advice on $1000 bike purchase(felt/specialized/giant)
- Thread starter neilkod
- Start date
Neilkod,
Not an "expert" but was recently in your situation. I purchased a 2004 Trek 1200 after comparing the various models in the 800-1000 range because of two reasons, it had the best components in the class (comparing Giant/specialized/cannondale) and I liked the fit for my frame (6'1 was 227, now 215).
Since the purchase I've put on over 850 miles on both the road and trainer and have not been disappointed with my long rides usually in the 32 mile range on the weekend (see your kid situation above and multiply by 3).
Any way, good luck, it really won't matter what bike you get, you already like to ride, get the one that you feel fits your body and you will want to ride.
TomKC
Not an "expert" but was recently in your situation. I purchased a 2004 Trek 1200 after comparing the various models in the 800-1000 range because of two reasons, it had the best components in the class (comparing Giant/specialized/cannondale) and I liked the fit for my frame (6'1 was 227, now 215).
Since the purchase I've put on over 850 miles on both the road and trainer and have not been disappointed with my long rides usually in the 32 mile range on the weekend (see your kid situation above and multiply by 3).
Any way, good luck, it really won't matter what bike you get, you already like to ride, get the one that you feel fits your body and you will want to ride.
TomKC
You mentioned durability. There is the preception that Al is always less durable than steel. Not always true,but a big part of the folklore. The Al frames your are looking at likely offer a 5 year warranty. Steel in the same price range will likely be lifetime. Warranty is for defects in material and workmanship,not fatigue,abuse or crash damage. Steel in this price range is typically lower end standard diameter Chromo and may lack adequate stiffness for your weight, especially in larger sizes. Your old ride is likely either steel or aluminum,so you should have some idea of the ride properties. There are steel rides in your price range, including Bianchi,KHS, Jamis, Fuji and others that are good bang for the buck and probably worth trying before making a decision. Low end Al is not necessarily lighter than low end steel,but is typically stiffer and may be better for bigger riders. Perfectly suitable frames can be made from either,but no one here knows what will work best for you.
Chech outfuji, felts,scattante which is supergo's brand and go to your lbs and see if you can find an 03 thats still around for a good deal as long as it fits right.105's on will be good and last.Steel will be a bit better ride then alum and if its anygood,not enough weight difference to worry.I just got a 03 Fuji Marseille,steel frame with all ultegra w/ a ritchey crank for $1099 in Aug.I got an 03 felt SR71 i'll sell ya for $550, 59cm.
While I appreciate the tenacity of above posters, I believe you asked what the TT was I was speaking of... that means Top Tube, most likely the most important measurement of the road bike for proper positioning. For the amount and type of riding that you are going to do... FIT is the most important characteristic of any of the bikes, more so than wheelset, component group, AND frame material.
Lets say you get a frame and you select the ones with the best wheels and components for the price, but the TT is too long or short... dude, you have a bike that doesnt fit, so you are going to spend more money buying longer stem, different seat, etc just trying to get comfortable on the dang thing.
All things equal, get the one that fits best and rides the most comfortable for you.
Take it from me, for what its worth...there are "typical" ride characteristics from different frame materials that "may" be enhanced by your weight. Aluminum... "typically" is stiffer. Thinner walls "typically" cause the need for wider tubing, which causes more rigidity in the welds. They are durable, yet when they do wear out... they typically fail catastrophically. Steel is nice... and traditional, and has come a LONG way. The type of steel and frame geometry has everything to do with the ride characteristics of the frame. A compact frame will be a lot stiffer. Now, steel is more pliant than aluminum and carbon, thus you will most often see more flex in the rear triangle and bottom bracket... but it WILL deaden the road vibrations more than an aluminum bike. Modern day carbon is pretty stiff, especially with shaped tubes, but the properties of the carbon will typically absorb more road vibration than steel and aluminum. There are different types of carbon, but for $1000 I do not think we need to get into this conversation as it will be out of your price range, as is the same for titanium. There are things that will change the ride properties, such as seat, stem, handlebars and fork, but all things equal, the above applies.
Wheels for your weight are going to be your biggest issue. For everyday riding/training DO NOT GET DECREASED SPOKE COUNT WHEELS. Go with 32h or 36h minimum. 105 laced to open pro is the way to go. If you have to get the 105 wheels, then go online, sell the monkeys and then get the 105 to open pro, or cxp33s... You will not be sorry.
Bottom line... fit fit fit fit fit wheels, then worry about components (but dont go below 105).
Chris
Lets say you get a frame and you select the ones with the best wheels and components for the price, but the TT is too long or short... dude, you have a bike that doesnt fit, so you are going to spend more money buying longer stem, different seat, etc just trying to get comfortable on the dang thing.
All things equal, get the one that fits best and rides the most comfortable for you.
Take it from me, for what its worth...there are "typical" ride characteristics from different frame materials that "may" be enhanced by your weight. Aluminum... "typically" is stiffer. Thinner walls "typically" cause the need for wider tubing, which causes more rigidity in the welds. They are durable, yet when they do wear out... they typically fail catastrophically. Steel is nice... and traditional, and has come a LONG way. The type of steel and frame geometry has everything to do with the ride characteristics of the frame. A compact frame will be a lot stiffer. Now, steel is more pliant than aluminum and carbon, thus you will most often see more flex in the rear triangle and bottom bracket... but it WILL deaden the road vibrations more than an aluminum bike. Modern day carbon is pretty stiff, especially with shaped tubes, but the properties of the carbon will typically absorb more road vibration than steel and aluminum. There are different types of carbon, but for $1000 I do not think we need to get into this conversation as it will be out of your price range, as is the same for titanium. There are things that will change the ride properties, such as seat, stem, handlebars and fork, but all things equal, the above applies.
Wheels for your weight are going to be your biggest issue. For everyday riding/training DO NOT GET DECREASED SPOKE COUNT WHEELS. Go with 32h or 36h minimum. 105 laced to open pro is the way to go. If you have to get the 105 wheels, then go online, sell the monkeys and then get the 105 to open pro, or cxp33s... You will not be sorry.
Bottom line... fit fit fit fit fit wheels, then worry about components (but dont go below 105).
Chris
Agreed, just not something you want to do a lot of when on a budget, and I know for a fact that not all LBS are so willing to just "swap" out parts on stock bikes. I agree that there are all sorts of things to do when dialing in. Im just trying to help the guy make decisions based upon the right things.
BTW....You specifically took your time to nitpick this one statement? Man, you have an overwhelming knack of stating the obvious. Sheeshe.
A comfortable rider will ride longer and faster.
BTW....You specifically took your time to nitpick this one statement? Man, you have an overwhelming knack of stating the obvious. Sheeshe.
A comfortable rider will ride longer and faster.
baseless hooey? Here was my advice:
1. you should first consider fit.
2. Then worry about wheels and at 200+ lbs, get something 32-36 spoke count.
3. Components at or above 105 should be last consideration... fairly reliable and affordable and available at his price point.
Thats it, plain and simple. Not sure what part of that is baseless. Im trying to help the guy make a good decision, not hijack his thread and turn it into a frame materials or a campy vs shimano arguement.
Im not trying to be an ass, but out of all the things I wrote, you pick out one minute detail and say it is part of the fit process. You know what, so is crank legnth... how many shops are going to swap out stems and cranks to sell a $1000 bike? Sheeshe, dude. Im not questioning your knowledge and bike prowess, but you remind me of my freaking mother or something... trying to correct things that dont need corrected for the sake of making yourself feel better or that you know more than someone else.
Chris
1. you should first consider fit.
2. Then worry about wheels and at 200+ lbs, get something 32-36 spoke count.
3. Components at or above 105 should be last consideration... fairly reliable and affordable and available at his price point.
Thats it, plain and simple. Not sure what part of that is baseless. Im trying to help the guy make a good decision, not hijack his thread and turn it into a frame materials or a campy vs shimano arguement.
Im not trying to be an ass, but out of all the things I wrote, you pick out one minute detail and say it is part of the fit process. You know what, so is crank legnth... how many shops are going to swap out stems and cranks to sell a $1000 bike? Sheeshe, dude. Im not questioning your knowledge and bike prowess, but you remind me of my freaking mother or something... trying to correct things that dont need corrected for the sake of making yourself feel better or that you know more than someone else.
Chris
yah, agreed, went a bit off course with that stuff. Probably fodder for another post or forum. Lots of fluff there...agreed. My apoligies to post owner.
But as I was saying fit is more important than materials and/or components.
But as I was saying fit is more important than materials and/or components.
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