"Sheldon Brown" <
[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bruce wrote:
> > Paul Southworth wrote:
> >
> >>> which front derailleur works for a 26/36/50 chainring setup? shimano MTB specs say 22t max
> >>> diff. this is 24t. will it work anyway? or is there another brand with larger specs?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Should work fine as long as the derailleur is not designed for a "compact" system (ie, do not
> >> get a derailleur designed for 42-44t
> >
> >
> > Why? Whats the difference? Apart from the curvature of the arm-thingy, which would bulge out a
> > little away from the arc of the large chainring.
>
> Bingo, that's the problem.
>
> > Its the vertical range thats most important. Have you had other
problems?
> >
> > 24T x 0.5"/T / 2pi = 1.9" radius difference. So you want at least a 2 inch vertical movement
> > range.
>
> You get the maximum usable vertical range when the curvature of the arm-thingy matches the
> curvature of the chainring.
>
> If the arm-thingy is made for a 42, the tail of the a-t will bump into the teeth of the chainring
> while the front part is way higher than need be. Thus, you wind up with a lot of the vertical room
> being wasted, placed higher than the chain can ever go.
>
I just had this problem setting up a 'cross bike for a friend. He brough over a mtn f.der, but was
running road rings. The inner plate of the der. hit on the 42t inner ring when shifting to the big
ring. The solution was a road f.der till he switches back to 'cross racing rings.
I've had good luck with the LX f.der shifting 22/38/50. Its a little finicky to set up, but works
fine now that the "bugs" are worked out.
> In addition, since the working part of the arm-thingy is higher above the chainrings than it
> should be, it can't create as great a chain angle for the same amount of sideways motion, so
> shifting will be slow and difficult.
>
> Nothing is optimized for a 50 tooth big ring, but the best match would be a "road triple" with the
> lower front edge of the arm-thingy ground away so it will match the curvature. If you have indexed
> front shifting and drop handlebars, (i.e., Shimano "road" STI) this is the best way to
go.
>
> If you have straight handlebars with indexed "mountain" type shifters, you'd be better off with a
> "full-sized" "mountain" front derailer, maybe regrinding the bottom _rear_edge of the arm-thingy.
> This is becasue "mountain" type front shifters move a different amount of cable compared with
> "road" type.
>
> If your front shifter is _not_ indexed, the "road" type would be best.
>
> See also my article on this topic,
http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
>
Sheldon "The Bench Grinder Is One Of My Favorite Tools" Brown
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