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#1 |
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Guest
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I have a 30-ish year old Record hub that recently broke an axle.
After reassembly (all old parts except the axle), it rolls a bit crustily: spins plenty long but when holding the axle in hand, some vibration is noticeable. The cups and cones don't have any really visible or palpable deformities, but I'm fairly sure if the cups were brinnelled that badly, the vibration would be worse. Not sure if that is actually a recent development, since I hadn't had the wheel off in roughly forever. This bike typically just gets a dozen or so 11 mile commutes per year. Is this something that really needs to be attended to, or will it grind away without any dramatic failures for a while? Other than replacing the balls, what could be done? Mike |
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#2 |
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On Jun 7, 12:15*am, mx <wage...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I have a 30-ish year old Record hub that recently broke an axle. > After reassembly (all old parts except the axle), it rolls a bit > crustily: spins plenty long but when holding the axle in hand, some > vibration is noticeable. *The cups and cones don't have any really > visible or palpable deformities, but I'm fairly sure if the cups were > brinnelled that badly, the vibration would be worse. > > Not sure if that is actually a recent development, since I hadn't had > the wheel off in roughly forever. *This bike typically just gets a > dozen or so 11 mile commutes per year. *Is this something that really > needs to be attended to, or will it grind away without any dramatic > failures for a while? *Other than replacing the balls, what could be > done? > > Mike I suspect you have some pitting on the cones. Any decent bike shop that 'qui si parla Casmpagnolo' will have replacements. New bearing balls(1/4 inch), grease, adjust well. |
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#3 |
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mx wrote:
> I have a 30-ish year old Record hub that recently broke an axle. > After reassembly (all old parts except the axle), it rolls a bit > crustily: spins plenty long but when holding the axle in hand, some > vibration is noticeable. The cups and cones don't have any really > visible or palpable deformities, but I'm fairly sure if the cups were > brinnelled that badly, the vibration would be worse. > > Not sure if that is actually a recent development, since I hadn't had > the wheel off in roughly forever. This bike typically just gets a > dozen or so 11 mile commutes per year. Is this something that really > needs to be attended to, or will it grind away without any dramatic > failures for a while? Other than replacing the balls, what could be > done? Assuming you cleaned it thoroughly and changed the bearings on rebuild, it's either adjusted improperly or there is wear on cone(s) or cup(s). p.s. it is not brinelling, it's spalling - erosion not impact. -- Andrew Muzi <www.yellowjersey.org/> Open every day since 1 April, 1971 ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
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#4 |
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On Fri, 6 Jun 2008 23:15:35 -0700 (PDT), mx <wagen13@yahoo.com> wrote:
>This bike typically just gets a >dozen or so 11 mile commutes per year. Is this something that really >needs to be attended to, or will it grind away without any dramatic >failures for a while? I've ridden very rough hubs for years - it's slower but I don't think anything terrible will happen. |
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#5 |
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> Assuming you cleaned it thoroughly and changed the bearings on rebuild, Cleaned yes, replaced balls no. > it's either adjusted improperly quite possible, but while I got it too tight at one point, it now turns very freely but I can't detect any slop. My slop-detector is probably not very well-calibrated, since I don't do this very much. I'm more confident in my ability to lace up a wheel than adjust a bearing. |
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#6 |
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On Jun 7, 8:34*am, John Forrest Tomlinson <usenetrem...@jt10000.com>
wrote: > I've ridden very rough hubs for years - it's slower but I don't think > anything terrible will happen. That was the right answer! If it's correct, so much the better. ;-> |
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#7 |
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"mx" <wagen13@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3f5dc4b6-e453-4e6b-a1cb-2f4b6027e6a8@t12g2000prg.googlegroups.com... > >> Assuming you cleaned it thoroughly and changed the bearings on rebuild, > > Cleaned yes, replaced balls no. > >> it's either adjusted improperly > > quite possible, but while I got it too tight at one point, it now > turns very freely but I can't detect any slop. My slop-detector is > probably not very well-calibrated, since I don't do this very much. > I'm more confident in my ability to lace up a wheel than adjust a > bearing. Psst - don't tell anyone but new races even from Campy feel slightly rough until they've run in a bit. |
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#8 |
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In article
<3f5dc4b6-e453-4e6b-a1cb-2f4b6027e6a8@t12g2000prg.googlegroups.com>, mx <wagen13@yahoo.com> wrote: > > Assuming you cleaned it thoroughly and changed the bearings on rebuild, > > Cleaned yes, replaced balls no. Replace the bearing balls with grade 25 balls. No reason not to replace the bearing balls when repacking unless you repack every week. The cones require good adjustment. A little too tight or loose is bad. Furthermore, quick release pressure changes cone adjustment enough to matter. It is not difficult but cone adjustment can require successive approximations to get right. -- Michael Press |
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