much, but if you're riding a 1986 bike, you're probably > not worried about that. > |
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#10 |
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Guest
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rocketman58 wrote:
> dvt wrote: > >>If the old rear wheel has a freewheel, you'll need a new rear hub. If >>the old rear wheel has a cassette you'll be able to use the old wheel >>with a new freehub. If you're unfamiliar with the terms freehub, >>freewheel, and cassette, go to www.sheldonbrown.com/harris and look the >>words up in his glossary. You'll also find an excellent page that will >>answer most (if not all) of your questions on this matter. > > > You can NOT use a 9 speed Shimano Cassette on a 7 speed Shimano > freehub - At least not with all 9 cogs. At least his has been my > experience. You are right -- only 8 of 9 cogs will fit on a 7-speed freehub. But that's not what I meant to say. I meant to say you could replace the _freehub body_. (I just noticed that my original post left of the word "body.") I have swapped 7 and 8/9 speed freehub bodies a few times. F'rexample: I had a 105 8 speed rear hub. I pulled the freehub body (which contains the freewheel mechanism) and replaced it with a 7-speed freehub body. I then needed to shorten the axle so the QR lever would work, and I needed to get the proper seal around the axle bearings in the freehub, but everything else was just fine. -- Dave dvt at psu dot edu |
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