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#1 |
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Provided all other things are equal (setback, etc.) to get to your ideal
reach lenght... would you prefer for example a 58cm top tube and a 130 stem or a 59cm top and 120 stem? Thanks |
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#2 |
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In article <jtqdnSP26_WathndRVn-uQ@aros.net>, none@u.biz says...
> Provided all other things are equal (setback, etc.) to get to your ideal > reach lenght... would you prefer for example a 58cm top tube and a 130 stem > or a 59cm top and 120 stem? Unfortunately, all other things cannot be equal. With identical seattube and headtube angles, the longer top tube will give the bike a longer wheelbase, affecting its handling characteristics, its ride smoothness, etc. If the longer top tube is on a bike with the same wheelbase, it will change the frame angles, again changing the handling and ride characteristics. So you have to play those characteristics off against each other as well. -- Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in the newsgroups if possible). |
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#3 |
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Bestest Handsander wrote:
> Provided all other things are equal (setback, etc.) to get to your ideal > reach lenght... would you prefer for example a 58cm top tube and a 130 stem > or a 59cm top and 120 stem? > > Thanks > > Well, there's not much difference in that example, but an 8cm stem on a 23" frame looks wrong, as does a 14cm stem on a 19" frame. If the top tube length is correct for you, you should be at the same end of the stem size range as the frame size range, if that makes any sense. |
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#4 |
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Someone who wished to conceal his or her secret identity wrote:
> Provided all other things are equal (setback, etc.) to get to your ideal > reach lenght... would you prefer for example a 58cm top tube and a 130 stem > or a 59cm top and 120 stem? If you have an oddball stem length, handling can suffer to some extent, due to the relationship between your hands and the steering axis. Weight distribution will also change, because the longer the top tube, the farther forward the front wheel is. If you're talking about a bike with drop handlebars, I'd consider 120 to be the upper limit for "normal" stems, and 130 to be a bit over the line into the "oddball" region, so I'd go for the longer top tube. If you're talking about a mountain bike, 130 is a fairly medium stem extension, but so is 120. Sheldon "Fitz" Brown +-------------------------------------------+ | Good judgment comes from experience, | | and experience comes from bad judgment. | | --Fred Brook | +-------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
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#5 |
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In article <jtqdnSP26_WathndRVn-uQ@aros.net>,
Bestest Handsander <none@u.biz> wrote: >Provided all other things are equal (setback, etc.) to get to your ideal >reach lenght... would you prefer for example a 58cm top tube and a 130 stem >or a 59cm top and 120 stem? On a road bike I'd take the latter. --Paul |
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#6 |
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"Bestest Handsander" <none@u.biz> wrote in message
news:jtqdnSP26_WathndRVn-uQ@aros.net... > Provided all other things are equal (setback, etc.) to get to your ideal > reach lenght... would you prefer for example a 58cm top tube and a 130 stem > or a 59cm top and 120 stem? Personally, I would take the 58+13 combo, as it would slow down the steering and put more weight on the front wheel. However, your preference could easily be different. Andy Coggan |
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#7 |
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cnhyf-1082347200@usenet.etext.org (Paul Southworth) wrote in message news:<u2Ygc.2869$WC3.25625@ord-read.news.verio.net>...
> In article <jtqdnSP26_WathndRVn-uQ@aros.net>, > Bestest Handsander <none@u.biz> wrote: > >Provided all other things are equal (setback, etc.) to get to your ideal > >reach lenght... would you prefer for example a 58cm top tube and a 130 stem > >or a 59cm top and 120 stem? > > On a road bike I'd take the latter. I second that. If you are in great shape and limber, then 59 and 13 cm. Even for smaller pro riders, I often see the use of 13 cm (and VERY low). |
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#8 |
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"Sheldon Brown" <captbike@sheldonbrown.com> wrote in message
news:40844049.3060703@sheldonbrown.com... > If you're talking about a bike with drop handlebars, I'd consider 120 to > be the upper limit for "normal" stems, and 130 to be a bit over the line > into the "oddball" region, so I'd go for the longer top tube. Scope out some pics of eurodog road racers...lots and lots and lots of 13+ cm stems used by this crowd. Andy Coggan |
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#9 |
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"Andy Coggan" <acoggan@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:7r0hc.3203$e4.1501@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > "Sheldon Brown" <captbike@sheldonbrown.com> wrote in message > news:40844049.3060703@sheldonbrown.com... > > > If you're talking about a bike with drop handlebars, I'd consider 120 to > > be the upper limit for "normal" stems, and 130 to be a bit over the line > > into the "oddball" region, so I'd go for the longer top tube. > > Scope out some pics of eurodog road racers...lots and lots and lots of 13+ > cm stems used by this crowd. > > Andy Coggan Yeah, but they're 18-20-somethings with 0% body fat too! Personal opinion says make the bike fit with between a 100-120mm stem. Anything less handling gets a little strange. Anything more, ditto. (Sez the guy what used to ride a 140mm stem on his 88 Rockhopper. Can you say "tiller?") HTH, M |
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#10 |
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If you draft a lot, long stem puts you closer to draftee. I personally like
the shorter stem to allow higher braking rates by reducing weight transfer to the front. High speed downhilling and late braking is one path to performance. Tom -- Bruni Bicycles "Where art meets science" brunibicycles.com 410.426.3420 Andy Coggan <acoggan@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:np0hc.3201$e4.1128@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > "Bestest Handsander" <none@u.biz> wrote in message > news:jtqdnSP26_WathndRVn-uQ@aros.net... > > Provided all other things are equal (setback, etc.) to get to your ideal > > reach lenght... would you prefer for example a 58cm top tube and a 130 > stem > > or a 59cm top and 120 stem? > > Personally, I would take the 58+13 combo, as it would slow down the steering > and put more weight on the front wheel. However, your preference could > easily be different. > > Andy Coggan > > |
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#11 |
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Bestest Handsander wrote:
> Provided all other things are equal (setback, etc.) to get to your ideal > reach lenght... would you prefer for example a 58cm top tube and a 130 stem > or a 59cm top and 120 stem? > > Thanks > > 130cm stem with 58cm toptube. Why? Because the steering axis is moved back 1cm closer. MOO, Matt |
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#12 |
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Sheldon Brown writes:
> If you're talking about a bike with drop handlebars, I'd consider 120 to > be the upper limit for "normal" stems, and 130 to be a bit over the line > into the "oddball" region, Why is this? John Verheul |
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#13 |
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This "conventional wisdom" went out the door with aluminum stems, where flex
was a bigger issue. Indeed, even in the late 80s and early 90s, it was hard to find stems more than 120mm in length, and even 120mm stems would flex wildly when sprinting in the drops. However, given the advent of steel stems, and then oversized threadless stems, flex is no longer a significant problem, and it is perfectly fine to use a longer stem. That being said, I certainly wouldn't advocate using a 130mm stem on a 51 cm bike. But there is nothing at all wrong with using a longer stem on a larger frame. Indeed, contrary to what some might suggest, a 130mm stem simply does not "oversteer" when installed on a 57, or 59cm frame. Even if it did, you'd soon get used to it and compensate accordingly. The main issue is bike fit and confort, and assuming your frame is properly sized, if that takes a 130cm stem, that's fine! "John Verheul" <jverheul@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:Poihc.4375$e4.2462@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > Sheldon Brown writes: > > If you're talking about a bike with drop handlebars, I'd consider 120 to > > be the upper limit for "normal" stems, and 130 to be a bit over the line > > into the "oddball" region, > > Why is this? > > John Verheul > > |
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#14 |
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Doug-<< This "conventional wisdom" went out the door with aluminum stems,
>><BR><BR> ???Holy pista Batman....most stems are aluminum, have been for years...hardly any steel stems...threaded or threadless....few, Salsa, few others. Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
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#15 |
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Think back . . . before threadless (granted, you porobably were nothing
more than a twinkle in your father's eye).. Everyone rode Cinelli or 3T, or Nitto, or some similar type of aluminum quill stem. These are far different from the aluminum threadless stems sold today "Qui si parla Campagnolo " <vecchio51@aol.com> wrote in message news:20040421085645.26979.00000055@mb-m12.aol.com... > Doug-<< This "conventional wisdom" went out the door with aluminum stems, > >><BR><BR> > > > ???Holy pista Batman....most stems are aluminum, have been for years...hardly > any steel stems...threaded or threadless....few, Salsa, few others. > > Peter Chisholm > Vecchio's Bicicletteria > 1833 Pearl St. > Boulder, CO, 80302 > (303)440-3535 > http://www.vecchios.com > "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
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