Recent content by PeterF

Campy guy too, but if those were my choices,I'd opt for Ultegra 6700 (assuming this is the choice). A buddy of mine just built his Cervelo RS with 6700 (he was on DA 7800 previously) and crank stiffness and front derailleur shifting is outstanding. It looks good too and Ultera has a long...

2 things I can think of in order of what I would try: 1. The cable tension may not be tight enough. There may be a barrel adjuster along the cable housing line that you will need to turn so it essentially lengthens the housing (thus shortening the cable). This can also be done by shifting the...

I saw that interview as well, and thought it was a bit weak. I'm sorry, crossed up or not, a road bike with fairly standard gearing shouldn't be subject to suck. Chain too long due to the berner-design pulleys and b screw not adjusted properly. SRAM is trying to save face as this rather...

I read that he was in the 38/12t combo. I'm speculating here, but he was using a modified rear d (Berner design, larger pulleys), and a gear combo that would provide lots of slack. Perhaps the chain was too long and/or the b screw wasn't properly adjusted. Ironic that the time he lost on...

The video on youtube shows the rear wheel locking up. Looked like classic chain-suck to me.

And a front flat is rare but scary when it happens. The front tire wears slower but it can't be ignored. If I ever rotate tires it's only for trainer/roller purposes but never for the road.

I buy tires in sets of three as a 2-1 ratio of back to front seems to work fine. I get at least 3-4k miles out of tires and then they get relegated to roller-duty. I usually only pitch them if there is a bad cut or they are worn beyond recognition. If I still raced, I would keep a fresh set...

Ageed. Sweet bike, enjoy it once the issues are resolved.

I've been a campy guy since 2004, before that I rode Shimano for 12 years. I found when I switched that Campy levers fit my hands better, the thumb shifter is great, and I love the front derailleur trim. I still use sq taper bb's on my 3 bikes (2 road and 1 cross) partly because I don't like...

Agreed. I have Nokon cables on my road bike. They get a little droopy in the rear just like the photo above. For the road it's not really an issue, but would go for a piece of rigid plastic housing on the MTB for that section. It's just asking to snag something like that.

I have signed up for a 100k ride in Western Massachusetts called the D2R2 (Deerfield Dirt Road Randonee)in August. My plan is to use my cycle cross bike with the easiest gearing I can put together (34/26 or 29 will be my easiest gear). I own some 26mm road-training tire and I own some 30mm...

They last pretty long but they are magnets for dirt and grime. I have had friends ask me to service their bikes and the front d's were pretty much frozen due to lack of care. Also, the front d cable and housing should be cleaned and replaced as needed.

Personally, I would always choose a double (compact)over a triple unless I absolutely needed the super low gearing a triple provides. Even on my MTB, I rarely use the small ring. BUT, it sounds like your FD needs adjusting as was just mentioned, so that would be my first action.

130 miles a week is not insignificant (good job)and you may want to look into road shoes/pedals. Road shoes are lighter and stiffer providing better energy transfer and efficiency. Not easy or fun to walk in, but that's up to you to determine if that's a priority. For me, my riding consists...

Do you use the quatrro cleat on the road bike or just the regular eggbeater road pedal with the hard rubber side supports?