FWIW. This is NOT definitive ...
If you are planning to use your TT bike on a track -- [COLOR= #ff0000]
presuming the track operator allows it [/COLOR]-- then you may find yourself quickly moving as many of the components (crank + possibly the wheels) to a "true" Track frame sooner rather than later ...
Most Track frames exhibit the design legacy established decades ago ...
- The REAR dropout spacing is generally 120mm. Your TT bike undoubtedly has 130mm rear spacing ... although spaced for a 120mm rear hub, it appears that the single-sided MICHE Track hub (at least, the one that I have which is gathering dust) can be laced symmetrically for a 130mm spaced frame because the flanges are set slightly wider apart ...
- Surly makes Flip-Flop hubs for various width dropouts (and therefore, wider chainlines) ...
- The "standard" Flip-Flop hub seems to be designed for a frame with 120mm rear spacing
- Most older Freewheel hubs can be used for SS applications -- either Freewheel or Fixed Cog
I believe that the
Bottom Bracket is [COLOR= #0000ff]
almost always higher[/COLOR] on a Track frame -- that is, expect a BB "drop" of about 55mm (+/-) ... you quickly can identify this comparatively minimal drop by the almost horizontal rear chain stay ([COLOR= #808080]a vintage 26" 3-speed and/or 26" Hardtail will have a similar chain stay angle[/COLOR]).
Unless you get some really short, Circus-Clown cranks, then your pedals will probably interfere with riding anywhere on a track except closer-than-not to the line painted on the inner edge of the track.
The
head tube angle on a Track bike is usually about 74º ... much steeper than I believe the angle of your TT frame's head tube. For simply riding around the track, the angle probably isn't a factor, but once you get into strategic riding, it probably makes a huge difference.
Your track's
operator can elaborate.