New cyclist puts on new tire and it looks funny....

Twitchell

Got my new front tire and just put it on but it doesn't look right. I ordered a
26 X 1.50, same that was on it before, but the area around the stem doesn't seat
all the way.

Try as I did, it just wouldn't go down all the way. See pict.


http://imgplace.com/image/view/3048...0e0bc6a503b3715

Any advise....I also got a 26 X 1 3/4 tire just in case the rim was for this
kind of tire.

twitch

bigjimpack@gmail.com

Deflate tube and workthe bead till its seated

On Jun 12, 9:26*pm, Twitchell <Twitchell_mem...@newsguy.com> wrote:
> Got my new front tire and just put it on but it doesn't look right. *I ordered a
> 26 X 1.50, same that was on it before, but the area around the stem doesn't seat
> all the way.
>
> Try as I did, it just wouldn't go down all the way. *See pict.
>
> http://imgplace.com/image/view/3048...0e0bc6a503b3715
>
> Any advise....I also got a 26 X 1 3/4 tire just in case the rim was for this
> kind of tire.
>
> twitch

Tom Kunich

<bigjimpack@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:b1161c5c-0ebe-499a-934c-be405087af72@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com...
> Deflate tube and workthe bead till its seated

As Jim says - deflate the tube, push the filler in slightly, seat the tire
around the innertube and pull the filler back down and re-inflate.

Tim McNamara

In article <g2sic9014kp@drn.newsguy.com>,
Twitchell <Twitchell_member@newsguy.com> wrote:

> Got my new front tire and just put it on but it doesn't look right.
> I ordered a 26 X 1.50, same that was on it before, but the area
> around the stem doesn't seat all the way.
>
> Try as I did, it just wouldn't go down all the way. See pict.
>
>
> http://imgplace.com/image/view/3048...0e0bc6a503b3715

That's a common problem. What you've got is the base of the valve stem
caught under the tire bead. Deflate the tire and push the valve into
the tire until the base of the valve pops past the bead. Then reinflate
partially and check the tire seating line line all the way around the
tire. If the tire's in too low somewhere work it out with your thumb.

A Muzi

Twitchell wrote:
> Got my new front tire and just put it on but it doesn't look right. I ordered a
> 26 X 1.50, same that was on it before, but the area around the stem doesn't seat
> all the way.
> Try as I did, it just wouldn't go down all the way. See pict.
> http://imgplace.com/image/view/3048...0e0bc6a503b3715
> Any advise....I also got a 26 X 1 3/4 tire just in case the rim was for this
> kind of tire.

Push the valve up inside the tire; don't yank it into the rim. It's
easy to catch the valve base under the tire's edge which would prevent
the tire from seating properly.

Your mountain bike rims are decimal (26x1.5, 26x1.9 26x2.2 etc) 559mm.
26 x 1-3/4 fractional are a different series, 571mm.

Ensure the rim liner is appropriate and centered so it does not occlude
the tire seat surface in the rim. A mist of spray wax can help seat
recalcitrant tires (car shops use soapy water which also works).
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Twitchell

In article <sYidnZoCjZT4SczVnZ2dnUVZ_i2dnZ2d@earthlink.com>, Tom Kunich says...
>
><bigjimpack@gmail.com> wrote in message
>news:b1161c5c-0ebe-499a-934c-be405087af72@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com...
>> Deflate tube and workthe bead till its seated
>
>As Jim says - deflate the tube, push the filler in slightly, seat the tire
>around the innertube and pull the filler back down and re-inflate.
>
It took a couple of tries but it finally seated....thanks much..

twitch

dustoyevsky@mac.com

On Jun 12, 9:53*pm, Twitchell <Twitchell_mem...@newsguy.com> wrote:

> It took a couple of tries but it finally seated....thanks much.

That valve interference problem is why I start (sometimes, anyhow)
with the tube pumped up (with a pump, not my mouth) with just about
enough air to come to the size/shape it's going to be when inflated to
normal pressure inside the mounted tire. Get the valve area seated,
put the tire on as far as possible, working on both sides, and let the
air out if the last bit is difficult. If the last few inches of tire
are real tight, you might have to squeeze the beads together, making
the beads as "short" as possible while working around the tire,
pulling toward the area that isn't on yet, to get them over the edge
of the rim.

Or you can do one bead at a time, putting the tube in after one bead
is seated all the way around. I still start at the valve because it's
easier that way.

I've read advice to the contrary, that the valve area gets seated
last. Maybe the idea there is that the reenforced (thicker) area
around the base of the valve stem is supposed to help seat the tire?
Oh well, not the way that works for me. --D-y

Twitchell

In article <76de895c-caa5-45c5-87f9-9fe1de9d8ce0@x35g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>,
dustoyevsky@mac.com says...
>
>On Jun 12, 9:53=A0pm, Twitchell <Twitchell_mem...@newsguy.com> wrote:
>
>> It took a couple of tries but it finally seated....thanks much.
>
>That valve interference problem is why I start (sometimes, anyhow)
>with the tube pumped up (with a pump, not my mouth) with just about
>enough air to come to the size/shape it's going to be when inflated to
>normal pressure inside the mounted tire. Get the valve area seated,
>put the tire on as far as possible, working on both sides, and let the
>air out if the last bit is difficult. If the last few inches of tire
>are real tight, you might have to squeeze the beads together, making
>the beads as "short" as possible while working around the tire,
>pulling toward the area that isn't on yet, to get them over the edge
>of the rim.
>
>Or you can do one bead at a time, putting the tube in after one bead
>is seated all the way around. I still start at the valve because it's
>easier that way.
>
>I've read advice to the contrary, that the valve area gets seated
>last. Maybe the idea there is that the reenforced (thicker) area
>around the base of the valve stem is supposed to help seat the tire?
>Oh well, not the way that works for me. --D-y

I actually put the tire on with the tube partially inflated (very little but it
did have some air). Anyway, I noticed right from the start that the area around
the valve stem didn't seat right. I started putting on the tire starting from
the valve...maybe I shouldn't have.

I'm a 63 year old newbie at this with artificial hips....mistakes are expected.

twitch

Dan O

On Jun 13, 8:06 am, "dustoyev...@mac.com" <dustoyev...@mac.com> wrote:
> On Jun 12, 9:53 pm, Twitchell <Twitchell_mem...@newsguy.com> wrote:
>
> > It took a couple of tries but it finally seated....thanks much.
>
> That valve interference problem is why I start (sometimes, anyhow)
> with the tube pumped up (with a pump, not my mouth) with just about
> enough air to come to the size/shape it's going to be when inflated to
> normal pressure inside the mounted tire. Get the valve area seated,
> put the tire on as far as possible, working on both sides, and let the
> air out if the last bit is difficult. If the last few inches of tire
> are real tight, you might have to squeeze the beads together, making
> the beads as "short" as possible while working around the tire,
> pulling toward the area that isn't on yet, to get them over the edge
> of the rim.
>
> Or you can do one bead at a time, putting the tube in after one bead
> is seated all the way around. I still start at the valve because it's
> easier that way.
>
> I've read advice to the contrary, that the valve area gets seated
> last. Maybe the idea there is that the reenforced (thicker) area
> around the base of the valve stem is supposed to help seat the tire?

The idea is that the already mounted bead is free to move down into
the center of the rim, offering more slack than if the valve stem was
in the way.

Tosspot

Twitchell wrote:
> Got my new front tire and just put it on but it doesn't look right. I ordered a
> 26 X 1.50, same that was on it before, but the area around the stem doesn't seat
> all the way.
>
> Try as I did, it just wouldn't go down all the way. See pict.
>
>
> http://imgplace.com/image/view/3048...0e0bc6a503b3715
>
> Any advise....I also got a 26 X 1 3/4 tire just in case the rim was for this
> kind of tire.

You got the Loopy Lou's! I did that once and didn't notice, 'twas a
very odd sensation cycling on it.

jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org

Frank Leake wrote:

>> Got my new front tire and just put it on but it doesn't look right.
>> I ordered a 26 X 1.50, same that was on it before, but the area
>> around the stem doesn't seat all the way.

>> Try as I did, it just wouldn't go down all the way. See picture.

http://imgplace.com/image/view/3048...0e0bc6a503b3715

>> Any advise... I also got a 26 X 1 3/4 tire just in case the rim
>> was for this kind of tire.

> You got the Loopy Lou's! I did that once and didn't notice, 'twas a
> very odd sensation cycling on it.

Advice:

This is common with most inner tubes. The way to do avoid the problem
is to push the valve stem up into the tire after mounting it so that
it can descend with its attachment pad curved to fit between tire
casing walls instead of having the tire crimping the tube at either
side and sitting on top of the reinforcement. That crimp can cause a
puncture in a short distance.

Presta valves are slenderer with a thinner attachment pad making them
are easier to install.

Jobst Brandt

dustoyevsky@mac.com

On Jun 13, 11:13*am, Dan O <danover...@gmail.com> wrote:

> The idea is that the already mounted bead is free to move down into
> the center of the rim, offering more slack than if the valve stem was
> in the way.

Then it's in the way when the tire is the tightest. True, there is a
thicker area in the tube around the valve, which might resist pinching
with tire levers a little better, but it's pretty small.

FWIW, Park Tools "help" site starts with the valve, too. So it goes in
straight, is their point. I like "straight" OK, but my main thing,
learned 30-odd years ago when I started using Presta valves on "narrow
high pressure clinchers", was the discovery ("field operations") that
the Presta valve wouldn't take much abuse, compared to the old
Schrader valves, IRT poking/pulling/moving around after they were
mounted and didn't go on quite right-- especially poking and pulling.
So, I made the valve happy by setting it in the tire with a little air
pressure (pump, not mouth even though you can with Presta!) the same
or very close to the way it would be when fully inflated-- including a
straight valve, of course. Which helps when the valve stem is just
about long enough to work with a deep(er)-section modern rim. Although
I do carry a couple of extenders along with the camp stove and three
days' rations in the seatbag. --D-y

Tom Kunich

"Twitchell" <Twitchell_member@newsguy.com> wrote in message
news:g2u5hi0v34@drn.newsguy.com...
>
> I'm a 63 year old newbie at this with artificial hips....mistakes are
> expected.

That doesn't mean you aren't going to catch heck from everyone for them.....

Peter Howard

"A Muzi" <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote in message
news:a21c$4851d643$18918@news.teranews.com...

>A mist of spray wax can help seat recalcitrant tires (car shops use soapy
>water which also works).
> --
> Andrew Muzi
> <www.yellowjersey.org/>
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971
> ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

I always enjoy reading discussions like this to check on my own practices.
I've never used any sort of tire fitting lubricant on bicycle tires myself,
mainly through fear of contaminating the rubber with something that might
perish it, or having a tire that will slip on the rim. Though I'm not sure
if bicycle tires can slip around the rim the way offroad motorcycle tyres
will. What exactly is this spray wax? What's the brand name and what else is
it used for?

Digressing a little, I've been putting off mounting a pair of Schwalbe
Marathon Plus's on my new 26" Velocity rimmed wheels because I've heard all
about how recalcitrant they can be. When I finally achieved the requisite
Zen-like state of calm and attempted it, it was a huge anticlimax. The
things practically fell on by themselves and for the first time ever, I did
not need a little help from a tire lever for the last six inches of bead. It
seemed to me that the Schwalbes are so fat and stiff that I was able to get
a good double handful of the tire and rotate it away from me to pop that
last bit of bead over the edge. Or maybe I was just lucky.

Peter H.