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#1 |
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Guest
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hi,
i just installed a SON hub using my previous lights - B&M Toplight rear with standlight, Union Halogen (~10yr old, nice beam, with zener, don't know what model - same as this one in Evans dynashoe illustration: http://www.evanscycles.com/product_images/S315L.jpg ) Bulb a bit old & darkened in front, so might get another. Is 3W or 2.4W best with that rear? I'm pretty sure the single LED doesn't use all the 0.6W of a standard rear, it isn't very bright (mine's a few years old, are new ones brighter?), but does the complete unit waste enough power to use 0.6W altogether? Or is power usage low enough for 3W at the front? Also, are the philips Blue Vision bulbs good? Good for conspicuity i'd imagine but if it's acheived by filtering then surely it means less light? cheers, rob. |
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#2 |
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Guest
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On 2005-01-17 12:53 +0000, google.10.robessee@spamgourmet.com wrote:
> > i just installed a SON hub using my previous lights - B&M Toplight rear > with standlight, Union Halogen (~10yr old, nice beam, with zener, don't > know what model - same as this one in Evans dynashoe illustration: > http://www.evanscycles.com/product_images/S315L.jpg ) > > Bulb a bit old & darkened in front, so might get another. Is 3W or 2.4W > best with that rear? I'm pretty sure the single LED doesn't use all the > 0.6W of a standard rear, it isn't very bright (mine's a few years old, > are new ones brighter?), but does the complete unit waste enough power > to use 0.6W altogether? Or is power usage low enough for 3W at the > front? I've just tried this out on a run to the shops using a similar setup[1] and it seems to me that a fresh 3W bulb was a little dimmer and yellower than an older 2.4W bulb. All the standlights and LEDs worked fine, but it seems that in my case at least whatever's in the rear light causes it to behave similarly to a 0.6W incandescent. That said, a 3W bulb still gives out enough light to get you home by, especially if you can safely disconnect the rear. If you use a 12V series setup with cutout, like me, you can probably get away with carrying just 3W spares on the road. I may give the 24 superbright(?) LEDs trick[2] described by a poster here a while back a go, as I have the shell of an old mudguard lamp around here somewhere. Would this too behave like a 0.6W incandescent bulb? [1] B&M Oval Standlight Plus, and a B&M 4-D LED rear light in parallel. [2] 12 one way, 12 the other. Might flicker a bit at low speeds, mind. -- Andrew Chadwick |
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#3 |
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Guest
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"Andrew Chadwick" <and-x-rewc@pi-y-ffle.org.z> wrote in message
news:slrncuo5qc.5ef.and-x-rewc@oolong.piffle.org... > I may give the 24 superbright(?) LEDs trick[2] described by a poster > here a while back a go, as I have the shell of an old mudguard lamp > around here somewhere. Would this too behave like a 0.6W incandescent > bulb? No, it doesn't - you run it in series, not parallel. Try it in parallel and it'll blow up very quickly! cheers, clive |
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#4 |
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Guest
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google.10.robessee@spamgourmet.com wrote:
> i just installed a SON hub using my previous lights - B&M Toplight rear > with standlight, If it's a B&M 4D toplight then you need a 2.4W front lamp - the Philips halogen one sold in the past by CTC shop was the best I found. If it's the old Toplight with fewer LEDs you can get away with a 3W front lamp. Again, the Philips works well for me. Guy -- "then came ye chavves, theyre cartes girded wyth candels blue, and theyre beastes wyth straynge horn-lyke thyngs onn theyre arses that theyre fartes be herde from myles around." Chaucer, the Sheppey Tales |
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#5 |
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Guest
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I measured the consumption of a B&M Seculite Plus (single led mudguard
mounting light) to be 35mA (0.2W) with a 6V dc supply. It does take a bit more initially while the standlight capacitor charges up. I use it with a 3W halogen with a Schmidt hub which seems OK for me. A 2.4W bulb will be brighter at the expense of bulb life. I suppose you might be able to use 2 rear led lights with a 2.4W front. Cheers, Robin |
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