2 Problems I need help with

Discussion in 'Road Cycling' started by jwroubaix, Aug 18, 2013.

  1. jwroubaix

    jwroubaix New Member

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    I have an 07 Specialized Roubaix. Earlier this year I replaced the chain and the cogs due to wear. Lately i've been having 2 problems. The first is there has been a few times this year when coming down canyons pretty fast that i've backpedals and the chain just froze up. You can't go forward or backwards, it's nearly caused me to fall. The second problem is a knocking sound I can't seem to get sorted out. It's got to be something in my crank or pedals I think, It only does when i'm pedaling, it does whether sitting or standing as long as i'm pedaling. I took it into my LBS for this problem and of course they couldn't duplicate either. Any suggestions?
     
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  2. Volnix

    Volnix Well-Known Member

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    A freezing chain might be due to mud... Or maybe your hubs got bust... or maybe if you are using fenders they got clogged... or or or...

    Do you clean-inspect the bike regularly?

    A knocking sound might be because something broke and its now knocking with every rev. Or maybe something is stuck and causing the knock.

    If you clean (and maybe strip a bit and re-assemble) the bike you might find it... if you dont... its maybe LBS time!!! [​IMG]
     
  3. maxroadrash

    maxroadrash New Member

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    Do you have a Wipperman (or equivalent) connector in the chain? If so, and it's installed the wrong way, it will stick in the derailleur pulleys especially pedaling backwards. It'll also make noise.
    Good Luck
     
  4. jwroubaix

    jwroubaix New Member

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    As I mentioned, I took it into the LBS for these problems and i'm still having them after I got it back.
     
  5. daveryanwyoming

    daveryanwyoming Well-Known Member

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    I'd second Max's suggestion that you may have a master plate or perhaps even a normal rivet pin that isn't installed correctly and is getting jammed in the derailleur cage and pulleys. If your issues happen more often when in your 12 or 11 tooth cogs then it points even more strongly towards a master quick link installed improperly and even a decent bike shop can miss that as it's a subtle detail. If you don't use a quick link connection system then take a close look at all links in the chain and see if any rivet pins are sticking out further than the rest and are not totally flush. That will often lead to a broken chain if you happen to stand up hard when that link is stressed but not always but a pin that's not flush can jam in the derailleur cage.

    I'd definitely start with a very careful inspection of the chain and if you can, place it in a workstand or prop it up so the rear wheel is free to turn and see what happens to the chain when pedaling forwards and backwards particularly in the smallest rear cog (11 or 12). If there's a quick release link then see what happens when that link passes through the rear derailleur and over the smallest cog. Also make sure the chain is not running into the right side dropout which shouldn't happen but could with improper derailleur adjustment or something like a missing axle spacer. That could also result in a jammed chain.

    The fact that you noticed it during steep descents implies you might be in that smallest cog when it happens and that can point to a master link, a chain pin or a chain clearance problem that could be hard for a shop to pin down.

    Good luck,
    -Dave
     
  6. Felt_Rider

    Felt_Rider Active Member

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    About the LBS and I am not saying this is true for every shop, but we have a local shop that has on several occasions put the wrong chain on a bike and some other notable wrong things. Just saying not all shops have good mechanics or take time to take it out and actually test ride it with torque on the pedals. I have experienced the same issue as stated with a Wipperman chain masterlink that was put on upside down. I put the chain link on wrong, but the shop never could figure it out. It took some web searching to finally understand that I had put it on upside down.

    The symptoms are much like described and like Dave mentioned was more evident down on the smaller diameter cogs. But if you don't have a Wipperman master link not sure what it could be.

    Also I use SRAM Red on two bikes and even with all things in order I have experienced chain suck being in a bad gear combination and making an abrupt gear change. I had that happen a couple of months ago at 35 mph on a technical descent. I had to come safely to a stop (which was kind of tricky) and physically pull the chain loose with my fingers completely off the rings as it was wedged in the front derailleur. User error kind of like Andy Schleck a few years ago with SRAM Red. 98% of the time the Red runs pretty good.

    I have minimal mechanical skills so my two cents here is probably worth about a half cent.
     
  7. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    THINGS TO CONSIDER ...

    Who originally replaced the chain? You or a shop? Is it a 10-speed chain?
    • what information is imprinted on the plates?
    Is it a 10-speed SHIMANO chain?!? If not, then remove the chain (put it in your tool box) & put a 10-speed Shimano on the bike ...
    • A $20+ chain is better than a trip to the hospital or dentist!

    BTW. Check your cogs to ensure that one-or-more of them isn't bent.
     
  8. alienator

    alienator Well-Known Member

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    Campagnolo and KMC chains would be equally good choices.
     
  9. CAMPYBOB

    CAMPYBOB Well-Known Member

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    What brand/model crankset?

    What brand/model cassette, derailleurs and chain?

    Chain freeze can be caused by a loosening cassette lockring contacting the dropout. Usually occurs after coasting and the freehub locks up...sometimes temporarily, sometimes until you pull over or get the pedals to turn again. The loose cassette cogs can also generate both rattle noises as well as clunks. Check your lockring for tightness and make certain it clears the dropout.

    Campy UltraTorque crankset? They can clunk/tick/click and the only cure I've found is to install a 1 MM or 2 MM shim washer behind the left cup to eliminate excessive endplay (despite the BB width being within Campagnolo tolerances.
     
  10. oldbobcat

    oldbobcat Well-Known Member

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    Does the chain freeze happen only when you backpedal, or does it also happen when pedaling forward or simply coasting?
     
  11. jwroubaix

    jwroubaix New Member

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    The chain freeze so far has only happened when i've backpedaled being in the hardest cog coming down a canyon and mostly coasting. I have all Shimano 105 components. It was a Shimano 10 speed chain that was put on.
     
  12. jwroubaix

    jwroubaix New Member

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    My shop put the chain on by the way, not me.
     
  13. daveryanwyoming

    daveryanwyoming Well-Known Member

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    Yep, but shops make mistakes too and apparently they haven't been able to solve this either so definitely check the things suggested above. So does your chain use a master link or did they install it with a Shimano breakaway link pin and are all the link pins equally flush?

    -Dave
     
  14. An old Guy

    An old Guy Member

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    Don't backpedal.
     
  15. oldbobcat

    oldbobcat Well-Known Member

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    Sound advice.

    Other suspects are
    • Freehub that isn't freewheeling freely. A positive test for this is to put the bike on a stand, shift to the big ring and spin up the rear wheel, and pedal backwards like you do on the road. If the chain goes slack over the top of the cogs, your freehub isn't freewheeling. Possible causes are a damaged cassette body, dirt between the cassette and the hub, or friction between the big cassette cog and the spoke protector
    • A bent or out of adjustment rear derailleur.
    • A bent chainring
    • A bent chain
     
  16. jwroubaix

    jwroubaix New Member

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    I had the bike on the stand for both problems and couldn't duplicate either. You must have to have weight on the bike to duplicate the sound. It must be something with bottom bracket or crank?
     
  17. oldbobcat

    oldbobcat Well-Known Member

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    OK, so we're moving on to the knocking sound.

    What always works for me is removing the cranks and pulling the bottom bracket from the frame. Spin the spindle by hand and palpate for roughness. If it's rough, replace it. If it feels good, clean all the threads thoroughly, grease the threads lightly, and put it all back together. If this bottom bracket is as old as the bike, there's a good chance it is worn or damaged.

    Do not grease the crank-spindle interface if it's square taper. Grease splines and bolts, though.

    By the way, photos of your drivetrain components would be very helpful.
     
  18. jwroubaix

    jwroubaix New Member

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    oldbobcat, is this something I can do, I'm not much of a mechanic but i'm willing to give it a shot. What tools are needed?
     
  19. CAMPYBOB

    CAMPYBOB Well-Known Member

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    Not OBC, but...

    Literally, your life and body parts staying attached to the rest of you literally ride on your mechanical abilities. If you are "not much of a mechanic" and do not have the bottom bracket specific tools, you just might want to drop by your LBS and let their mechanic service your BB, cassette freeehub, chain and RD.

    You're having a problem(s) that almost caused you to crash. Repair work to the crankset, if performed improperly can also be hazardous to your health.
     
  20. jwroubaix

    jwroubaix New Member

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    I'll take it back to the shop, it just sucks that I took it there in the first place and they couldn't duplicate the sound. I feel they should've suggested to service the bb.
     
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