![]() |
View
New Forum Topics Today's Forum Topics Set as homepage |
|
|||||||
Welcome to CyclingForums.com You are currently viewing our website as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions. You will have to register before you can post to this thread. By joining our free online community you will have access to post new topics, communicate privately with other cyclingforums.com members (PM), respond to polls, upload photos and access other special features like product reviews and classifieds. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1
|
Hello,
I'm after some advice on locks....after recently becoming a victim of bike theft (and looking at every single bike around thinking it could, just could, be mine) I've now moved on a bought a new bike. OK, it's only a cheap bike (£100) but, living in a high crime area, I don't want to get another bike nicked so I'm willing to spend about £50 on locks. Right, from what I know I think it's best to have 2 different types on lock - one D-lock and one cable lock. I'm thinking of getting the Abus Granit Plus 51 (found for about £40) and then spending about ten pounds on a cable lock. But...is a cable lock worth £10 actually worth getting? Or would it be better to spend £50 on a D-lock - or £30 on a D-lock and £20 on a cable? Whatchareckon? Any help appreciated! (Also...I'm going to paint my new bike a hopefully unattractive shade of black/brown/luminous pink....hehheh ) |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 10
|
If in doubt, buy the better quality locks, even if they cost nearly as much as the bike. Just a false economy to buy cheaper locks!
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 153
|
Sorry to hear about your bike getting stolen. My humble advice as a carless cyclist who'd be mighty pissed at having their bike stolen would be to get a damned good D-lock (um, U-lock depending on which side of the pond you're on, I guess?) and a good, solid cable (not a cable lock). My guess is that the lock part of most cable locks is the weakest point.
At the risk of insulting a seasoned commuter with a novice question, may I ask how you had locked up your recently stolen bike? What kind(s) of lock through what bike parts and to what? My question is motivated by the tons and tons of nice bikes I see around here locked in ways that might tempt a thief. If your area is similar, the name of the game is to make your bike look harder to steal than those unfortunate folks' rides. Hope some good bike karma comes your way... |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 153
|
Another issue...
My advice is to get the smallest D-lock that you think will accommodate whatever you normally lock to. The idea is to fill as much of the D as possible with your bike and the post, rack, or whatever sturdy, stationary object you find. This will make it difficult to fit a jack in there to bust the lock. I use a mini D-lock and a cable as advised by bike guru Sheldon Brown: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html If you have a regular destination, consider investing in a lock you can leave attached to the rack/post there, so you don't have to lug it around on your regular commute. |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 44
|
Quote:
any type lock seems to work well. most bike are stolen due to no lock at all. its not worth the trouble to cut a cable or chain to get a 300 dollar bike. now a 4 or 5000 dollar bike would never leave my sight. |
|
|
|
|