1" Threaded forks to threadless conversion



janiejones

New Member
Jul 8, 2005
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I have a steel frame with threaded 1" forks and headset - I was hoping to change over to a new forkset with threadless ahead stem, headset and forks - are there any problems with this.

I know how the threadless works, I use it on a couple of other bikes, but I've never changed from threaded to threadless. Is it just a matter of changing all the parts I've mentioned.

Thanks.
 
My Road Bike has 1&1/8 T/less, My TRY Bike 1" Threaded, both work OK!! If it's a steel frame, why change? If it aint broke...... :rolleyes:
 
It's not a problem to make the switch. You'll need a new stem. You'll need spacers. You'll need the tools. The new steerer tube will NOT be the same length; do not cut it until you're sure of the length. Have fun. :D
 
janiejones said:
I have a steel frame with threaded 1" forks and headset - I was hoping to change over to a new forkset with threadless ahead stem, headset and forks - are there any problems with this.

I know how the threadless works, I use it on a couple of other bikes, but I've never changed from threaded to threadless. Is it just a matter of changing all the parts I've mentioned.
The most obvious disadvantage is the cost ... it IS mostly just a matter of removing the old parts and replacing them with the new components.

Once you know what's-what, it is actually EASIER to work with a threadless front fork & stem ... and, once it is set up, you only need a couple of Allen wrenches to keep things adjusted.

The attached picture is my mid-80s vintage Olmo which was "updated" (more for cosmetic reasons; but, the bike is about a pound lighter which is a weak justification for the particular bike) with a threadless fork.

However, the less obvious disadvantage is that the tire clearance is reduced with the new front fork -- most new threadless forks are carbon fiber and cannot accept a 700x28 tire ... or, fenders. Some can & do.
 
the only 'problem' is finding decent 1" threadless forks in Australia.

I have a Roselli with an alu steerer (cost $250), which is fantastic for my steel bikes, but was too rigid for my aluminium. I was lucky to find a 2nd hand full-carbon 1" Mizuno. There are a few other generic forks around with alu steerers.

other than that, there's the high-end stuff like Look, Easton and Reynolds, which will cost you more than $500 at most shops.
 
alfeng said:
my mid-80s vintage Olmo which was "updated" (more for cosmetic reasons; but, the bike is about a pound lighter which is a weak justification for the particular bike) with a threadless fork.
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my 1988 Raleigh was transformed when I put a new fork on it. Sure, the old steel fork was nice and springy, but with the new fork I no longer have speed wobbles, and cornering??? Forgedaboudit!! :)