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11-09.-2006, 11:04 AM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 2
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road bike to fixed gear
i have an old roadmaster road bike and its a girl's. im going to buy a new frame for it. i have all the parts off the bike and i was wondering what parts i need.
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11-09.-2006, 11:31 AM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 18
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Re: road bike to fixed gear
rear wheel with a fixed gear hub.
crank. chain. lockring. cog of ure choosing. thats pretty much it right guys? do you need ALL the parts for building the bike? |
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13-09.-2006, 12:05 AM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: wilmington, de
Posts: 15
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Re: road bike to fixed gear
keep in mind someof your old parts may not match the "new" frame you're getting...stem sizing, one-piece bottom bracket or three-piece, seat post sizing (although beer can shims for these seem to be all the rage...).
you'll need ALL the parts minus any that don't fit and the brakes/cables/derailer/levers, you can shorten the chain and maybe reuse the cranks. it would help to have a little more information here eh? do you want a fixed gear or single speed freewheel? what kind of frame are you getting? how much to you want to spend? jenkins has the right idea for fixed (any word from bianchi on that new wheel?) |
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13-09.-2006, 05:33 AM
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#4 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 18
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Re: road bike to fixed gear
Quote:
on the verge of the fourth week here and they just got in touch with me. they are going to be shipping me a new wheel within the week, im rather estatic! hes right about the peices. give us a better understanding of what type of bike you want to build, and what type of parts you already have to use and we can help you more. |
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22-09.-2006, 01:17 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 8
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Re: road bike to fixed gear
chainline is an important factor to keep in mind. much more important on fixed than geared. you'll want to check that the bottom bracket, cranks, chainring, frame, rear hub/cog and chain all work together to create a chainline that wont drop chain. the better you get the chainline (more straight) the less noise your bike will make.
also the cranks should be no longer than 170mm (preferably 165mm) to avoid pedal strike on turns, a conversion usually has a lower bottom bracket than a bike designed for fixed gear riding, because on a bike with a freewheel, you can position your feet to avoid the ground when in turns. on a fixed gear, your feet/pedals will be arbitrary, and could hit the ground (bad) while you're leaning into a turn. a lower bottom bracket or longer cranks, increase the chance of your pedals/feet being low enough to hit the ground in a turn. I hope this is the kind of stuff you were asking for and that it all makes sense |
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29-09.-2006, 08:08 AM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 2
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Re: road bike to fixed gear
alright, i've been working on my bike and i am at a singlespeed without brakes. i'm trying to go to a fixie. i heard i could use a certain type of glue that holds metal together on my freewheel (taking the freewheel off, not glueing it to the wheelof course). i was wondering if i could take my casette off and use one of the chainrings from it. i know i also need spacers between the wheel and frame. i could do all of this, correct?
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02-10.-2006, 03:41 AM
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: wilmington, de
Posts: 15
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Re: road bike to fixed gear
if you want to use "glue" at the very least you'll need to get a track cog to thread on, i don't think you'll be able to glue the freewheel mechanism or get one of the cogs to hold when you resist against the pedals. had a friend who used locktite, then JB weld when the locktite broke free, on a bmx hub. eventually the JB weld broke too, end result: wasted hub.
Anyone else had success (or stories, haha) with loctite/JB weld type stuff? |
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