New bike advice, please... commuting/town + inter-city

rock_ten

Hey dudes, I need to get a new bike soon, maybe I can get some advice here.

Firstly my background and situation:
I'm a male university student, currently living in York, England (a good cycling city). I used to ride my bikes lots when I was younger and then didn't for about 8 years until I came to York. I got a £20 second-hand Raleigh Pioneer which I've had for about 13 months now. During this time its condition has deteriorated considerably and now has a long list of serious problems. By the way, I may not be using accepted terminology here, sorry:

> A hole in the frame at the back where the tyre wore through it
> at least 3 broken spokes at the back
> only about 1/2 the gears are accessable
> only the back brakes work and very very badly (adjusting them only lasts ~10 mins before they're gone again)
> the chain skips if I apply any real force to the pedals
> the pedal axle is very loose but the bottom bracket is jammed
> oh and no mudguards or rack, which I'd like to have

etc etc
I have made repairs as best I can, many times, but it feels like its over the edge and would need a complete overhaul to get it working, and I just don't have the means to do that.

Now, I mostly have used it for riding around town, maybe 20 miles a week at most. A few times longer rides into the the countryside, which I'd very much like to be able to do more but its rather unpleasant on this bike.
Also, and this is important, I'd like to be able to ride between cities, say ~100 mile journeys. Very infrequently, but I'd like to be able to do that with my bike. I was hoping to make a trip from York to Birmingham in about 4-5 weeks time, in fact. That's probably pushing 150 miles, I'm not sure. Its connected continuously by the National Cycle Network, though.
Since I originally wrote that, about York-->Birmingham, I've come to the unfortunate conclusion that it will probably be impossible. Its a lot further than I thought, although I will try to devise my own shorter route, perhaps.

I'm very attached to this bike, and like that I can use a 99p necklace-like chain to lock it up... but I need to face reality and think about getting a new bike. I'm sure the enjoyment I'll get from having a good machine will be worth it, and I'll soon become attached to the new one just the same, haha.

Ok, if you're still with me now then thanks! I'd like to ideally spend around £200, £250 max. That's about $4-500 which probably isn't a lot but I'm not a demanding bike owner so I think it should be fine. Perhaps only UK people can help here, knowing the available models, but basically I have a few local bike shops. Here are their products:

http://www.yorkcycleworks.com/produ...?plid=m1b0s18p0 <--- "hybrid and trekking"
http://www.yorkcycleworks.com/produ...plid=m1b0s191p0 <--- "commuting"

http://www.biketrax.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b0s18p669 <--- not from the shop in the link, but its sold here in one of the shops

And then all sorts from, you guessed it, Halfords...
e.g.
One
Two
Three
Four
Five
Six

Out of those, the Trek T30 and the Raleigh Pioneer Metro are probably my best options, since they have a rack and mudguards already. I haven't tested any of the bikes yet, and I'm not sure to what extent I will be allowed to. Is it normal for shops to allow prospective customers to test-ride their bikes?

And also there exists a "bike rescue" operation here, where old bikes are done up and restored to, probably, a very good standard and then sold. But they don't go cheap, really, and you never know what kind of bikes they have ready.

:/ I'm very shit at making decisions, and my prediction is that I won't get another bike until the back wheel on my current one collapses and I have to walk everywhere. That might not be too long, though.

I realise that my daily use vs. occasional long rides, is going to demand quite a compromise on the type of bike. But I've never ridden any "good" bike so I won't feel like I'm missing out.

I'll leave it at that for now, and see what kind of replies I get..

Thanks dudes

--Joe

Adam-from-SLO

Joe,
My advise would be to go to those bike shops(or simply your local bike shop), and take the bikes in your price range for test rides. Ask a bunch of questions! MAKE SURE the frame size FITS YOU (this is probably the MOST important facet of info here) !!!!!!! Do your best to at least get middle of the road- quality components(ie. shifters/derailiers/etc.). Lastly, see if the bike shop is willing to give you a loner bike seat/saddle... so you can try it out for a few days. Then, keep on trying out new saddles = until you have come to find one that fits/most comfortable = if it costs a little bit more then what your wanting to spend... its worth it. Next to the frame being the proper size for you, your saddles comfort/shape is right up there as being SUPER important in finding the one that works best for you!
Good luck.

__________________
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*"Good people try to help others with their knowledge rather than beating them on the head because they are ignorant." -Insight Driver

rock_ten

Thanks for the reply, dude. I actually got a bike yesterday. I'd been to lots of bike shops and tried several bikes, but then (and this was written yesterday):

Hey dudes. On the way to the bike shop today where I was going to test-ride a £300 Ridgeback Meteor and Velocity, I found a nice red Dawes Galaxy for £75. It looked in fine condition, was shockingly light (lighter than the aforementioned Ridgebackes, I reckon), and immidiately felt quite nice to ride. I've never tried drop handle bars before but they felt good, in fact they were no lower than the bars were on my old bike, really.

I ended up buying it a few hours later, concluding that if I changed my mind I'm sure to be able to sell it on to someone who'd really like it. It feels ok so far, needs cleaning up a bit probably. The wheels are 27", I think. It says 28/32 - 630 (27 1/4 - FIFTY) on the tyres.

It has been suggested that this will pose a problem should I need to replace the wheels. Hopefully I won't have to, and perhaps if it comes to that some time then I'll sell it somewhere.

I don't know much about the bike, in fact I thought it was some kind of cheap not-very-good one when I first saw the name, but it turns out its quite a well known touring bike? Mine was guessed to be from the 80's. I don't have my camera with me now to take better pictures but here are the ones I took earlier:

















Any comments? I plan to ride this 130 miles in one day, in 3 weeks time. I might get a new saddle, its very hard, I really feel the ground through it. Or maybe its meant to be like that?

Since I payed 1/4 of the price I was willing to, I can spend all kinds of money on it. But I have very little technical knowledge with bikes so I can't really do a lot.

Any comments or suggestions? Is it a good bike? Is it ****? Should I get a new one instead?

Anything at all, thanks

--Joe

garage sale GT

You rubbed a hole clean through your frame? How about a picture?

BTW 27" wheels are only 8mm bigger than 700c. If you can adjust your brake pads downward 4mm, you're fine. A modern road cassette hub is incidentally also 4mm wider but spreading a steel frame a bit is no big deal.

I did buy a new, cassette hub 27" wheel from Velocity but I guess some may not want to pay a new price for an old size. Modern and period-correct vintage looking tires are available too.

If your bike is a freewheel type I recommend ensuring the rear axle has enough preload on the cones in order to avoid bending or breaking it.

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rock_ten

I'll get a pic today.

27" are bigger? Oh, I thought they were smaller. I thought '700c' was 28"... but does that refer to a different kind of diameter measurement?

Yes its a "freewheel type", I suppose? What's that about preload on the cones, though??? : /

garage sale GT

27X1-1/4 rim diameter is 630mm, 700c rim diameter is 622. That bike looks like durable, better than average utility grade stuff.

The cone thing is just my theory. Some other sources say to use some preload on cup-and-cone ball bearings but not specifically because of axle bending.

I feel that loose or misadjusted cones are the main cause of bent or broken freewheel axles. If the cone is given a bit of preload then the axle can't bend unless the hub also bends.

When adjusting cones don't forget that quick release skewers can significantly compress the axle and change the adjustment, so if it's just right before you put in the skewer, it may be too tight after you put it in. Before reinstalling the wheel I check by squeezing a few 10mm washers between skewers and hub so I can simulate how tight it would be when installed, and see if the axle spins with a slight lumpy drag.

Also, the adjustment changes especially when you are breaking in new cones and bearings.

You can ride around on a slightly misadjusted axle for 500 miles or more before it starts to wobble around without spinning. It's not critical, it's just better for a bike you plan to keep for a while.

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rock_ten

Thanks dude, though I actually meant more like "wtf is 'preload'?"

I understood much of what you were saying but not very well. I can't picture what its all like in there. I have really no bike technical knowledge, which is very frustrating. I tried to overhaul my old bike but ended up making it a lot worse and it quickly became completely ruined.

alfeng

It was-and-is a good bike ...

That is, presuming you are 5'11", or taller [it looks as though it was set up for someone who is about 6'2"+], your Dawes Galaxy is a pretty nice, though not necessarily great, bike -- better than a Raleigh Grand Prix (a reasonable benchmark for mid-range bikes during the 70s), if that means anything ... but, probably not quite as nice as the higher-zoot Raleighs of the period which were also made with Reynolds CroMo tubing (i.e., similar to the tubing with which your bike's frame was made).

I reckon the vintage is late 70s (1977-79), if it matters; and, the components (specifically, those dodgy Weinmann levers) generally appear to be typical for a mid-range bike from the 70s.

IMO. Your Dawes is definitely worth keeping, cleaning up (of course) & possibly some some preemptive maintenance [e.g., new cables + repack the bearings in the hubs, BB, and headset], and/or upgrading as your budget allows OR as needed ...

27" wheels are a BETTER for taller/larger riders because a "standard" 27x1-1/4 (630-32) tyre is more-or-less equivalent to a 700x32 tyre, or vice-versa. A greater volume of air means a subjectively better ride (inflate your tyres to ~90PSI) ...

FWIW. Before you buy a new saddle, try lowering the seatpost by a quarter inch, or so (more?!?).

If you are inclined to buying a new saddle, consider a BROOKS B17 (the wider, standard width) ... set the rails so they are HORIZONTAL. Be sure to sit on the widest part of the saddle AND DON'T straddle the nose! Leather saddles require a bit of "regular" maintenance (and, you'll either love or hate it ... but, I think those who are not weight-weenies or slaves-to-fashion who find them uncomfortable are not setting them up properly on the bike OR are not sitting on them properly) ... I recommend SnoSeal instead of Profide.

If you are much less than 6' tall, then the frame is probably too large for comfortable riding ... but, not so much so that you can't ride it (unless you are 5'6", or shorter).

garage sale GT

Well, it just started snowing, with freezing rain predicted in a few hours, so my bike riding is over for today since my 3 speed cruiser is in pieces.

I recommend a book or two on maintenance or overhaul although none stand out as particularly outstanding. Sheldonbrown.com also has a lot of info plus a very clear picture of an axle with cones.

Some disagree with the idea that cup and cone ball bearings need a bit of preload but Jobst Brandt doesn't seem to and he is a degreed mechanical engineer: http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/cone-adjustment.html

BTW many bike tires including 27x1-1/4 don't measure up to advertised width and you have to run them at higher pressure to keep the rim from bottoming out on bumps. Then you get a crooked rim and an innertube with two holes on the inside, which is the classic snakebite puncture.

__________________
Your mouthwash ain't makin' it.

alfeng

BTW. There are a lot of GREAT "plastic" saddles available ... but, some of those are not universally comfortable AND (worse) they can be very expensive; so, I would still recommend a "leather" saddle if you have trouble finding a saddle that agrees with you.

FWIW. My preferred "plastic" saddle is the San Marco Concor and/or Concor Lite -- the "original" Concor seems slightly more comfortable than the Concor Lite.

rock_ten

Thanks for the replies.

I am just about 6ft, so I guess the size is alright. I'll try lowering the saddle, as you suggest, although I think that would make my legs too bent. Maybe I could raise the handlebars instead.

I'm still not sure I understand about preloading bearings! I read that article in the link but...
I'd like to be able to do bike repair stuff but I always just wreck it, every time. If I tried to sort out the bearings and stuff on this I'd never be able to ride it again.

The chain skips on any gears other than the highest or lowest one (at the back)

I checked out a brooks B17 yesterday, it feels like wood, haha. I'll see about getting one. I suppose if I'm getting a new saddle I should do so ASAP so that I have as much time as possible to break it in a bit before I do the long ride.

rock_ten

Thanks for the replies.

I am just about 6ft, so I guess the size is alright. I'll try lowering the saddle, as you suggest, although I think that would make my legs too bent. Maybe I could raise the handlebars instead.

I'm still not sure I understand about preloading bearings! I read that article in the link but...
I'd like to be able to do bike repair stuff but I always just wreck it, every time. If I tried to sort out the bearings and stuff on this I'd never be able to ride it again.

The chain skips on any gears other than the highest or lowest one (at the back)

I checked out a brooks B17 yesterday, it feels like wood, haha. I'll see about getting one. I suppose if I'm getting a new saddle I should do so ASAP so that I have as much time as possible to break it in a bit before I do the long ride.