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#1 |
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So, I'm riding to work today, on the most scary part of my ride -- 0.6
miles over a bridge on a pretty busy highway with 65 mph traffic. 12" of unridable curb. (Alas, any other options are miles out of my way.) It's slightly downhill, so I usually get a pretty good speed going, perhaps 35 mph if I pedal 25-30 mph if I don't. It's perfectly straight, and perfectly flat -- no turning, no bumps. It scares me, but it's usually over in about a minute, so I do it. Today I'm not pedalling, right in the middle of the lane, and I'm crouched down on the lower handlebars (no aerobars or anything like that) and my odometer says my top speed was 28 mph, so that's probably what my speed was. And then the steering starts oscillating back and forth, at about 2 Hz. It starts weak, but turns into a pretty strong oscillation in about two seconds, and I'd say I was a second or two away from a serious crash. I hit the brakes, and as I slow, the oscillation goes away. I stop and walk the bike somewhere safe, and check it out. Wheels are well secured, steering column is tight, etc. I can't find anything wrong. I ride it slow at first, no problems, and the later I'm going down another hill (in a much safer place) and hit 30 mph and no problems (but so ready to hit those brakes!) It's a Giant OCR2 2003 or so -- aluminum frame, fork. It's pretty much stock, except that it has 700x28c tires, and a luggage rack. And interrupter brake handles, but I wasn't on the top part of the bars this time. (This might be relevant -- I do most of my riding with my hands on the top part of the bars. I don't race, I just ride for exercise, fun and to get from point A to B.) The bike is pretty new to me, but I'm not the first owner. I've personally only got about 70 miles on it now. No problems like this before, but this was probably the fastest I'd been on it until today too. This part of my ride makes me nervous, and so I might have been holding on tighter than usual, but I doubt I was actually shaking (well, I was after ...) I've found a number of pages that talk about this -- http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble .... but I don't really know what to do about it. I was pretty close to losing it, and if I had, it would have been very bad. One of the articles suggests putting a leg against my top tube, which I'll try, but is there more that can be done? Something that doesn't rely on me remembering to ride the right way? -- Doug McLaren, dougmc@frenzied.us Marge, this ticket doesn't just give me a seat. It also gives me the right, no, the duty, to make a complete ass of myself. --Homer Simpson |
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#2 |
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Congratulations on entering the wobble club. That usually happens with metal
frames and forks when you hit the front wheel EXACTLY right. Above or below the critical speed you won't get the wobble but once it starts it will often get progressively worse as you slow up and then at the critical speed it will simply disappear. In case it's something else: 1) Hold the front brake on and rock the front end. If it clicks the headset might be loose or some such. This is an adjustment. This is also somewhat rare on bikes as new as your Giant. 2) With the front brake on push the front wheel side to side at the forks. If there's a clicking it can mean that the bearings in the wheel are loose or bad. This is pretty rare as well. 3) Spin the front wheel and see if you broke a spoke or knocked the front wheel out of alignment in some manner. "Doug McLaren" <dougmc+usenet-20080613@frenzied.us> wrote in message news:1213381516.17055@frenzied.us... > So, I'm riding to work today, on the most scary part of my ride -- 0.6 > miles over a bridge on a pretty busy highway with 65 mph traffic. 12" > of unridable curb. (Alas, any other options are miles out of my way.) > It's slightly downhill, so I usually get a pretty good speed going, > perhaps 35 mph if I pedal 25-30 mph if I don't. It's perfectly > straight, and perfectly flat -- no turning, no bumps. It scares me, > but it's usually over in about a minute, so I do it. > > Today I'm not pedalling, right in the middle of the lane, and I'm > crouched down on the lower handlebars (no aerobars or anything like > that) and my odometer says my top speed was 28 mph, so that's probably > what my speed was. And then the steering starts oscillating back and > forth, at about 2 Hz. It starts weak, but turns into a pretty strong > oscillation in about two seconds, and I'd say I was a second or two > away from a serious crash. I hit the brakes, and as I slow, the > oscillation goes away. > > I stop and walk the bike somewhere safe, and check it out. Wheels are > well secured, steering column is tight, etc. I can't find anything > wrong. I ride it slow at first, no problems, and the later I'm going > down another hill (in a much safer place) and hit 30 mph and no > problems (but so ready to hit those brakes!) > > It's a Giant OCR2 2003 or so -- aluminum frame, fork. It's pretty > much stock, except that it has 700x28c tires, and a luggage rack. And > interrupter brake handles, but I wasn't on the top part of the bars > this time. (This might be relevant -- I do most of my riding with my > hands on the top part of the bars. I don't race, I just ride for > exercise, fun and to get from point A to B.) > > The bike is pretty new to me, but I'm not the first owner. I've > personally only got about 70 miles on it now. No problems like this > before, but this was probably the fastest I'd been on it until today > too. > > This part of my ride makes me nervous, and so I might have been > holding on tighter than usual, but I doubt I was actually shaking > (well, I was after ...) > > I've found a number of pages that talk about this -- > > http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble > > ... but I don't really know what to do about it. I was pretty close > to losing it, and if I had, it would have been very bad. > > One of the articles suggests putting a leg against my top tube, which > I'll try, but is there more that can be done? Something that doesn't > rely on me remembering to ride the right way? > > -- > Doug McLaren, dougmc@frenzied.us > Marge, this ticket doesn't just give me a seat. It also gives me the > right, no, the duty, to make a complete ass of myself. --Homer Simpson |
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#3 |
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<snip classic description of shimmy>
I find that just slightly standing up on the pedals- just enough to ease my weight off the saddle, not to actually stand up- stops the shimmy. |
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#4 |
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Doug McLaren wrote:
> So, I'm riding to work today, on the most scary part of my ride -- > 0.6 miles over a bridge on a pretty busy highway with 65 mph > traffic. 12" of unridable curb. (Alas, any other options are miles > out of my way.) It's slightly downhill, so I usually get a pretty > good speed going, perhaps 35 mph if I pedal 25-30 mph if I don't. > It's perfectly straight, and perfectly flat -- no turning, no bumps. > It scares me, but it's usually over in about a minute, so I do it. > Today I'm not pedaling, right in the middle of the lane, and I'm > crouched down on the lower handlebars (no aero bars or anything like > that) and my odometer says my top speed was 28 mph, so that's > probably what my speed was. And then the steering starts > oscillating back and forth, at about 2 Hz. It starts weak, but > turns into a pretty strong oscillation in about two seconds, and I'd > say I was a second or two away from a serious crash. I hit the > brakes, and as I slow, the oscillation goes away. > I stop and walk the bike somewhere safe, and check it out. Wheels > are well secured, steering column is tight, etc. I can't find > anything wrong. I ride it slow at first, no problems, and the later > I'm going down another hill (in a much safer place) and hit 30 mph > and no problems (but so ready to hit those brakes!) > It's a Giant OCR2 2003 or so -- aluminum frame, fork. It's pretty > much stock, except that it has 700x28c tires, and a luggage rack. > And interrupter brake handles, but I wasn't on the top part of the > bars this time. (This might be relevant -- I do most of my riding > with my hands on the top part of the bars. I don't race, I just > ride for exercise, fun and to get from point A to B.) > The bike is pretty new to me, but I'm not the first owner. I've > personally only got about 70 miles on it now. No problems like this > before, but this was probably the fastest I'd been on it until today > too. > This part of my ride makes me nervous, and so I might have been > holding on tighter than usual, but I doubt I was actually shaking > (well, I was after ...) You don't need to shake, although that can help initiate shimmy. Unless you hold onto the bars differently (loose grip) or can calm you response, you are reinforcing the natural frequency of bicycle shimmy. Generally the tighter you grip the bars the tenser your arm muscles are and worry about this occurring, the more certainly it will be initiated, > I've found a number of pages that talk about this -- http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble > ... but I don't really know what to do about it. I was pretty > close to losing it, and if I had, it would have been very bad. First you must recognize that your natural response frequency is the same as the shimmy so even if you are not initiating it, you are reinforcing it. > One of the articles suggests putting a leg against my top tube, > which I'll try, but is there more that can be done? Something that > doesn't rely on me remembering to ride the right way? This should become natural to you. I think experimenting would help. Coast no-hands down a grade where this shimmy speed can be achieved and see whether it occurs. Then you will know what the natural critical speed is and know when to be prepared to suppress it. That it occurs with hands on the bars makes me suspect you are not at ease at higher speeds. That is another solution. Jobst Brandt |
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#5 |
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<jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org> wrote in message
news:4852e8e1$0$17217$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net... > > You don't need to shake, although that can help initiate shimmy. > Unless you hold onto the bars differently (loose grip) or can calm you > response, you are reinforcing the natural frequency of bicycle shimmy. > Generally the tighter you grip the bars the tenser your arm muscles > are and worry about this occurring, the more certainly it will be > initiated, Hmm I forgot that - most of the shimmy is caused by your fear and the tightness of your grip on the bars. If you can completely relax that sometimes stops the shimmy but I was never able to do that. Eventually I became relaxed enough on the bike that I never gripped the bars tight enough to support a shimmy. This is why Jobst is a good addition to this group. He has the ability to explain all the correct procedures when the rest of us have forgotten it after learning good practices that prevent such things from happening. >> I've found a number of pages that talk about this -- > > http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble > >> ... but I don't really know what to do about it. I was pretty >> close to losing it, and if I had, it would have been very bad. > > First you must recognize that your natural response frequency is the > same as the shimmy so even if you are not initiating it, you are > reinforcing it. > >> One of the articles suggests putting a leg against my top tube, >> which I'll try, but is there more that can be done? Something that >> doesn't rely on me remembering to ride the right way? > > This should become natural to you. I think experimenting would help. > Coast no-hands down a grade where this shimmy speed can be achieved > and see whether it occurs. Then you will know what the natural > critical speed is and know when to be prepared to suppress it. > > That it occurs with hands on the bars makes me suspect you are not at > ease at higher speeds. That is another solution. > > Jobst Brandt |
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#6 |
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> The Brandt article is definitive. Shimmy is a 'phenomenon' not a 'defect'.
> Mike Jacoubowsky reported success with a much heavier weight of grease in > headset bearings than is normally used. If it's chronic, try that besides > damping the top tube with your knee > -- > Andrew Muzi Wonderful. I don't even remember saying that! OK, I dimly recall it now. Basically all it did was damp the steering a bit, and the effect would go away pretty quickly as the grease moves out of place. Maybe I used taffy? The problem with shimmy is that it's *not* the bicycle, but the combination of bicycle and rider. A bicycle isn't inherently stable; if it were, you could give it a push and get it to head down the road a ways. In all cases (with normal bikes) the bike is dependent upon rider input for stability. Which is a problem, since a nervous rider does things that reinforce a tendancy to shimmy. It's all in the FAQ, but I don't think the FAQ hits hard enough on the fact that a bicycle is inherently unstable until you add a person to it. That should be enough to get people thinking in the right direction. I actually had a scary bit of shimmy last week, for the first time in ages. I was heading down the fast, pretty straight grade on Highway 1 towards Tunitas Creek (Northern California) with my camera in one hand, taking pictures of the coast, while trying to not lose ground to a fast-moving group that was a bit ahead of me. I think I got a bit nervous about doing 39mph while taking photos (I generally have a rule of putting away the camera at 35mph+), and that was all it took to set up the shimmy. I didn't feel comfortable putting the camera away (so I couldn't get two hands on the bars) and I was having a very difficult time convincing myself that the right thing to do was to move my left hand from the brake lever towards the center of the bar. I *did* know that there was no issue with the bike, and I *did* know the right things to do. That I resisted doing so is evidence that even somebody who knows all the right stuff can still have problems doing the right stuff. In the future, I'm going to stick to my "no photos above 35mph" rule. :>) --Mike Jacoubowsky Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReaction.com Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA "A Muzi" <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote in message news:bf82a$4852f297$4369@news.teranews.com... > Doug McLaren wrote: >> So, I'm riding to work today, on the most scary part of my ride -- 0.6 >> miles over a bridge on a pretty busy highway with 65 mph traffic. 12" >> of unridable curb. (Alas, any other options are miles out of my way.) >> It's slightly downhill, so I usually get a pretty good speed going, >> perhaps 35 mph if I pedal 25-30 mph if I don't. It's perfectly >> straight, and perfectly flat -- no turning, no bumps. It scares me, >> but it's usually over in about a minute, so I do it. >> >> Today I'm not pedalling, right in the middle of the lane, and I'm >> crouched down on the lower handlebars (no aerobars or anything like >> that) and my odometer says my top speed was 28 mph, so that's probably >> what my speed was. And then the steering starts oscillating back and >> forth, at about 2 Hz. It starts weak, but turns into a pretty strong >> oscillation in about two seconds, and I'd say I was a second or two >> away from a serious crash. I hit the brakes, and as I slow, the >> oscillation goes away. >> >> I stop and walk the bike somewhere safe, and check it out. Wheels are >> well secured, steering column is tight, etc. I can't find anything >> wrong. I ride it slow at first, no problems, and the later I'm going >> down another hill (in a much safer place) and hit 30 mph and no >> problems (but so ready to hit those brakes!) >> >> It's a Giant OCR2 2003 or so -- aluminum frame, fork. It's pretty >> much stock, except that it has 700x28c tires, and a luggage rack. And >> interrupter brake handles, but I wasn't on the top part of the bars >> this time. (This might be relevant -- I do most of my riding with my >> hands on the top part of the bars. I don't race, I just ride for >> exercise, fun and to get from point A to B.) >> >> The bike is pretty new to me, but I'm not the first owner. I've >> personally only got about 70 miles on it now. No problems like this >> before, but this was probably the fastest I'd been on it until today >> too. >> >> This part of my ride makes me nervous, and so I might have been >> holding on tighter than usual, but I doubt I was actually shaking >> (well, I was after ...) >> >> I've found a number of pages that talk about this -- >> >> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble >> >> ... but I don't really know what to do about it. I was pretty close >> to losing it, and if I had, it would have been very bad. >> >> One of the articles suggests putting a leg against my top tube, which >> I'll try, but is there more that can be done? Something that doesn't >> rely on me remembering to ride the right way? > > The Brandt article is definitive. Shimmy is a 'phenomenon' not a 'defect'. > Mike Jacoubowsky reported success with a much heavier weight of grease in > headset bearings than is normally used. If it's chronic, try that besides > damping the top tube with your knee > -- > Andrew Muzi > <www.yellowjersey.org/> > Open every day since 1 April, 1971 > ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
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#7 |
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On Jun 13, 4:28 pm, "Mike Jacoubowsky" <Mi...@ChainReaction.com>
wrote: > > The Brandt article is definitive. Shimmy is a 'phenomenon' not a 'defect'. > > Mike Jacoubowsky reported success with a much heavier weight of grease in > > headset bearings than is normally used. If it's chronic, try that besides > > damping the top tube with your knee > > -- > > Andrew Muzi > > Wonderful. I don't even remember saying that! OK, I dimly recall it now. > Basically all it did was damp the steering a bit, and the effect would go > away pretty quickly as the grease moves out of place. Maybe I used taffy? > > The problem with shimmy is that it's *not* the bicycle, but the combination > of bicycle and rider. A bicycle isn't inherently stable; if it were, you > could give it a push and get it to head down the road a ways. And you can. Sure, it'll eventually fall over when it slows down enough, but the normal steering geometry does result in pretty good stability of an unridden bike above 5mph or so (beach cruiser geometry is better for this than road bike). Guess you didn't participate in one of my neighborhood's pastimes as a child. A couple kids would ride their bikes straight toward each other and then jump off while still a few hundred feet apart. The idea was to to have the bikes still going fast enough to cause a good collision (and generate additional revenue for bike shop owners). I've encountered shimmy a few times and have found the 'knee against top tube' to work very well at damping the oscillation. |
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#8 |
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jobst.brandt@stanfordalumni.org wrote:
> Doug McLaren wrote: > >> So, I'm riding to work today, on the most scary part of my ride -- >> 0.6 miles over a bridge on a pretty busy highway with 65 mph >> traffic. 12" of unridable curb. (Alas, any other options are miles >> out of my way.) It's slightly downhill, so I usually get a pretty >> good speed going, perhaps 35 mph if I pedal 25-30 mph if I don't. >> It's perfectly straight, and perfectly flat -- no turning, no bumps. >> It scares me, but it's usually over in about a minute, so I do it. > >> Today I'm not pedaling, right in the middle of the lane, and I'm >> crouched down on the lower handlebars (no aero bars or anything like >> that) and my odometer says my top speed was 28 mph, so that's >> probably what my speed was. And then the steering starts >> oscillating back and forth, at about 2 Hz. It starts weak, but >> turns into a pretty strong oscillation in about two seconds, and I'd >> say I was a second or two away from a serious crash. I hit the >> brakes, and as I slow, the oscillation goes away. > >> I stop and walk the bike somewhere safe, and check it out. Wheels >> are well secured, steering column is tight, etc. I can't find >> anything wrong. I ride it slow at first, no problems, and the later >> I'm going down another hill (in a much safer place) and hit 30 mph >> and no problems (but so ready to hit those brakes!) > >> It's a Giant OCR2 2003 or so -- aluminum frame, fork. It's pretty >> much stock, except that it has 700x28c tires, and a luggage rack. >> And interrupter brake handles, but I wasn't on the top part of the >> bars this time. (This might be relevant -- I do most of my riding >> with my hands on the top part of the bars. I don't race, I just >> ride for exercise, fun and to get from point A to B.) > >> The bike is pretty new to me, but I'm not the first owner. I've >> personally only got about 70 miles on it now. No problems like this >> before, but this was probably the fastest I'd been on it until today >> too. > >> This part of my ride makes me nervous, and so I might have been >> holding on tighter than usual, but I doubt I was actually shaking >> (well, I was after ...) > > You don't need to shake, although that can help initiate shimmy. > Unless you hold onto the bars differently (loose grip) or can calm you > response, you are reinforcing the natural frequency of bicycle shimmy. > Generally the tighter you grip the bars the tenser your arm muscles > are and worry about this occurring, the more certainly it will be > initiated, > >> I've found a number of pages that talk about this -- > > http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble > >> ... but I don't really know what to do about it. I was pretty >> close to losing it, and if I had, it would have been very bad. > > First you must recognize that your natural response frequency is the > same as the shimmy so even if you are not initiating it, you are > reinforcing it. jobst, he's a piece of floppy harmonic meat. he can't help reinforce it if his dynamics coincide with that of the bike. > >> One of the articles suggests putting a leg against my top tube, >> which I'll try, but is there more that can be done? Something that >> doesn't rely on me remembering to ride the right way? > > This should become natural to you. I think experimenting would help. > Coast no-hands down a grade where this shimmy speed can be achieved > and see whether it occurs. Then you will know what the natural > critical speed is and know when to be prepared to suppress it. that is a band-aid and does not fix the problem. worse, it doesn't prevent it from starting, something a proper cure does. > > That it occurs with hands on the bars makes me suspect you are not at > ease at higher speeds. That is another solution. typical - blame the rider. |
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#9 |
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Doug McLaren wrote:
> So, I'm riding to work today, on the most scary part of my ride -- 0.6 > miles over a bridge on a pretty busy highway with 65 mph traffic. 12" > of unridable curb. (Alas, any other options are miles out of my way.) > It's slightly downhill, so I usually get a pretty good speed going, > perhaps 35 mph if I pedal 25-30 mph if I don't. It's perfectly > straight, and perfectly flat -- no turning, no bumps. It scares me, > but it's usually over in about a minute, so I do it. > > Today I'm not pedalling, right in the middle of the lane, and I'm > crouched down on the lower handlebars (no aerobars or anything like > that) and my odometer says my top speed was 28 mph, so that's probably > what my speed was. And then the steering starts oscillating back and > forth, at about 2 Hz. It starts weak, but turns into a pretty strong > oscillation in about two seconds, and I'd say I was a second or two > away from a serious crash. I hit the brakes, and as I slow, the > oscillation goes away. > > I stop and walk the bike somewhere safe, and check it out. Wheels are > well secured, steering column is tight, etc. I can't find anything > wrong. I ride it slow at first, no problems, and the later I'm going > down another hill (in a much safer place) and hit 30 mph and no > problems (but so ready to hit those brakes!) > > It's a Giant OCR2 2003 or so -- aluminum frame, fork. It's pretty > much stock, except that it has 700x28c tires, and a luggage rack. ok, the luggage rack, if loaded, can easily start an harmonic - [this has been discussed here before]. were you using it, and what was on it? > And > interrupter brake handles, but I wasn't on the top part of the bars > this time. (This might be relevant -- I do most of my riding with my > hands on the top part of the bars. I don't race, I just ride for > exercise, fun and to get from point A to B.) > > The bike is pretty new to me, but I'm not the first owner. I've > personally only got about 70 miles on it now. No problems like this > before, but this was probably the fastest I'd been on it until today > too. > > This part of my ride makes me nervous, and so I might have been > holding on tighter than usual, but I doubt I was actually shaking > (well, I was after ...) > > I've found a number of pages that talk about this -- > > http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble > > ... but I don't really know what to do about it. I was pretty close > to losing it, and if I had, it would have been very bad. > > One of the articles suggests putting a leg against my top tube, which > I'll try, but is there more that can be done? Something that doesn't > rely on me remembering to ride the right way? > i've experimented with extensively since i had a crash from a shimmy-prone bike and cracked a hip. pain focuses the mind tremendously. here's the formula: shimmy frame + shimmy wheels = disaster. shimmy frame + stiffer wheels = better, but still not perfect. stiff non-shimmy frame + stiffer wheels = rock-solid stability. stiff non-shimmy frame + shimmy wheels = shimmy only if you really try, and it damps itself quickly. all this assumes you're not using the rack. if you are and it's loaded, all the above is academic because racks always have a substantial lateral flex and therefore harmonic. i suggest back-packing your luggage as a much safer solution. |
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#10 |
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A Muzi wrote:
> Doug McLaren wrote: >> So, I'm riding to work today, on the most scary part of my ride -- 0.6 >> miles over a bridge on a pretty busy highway with 65 mph traffic. 12" >> of unridable curb. (Alas, any other options are miles out of my way.) >> It's slightly downhill, so I usually get a pretty good speed going, >> perhaps 35 mph if I pedal 25-30 mph if I don't. It's perfectly >> straight, and perfectly flat -- no turning, no bumps. It scares me, >> but it's usually over in about a minute, so I do it. >> >> Today I'm not pedalling, right in the middle of the lane, and I'm >> crouched down on the lower handlebars (no aerobars or anything like >> that) and my odometer says my top speed was 28 mph, so that's probably >> what my speed was. And then the steering starts oscillating back and >> forth, at about 2 Hz. It starts weak, but turns into a pretty strong >> oscillation in about two seconds, and I'd say I was a second or two >> away from a serious crash. I hit the brakes, and as I slow, the >> oscillation goes away. >> >> I stop and walk the bike somewhere safe, and check it out. Wheels are >> well secured, steering column is tight, etc. I can't find anything >> wrong. I ride it slow at first, no problems, and the later I'm going >> down another hill (in a much safer place) and hit 30 mph and no >> problems (but so ready to hit those brakes!) >> >> It's a Giant OCR2 2003 or so -- aluminum frame, fork. It's pretty >> much stock, except that it has 700x28c tires, and a luggage rack. And >> interrupter brake handles, but I wasn't on the top part of the bars >> this time. (This might be relevant -- I do most of my riding with my >> hands on the top part of the bars. I don't race, I just ride for >> exercise, fun and to get from point A to B.) >> >> The bike is pretty new to me, but I'm not the first owner. I've >> personally only got about 70 miles on it now. No problems like this >> before, but this was probably the fastest I'd been on it until today >> too. >> >> This part of my ride makes me nervous, and so I might have been >> holding on tighter than usual, but I doubt I was actually shaking >> (well, I was after ...) >> >> I've found a number of pages that talk about this -- >> >> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble >> >> ... but I don't really know what to do about it. I was pretty close >> to losing it, and if I had, it would have been very bad. >> >> One of the articles suggests putting a leg against my top tube, which >> I'll try, but is there more that can be done? Something that doesn't >> rely on me remembering to ride the right way? > > The Brandt article is definitive. no it's not! it doesn't properly address frame torsion, lateral wheel stiffness, or the harmonics between the two. Shimmy is a 'phenomenon' not a 'defect'. it's a defect if it's just the frame/normal wheelset. it can and should be addressed. torsional frame stiffness is the #1 way to cure it. old frames with narrow tubesets are notorious for this. modern oversize tubesets are significantly improved. this is not coincidence. > Mike Jacoubowsky reported success with a much heavier weight of grease > in headset bearings than is normally used. If it's chronic, try that > besides damping the top tube with your knee that's band-aid - doesn't address the cause at all. |
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#11 |
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On Jun 13, 5:28*pm, "Mike Jacoubowsky" <Mi...@ChainReaction.com>
wrote: [snip] > A bicycle isn't inherently stable; if it were, you > could give it a push and get it to head down the road a ways. In all cases > (with normal bikes) the bike is dependent upon rider input for stability. > Which is a problem, since a nervous rider does things that reinforce a > tendancy to shimmy. It's all in the FAQ, but I don't think the FAQ hits hard > enough on the fact that a bicycle is inherently unstable until you add a > person to it. That should be enough to get people thinking in the right [snip] Dear Mike, Like you, I thought that a riderless bicycle was inherently unstable and would topple over shortly after being released. Several posters enjoyed setting me straight with movies like this: http://ruina.tam.cornell.edu/resear...e_stability.mov Cheers, Carl Fogel |
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On Jun 13, 6:30 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> jobst.bra...@stanfordalumni.org wrote: > > Doug McLaren wrote: > > >> So, I'm riding to work today, on the most scary part of my ride -- > >> 0.6 miles over a bridge on a pretty busy highway with 65 mph > >> traffic. 12" of unridable curb. (Alas, any other options are miles > >> out of my way.) It's slightly downhill, so I usually get a pretty > >> good speed going, perhaps 35 mph if I pedal 25-30 mph if I don't. > >> It's perfectly straight, and perfectly flat -- no turning, no bumps. > >> It scares me, but it's usually over in about a minute, so I do it. > > >> Today I'm not pedaling, right in the middle of the lane, and I'm > >> crouched down on the lower handlebars (no aero bars or anything like > >> that) and my odometer says my top speed was 28 mph, so that's > >> probably what my speed was. And then the steering starts > >> oscillating back and forth, at about 2 Hz. It starts weak, but > >> turns into a pretty strong oscillation in about two seconds, and I'd > >> say I was a second or two away from a serious crash. I hit the > >> brakes, and as I slow, the oscillation goes away. > > >> I stop and walk the bike somewhere safe, and check it out. Wheels > >> are well secured, steering column is tight, etc. I can't find > >> anything wrong. I ride it slow at first, no problems, and the later > >> I'm going down another hill (in a much safer place) and hit 30 mph > >> and no problems (but so ready to hit those brakes!) > > >> It's a Giant OCR2 2003 or so -- aluminum frame, fork. It's pretty > >> much stock, except that it has 700x28c tires, and a luggage rack. > >> And interrupter brake handles, but I wasn't on the top part of the > >> bars this time. (This might be relevant -- I do most of my riding > >> with my hands on the top part of the bars. I don't race, I just > >> ride for exercise, fun and to get from point A to B.) > > >> The bike is pretty new to me, but I'm not the first owner. I've > >> personally only got about 70 miles on it now. No problems like this > >> before, but this was probably the fastest I'd been on it until today > >> too. > > >> This part of my ride makes me nervous, and so I might have been > >> holding on tighter than usual, but I doubt I was actually shaking > >> (well, I was after ...) > > > You don't need to shake, although that can help initiate shimmy. > > Unless you hold onto the bars differently (loose grip) or can calm you > > response, you are reinforcing the natural frequency of bicycle shimmy. > > Generally the tighter you grip the bars the tenser your arm muscles > > are and worry about this occurring, the more certainly it will be > > initiated, > > >> I've found a number of pages that talk about this -- > > > http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble > > >> ... but I don't really know what to do about it. I was pretty > >> close to losing it, and if I had, it would have been very bad. > > > First you must recognize that your natural response frequency is the > > same as the shimmy so even if you are not initiating it, you are > > reinforcing it. > > jobst, he's a piece of floppy harmonic meat. he can't help reinforce it > if his dynamics coincide with that of the bike. > > > > >> One of the articles suggests putting a leg against my top tube, > >> which I'll try, but is there more that can be done? Something that > >> doesn't rely on me remembering to ride the right way? > > > This should become natural to you. I think experimenting would help. > > Coast no-hands down a grade where this shimmy speed can be achieved > > and see whether it occurs. Then you will know what the natural > > critical speed is and know when to be prepared to suppress it. > > that is a band-aid and does not fix the problem. worse, it doesn't > prevent it from starting, something a proper cure does. > > > > > That it occurs with hands on the bars makes me suspect you are not at > > ease at higher speeds. That is another solution. > > typical - blame the rider. An age ago I was in a group coming down Gates Pass by Tucson, AZ, and a guy on a tall Colnago Super developed a shimmy. It was crazy; the rest of us were having a good time and this poor slob was almost wetting himself, thinking he was going to die. He blamed the bike. Said the headtube angle was too steep. Of course, this was the early 70s and there was a lot of voodoo in cycling. Now that we have Science all the voodoo is gone. Right? tf |
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thefronny@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jun 13, 6:30 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote: >> jobst.bra...@stanfordalumni.org wrote: >>> Doug McLaren wrote: >>>> So, I'm riding to work today, on the most scary part of my ride -- >>>> 0.6 miles over a bridge on a pretty busy highway with 65 mph >>>> traffic. 12" of unridable curb. (Alas, any other options are miles >>>> out of my way.) It's slightly downhill, so I usually get a pretty >>>> good speed going, perhaps 35 mph if I pedal 25-30 mph if I don't. >>>> It's perfectly straight, and perfectly flat -- no turning, no bumps. >>>> It scares me, but it's usually over in about a minute, so I do it. >>>> Today I'm not pedaling, right in the middle of the lane, and I'm >>>> crouched down on the lower handlebars (no aero bars or anything like >>>> that) and my odometer says my top speed was 28 mph, so that's >>>> probably what my speed was. And then the steering starts >>>> oscillating back and forth, at about 2 Hz. It starts weak, but >>>> turns into a pretty strong oscillation in about two seconds, and I'd >>>> say I was a second or two away from a serious crash. I hit the >>>> brakes, and as I slow, the oscillation goes away. >>>> I stop and walk the bike somewhere safe, and check it out. Wheels >>>> are well secured, steering column is tight, etc. I can't find >>>> anything wrong. I ride it slow at first, no problems, and the later >>>> I'm going down another hill (in a much safer place) and hit 30 mph >>>> and no problems (but so ready to hit those brakes!) >>>> It's a Giant OCR2 2003 or so -- aluminum frame, fork. It's pretty >>>> much stock, except that it has 700x28c tires, and a luggage rack. >>>> And interrupter brake handles, but I wasn't on the top part of the >>>> bars this time. (This might be relevant -- I do most of my riding >>>> with my hands on the top part of the bars. I don't race, I just >>>> ride for exercise, fun and to get from point A to B.) >>>> The bike is pretty new to me, but I'm not the first owner. I've >>>> personally only got about 70 miles on it now. No problems like this >>>> before, but this was probably the fastest I'd been on it until today >>>> too. >>>> This part of my ride makes me nervous, and so I might have been >>>> holding on tighter than usual, but I doubt I was actually shaking >>>> (well, I was after ...) >>> You don't need to shake, although that can help initiate shimmy. >>> Unless you hold onto the bars differently (loose grip) or can calm you >>> response, you are reinforcing the natural frequency of bicycle shimmy. >>> Generally the tighter you grip the bars the tenser your arm muscles >>> are and worry about this occurring, the more certainly it will be >>> initiated, >>>> I've found a number of pages that talk about this -- >>> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html >>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble >>>> ... but I don't really know what to do about it. I was pretty >>>> close to losing it, and if I had, it would have been very bad. >>> First you must recognize that your natural response frequency is the >>> same as the shimmy so even if you are not initiating it, you are >>> reinforcing it. >> jobst, he's a piece of floppy harmonic meat. he can't help reinforce it >> if his dynamics coincide with that of the bike. >> >> >> >>>> One of the articles suggests putting a leg against my top tube, >>>> which I'll try, but is there more that can be done? Something that >>>> doesn't rely on me remembering to ride the right way? >>> This should become natural to you. I think experimenting would help. >>> Coast no-hands down a grade where this shimmy speed can be achieved >>> and see whether it occurs. Then you will know what the natural >>> critical speed is and know when to be prepared to suppress it. >> that is a band-aid and does not fix the problem. worse, it doesn't >> prevent it from starting, something a proper cure does. >> >> >> >>> That it occurs with hands on the bars makes me suspect you are not at >>> ease at higher speeds. That is another solution. >> typical - blame the rider. > > An age ago I was in a group coming down Gates Pass by Tucson, AZ, and > a guy on a tall Colnago Super developed a shimmy. It was crazy; the > rest of us were having a good time and this poor slob was almost > wetting himself, thinking he was going to die. He blamed the bike. > Said the headtube angle was too steep. Of course, this was the early > 70s and there was a lot of voodoo in cycling. Now that we have Science > all the voodoo is gone. Right? > apparently voodoo is alive and well if people think this is a problem without a technical solution. farting about with one thigh stuck to the frame is not exactly technical. and 70's colnagos had the old fashioned slim diameter tubes that give more torsional flex, especially in larger sizes. |
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In article
<c9d7726e-5d98-4e09-9313-3da9667a6ad3@g16g2000pri.googlegroups.com>, carlfogel@comcast.net wrote: > On Jun 13, 5:28*pm, "Mike Jacoubowsky" <Mi...@ChainReaction.com> > wrote: > > [snip] > > > A bicycle isn't inherently stable; if it were, you > > could give it a push and get it to head down the road a ways. In all cases > > (with normal bikes) the bike is dependent upon rider input for stability. > > Which is a problem, since a nervous rider does things that reinforce a > > tendancy to shimmy. It's all in the FAQ, but I don't think the FAQ hits > > hard > > enough on the fact that a bicycle is inherently unstable until you add a > > person to it. That should be enough to get people thinking in the right > > [snip] > > Dear Mike, > > Like you, I thought that a riderless bicycle was inherently unstable > and would topple over shortly after being released. > > Several posters enjoyed setting me straight with movies like this: > > http://ruina.tam.cornell.edu/resear...e_stability.mov I don't think the first part was news to me, since I remember the phenomenon of "ghost riding" bicycles as a kid, but the second part of the video, where he slaps the saddle of the ghost-riding bike and it RECOVERS was a bit of an eye-opener. And that on a bike moving slowly enough that he was able to chase it down in sandals, -- Ryan Cousineau rcousine@gmail.com http://www.wiredcola.com/ "In other newsgroups, they killfile trolls." "In rec.bicycles.racing, we coach them." |
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http://ruina.tam.cornell.edu/resear...e_stability.mov
Wait a sec. You mean I have to take personal responsibility if I crash? It's not my bike's fault? --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReactionBicycles.com <carlfogel@comcast.net> wrote in message news:c9d7726e-5d98-4e09-9313-3da9667a6ad3@g16g2000pri.googlegroups.com... On Jun 13, 5:28 pm, "Mike Jacoubowsky" <Mi...@ChainReaction.com> wrote: [snip] > A bicycle isn't inherently stable; if it were, you > could give it a push and get it to head down the road a ways. In all cases > (with normal bikes) the bike is dependent upon rider input for stability. > Which is a problem, since a nervous rider does things that reinforce a > tendancy to shimmy. It's all in the FAQ, but I don't think the FAQ hits > hard > enough on the fact that a bicycle is inherently unstable until you add a > person to it. That should be enough to get people thinking in the right [snip] Dear Mike, Like you, I thought that a riderless bicycle was inherently unstable and would topple over shortly after being released. Several posters enjoyed setting me straight with movies like this: http://ruina.tam.cornell.edu/resear...e_stability.mov Cheers, Carl Fogel |
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