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#1 |
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Guest
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I'm re-juvenating my old bike from very long ago and I need spoke
lengths. The wheels are Campy Nuovo Record 6 speed low flange 36 hole 3x to Mavic GP4 tubies. Probably more important, can I use these spokes with a pair of Nisi Campione del Mondos? thx, tf |
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#2 |
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Guest
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someone wrote:
> I'm re-juvenating my old bike from very long ago and I need spoke > lengths. The wheels are Campy Nuovo Record 6 speed low flange 36 > hole 3x to Mavic GP4 tubies. Probably more important, can I use > these spokes with a pair of Nisi Campione del Mondos? Let's get down to basics. You didn't say what sort of spokes these are, type and diameter(s) and how many miles they have served. That would clarify whether to use them again or not. As for length, lay the new rim next to the old just for comparison and if they are close, the spoke length should work. Do not unspoke the wheels if you plan to reuse the spokes, but rather transfer them from the old rim to the new, one at a time, making sure to have a drop of oil on each spoke eyelet in the new rim. Unlubricated spoke nipple seats is what ruined spoke wrenches because it was believed that torque arose from thread friction. This is untrue. Spoke nipples become rounded when the spoke nipple seizes in the rim. Aside from that, I suggest you get some new DT or Sapim 1.8-1.6mm thick spokes after measuring the OD of the rim to get its ERD (Effective Rim Diameter) then measuring from the OD of the rim down to an inserted spoke nipple. Use a spoke calculating program on the web to arrive at spoke length. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm Jobst Brandt |
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#3 |
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Guest
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On May 18, 11:56 am, jobst.bra...@stanfordalumni.org wrote:
> someone wrote: > > I'm re-juvenating my old bike from very long ago and I need spoke > > lengths. The wheels are Campy Nuovo Record 6 speed low flange 36 > > hole 3x to Mavic GP4 tubies. Probably more important, can I use > > these spokes with a pair of Nisi Campione del Mondos? > > Let's get down to basics. You didn't say what sort of spokes these > are, type and diameter(s) and how many miles they have served. That > would clarify whether to use them again or not. DT 15-16-15 (I'm 148 lbs.). Mileage unknown, but since I had long since stopped racing by the time I laced the originals I bet it's pretty low for a DT spoke. Most of their lives were spent hanging in the garage, but the sides of the rims are scored enough that I don't trust them. If they fit with a proper amount of thread contact I'm going to re-use them. DTs have never failed me except for a couple years ago where one rear wheel spoke broke about one third out from the hub flange on the drive side. I just twisted the pieces around their siblings, opened the brake and did thirty miles home. Of course, if they begin popping I'll replace them. > > As for length, lay the new rim next to the old just for comparison and > if they are close, the spoke length should work. Do not unspoke the > wheels if you plan to reuse the spokes, but rather transfer them from > the old rim to the new, one at a time, making sure to have a drop of > oil on each spoke eyelet in the new rim. I never unlace. I'm aware of seating. Unlubricated spoke nipple > seats is what ruined spoke wrenches because it was believed that > torque arose from thread friction. This is untrue. Spoke nipples > become rounded when the spoke nipple seizes in the rim. > > Aside from that, I suggest you get some new DT or Sapim 1.8-1.6mm > thick spokes after measuring the OD of the rim to get its ERD > (Effective Rim Diameter) then measuring from the OD of the rim down > to an inserted spoke nipple. Use a spoke calculating program on the > web to arrive at spoke length. > > http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm > > Jobst Brandt Thanks for the write-back. As an aside, I also have a wheel that has butted spokes that get smaller as you move from the hub to the rim in two distinct (to my fingers) reductions. Perhaps 14-15-16? The head is stamped with a 'P'. I've never seen this before. |
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