Adding Links: Risky or not?

[x]

The only two chains I've ever had come apart on me under load were new-type chains that come with
the master links - after I'd fooled around removing, then adding links.

I'm guessing there's a pretty good reason for those master links.... Is anybody of the opinion that
it's better to just buy a new chain and trim it to length than to try adding links back into one of
these puppies? That last failure *really* smarted...
--
PeteCresswell

 

[Pete Biggs]

(Pete Cresswell) wrote:
> The only two chains I've ever had come apart on me under load were new-type chains that come with
> the master links - after I'd fooled around removing, then adding links.
>
> I'm guessing there's a pretty good reason for those master links.... Is anybody of the opinion
> that it's better to just buy a new chain and trim it to length than to try adding links back into
> one of these puppies? That last failure *really* smarted...

Use an additional Powerlink to join an extra bit of chain.

~PB

 

[Qui Si Parla Ca]

pete-<< The only two chains I've ever had come apart on me under load were new-type chains that come
with the master links - after I'd fooled around removing, then adding links. >><BR><BR>

Chain pins these days are not designed to be pushed out and pushed back in. They are 'soft' and
deform to the point of not fitting tightly. The only chain that we use w/o a masterlink is the
Campagnolo 9s one. All others either have a special pin or snaplink.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

 

[Werehatrack]

On 14 Feb 2004 13:52:17 GMT, [email protected] (Qui si parla
Campagnolo) may have said:

>pete-<< The only two chains I've ever had come apart on me under load were new-type chains that
>come with the master links - after I'd fooled around removing, then adding links. >><BR><BR>
>
>Chain pins these days are not designed to be pushed out and pushed back in. They are 'soft' and
>deform to the point of not fitting tightly. The only chain that we use w/o a masterlink is the
>Campagnolo 9s one. All others either have a special pin or snaplink.

And, given the price of Shimano's one-use throwaway-or-else "pins", the SRAM Powerlink is a bargain
in short order if you need to break the chain more often than just to replace it. KMC's cheapie single-
use non-unsnappable masters are OK for adding links or doing an emergeny rejoin in the field, in my
opinion, but I'm not too thrilled about using them as the only joining method for a chain that
doesn't have a breakable link already.

Not all toolless reusable masters may be good, though; I've heard nasty things said about the
Wippermann Connex by someone recently. The victim was gently pushing his bike up a trail with chain
in hand, the Wippermann having apparently flailed open on a bouncy run through the woods. He was
only able to find half the master after he stopped, and was saying *very* unkind things about the
experience of the pedals suddenly losing all resistance just as he reached the bottom of a short
drop into a gully.

I've never used a Wippermann Connex myself. I think maybe I'll give them a miss.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
it's also possible that I'm busy.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

 

[Cat Dailey]

"Werehatrack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 14 Feb 2004 13:52:17 GMT, [email protected] (Qui si parla Campagnolo) may have said:
>
> >pete-<< The only two chains I've ever had come apart on me under load
were
> >new-type chains that come with the master links - after I'd fooled around
removing, then
> >adding links. >><BR><BR>
> >
> >Chain pins these days are not designed to be pushed out and pushed back
in.
> >They are 'soft' and deform to the point of not fitting tightly. The only
chain
> >that we use w/o a masterlink is the Campagnolo 9s one. All others either
have a
> >special pin or snaplink.
>
> And, given the price of Shimano's one-use throwaway-or-else "pins", the SRAM Powerlink is a
> bargain in short order if you need to break the chain more often than just to replace it. KMC's
> cheapie single-use non-unsnappable masters are OK for adding links or doing an emergeny rejoin in
> the field, in my opinion, but I'm not too thrilled about using them as the only joining method for
> a chain that doesn't have a breakable link already.
>
> Not all toolless reusable masters may be good, though; I've heard nasty things said about the
> Wippermann Connex by someone recently. The victim was gently pushing his bike up a trail with
> chain in hand, the Wippermann having apparently flailed open on a bouncy run through the woods. He
> was only able to find half the master after he stopped, and was saying *very* unkind things about
> the experience of the pedals suddenly losing all resistance just as he reached the bottom of a
> short drop into a gully.
>
> I've never used a Wippermann Connex myself. I think maybe I'll give them a miss.
>
> --

Actually, I've used the Connex on my Record 10 sp for about a year with no problems. I do always
carry a spare in my seatbag, however. I think they are just as good as the SRAM gold ones that I
used to use on my Dura Ace 9 sp. In fact, the Connex seems a little easier to open when it's really
dirty. I wouldn't avoid them.

Cat

 

[Werehatrack]

On Sat, 14 Feb 2004 15:38:08 -0500, "Cat Dailey"
<[email protected]> may have said:

>Actually, I've used the Connex on my Record 10 sp for about a year with no problems. I do always
>carry a spare in my seatbag, however. I think they are just as good as the SRAM gold ones that I
>used to use on my Dura Ace 9 sp. In fact, the Connex seems a little easier to open when it's really
>dirty. I wouldn't avoid them.

On a road bike, particularly with a 10s cassette where the choices are few, I might consider one,
but the thrashing that the chain gets on an enthusiastically ridden mtb is different. The instance
cited was of the latter nature. I've heard reports of the Connex being very easy to unhook
previously, but I hadn't thought that they could come undone as abruptly as seemed to be the case
for the guy who was pushing out when I ran across him. On a road bike, though, where the whipping
around is not as pronounced, I doubt that they'd be prone to this sort of thing...and the easy
unhooking could be handy if it wasn't a liability.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
it's also possible that I'm busy.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

 

[Charles Ramsey]

If you have a chain that is too short and a spare power link use a chain tool to cut the chain into
a three lenght and a five lenght and a seven lenght etc then use the short lenghts with both power
link conecters with the other chain to change the lenght. The older sram chains could be joined with
a chain tool but the newer chains require twice the force to push the pin out. Shimano chains cant
be joined with a chain tool.

 

[Cipher]

Originally posted by Cat Dailey

Actually, I've used the Connex on my Record 10 sp for about a year with no problems. I do always
carry a spare in my seatbag, however. I think they are just as good as the SRAM gold ones that I
used to use on my Dura Ace 9 sp. In fact, the Connex seems a little easier to open when it's really
dirty. I wouldn't avoid them.

Cat

I have the same set-up, I like the idea of a spare in the seat bag! (Thanks!)