SS/Track Wheelset?

[QtDL]

Can one of you SS/track/fixie experts comment on this wheelset? Quality, etc? The tubes and tires are included in the set and they seem to be pretty reasonably priced. If they are junk, please feel free to recommend another set.

I'm trying to keep costs low for a DIY SS/fixie bike. Any replies are greatly appreciated. Much thanks!
http://www.eighthinch.com/8-eighthinch-amelia-fixed-gear-single-speed-wheelset.aspx

 

[alfeng]

The price is "okay" ... BUT, I do NOT know what hubs those wheels have ...

• Do you know?

I do not know anything about the rims, either. If those are not the tires you want to use, then it's an unwanted extra which you will be paying for.

• If you can DIY, then re-spacing & re-dishing an "old" rear wheel which normally uses a Freewheel can often cost you less ... If you can DIY, then you can always re-lace any existing rear wheel with a "track" hub OR an older Freewheel-type rear hub ...
  • presuming that you a have a "track" frame which has 120mm rear spacing, you will probably need to remove a spacer to narrow the hub's Over Locknut Distance ...
  • a solid axle is preferred if you opt for a Fixie
  • a hollow axle + quick release is 'okay' if you are using a Single Speed Freewheel
  Regardless, if cost is really a factor, then you should look at eBay for price comparisons and/or the purchase ... Consider buying an old/vintage bike (buy it locally at a garage sale if you can to preveent a shipping expense) in reasonably good condition whose frame is the right size for YOU ... Plus, a BMX (3/32") Freewheel Plus, tools (as needed)

And convert it, first, before ponying up for your Single Speed. When compared with buying the rims, spokes, hubs + tires/tubes separately, it's a good deal AS LONG AS it's a hubset & rims which you think that you want to use. BTW. "Formula" brand hubs are okay ... FYI. Eighth Inch sells their overstock on eBay from time to time.

 

[QtDL]

I do already have a SS/fixie frameset - actually a complete bike but most of the components are junk quality (it was cheap to begin with). The rims and tires are the first things that need to be replaced so I might as well get complete set if the price is okay. I'm replacing the handlebars as well. I asked customer service and they said the hubs are flip-flop "EighthInch branded hubs manufactured by Karbona". I'm also looking to replace the crankset as well. I just wasn't sure about the site or company in general. Their components are pretty reasonably priced.

 

[alfeng]

Quote:Originally Posted by QtDL .I do already have a SS/fixie frameset - actually a complete bike but most of the components are junk quality (it was cheap to begin with). The rims and tires are the first things that need to be replaced so I might as well get complete set if the price is okay. I'm replacing the handlebars as well. I asked customer service and they said the hubs are flip-flop "EighthInch branded hubs manufactured by Karbona". I'm also looking to replace the crankset as well. I just wasn't sure about the site or company in general. Their components are pretty reasonably priced.


Oh, whether or not "Eighthinch" is a good company or not is a slightly different question ... While I am not directly familiar with Karbona hubs, I am going to presume that they are made in the same factory as a lot of other (and, Formula) house brand hubs are made in; so, they should be "okay" for most people. Now, as far as the Eighthinch brand, I will say that it is good/reliable. I have one of their Scrambler framesets.

• Other than a MICHE track hub + ACS Freewheel, I chose to outfit the frame with cast-offs from my Road bikes (including the Fork) ...
  
  

FWIW. Because I'm not hip enough to ride a Fixie on the street, my ONE (?) complaint about the EighthInch Scrambler frame is that it needs a third, intermediate rear brake cable guide on the underside of the Top Tube ... the immediate (and current) option (until I am motivated enough to add a permanent cable guide) is to strap the brake cable's housing down with a zip tie. BTW. Based on a first hand mistake which I made which I quickly corrected when-reality-intruded, there is probably only ONE type of crankset which you should not use -- any 135BCD 4-arm Campagnolo crankset should be avoided because it will be a nuisance if you want to change the chainring in-a-hurry! Consequently, the above bike is pictured with the slightly more plebeian 5-arm Chorus crankset (102mm square taper BB) with a 48t Gebhardt chainring Obviously, 130BCD cranks are legion, and may be a better choice if you can find a suitable chainring (tooth count AND cosmetics). I had an Octalink based DA crank (also with a 48t chainring) on, briefly, but opted for the Chorus crankset for cosmetic reasons. Ultimately, your budget & aesthetic sensibilities are your only limitations on the components you choose to replace your current stuff with.

 

[QtDL]

I was probably just going to get the EighthInch branded crankset (in black or silver) since it's pretty inexpensive.
http://www.eighthinch.com/13-eighthinch-courier-crankset-144BCD.aspx

 

[alfeng]

FYI. The smallest chainring for a crankset with a 144BCD is 42t ... You just have to decide if THAT works for you ...

 

[QtDL]

Originally Posted by alfeng

FYI. The smallest chainring for a crankset with a 144BCD is 42t ...

• You just have to decide if THAT works for you ...

Since I'm not too well versed in SS/fixie parts I have no idea what that means. Lol. What about the one below listed in eBay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271569086001?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

[alfeng]

Since I'm not too well versed in SS/fixie parts I have no idea what that means. Lol. What about the one below listed in eBay? http://www.ebay.com/itm/271569086001?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

BUT, just how mediocre are the current components on your bike? AND, what are you trying to achieve which your current crankset and/or wheelset won't allow you to do?

 

[QtDL]

Originally Posted by alfeng





BUT, just how mediocre are the current components on your bike?

AND, what are you trying to achieve which your current crankset and/or wheelset won't allow you to do?

How mediocre? VERY junk quality even though it is brand new. I'm not going to post a link to it and open myself up to endless mockery. Lol. The cranks and rims are PLASTIC. I simply bought the bike to use the frame/fork, seatpost, stem, and chain. So I need a new wheelset, freewheel, crankset, bars/tape, and rear brake/brake lever. It's just a project bike and cost me $90. The frame/fork alone is worth that considering I couldn't find a cheaper frameset otherwise. That is why I can buy all new components and not feel like I spent a ton refurbishing it.

I have everything picked out (pretty much all on eBay) except for the crankset since I'm not too knowledgeable about those. That is why I came seeking advice of someone who is more familiar with SS/fixies.

I should be able to use this brake on a SS/track frame right? Or would this one be more suitable? I prefer to just have a rear brake - I never even use the front brake on my road bike.

 

[alfeng]

FWIW. Because the components which you are asking about are for a "project bike" (which I always find to be an admirable enterprise), can I suggest to you that BEFORE you pony up for a new Road bike (which I think is on your agenda) that you take advantage of the fact that you have an existing Road bike whose components you can "borrow" (as I did for MY Eighthinch frame) until you are ready to commit new money to the enterprise?

• You will ONLY (?) need a rear wheel/hub which fits into your Track frame's dropouts ... You probably won't need a caliper with a 57-75 reach ... The SRAM Rival rear brake caliper (or equivalent) SHOULD work on your frame (presuming that it has been drilled to accept a rear brake caliper and/or that the frame has a rear stay bridge which is located close enough to use a "normal" reach brake caliper) ... Regardless, you will need to measure the distance between the brake's mounting hole AND the rim's braking surface ... N.B. You need to understand that the [color=ff0000]distance changes[/color] for the rear brake caliper's pads on a bike with horizontal dropouts as the wheel is moved forward-and-rearward when the Cog and/or chainring is changed ...

THAT's my roundabout way of saying that temporarily upgrading your existing Road bike's displaced items with components that you think you want to use on your future bike seems like a better idea to me. Just choose-and-buy components for your existing Road bike with your future bike in mind since "the plan" would be to move them over when the time comes. BTW. In lieu of posting a picture of your Track frame, could you post a picture of your Road bike so that I could have a better idea of what you are working with AND why you think the look of your Road bike isn't currently acceptable to you? YOU may find that another season of tweaking your current Road bike will be time well spent before you pony up for a new frame ... AND, you may be able to better decide on which components you prefer ... Unless you have arthritis, I suggest you eschew the notion of either Shimano or Campagnolo's electronic drive trains because Campagnolo's mechanical shifters will (IMO) achieve similar shifting efficiency.

 

[QtDL]

I don't have a problem with my existing road bike so I don't plan on scrapping parts from it. I just want to have a second bike that's a SS/fixie. Don't some people here have more than one bike? Or build bikes from scratch? Lol. I didn't think what I'm doing is wrong. I like learning how things work so this is just a fun project.

 

[alfeng]

I don't have a problem with my existing road bike so I don't plan on scrapping parts from it. I just want to have a second bike that's a SS/fixie. Don't some people here have more than one bike? Or build bikes from scratch? Lol. I didn't think what I'm doing is wrong. I like learning how things work so this is just a fun project.

I believe that you missed my point ... The object is NOT to leave your current Road bike unrideable BUT RATHER to take advantage of the fact that you are looking at the possibility of a new Road bike frameset ...

• and presumably, "new"/(another set of) components ...

Which means that you could selectively try the NEW components-or-group on your current frame and use some of the removed parts temporarily-or-permanently on your Single Speed frameset rather than spending money on additional parts in the here-and-now when you may have a crankset/etc. which you may want to replace sooner-than-later .... AND THEN, down the road, you may decide to put the "borrowed" components back onto your current Road bike & possibly buy a better crankset + wheels with nicer hubs for your Single Speed bike ... or, not!?!

 

[bicyclez]

Go with some formula8/cpx22 mavic or formula8/weinman. I can say there decent wheelsets from experience at about the same price