ABBABIBBLE'S New kick-awesome BC wheel



i can now BC! I practiced for about an hour this morning, and in the end
got the skate mount down to about 70% success rate, and i can go about
100 to 200 meters now! My plates haven't bent or defected (no pun
intended) in any way as of yet.

The feeling of speeding down the hill faster and faster and faster is
just amazing! Now i know why evan likes it so much.


--
abbabibble

Cheers, Mat.
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abbabibble wrote:
> i can now BC! I practiced for about an hour this morning, and in the end
> got the skate mount down to about 70% success rate, and i can go about
> 100 to 200 meters now! My plates haven't bent or defected (no pun
> intended) in any way as of yet.
>
> The feeling of speeding down the hill faster and faster and faster is
> just amazing! Now i know why evan likes it so much.






One last burn on your bc then im done.


Riding a bc most likely wont bend the plates, but as soon as you have a
crash with an inward force on that top triangle joint my guess it it
will either bend into the spokes, or snap off completly. Also as soon
as you have a blunt force on it thats when they will bend, just the
constant force of your weight on it might not bend them, but if you
have a 6" air then a hard hit my guess it they will break.


But then again they may not, but i will be very suprised if they dont.



if you have a freind with a tig welder, ask him if he can run over your
welds with alot of heat and welt them in more, this wil make it
stronger, but even with a very very well dont tig weld i think that
triangle joint will break.


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Evan Byrne

"Guns cause crime like flies cause garbage." -Harper
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Just make sure you only do skatemounts, some jump mounts might kill
them. I would normally say just ride it until it breaks but you might
get hurt.


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litldude2

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_____________________________

chosen wrote:
> wish i could be in a signature...*sigh*

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Evan, you're kind of being a *****. Your last post was better, but your
other three really showed your age and immaturity.

Offer advice, nicely, like the other people did in this thread. I know
he's threatening your BC-Ego by making plates and that's your
supposidly your department, but calm down. Sure, you are a better
welder than he is, but many many (dare I say most) people who weld are
better than you. Calm down and be more civil. You need to keep your
ego in check.


--
Seager

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i don't plan on doing any extremely extreme stuff on these plates. These
are just going to be until i've made some higher quality plates and/or
sprung for some bedford long plates. (possibly even both)


--
abbabibble

Cheers, Mat.
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Well, one look at those welds and i would guess they could break on
anything.



If one of the foot sections folded down at a 45 degree angle that could
slide your foot down at the ground and break your ankle.


Just something to watch out for.


--
Evan Byrne

"Guns cause crime like flies cause garbage." -Harper
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To be fair, welds like that tend to be brittle, not ductile, so I would
bet that if they break, it will be either a series of cracks or a
single catastrophic break, not a bend as others have described. For
that reason, I reccomend that you examine the welds on thosen plates
every time you ride, Mat. While some aren't being the nicest about it,
they make a point that those could be dangerous to ride in their
current state.


--
gerblefranklin

http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

Nick's main man.

"I love freedom dearly, ideally, in theory, but in reality we're not
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Yeh... that's a good idea. I chipped off the **** with a **** hammer and
filled in the spots and turned up my amperage. The welds even feel
stronger than they were. I still probably shouldn't trust them too
much, and i will take spencers advice about it and not go trying out
the jump mount until i either get or make stronger and better plates.

oh... i just had an inkling. Has anyone made carbon fiber BC plates
before? Evan, this might be your next thing...


--
abbabibble

Cheers, Mat.
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Hold your foot about 2ft above the ground, tilt your foot so the bottom
of your shoe is vertical. Now shove your foot into the ground as hard
as you can, note the cracking sounds followed by alot of pain. Thats
what it will feel like if you contine to use yours plates.


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Evan Byrne

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say anything more evan and you'll know what it feels like to have your
24" BC's all shoved somewhere unpleasant.

its frigging christmas and you're still being a ***** to be quite
frank.
ima go ignore you now and enjoy my holidays.


--
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Cheers, Mat.
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Evan Byrne wrote:
> One last burn on your bc then im done.



...what, then you're gonna start burning your bridges with NorCal
riders? Not cool. Respect is earned only when respect is given.


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Evan Byrne wrote:
> WHAT THE F***
>
>
>
> Those are the absolute worst welds I have ever seen. I like that you
> tried to make your own plates but im guessing one smack with a hammer
> those plates will fall apart like a card tower. also having in between
> long and short is pointless, long only works if you can get your toe or
> ball of foot and your heal on it to tilt for balance.
>
>
> Those welds will nto hold to anything. Those welds will probably be
> around the strength of a set up tack weld.



I weld for a living. Very well, in fact. I've seen your welds, Evan.
You're not in a good position to talk like this.

Constructive criticism for abba:
Too much wire speed!

Here's the wire/amperage adjustment theory:

Always set up on scrap first.
Turn down the wirespeed until the crackling dies down, but not far
enough that the wire balls up before reaching the weld.
The amperage can be thought of as "heat", there needs to be enough to
melt the parent material appropriately, and the wire as well. That's
why amperage will vary far more than wirespeed for varying metal
thicknesses, the thicker metal acts as a heat sink. Joints affect the
adjustments, as well. Welding into a corner, the arc is available to a
much greater surface of the parent metal, and the wirespeed (and
possibly the amperage, slightly) needs to be higher to carry the weld
down into that corner. On an outside corner, the arc is concentrated on
a smaller area, and the amperage needs to be turned down to prevent
burnthrough due to the limited metal area exposed to the arc.
It takes practice, be patient, and you'll get a sense for it.

General tips:
-Keep the weld joint flat during welding, if you can.
-When welding steel, the welding gun should be aimed back, 10-30
degrees, across the weld, whether you're using gas shield, flux core,
or even tig. The weld needs to be shielded while it cools.
Standard disclaimers!---
-While you're using the flux welder, use a particulate mask, that flux
isn't any good for you.
-Never weld galvanized metal. Zinc becomes airborne, and it's
poisonous; causing symptoms ranging from minor flulike complaints on up
to bad food poisioning plus gallstone-passing symptoms. Cadmium does
this, and also causes permanent neurological damage. Power grinding
gets the stuff airborne, as well. Toilet bowl cleaner will do a
relatively safe job of de-galvanizing, if you're really stuck having to
weld something.
A good place to start looking up more info would be:
http://www.stagesmith.com/Metal-links.html
In the long run, a gas shielded wire welder is a lot nicer to use, and
is definitely a worthy upgrade! But I can't recommend a tig setup for
occasional hobby use. Tig needs to be done using a foot control, to do
it well, and quality external control welding setups run over $1000.
That's before the learning begins, then it takes about a year at a full
time welding job to really get the basics down. And mig can do just as
well as tig for mild steel, it's all in the setup and practice!


--
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Evan, did someone run over your dog this morning or what? Your
insistance at being a jerk to someone else who's trying to build BC
places is really letting your insecurities show. I haven't wanted to
say it in the other threads you've made about them, but your plates
kind of suck. I didn't say anything then because there was no reason
for such negativity. However, it's worthwhile to say now because you
need to check yourself. You only needed to warn him about the danger
of those plates once - anything more is harrasment. Let it go.

Abba, keep trying but be careful. Keep in mind what everyone else
besides Evan has said. (esp the post above this one) You have good
drive, keep it up.


--
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Seager wrote:
> Evan, did someone run over your dog this morning or what? Your
> insistance at being a jerk to someone else who's trying to build BC
> places is really letting your insecurities show. I haven't wanted to
> say it in the other threads you've made about them, but your plates
> kind of suck. I didn't say anything then because there was no reason
> for such negativity. However, it's worthwhile to say now because you
> need to check yourself. You only needed to warn him about the danger
> of those plates once - anything more is harrasment. Let it go.
>
> Abba, keep trying but be careful. Keep in mind what everyone else
> besides Evan has said. (esp the post above this one) You have good
> drive, keep it up.




I dont think his plates are bad i have seen him do some of the best bc
wheeling stuff on them. I do agree that Evan needs to calm down but
he is making a valid point under his rudeness. I dont know anything
about welding but i think Evan does know about bc wheels.

Mike


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wobblyjohn wrote:
> I weld for a living. Very well, in fact. I've seen your welds, Evan.
> You're not in a good position to talk like this.
>
> Constructive criticism for abba:
> Too much wire speed!
>
> Here's the wire/amperage adjustment theory:
>
> Always set up on scrap first.
> Turn down the wirespeed until the crackling dies down, but not far
> enough that the wire balls up before reaching the weld.
> The amperage can be thought of as "heat", there needs to be enough to
> melt the parent material appropriately, and the wire as well. That's
> why amperage will vary far more than wirespeed for varying metal
> thicknesses, the thicker metal acts as a heat sink. Joints affect the
> adjustments, as well. Welding into a corner, the arc is available to a
> much greater surface of the parent metal, and the wirespeed (and
> possibly the amperage, slightly) needs to be higher to carry the weld
> down into that corner. On an outside corner, the arc is concentrated on
> a smaller area, and the amperage needs to be turned down to prevent
> burnthrough due to the limited metal area exposed to the arc.
> It takes practice, be patient, and you'll get a sense for it.
>
> General tips:
> -Keep the weld joint flat during welding, if you can.
> -When welding steel, the welding gun should be aimed back, 10-30
> degrees, across the weld, whether you're using gas shield, flux core,
> or even tig. The weld needs to be shielded while it cools.
> Standard disclaimers!---
> -While you're using the flux welder, use a particulate mask, that flux
> isn't any good for you.
> -Never weld galvanized metal. Zinc becomes airborne, and it's
> poisonous; causing symptoms ranging from minor flulike complaints on up
> to bad food poisioning plus gallstone-passing symptoms. Cadmium does
> this, and also causes permanent neurological damage. Power grinding
> gets the stuff airborne, as well. Toilet bowl cleaner will do a
> relatively safe job of de-galvanizing, if you're really stuck having to
> weld something.
> A good place to start looking up more info would be:
> http://www.stagesmith.com/Metal-links.html
> In the long run, a gas shielded wire welder is a lot nicer to use, and
> is definitely a worthy upgrade! But I can't recommend a tig setup for
> occasional hobby use. Tig needs to be done using a foot control, to do
> it well, and quality external control welding setups run over $1000.
> That's before the learning begins, then it takes about a year at a full
> time welding job to really get the basics down. And mig can do just as
> well as tig for mild steel, it's all in the setup and practice!




Thank you for posting this. I was waiting for a real welder to step up
and give some advice, because I don't do MIG enough to make any
judgements about what was done wrong in those welds (I do just enough
to know that they aren't correct).

Mat, you can see why i reccomend a professional welder to help you. If
you can find a shop that will help teach you in exchange for a bit of
help around the shop, I would say take the deal. That's what I do
(well, I work at a metal shop, and get to use the machines in addition
to my paycheck). Rather than having to settle for a used TIG setup and
some thrown together machines (you often need a host of grinders and
sanders to compliment a welding rig), I can use my boss's $5,000 TIG
machine, and don't have to pay for consumables like sheilding gas and
welding rod. Furthermore, I always have a professional welder near by
to give advice as to what I'm doing wrong.

Evan, you really didn't need to get into it like that. That was pretty
immature, and there's no reason to walk all over other folk's
accomplishments, even if they do have some pitfalls.


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gerblefranklin

http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

Nick's main man.

"I love freedom dearly, ideally, in theory, but in reality we're not
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