KH 2007 Products- details & info are here



john_childs wrote:
> After looking at the new rims I'm thinking that a KHU Coker rim would be
> pretty neat. Can you do a Stan's No-Tubes conversion on a rim with
> drilled holes in it?



BRILLIANT! a drilled coker rim would lose g's like crazy.


07 stuff looks great Kris!

I would like to know how much stuff weighs though. I like how the
koxx-one site lists weight of all their stuff. I know you have a pretty
crazy weight-strength on all your components, but I still like to see
the numbers.

I (as well as others I'm sure) would also like to know the effective
flange diameter is on the moment hub so I know what size spokes to get
for my rim.


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the dioflip
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max_pfeifer wrote:
> AARGH now my KH uni is out of date!

Mine and your KH uni will only become out of date when they stop making
replacement spare parts for it. Roger said early in this thread that
they'll still have the KH/Onza cranks for years to come. He even sells
-cottered- cranks for really old unis!

> Only one 24" this time?

I noticed that too. I had trouble choosing between the 2005 XC and
Freeride models as they were virtually twins, but eventually went for
the XC for it's shorter 150mm cranks.

I notice that 150mm is now the default crank length for the 2007 24"
muni. I wonder what the "extreme" muni riders will think of that?


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danger_uni wrote:
>
> Given that the wider rim contains more metal, have better geometry to
> resist twist, and that the rims are spec'd standard with eyelets and
> the best available alloy (7005H-T6), they seem to be about the same
> strength as the 2005 rims (the strong ones without grooves =)).
>
> Cheers,
>
> Kris



Yeah those rims with the groves sucked :p
It wasn't your fault so I forgive you :D
But will those cranks fit on a Koxx hub and will the Koxx hub fit in
this new frame??

PM


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Probailer2

john_childs


> Mmmmm... Sexy welds.
>
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Is the street saddle similar to the UDC gel? The profile and
construction sound similar.

Fusion Freeride sounds something I should upgrade to at some point.
Are there any detailed pictures of what the cutout in the foam looks
like?


--
mark williamson

Dave: Just a question. What use is a unicyle with no seat? And no
pedals!
Mark: To answer a question with a question: What use is a skateboard?
Dave: Skateboards have wheels.
Mark: My wheel has a wheel!
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Daytripper63 wrote:
> Thanks, please keep us informed on the geared muni, are you only gearing
> the KH24 or the KH29 as well? I am ready to buy



The geared version will be available in any wheelsize. Sorry about
the delay but we want to get it right the first time!

Kris


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mornish wrote:
> how much are the hub/cranks going to cost?
>
>
> also, is the extra stability really helpful? I'm into natural trials,
> and my tire folds over when jumping from/ onto uneven surfaces. would
> the wider rim help eliminate that?




Prices for everything are being figured out right now. Hub/cranks
should be approximately similar in price to the 2006 ones.

Yes the wider rim is a LOT more stable. Even with the holes it is
actually very slightly heavier due to the extra width, but the extra
stability is such an advantage that I think it's worth it. The weight
of the assembled uni is the same as the 2006 uni.

Kris


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timbob1907 wrote:
> Will the old Fusion cover work on the new street seat. You should sell
> the new gel seperately to people who want it for their old gel seat and
> for people who have carbon fiber seat bases I would buy it.



The old fusion cover will work with the new seats.

I can't really sell the foam or gel separately. It has to do with the
way it's made- it's injected onto the saddle frame as an integral part
of the assembly process and probably would cost almost as much to make
separately. Plus people getting the carbon base for the first time
need all the other parts anyway.

Kris


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cegli wrote:
> Wow the new stuff looks great, I'm even more excited about the geared
> mountain uni. I have a little bit of an off-topic question for you.
> I'm going to UBC right now and I know you use to go there. I was
> wondering if you're still attending as a graduate student, or ever
> still ride around UBC. I haven't seen any other unicyclist yet,
> unfortuantely.
>
> Good work on the new line, I can't wait to actually try one out
> sometime.



Email me at [email protected]- there's a vancouver uni club and I ride
at UBC a lot.

K.


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Johaaan wrote:
> Whats the weight of the 20"?



Weights of the assembled unis are about the same as the 2006 unis:
KH20: 5.65 kg
KH24: 7.1 kg
KH29: 6.4 kg

Note- I'm in the process of getting a new scale and will post complete
weights as soon as I do that.

Kris


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Same outside bearing dimensions as the old hub? Any chance of making a
converter so they'd fit a uni made for profiles?

Also, stiffer seat comparable to a myata with a sniffener plate or a
viscount?


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gkmac wrote:
> <snip>
> I notice that 150mm is now the default crank length for the 2007 24"
> muni. I wonder what the "extreme" muni riders will think of that?



In 1998, my original custom KH24 had 175mm cranks, because they were
the only thing I could get. Then from 2002-2004 the KH24 cranks were
170mm, and then 165 in 2005, and then 150's in 2006.

I resisted using the 150's for a long time because I didn't think I'd
have enough control for technical downhill. But then finally I tried
it. At first I spun out a bit on steep downs, but ultimately I like it
better, for a few reasons: it's easier to absorb impact when your
cranks are in the vertical (non-optimal) direction, you can pedal
faster after drops, it feels smoother in chundry ground, and there's
less likelihood that your pedals will hit the ground. For riding long
downhills, having a brake is definately an advantage for shorter
cranks.

But it's personal preference which is why the 165's are still
available.

Kris


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jake_amos wrote:
> i wanna buy the new freeride
>
> miles do you have an msn account?



not MSN, but I have AIM.


--
mornish

tobbogonist wrote:
> that was neat, now i only have to put it to use.
> parents banned my uni due to low school marks so if there are any nerds
> out there with a kind heart, i have a psychology assignment that is a
> few weeks over due, it is on intelligence.
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danger_uni wrote:
> In 1998, my original custom KH24 had 175mm cranks, because they were the
> only thing I could get. Then from 2002-2004 the KH24 cranks were
> 170mm, and then 165 in 2005, and then 150's in 2006.
>
> I resisted using the 150's for a long time because I didn't think I'd
> have enough control for technical downhill. But then finally I tried
> it. At first I spun out a bit on steep downs, but ultimately I like it
> better, for a few reasons: it's easier to absorb impact when your
> cranks are in the vertical (non-optimal) direction, you can pedal
> faster after drops, it feels smoother in chundry ground, and there's
> less likelihood that your pedals will hit the ground. For riding long
> downhills, having a brake is definately an advantage for shorter
> cranks.
>
> But it's personal preference which is why the 165's are still
> available.
>
> Kris



I'm like 5' tall and have been using my trials for muni, but It's
really slow and doesn't roll over much stuff, but when I tried a KH24
with 150's it felt like I lost all power when the pedals were vertical.
would I be able to ride muni with 140's (137's)?


--
mornish

tobbogonist wrote:
> that was neat, now i only have to put it to use.
> parents banned my uni due to low school marks so if there are any nerds
> out there with a kind heart, i have a psychology assignment that is a
> few weeks over due, it is on intelligence.
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Great work Kris!

Have you changed the design so the splined part of the axle doesn't
extend through the inside diameter of the bearing? On my 05 KH24 it
seems there is too much play between the inside diameter of the bearing
and the splined axle. The axle should be smooth as it passes through
the bearing.
-thanks


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danger_uni wrote:
> In 1998, my original custom KH24 had 175mm cranks, because they were the
> only thing I could get. Then from 2002-2004 the KH24 cranks were
> 170mm, and then 165 in 2005, and then 150's in 2006.
>
> I resisted using the 150's for a long time because I didn't think I'd
> have enough control for technical downhill. But then finally I tried
> it. At first I spun out a bit on steep downs, but ultimately I like it
> better, for a few reasons: it's easier to absorb impact when your
> cranks are in the vertical (non-optimal) direction, you can pedal
> faster after drops, it feels smoother in chundry ground, and there's
> less likelihood that your pedals will hit the ground. For riding long
> downhills, having a brake is definately an advantage for shorter
> cranks.
>
> But it's personal preference which is why the 165's are still
> available.
>
> Kris



That's funny, I ride a 24X2.6 muni with 150's, and I recently tried a
3" duro on it with the 150's, and I absolutely couldn't stand that
tire/crank size combination. Even small uphills became a chore, and
downhills I could do easily before became "sketchy". Any kind of trials
on it just seemed impossible, even just riding around is a pain because
of the crank size and the heavy 3" duro. With the 2.6 Kenda tire it's
just fine. I wish I could use a 3" tire without getting new cranks, I
ride free ride/northshore muni mostly.

I thought maybe it was just because I wasn't used to the heavy 3" tire,
but after a month I got sick of it and switched back.


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Hmm.. now my muni has old technology! when the geared hubs come out Im
getting one on My 26". The only problem is I like my 175's on the 26. I
guess I could get used to 165's though. The cranks look awsome! They
are similiar to the koxx cranks but I like'm more because they are
polished. And like you said that should keep scratches off, or at least
not show them as easy as the powdercoated black ones. I think Im
jealous of that rim too. I need a 26" version of it.. lol.


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