Alps advice (Mt Buet)

Hi all,

Instead of spendind my 21st in the pub, I've opted for a
more memorable alpine ascent ;o) I initially wanted to do
mont blanc but have decided that I'm not ready yet, as an
alternative, and so I can still see the beast, I want to
climb Mt Buet. I have never climbed anything that big before
(in fact the highest I've gone is Ben Nevis). Can Anybody
offer advice as to what I'll ned to take with me?

I'm a keen rock climber so am pretty good with a rope and
associated kit, I've also got all the warm clothing and down
bag (from much time spent hiking in the lakes (in Winter))
plus walking crampons and ice axe.

I feel like I have all the correct gear and knowledge but
wanted to be sure and know if there's anything else worth
mentioning? Is it worth walking roped together, or would
that be slightly OTT for a relative mole hill?

We have, in total, 5 and a half days to make the journey
there (by car), the ascent and the return trip. That should
give us two days to actualy walk up it. I know it's only
4000m but as I've never done anything this high, I was
wondering if that would be enough time to to acclimatise? I
know not to push my luck if AMS shows it's face.

Thanks for any advice. dum, dum, dum...another one bites the
dust. dum, dum, dum

Which Mont Buet is that? The one I know of is only 3096m.

The equipment you will need in the Alps depends very much on
the mountain and the time of year. When are you going?

Acclimatisation varies a lot from person to person. In 2
days you won't acclimatise much, but this shouldn't be too
much of a problem for a 4000m peak as you probably wouldn't
be camping above 3500m, and sleeping altitude is the most
important thing. Even when fully acclimatised you will move
much more slowly at high altitudes, so expect to take longer
than usual when you get above about 3000.

Adrian

"Electric Death Ferret" <fishing108815@aol.com.uk.com> wrote
in message news:20040512163012.10255.00001289@mb-
m05.aol.com...
> Hi all,
>
> Instead of spendind my 21st in the pub, I've opted for a
> more memorable
alpine
> ascent ;o) I initially wanted to do mont blanc but have
> decided that I'm
not
> ready yet, as an alternative, and so I can still see the
> beast, I want to
climb
> Mt Buet. I have never climbed anything that big before (in
> fact the
highest
> I've gone is Ben Nevis). Can Anybody offer advice as to
> what I'll ned to
take
> with me?
>
> I'm a keen rock climber so am pretty good with a rope and
> associated kit,
I've
> also got all the warm clothing and down bag (from much
> time spent hiking
in the
> lakes (in Winter)) plus walking crampons and ice axe.
>
> I feel like I have all the correct gear and knowledge but
> wanted to be
sure and
> know if there's anything else worth mentioning? Is it
> worth walking roped together, or would that be slightly
> OTT for a relative mole hill?
>
> We have, in total, 5 and a half days to make the journey
> there (by car),
the
> ascent and the return trip. That should give us two days
> to actualy walk
up it.
> I know it's only 4000m but as I've never done anything
> this high, I was wondering if that would be enough time to
> to acclimatise? I know not to
push my
> luck if AMS shows it's face.
>
> Thanks for any advice. dum, dum, dum...another one bites
> the dust. dum, dum, dum

Get a guide!

--

"Electric Death Ferret" <fishing108815@aol.com.uk.com> wrote
in message news:20040512163012.10255.00001289@mb-
m05.aol.com...
> Hi all,
>
> Instead of spendind my 21st in the pub, I've opted for a
> more memorable
alpine
> ascent ;o) I initially wanted to do mont blanc but have
> decided that I'm
not
> ready yet, as an alternative, and so I can still see the
> beast, I want to
climb
> Mt Buet. I have never climbed anything that big before (in
> fact the
highest
> I've gone is Ben Nevis). Can Anybody offer advice as to
> what I'll ned to
take
> with me?
>
> I'm a keen rock climber so am pretty good with a rope and
> associated kit,
I've
> also got all the warm clothing and down bag (from much
> time spent hiking
in the
> lakes (in Winter)) plus walking crampons and ice axe.
>
> I feel like I have all the correct gear and knowledge but
> wanted to be
sure and
> know if there's anything else worth mentioning? Is it
> worth walking roped together, or would that be slightly
> OTT for a relative mole hill?
>
> We have, in total, 5 and a half days to make the journey
> there (by car),
the
> ascent and the return trip. That should give us two days
> to actualy walk
up it.
> I know it's only 4000m but as I've never done anything
> this high, I was wondering if that would be enough time to
> to acclimatise? I know not to
push my
> luck if AMS shows it's face.
>
> Thanks for any advice. dum, dum, dum...another one bites
> the dust. dum, dum, dum

In article <20040512163012.10255.00001289@mb-m05.aol.com>,
Electric Death Ferret <fishing108815@aol.com.uk.com> writes

>I want to climb Mt Buet.

Hi EDF!

I'll assume you are referring to Le Buet (3094m) in the
Chamonix valley.

You do not mention when you are going. The following refers
to the end of the summer season (September). In June through
July, snow conditions are likely to be a more serious
consideration, but I do not know specifically for this hill.

I have climbed the hill (alone), but it was something like
23/24 years ago so my memory of it is hazy. As I recall, in
high summer season it was a walk requiring no technical
climbing skills on rock, snow or ice. There are no glacier
crossings.

The weather may be good enough to go up and down in minimal
clothing, but I would carry the gear I usually take in the
UK in winter - include a bivvy bag for emergencies. Check
the weather forecast in Chamonix and respond accordingly -
you would not want to be caught in an alpine storm even on a
relatively minor hill.

I will undoubtedly have carried ice axe and crampons
because, like you, I did not know with any certainty what
to expect. However, I am reasonably sure that I did not
use either.

A quick google search pulled up commercial walking holiday
sites which advertise itineraries with an ascent of Le Buet
included. The holidays are described as walking trips
suitable for reasonably fit hill walkers.

The companies appear to include a night in the nearby hut
(Refuge de la Pierre a Berard). However, I found it to be a
reasonable day trip from the valley. I caught an early train
from Chamonix to *Le Buet station?*, walked up a beautiful
valley in the early morning sunshine to the hut (no memory
of this building at all), climbed the hill, sat on the top
in glorious weather and enjoyed the spectacular views for an
age, then reversed my route. I was back in Cham. some time
in the late afternoon. I was quite fit at the time - you may
prefer a two day trip.

You will almost certainly feel the effects of altitude, but
acclimatisation should not be a serious issue at 3,000m max.
However, if your five day period allows, you could start by
doing a simple alpine walk eg cable car to Plan de
l'Aguille, walk to Montenvers, walk down or catch the train.
This will give you a feel for the terrain, and an
opportunity to assess how you are going.

For someone with no alpine experience and with very limited
time, Le Buet is a great opportunity to get in among the
peaks, to climb a big hill (relatively), and to enjoy some
of the most spectacular mountain views in Europe, and
without the acclimatisation problems and risks of more
serious ascents - enjoy.

Disclaimer: this is not authoritative advice, just a
reflection of my personal experience. Consult guide books
and maps. Seek advice about conditions for the time of year
you are going - if you anticipate the need for ice axe and
crampons, don't go on the hill without learning how to use
them first. If you doubt your ability to do it on your own,
sign up for a professionally run holiday, or hire a guide /
join a guided party in Chamonix.

HTH
--

Russ Clare

Sorry if this top posts, it's the AOL news client and
although I work with computers for a living, I have no idea
how to use it.

Oops, I knew it was 3096m but in a slightly tipsy state when
I posted that, I thought "I'll round it up, it's only 4m
away from 4000". I know. I'm not usually that stupid. ;o)

We're planning on going On the 22nd May. Although as I was
typing this, there was bad news and we *might* have to
postpone until mid June.

I don't want to get a guide either, climbing, in my eyes at
least, isn't about being escorted up a mountain.

Thanks

Thankyou so much. That was a very helpful reply. dum, dum,
dum...another one bites the dust. dum, dum, dum

"Electric Death Ferret" <fishing108815@aol.com.uk.com> wrote in message
news:20040513064754.28313.00000495@mb-m28.aol.com...
> Sorry if this top posts, it's the AOL news client and
> although I work with computers for a living, I have no
> idea how to use it.
>
> Oops, I knew it was 3096m but in a slightly tipsy state
> when I posted
that, I
> thought "I'll round it up, it's only 4m away from 4000". I
> know. I'm not usually that stupid. ;o)
>

3096 + 4 = 3100

or am I wrong?

Rory