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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northwest Arkansas
Posts: 5
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I know that racing on triple is generally frowned on. But I thought that I might equip the bike that I own now to do some short duos this coming spring. Short meaning 2 mile run- 11 mile bike and such. I only use the Trek bike that I own to do charity fun rides and cross training a few days a week. I really hate to buy a properly equipped time trial bike or something similar.
How about it guys? |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Perth (Basso), West Australia
Posts: 3,515
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Use the triple. My new TRY-bike has a triple! (and a suspension seat post)
The only problem is you will get abused by the double riders when you cruise past them on the hills, seated and relaxed, while they are pumping the lactic acid into their legs.
__________________
Cheers, George. |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I road race with a triple and I live in one of the flattest areas of the country.
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5
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Race on whatever you have - it's all in your legs. The triple won't make much difference either way.
A friend of mine riding a bike that he got used with a triple went from Cat 4 to Cat 2 this year. He's talking about changing to a double over the winter. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 4,115
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It's really not about double vs. triple. It's about cadence. You want a drivetrain that allows you to ride within your preferred cadence range at the speeds you are going to be riding. And, the speeds are a function of the courses (grades) and conditions (wind). I recently changed my drivetrain to a 34/50-13/29 for a 17.5 mile hillclimb TT and have decided to leave it on for my training rides. The reason is that I have more gear options for low speeds (e.g., <10mph) with this drivetrain and I don't mind getting into pretty high revs on downhills in my 50/13. I personally like to avoid changing my chainring (because I have to back off momentarily), so I prefer a double. But, it's really about finding a drivetrain that allows you to ride at your preferred cadences. Forget about what others are riding. You're riding against the clock. Bragging rights come with low times, not equipment.
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
You'll look like much more of a tool showing up at a local duathalon with a full on TT bike than you will with a tripple chain ring. Ride the gearing that works for you, and if someone else doesn't like it it's their problem not yours. The money is much better spent on a decent set of clip-on aero bars. |
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#7 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 47
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Quote:
Gotta agree. Aerobars will make more difference than anything else. Unless it gets mad steep, you shouldn't need that triple. Assuming it's a 52-42-30, you'll lose an exremely marginal amount of high end speed, and climbing will be a bit tougher in th 42t ring. But that 30, unless you get above 20% grade most likely will not be useful. The gearing is just too low. |
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#8 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Unless there's an extended downhill section on the course, the high end penalty shouldn't be too bad. I would pre-ride the course at about the pace you plan on racing it. If you find yourself using the 30 on any of the climbs, swap your 42 out for a 39. You don't want to be shifting rings any more than you have to. That will give you a pseudo-double for a lot less money than replacing the whole crank set/bb. Also, find out what your club's policy on drafting is and how strictly it's enforced. This can have a big impact on your gearing selection. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northwest Arkansas
Posts: 5
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Guys, I really appreciate the advice. Thanks for replying.
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