In article <
[email protected]>,
[email protected]ospam (Tom Paterson) writes:
|> >From:
[email protected]
|>
|> (Mark wrote):
|>
|> > Regardless of Campy's so called tests, what Campy says, or whatever
|> >> anyone else says, I think the new differential's (Rear) are ****, (snip)
|>
|> (M.E.H rejoined):
|>
|> >I don't like my 2004 record brakes either. Switching to Zero Gravity
|> >calipers.
|> >Has anybody out there tried these, and if >so , do you like them?
|>
|> Switching before use or feedback?
|>
|> This thread has been tragically funny.
|>
Well it's gone off on a few tangents. Many people just went after Mark for
letting off steam.
|> Correct install = proper operation.
Stating the obvious I think. But maybe the install instructions don't give enough
detail. I am glad to hear that the rocking of the calipers is normal, but I
didn't know that until I heard that from others. In large part my original post
was looking for some advice on correct installation.
I followed the instructions to the letter, except initially for the torque
settings, which I have now corrected. I still see that if I push the caliper from
one side, it does not return to it's original postion by itself. If I apply the
brakes it does, and that should be fine. However on 2 previous rides the brake
has ended up rubbing on one side. It's possible that this had nothing to do with
the rocking and that it was due to insufficient torquing, which I have now
corrected. I'll find out on the next few rides.
|>
|> When all else fails, take the bike in to a real shop and see if you can watch
|> what they do.
|>
What's a "real shop"? Just kidding. Actually if it isn't fixed this time around I
will be taking it in to Wright Bros in Seattle. It's a bike repair shop and
Co-Op. As members we can use the workshop and tools. The owner, Charles Hadran
has been running it for 30 years, and is very knowledgeable and helpful. He
doesn't sell bikes, but I try to always buy something whenever I'm there.
|> I made my two pairs work, 100%.
|>
Congratulations.
|> Lube the spring/caliper drag points. Not the area around there, but where they
|> really rub together. Wipe off the slop. --TP
I did follow this suggestion, but I fail to see how it would really make any
difference (it didn't). The spring rests in a plastic insert, so it's not a
metal-to-metal contact. Did you observe a difference in the performance of your
brakes before and after this procedure, or did you just do it when you first
installed them? If the latter, how do you know it makes any difference?
I did notice that the spring was not completely symmetrical. It is slightly
longer on the side with the tension adjuster, and even backing it out all
the way won't equalize the length. Maybe that doesn't matter.
Gareth