![]() |
View
New Forum Topics Today's Forum Topics Set as homepage |
|
|||||||
| |
||||
Welcome to CyclingForums.com You are currently viewing our website as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions. You will have to register before you can post to this thread. By joining our free online community you will have access to post new topics, communicate privately with other cyclingforums.com members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos and access other special features like product reviews and classifieds. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Hi all - I'm ashamed to ask for help on this, but...
after reading about good puncture-resistant tyres for commuting, I decided to replace the maxxis default 23mm tyres on my Ridgeback Genesis Day 0 from a couple of years ago to some Schwalbe Marathon Pluses... I managed to find a 25mm pair of these and assumed (perhaps wrongly) that I could go from 23mm to 25mm on the same rims with no problems. I don't have the exact rim model no. to hand, but the current equivalent model has Alex RP-15 32h and I know that mine are also Alex, so am assuming they're the same or very similar. The maxxis "hors categorie" tyres that came off were a soft compound that was relatively easy to take on and off - the Schwalbes are a lot more rigid and look almost flattened when not on the rim (i.e. the inner diameter that should sit in the rim is splayed outwards). It takes quite a lot of force to squeeze them into shape - so much so, that when trying to fit them onto the rim, I can't get more than about 15cm's around before something pops out - quite often on the other side of the rim. Now, I may be no expert, but I've changed a variety of tyres over the years but never been stuck like this. I didn't think a 2mm difference in tyre size would cause me a problem - but I don't know what else to try - maybe another pair of hands might help, but that's not much use to me if I get a puncture on the way home one night! I even tried the tyre without the inner tube with no joy so the only thing I haven't tried is to use the inflation of the inner tube to try and make the tyre more into the correct shape to fit onto the rim (as I say, at the moment, it is very splayed out). I did partially inflate it when I first tried to put it on, but I thought that was just to avoid getting pinch flats. Perhaps I need to go a bit further, but then I'm not sure if I'd be able to push it over the rim. If anyone has any tips or experience with this rim / tyre combo, I'd be very grateful to hear from you!! mike |
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
On 18/1/05 4:28 pm, in article
efb1b97c.0501180828.5edad930@posting.google.com, "Webbo73" <webbo1973@hotmail.com> wrote: > The maxxis "hors categorie" tyres that came off were a soft compound > that was relatively easy to take on and off - the Schwalbes are a lot > more rigid and look almost flattened when not on the rim (i.e. the > inner diameter that should sit in the rim is splayed outwards). It > takes quite a lot of force to squeeze them into shape - so much so, > that when trying to fit them onto the rim, I can't get more than about > 15cm's around before something pops out - quite often on the other > side of the rim. Now, I may be no expert, but I've changed a variety > of tyres over the years but never been stuck like this. Sounds like you may be doing it wrong. 1. get the tyre over the rim so the rim is between the beads. 2. Take one side. push part over the rim and into place, then push a bit further so that the bead sits in the middle of the rim. 3. I use both hands, tyre side I'm trying to seat upwards and the bit I have just seated towards me. Fingers under the rim, thumbs on top. Nowe roll the bead onto the rim using your thumbs, starting from the bit that is already on. 4. The last part may require a tyre lever. 5. Turn the wheel over. 6. Inflate innner tube so it just holds its shape and place teh valve in the hole. Place teh rest of the inner tube insidethe tyre and then push the whole thing sideways so it sits over the rim, not to the side. 7. turn the wheel so the valve is next to you and seat the bit of tyre opposite the valve. 8. turn the wheel so the valve is next to you and continue as in 3 to seat the bead. The last bit could be tough so be careful to not pinch the tube. 9. Push the valve in to make sure it is above teh tyre bead, pull down and inflate to squidgy. 10. Work round the tyre, pushing the sidewall in to check the inner is not pinched. Do this both sides. 11. Inflate to working pressure and off you go.. Good luck. ...d |
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
On 18/1/05 4:28 pm, in article
efb1b97c.0501180828.5edad930@posting.google.com, "Webbo73" <webbo1973@hotmail.com> wrote: > The maxxis "hors categorie" tyres that came off were a soft compound > that was relatively easy to take on and off - the Schwalbes are a lot > more rigid and look almost flattened when not on the rim (i.e. the > inner diameter that should sit in the rim is splayed outwards). It > takes quite a lot of force to squeeze them into shape - so much so, > that when trying to fit them onto the rim, I can't get more than about > 15cm's around before something pops out - quite often on the other > side of the rim. Now, I may be no expert, but I've changed a variety > of tyres over the years but never been stuck like this. Sounds like you may be doing it wrong. 1. get the tyre over the rim so the rim is between the beads. 2. Take one side. push part over the rim and into place, then push a bit further so that the bead sits in the middle of the rim. 3. I use both hands, tyre side I'm trying to seat upwards and the bit I have just seated towards me. Fingers under the rim, thumbs on top. Nowe roll the bead onto the rim using your thumbs, starting from the bit that is already on. 4. The last part may require a tyre lever. 5. Turn the wheel over. 6. Inflate innner tube so it just holds its shape and place teh valve in the hole. Place teh rest of the inner tube insidethe tyre and then push the whole thing sideways so it sits over the rim, not to the side. 7. turn the wheel so the valve is next to you and seat the bit of tyre opposite the valve. 8. turn the wheel so the valve is next to you and continue as in 3 to seat the bead. The last bit could be tough so be careful to not pinch the tube. 9. Push the valve in to make sure it is above teh tyre bead, pull down and inflate to squidgy. 10. Work round the tyre, pushing the sidewall in to check the inner is not pinched. Do this both sides. 11. Inflate to working pressure and off you go.. Good luck. ...d |
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
On 18/1/05 4:28 pm, in article
efb1b97c.0501180828.5edad930@posting.google.com, "Webbo73" <webbo1973@hotmail.com> wrote: > The maxxis "hors categorie" tyres that came off were a soft compound > that was relatively easy to take on and off - the Schwalbes are a lot > more rigid and look almost flattened when not on the rim (i.e. the > inner diameter that should sit in the rim is splayed outwards). It > takes quite a lot of force to squeeze them into shape - so much so, > that when trying to fit them onto the rim, I can't get more than about > 15cm's around before something pops out - quite often on the other > side of the rim. Now, I may be no expert, but I've changed a variety > of tyres over the years but never been stuck like this. Sounds like you may be doing it wrong. 1. get the tyre over the rim so the rim is between the beads. 2. Take one side. push part over the rim and into place, then push a bit further so that the bead sits in the middle of the rim. 3. I use both hands, tyre side I'm trying to seat upwards and the bit I have just seated towards me. Fingers under the rim, thumbs on top. Nowe roll the bead onto the rim using your thumbs, starting from the bit that is already on. 4. The last part may require a tyre lever. 5. Turn the wheel over. 6. Inflate innner tube so it just holds its shape and place teh valve in the hole. Place teh rest of the inner tube insidethe tyre and then push the whole thing sideways so it sits over the rim, not to the side. 7. turn the wheel so the valve is next to you and seat the bit of tyre opposite the valve. 8. turn the wheel so the valve is next to you and continue as in 3 to seat the bead. The last bit could be tough so be careful to not pinch the tube. 9. Push the valve in to make sure it is above teh tyre bead, pull down and inflate to squidgy. 10. Work round the tyre, pushing the sidewall in to check the inner is not pinched. Do this both sides. 11. Inflate to working pressure and off you go.. Good luck. ...d |
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
On 18/1/05 4:28 pm, in article
efb1b97c.0501180828.5edad930@posting.google.com, "Webbo73" <webbo1973@hotmail.com> wrote: > The maxxis "hors categorie" tyres that came off were a soft compound > that was relatively easy to take on and off - the Schwalbes are a lot > more rigid and look almost flattened when not on the rim (i.e. the > inner diameter that should sit in the rim is splayed outwards). It > takes quite a lot of force to squeeze them into shape - so much so, > that when trying to fit them onto the rim, I can't get more than about > 15cm's around before something pops out - quite often on the other > side of the rim. Now, I may be no expert, but I've changed a variety > of tyres over the years but never been stuck like this. Sounds like you may be doing it wrong. 1. get the tyre over the rim so the rim is between the beads. 2. Take one side. push part over the rim and into place, then push a bit further so that the bead sits in the middle of the rim. 3. I use both hands, tyre side I'm trying to seat upwards and the bit I have just seated towards me. Fingers under the rim, thumbs on top. Nowe roll the bead onto the rim using your thumbs, starting from the bit that is already on. 4. The last part may require a tyre lever. 5. Turn the wheel over. 6. Inflate innner tube so it just holds its shape and place teh valve in the hole. Place teh rest of the inner tube insidethe tyre and then push the whole thing sideways so it sits over the rim, not to the side. 7. turn the wheel so the valve is next to you and seat the bit of tyre opposite the valve. 8. turn the wheel so the valve is next to you and continue as in 3 to seat the bead. The last bit could be tough so be careful to not pinch the tube. 9. Push the valve in to make sure it is above teh tyre bead, pull down and inflate to squidgy. 10. Work round the tyre, pushing the sidewall in to check the inner is not pinched. Do this both sides. 11. Inflate to working pressure and off you go.. Good luck. ...d |
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
On 18/1/05 4:28 pm, in article
efb1b97c.0501180828.5edad930@posting.google.com, "Webbo73" <webbo1973@hotmail.com> wrote: > The maxxis "hors categorie" tyres that came off were a soft compound > that was relatively easy to take on and off - the Schwalbes are a lot > more rigid and look almost flattened when not on the rim (i.e. the > inner diameter that should sit in the rim is splayed outwards). It > takes quite a lot of force to squeeze them into shape - so much so, > that when trying to fit them onto the rim, I can't get more than about > 15cm's around before something pops out - quite often on the other > side of the rim. Now, I may be no expert, but I've changed a variety > of tyres over the years but never been stuck like this. Sounds like you may be doing it wrong. 1. get the tyre over the rim so the rim is between the beads. 2. Take one side. push part over the rim and into place, then push a bit further so that the bead sits in the middle of the rim. 3. I use both hands, tyre side I'm trying to seat upwards and the bit I have just seated towards me. Fingers under the rim, thumbs on top. Nowe roll the bead onto the rim using your thumbs, starting from the bit that is already on. 4. The last part may require a tyre lever. 5. Turn the wheel over. 6. Inflate innner tube so it just holds its shape and place teh valve in the hole. Place teh rest of the inner tube insidethe tyre and then push the whole thing sideways so it sits over the rim, not to the side. 7. turn the wheel so the valve is next to you and seat the bit of tyre opposite the valve. 8. turn the wheel so the valve is next to you and continue as in 3 to seat the bead. The last bit could be tough so be careful to not pinch the tube. 9. Push the valve in to make sure it is above teh tyre bead, pull down and inflate to squidgy. 10. Work round the tyre, pushing the sidewall in to check the inner is not pinched. Do this both sides. 11. Inflate to working pressure and off you go.. Good luck. ...d |
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Webbo73 wrote:
> after reading about good puncture-resistant tyres for commuting, I > decided to replace the maxxis default 23mm tyres on my Ridgeback > Genesis Day 0 from a couple of years ago to some Schwalbe Marathon > Pluses... I managed to find a 25mm pair of these and assumed (perhaps > wrongly) that I could go from 23mm to 25mm on the same rims with no > problems. /snip I would expect to be able to fit a 25mm tyre on any rim that takes a 23. Some tyres are simply more difficult to fit, regardless of width (though wider ones tend to be easier in general). Double-check it's a 700c. Fit one bead so that it sits in the middle of the rim well, then force the other on, with levers if necessary. Assuming you mean the tyre seems too tight (I'm not quite sure what you mean), to get round the bead-popping-off problem, push each "end" of the bead with your thumbs simultaneously, or thumb one end and tyre lever the other. Push hard!! If it really is a murderous job still, cut your losses and try a different make of tyre altogether. In case I've misunderstood and the tyre is too *loose* a fit, try fitting with inner tube inflated more, and just keep repeating until it "takes". Again, work on the two ends at the same time. ~PB |
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Webbo73 wrote:
> after reading about good puncture-resistant tyres for commuting, I > decided to replace the maxxis default 23mm tyres on my Ridgeback > Genesis Day 0 from a couple of years ago to some Schwalbe Marathon > Pluses... I managed to find a 25mm pair of these and assumed (perhaps > wrongly) that I could go from 23mm to 25mm on the same rims with no > problems. /snip I would expect to be able to fit a 25mm tyre on any rim that takes a 23. Some tyres are simply more difficult to fit, regardless of width (though wider ones tend to be easier in general). Double-check it's a 700c. Fit one bead so that it sits in the middle of the rim well, then force the other on, with levers if necessary. Assuming you mean the tyre seems too tight (I'm not quite sure what you mean), to get round the bead-popping-off problem, push each "end" of the bead with your thumbs simultaneously, or thumb one end and tyre lever the other. Push hard!! If it really is a murderous job still, cut your losses and try a different make of tyre altogether. In case I've misunderstood and the tyre is too *loose* a fit, try fitting with inner tube inflated more, and just keep repeating until it "takes". Again, work on the two ends at the same time. ~PB |
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Webbo73 wrote:
> after reading about good puncture-resistant tyres for commuting, I > decided to replace the maxxis default 23mm tyres on my Ridgeback > Genesis Day 0 from a couple of years ago to some Schwalbe Marathon > Pluses... I managed to find a 25mm pair of these and assumed (perhaps > wrongly) that I could go from 23mm to 25mm on the same rims with no > problems. /snip I would expect to be able to fit a 25mm tyre on any rim that takes a 23. Some tyres are simply more difficult to fit, regardless of width (though wider ones tend to be easier in general). Double-check it's a 700c. Fit one bead so that it sits in the middle of the rim well, then force the other on, with levers if necessary. Assuming you mean the tyre seems too tight (I'm not quite sure what you mean), to get round the bead-popping-off problem, push each "end" of the bead with your thumbs simultaneously, or thumb one end and tyre lever the other. Push hard!! If it really is a murderous job still, cut your losses and try a different make of tyre altogether. In case I've misunderstood and the tyre is too *loose* a fit, try fitting with inner tube inflated more, and just keep repeating until it "takes". Again, work on the two ends at the same time. ~PB |
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Webbo73 wrote:
> after reading about good puncture-resistant tyres for commuting, I > decided to replace the maxxis default 23mm tyres on my Ridgeback > Genesis Day 0 from a couple of years ago to some Schwalbe Marathon > Pluses... I managed to find a 25mm pair of these and assumed (perhaps > wrongly) that I could go from 23mm to 25mm on the same rims with no > problems. /snip I would expect to be able to fit a 25mm tyre on any rim that takes a 23. Some tyres are simply more difficult to fit, regardless of width (though wider ones tend to be easier in general). Double-check it's a 700c. Fit one bead so that it sits in the middle of the rim well, then force the other on, with levers if necessary. Assuming you mean the tyre seems too tight (I'm not quite sure what you mean), to get round the bead-popping-off problem, push each "end" of the bead with your thumbs simultaneously, or thumb one end and tyre lever the other. Push hard!! If it really is a murderous job still, cut your losses and try a different make of tyre altogether. In case I've misunderstood and the tyre is too *loose* a fit, try fitting with inner tube inflated more, and just keep repeating until it "takes". Again, work on the two ends at the same time. ~PB |
|
|
|
#11 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Webbo73 wrote:
> after reading about good puncture-resistant tyres for commuting, I > decided to replace the maxxis default 23mm tyres on my Ridgeback > Genesis Day 0 from a couple of years ago to some Schwalbe Marathon > Pluses... I managed to find a 25mm pair of these and assumed (perhaps > wrongly) that I could go from 23mm to 25mm on the same rims with no > problems. /snip I would expect to be able to fit a 25mm tyre on any rim that takes a 23. Some tyres are simply more difficult to fit, regardless of width (though wider ones tend to be easier in general). Double-check it's a 700c. Fit one bead so that it sits in the middle of the rim well, then force the other on, with levers if necessary. Assuming you mean the tyre seems too tight (I'm not quite sure what you mean), to get round the bead-popping-off problem, push each "end" of the bead with your thumbs simultaneously, or thumb one end and tyre lever the other. Push hard!! If it really is a murderous job still, cut your losses and try a different make of tyre altogether. In case I've misunderstood and the tyre is too *loose* a fit, try fitting with inner tube inflated more, and just keep repeating until it "takes". Again, work on the two ends at the same time. ~PB |
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Webbo73 wrote:
> > Hi all - I'm ashamed to ask for help on this, but... > > after reading about good puncture-resistant tyres for commuting, I > decided to replace the maxxis default 23mm tyres on my Ridgeback > Genesis Day 0 from a couple of years ago to some Schwalbe Marathon > Pluses... I managed to find a 25mm pair of these and assumed (perhaps > wrongly) that I could go from 23mm to 25mm on the same rims with no > problems. > > I don't have the exact rim model no. to hand, but the current > equivalent model has Alex RP-15 32h and I know that mine are also > Alex, so am assuming they're the same or very similar. > > The maxxis "hors categorie" tyres that came off were a soft compound > that was relatively easy to take on and off - the Schwalbes are a lot > more rigid and look almost flattened when not on the rim (i.e. the > inner diameter that should sit in the rim is splayed outwards). It > takes quite a lot of force to squeeze them into shape - so much so, > that when trying to fit them onto the rim, I can't get more than about > 15cm's around before something pops out - quite often on the other > side of the rim. Now, I may be no expert, but I've changed a variety > of tyres over the years but never been stuck like this. > > I didn't think a 2mm difference in tyre size would cause me a problem > - but I don't know what else to try - maybe another pair of hands > might help, but that's not much use to me if I get a puncture on the > way home one night! I even tried the tyre without the inner tube with > no joy so the only thing I haven't tried is to use the inflation of > the inner tube to try and make the tyre more into the correct shape to > fit onto the rim (as I say, at the moment, it is very splayed out). I > did partially inflate it when I first tried to put it on, but I > thought that was just to avoid getting pinch flats. Perhaps I need to > go a bit further, but then I'm not sure if I'd be able to push it over > the rim. > > If anyone has any tips or experience with this rim / tyre combo, I'd > be very grateful to hear from you!! > > mike I've fitted 28's to ma2 rims, but they are not easy to fit. Problem is the beads get sprung apart by the thick rubber underneath the thread. I think they get easier when the tyres get older and take a set. To get the second bead seated, you have to keep tension on the bead at all times, to prevent it popping out. Clamp the wheel horizontal between your body and the workbench, and starting at the bottom work your way up symmetrically. It's a bit like fitting a tubular. -- --- Marten Gerritsen INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL www.m-gineering.nl |
|
|
|
#13 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Thanks guys for all the suggestions - I will print out and give it a try!!
"m-gineering" <ikmotgeenspam@m-gineeringpunt.ennel.nl> wrote in message news:41ED4A02.5586B87B@m-gineeringpunt.ennel.nl... > Webbo73 wrote: >> >> Hi all - I'm ashamed to ask for help on this, but... >> >> after reading about good puncture-resistant tyres for commuting, I >> decided to replace the maxxis default 23mm tyres on my Ridgeback >> Genesis Day 0 from a couple of years ago to some Schwalbe Marathon >> Pluses... I managed to find a 25mm pair of these and assumed (perhaps >> wrongly) that I could go from 23mm to 25mm on the same rims with no >> problems. >> >> I don't have the exact rim model no. to hand, but the current >> equivalent model has Alex RP-15 32h and I know that mine are also >> Alex, so am assuming they're the same or very similar. >> >> The maxxis "hors categorie" tyres that came off were a soft compound >> that was relatively easy to take on and off - the Schwalbes are a lot >> more rigid and look almost flattened when not on the rim (i.e. the >> inner diameter that should sit in the rim is splayed outwards). It >> takes quite a lot of force to squeeze them into shape - so much so, >> that when trying to fit them onto the rim, I can't get more than about >> 15cm's around before something pops out - quite often on the other >> side of the rim. Now, I may be no expert, but I've changed a variety >> of tyres over the years but never been stuck like this. >> >> I didn't think a 2mm difference in tyre size would cause me a problem >> - but I don't know what else to try - maybe another pair of hands >> might help, but that's not much use to me if I get a puncture on the >> way home one night! I even tried the tyre without the inner tube with >> no joy so the only thing I haven't tried is to use the inflation of >> the inner tube to try and make the tyre more into the correct shape to >> fit onto the rim (as I say, at the moment, it is very splayed out). I >> did partially inflate it when I first tried to put it on, but I >> thought that was just to avoid getting pinch flats. Perhaps I need to >> go a bit further, but then I'm not sure if I'd be able to push it over >> the rim. >> >> If anyone has any tips or experience with this rim / tyre combo, I'd >> be very grateful to hear from you!! >> >> mike > > > I've fitted 28's to ma2 rims, but they are not easy to fit. Problem is > the beads get sprung apart by the thick rubber underneath the thread. I > think they get easier when the tyres get older and take a set. To get > the second bead seated, you have to keep tension on the bead at all > times, to prevent it popping out. Clamp the wheel horizontal between > your body and the workbench, and starting at the bottom work your way up > symmetrically. It's a bit like fitting a tubular. > -- > --- > Marten Gerritsen > > INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL > www.m-gineering.nl |
|