Converting MT into Roadbike??

gquinn

I have a Haro V-1 that I road in the desert all the time. After awhile I found that I loved to ride it on the streets and to work! I just had it sent to the bike shop to change my knobby tires to 80 psi 26X1.5 slicks. I also am upgrading the rims, derailer, and changing the crank to a larger one to pedal faster. I decided to do this instead of getting a roas bike because I like the front shock absorbtion and I can jump up on the sidewalk(on-off curbs) when I feel traffic is getting a little dangerous! I have never had a road bike or slick tires! Not sure what to expect when I get my bike back???????

gclark8

Expect? Lots of fun!!

My most fun bike was a Merida MTB with Conti Sport Contact 26x1.3 90psi slicks! Spent heaps on it, 8 speed shifters, new wheels, road cassette, Alivio RD, flat bars, sus seat post... CrMo forks... then I sold it to a girl to do Triathlons!

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gquinn

How much of a difference do slicks really make? I would get tired trying to pedal on knobby tires especially because the tires were often underinflated as I used them to do some MT biking on some really rocky trails? I found that I really enjoy riding on the street at night at high speeds! Makes me feel good and like I did when I was a kid on my BMX!

I talked to a avid cycler who told me that if I really want to fly that I should buy a road bike, but I have never ridden one and don't know how fast they really are?

Thanks for any input

1id10t

Putting slicks on your bike will make a world of difference. I'm currently running GEAX 1.25 Roadsters on one MTB and Maxxis 1.75 Overdrives on another. Both have made a big difference to the wider knobbies I had on it when I first started commuting.
A road bike would definitely be faster but I guess you have to work out what's best for you. Just remember, bunny-hopping sidewalks is probably not a good idea on a road bike. I'm currently going through the process of looking for an alternative to my MTB (ie road bike or flat bar road bike) as my commute is going to be longer (going from approx 6km to almost 20km). If it's a short commute stick with the MTB. If you don't like the look of skinny tyres try a pair of GEAX Evolutions. They're 1.9 which is pretty wide but it still makes your MTB look like an MTB. They won't roll as fast as the skinny tyres but they're pretty fast for what they are.

gary.ray

Switching from knobbies to 80 psi slicks on my old MtnTek a few years ago cut about 10 minutes off of my 13 mile commute. Buying my road bike a year later cut another 5-8, but that is a different story...

The two best recommendations I would have are 1) Slicks, and 2) Clipless pedals and shoes. Beyond that I think you would need to consider the more tucked possition on a road bike to see any real efficiency gains.

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Traffic Jammer

slicks clipless and a front shock...you gonna love it.
If you are really feeling the need for speed get a road bike, or a cross bike with a 2nd set of wheels for the dirt. That's what I'm saving up for.

BTW roadbike = wicked white knuckle holy shit fast, with the right engine of course

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randog

I recently did the same thing to my mtn bike, which I use to commute to work. you are going to really notice a difference. much more fun and faster.

LioNiNoiL

I have commuted on a MTB with slicks for a number of years, and it has the advantages of more comfort and sturdiness than a standard road/touring bike, especially on the badly-maintained urban roads I have ridden.

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wALDOsLACK

If your setting your MTB up for Road only, you might want to consider changing the gears in the back to something closer to a straight block. 3-4 tooth jumps are too much, Unless you like that sort of thing.

We get people showing up all the time for road rides on thier converted MTB's. They just don't have the gearing to keep up unless it's modified.

Last year a local MTB pro showed up for one of our 60 miler road group rides, Knobbies & all.... He pulled most the day & dropped alot of the group. Now that was impressive. Talk about a handicap & he still killed us...

Suspension can be troublesome as well. Ever tried to do a sprint on a full suspension MTB? Too much lost energy unless you can lock your rear shock & make it rigid. Roadies don't loose that energy & it translates to more speed on the bike.

LioNiNoiL

A number of studies done decades ago showed this myth that "roadies don't loose [sic] that energy" is just not true. They in fact do *lose* that energy, and then some. Prove it for yourself: pick an uneven offroad uphill course, and time yourself climbing it on a road [or cyclocross] bike, then on a fully-suspended MTB. Offroad racers don't carry the extra weight, and pay the extra freight, for full suspension just for the Hell of it. FS works on uneven terrain, and for good reason. Roadies don't need it because the roads upon which they race are relatively smooth, not like the urban jungle through which we commuters have to ride. Repeat after me: "I am not a road-racer. I am an urban jungle commuter." You'll catch on, after a few dozen commutes.

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gclark8

A little experiment, if you have some old bathroom scales (not digital) and a mag/wind trainer, put the scales under the front wheel and see just how much energy you waste on pushing the wheel up and down, a definite case for rigid forks and back ends.

This is a good way to compare the effeciency of cleats, toe clips and bare pedals. Try to keep the needle steady..

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George.

GeekCyclist

So by this logic, all the riders in the spring classics that traverse huge sections of cobbles would be better on a full sus mtn bike?? That must be why all the bike messengers I see ride mountain bikes rather than road or track bikes...

I commuted for years on a rigid fork hardtail with 85 psi slicks. I ride through the industrial area of Salt Lake City, past wrecking yards with roads in front that would make a radial laced wheel buckle in an instant under my 200 + lbs. But even if I slow down for the rough road I am still much faster anyone I have encountered on a full sus bike.

I can understand wanting to have a suspension fork for the occasional hole or bunny hop, but for me it makes more sense to ride my road (touring) bike on my daily commute. I have yet to see a road bike ad that said it was only for riding on smooth roads.

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AKTed

Well, like everyone else says, the slicks will make a big difference. I put Ritchey Tom Slicks (1.4") on my hardtail last year for commuting and it made a big difference. I also found myself locking out the fork anytime I wanted to stand up and pedal. The yo-yo-ing sucks up a lot of energy in my opinion. But the suspension does smooth the ride otherwise, even on pavement.

I've just (finally) got a road bike and I'm still a bit amazed at how different (and fast) it feels compared to the hardtail (even with the slicks). Sure it weighs a bit less than hardtail, but I'm not quite sure what it is that makes it feel so much more quick and responsive!

Ike90

I absolutely agree about slicks. Since I live in rainy Seattle, I use a wet pavement tread pattern rather than a slick, but slicks would be the way to go in a dry climate.

Clipless pedals and shoes are a complete fraud, and a waste of money. I know plenty of people disagree, but I think old-fashioned toe clips or PowerGrips are every bit as efficient, much less expensive, and offer much more flexibility in footwear options. But then, I don't wear those silly padded lycra pants, either.