JoanMcWench said:
So, one of my spokes broke in an accident recently & I was wondering if I need to replace my wheel or should I fix the spoke? I ask because i've heard that if I replace the spoke the stability of the wheel might still be compromised. Is there a dramatic difference between a new wheel & a repaired one/
FWIW. I think that your broken spoke is a perfect opportunity for YOU to learn part of the ins-and-outs of wheel building ...
Because, unless you are confident of the shop that is going to replace the spoke, you will probably be inviting future problems ...
THAT IS, you will probably have better results in the long run if you treat this as a DIY endeavor ...
... because ONE key to a successful spoke replacement involves DE-TENSIONING
all of the spokes ...
... and then, re-tensioning & re-truing the wheel as if it was a new build.
You do not need to make the spokes completely slack ...
Keep track of how many turns you loosen each spoke (
that is, be consistent!!!) and it will be easier to re-tension & re-true the wheel ...
Depending on the wheel's original lacing, it is good to work around the wheel's circumference in thirds ...
So, let's say it is a 36h wheel & the spoke that is broken is immediately adjacent to the valve ...
Count 13 spokes (
that is, one third + one ... ) over and loosen the spoke two-or-three turns of the spoke wrench (720º+) ...
OR (
presuming all the nipples are the same -- DT nipples are different from other brands), until the edge of the thread shows on the hub side of the nipple ...
Count 13 more spokes over and loosen the spoke ...
Continue until you reach the broken spoke ...
Replace the spoke ...
Presuming you bought a replacement spoke which is the
exact SAME length as the other spokes, then tighten the nipple until the same amount of spoke is viewable in the nipple when viewed from the rim side (
that means the rim tape need to be removed, of course).
Now, with all the spokes equally un-tensioned,
SLOWLY-and-METHODICALLY re-tension ALL of the spokes by repeating the process of partially tensioning the spokes an equal amount ...
Just turn the spoke wrench 360º, first ...
Then, 180º ...
Depending on how much you loosened the "good" spokes, initially, now begin making ~1/4 turn adjustments with the spoke wrench.
If you were methodical, then the wheel should be round/concentric ...
Now, you simply need to tweak the rim until it is laterally true.
A tensiometer is beneficial, but not necessary.
You can do it!