Recent content by Retro Grouch

Expensive I'll grant you. Complicated? I don't think so.

If you're positive that you want to use a conventional 53/39 crankset, get the braze-on (bond-on?) because it's cleaner looking. If you have any doubt about maybe wanting to try a compact at some point in the future, I'd go with a clamp-on for better adjustability.

I'm in the process of building a wheelset for personal use. I decided to go old school and use bees wax for spoke prep. I can tell you that it's a bit more labor intensive than Wheelsmith Spoke Prep and way more labor intensive than linseed oil. I'll let you know in about 6 months if I think...

Probably not. The 10-speed chain will be too narrow to mesh over the track chainring.

You really have 2 questions: How damaged is the bike? and How to squeeze the repair or replacement cost out of the lady? The second answer is easy. If you put any value on your own time you probably aren't going to get enough money from this lady to come out ahead. I wouldn't count on getting...

Yup, you're right. Specialized stems and seatposts are what you'd get if Thompson had kept a closer eye on the cost-o-meter insted of just trying to make the best product he could.

Easier than you think. Forget about the bike and start shopping for a bike store. What you are looking for are people who sound knowledgable, are easy to talk to and seem more interested in you and how you plan to use the bike than in showing you everything they have. Once you find the right...

I think that I'd either go down a model or up a model. It looks to me like the main thing you get over the 1.2 is the low spoke count wheels. That's a real visable upgrade just not one I'm be particularly interested in. If you go up to the 2.1 you get Tiagra shifters that don't have the...

I generally touch up the paint with clear nail polish. It's much less distracting than a "not quite" color match.

Keep in mind that, if your touch up paint doesn't match PERFECTLY you might as well paint it yellow because the mismatch will draw your eye to the nick.

That's one of the drawbacks of spin-on freewheels. Everytime that you ride up a hill your freewheel tightens itself. The longer it's been in place the harder it is to get it off.

How experienced are you at wheel building? I wouldn't recommend Revolutions for one's first wheel build. They wind up a lot and, as a result, can be more frustrating to work with.

At price point the bikes themselves are really pretty similar and the most significant differences are probably in the dealer. If you're happy with the dealer, I'd say buy the Scott.

Mavic Open Pro rims on Ultegra hubs. Not the lightest, not the most aero and not the greatest bling factor but a wheelset that you'll never have to apologize for in any company. Generally $200 to $250 from any of the larger internet houses. Bang for the buck it's a pretty hard combination...

First, take a good look at your chain. You can't add just 1 link. The quick, dirty test is to gingerly try to shift into your big/big combination. If it'll shift up into that combination (my bet) and still give you a little chain slack you're good-to-go. Don't try doing this by pedaling up...