Advice on wheels for heavy rider



Minimalist wheel...meets...maximalist power.







Alex Candelario tore this Mavic Carbone Ultimate apart in a sprint during the 2010 Tour of Langkawi.

Ever see a rider tear a 32-H, 3X T&S apart in a sprint? Didn't think so.

Hmmm? I better review the test ables to see if my Aksiums are as crappy as the big bux Carbones.

Images linked from BustedCarbon.com.

Take 'em out...gotta keep 'em separated!
 
Originally Posted by CAMPYBOB .
... Ever see a rider tear a 32-H, 3X T&S apart in a sprint? Didn't think so.
Hi CAMPYBOB, actually I have never seen a wheel that has been T&S'd before (ever) and probably never will!!! There were certainly none I noticed in the TDF or even in the MTB World events :)

Lets just say that in the TDF all the spokes were CF and they couldn't bother epoxying them and waiting for the epoxy to dry or they simply were not crossed ie. all Radial, and in MTB World events they don't need them T&S'd :)

Crikey, bugger, struth, darnit, and dangit ... what more can one say. I guess that is about it :)
 
Hi Guys, after all the reading I have done I went and had a chat to my BM who also happens to be a very good wheelbuilder (so he says). So, what did he say you might ask ...

For the rear wheel he recommends a 32H, 4x DS, 2x NDS spoke lacing/design/pattern and he says that he can do it so that the spokes have equal (or within 5kg/f) DS/NDS tension ( >=100kg/f). This pattern allows the spoke tension to be a little less, allows for more spoke elasticity (both DS & NDS) to absorb vertical and lateral bumps, and is strong vertically and laterally. Overall it provides for a very robust rear wheel, even for heavy riders.

He does not recommend radial (anywhere) because the spokes are tensioned to near their max and as such they nolonger have the elasticity to absorb vertical and lateral bumps. This means that the rim, hub and bike must absorb them.

For the front wheel he recommends 24H 1x or 2x and never radial, for the reasons previously mentioned.


Hi CampyBob, you will be pleased to know that I asked him about T&S, and he said yes it has benefits, such as a virtual increase in hub flange size to about half way between the flange and T&S, and the wheel is stiffer both vertically and laterally. The downside is the loss of spoke elasticity (both DS & NDS) to absorb vertical and lateral bumps. Which means the ride is not so good and the rim, hub and bike must absorb the bumps.

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Klabs, consider that many factory front wheels are now built with radial spoking. My previous Velomax (now Easton) Circuits have radial spokes front, plus radial on the NDS rear. The wheels were the most durable I've ever had, holding up for 30K miles without any truing needed until the rear rim finally cracked (front wheel is still fine). The spoke tension wasn't anywhere near equal from DS to NDS on the rear, yet the wheels never lost true under my 180-200 lbs.

Replaced them with a DT1450 wheelset, which uses 28 Aerolite spokes, front and rear. Again, the spoking is radial in front, with 2x on both sides in the back. If there were any real disadvantages to radial spoking in front, I doubt DT Swiss would use it. After all, they build the spokes, hubs and rims themselves so have the full range of design options available.

Concerning the ride quality, if you read the report on the link CB posted a while back, it dismissed the notion that ride quality varies to any noticeable degree between wheels. This is because all spoked wheels are actually quite stiff to radial loads (frontal stiffness in their words), meaning they don't flex much at all in response to bumps. Spokes just don't stretch much under load.

Klabs, my guess is that your wheelbuilder is over 50 years old. I say that because he quoting all the stuff we "knew" back in the 70's about radial spoking and T&S. I ride with at least one guy who still believes this stuff. Consider that in the 21st century, many factory-built front wheels are radial-spoked, and none that I've seen are T&S'd. Doubt this is because well-kept secrets were lost.
 
Hi CampyBob, you will be pleased to know that I asked him about T&S, and he said yes it has benefits, such as a virtual increase in hub flange size to about half way between the flange and T&S, and the wheel is stiffer both vertically and laterally. The downside is the loss of spoke elasticity (both DS & NDS) to absorb vertical and lateral bumps. Which means the ride is not so good and the rim, hub and bike must absorb the bumps.

Exactly what I've said all along.

The wheels are stiifer and the ride is rougher. Anyone that ever built wheels and anyone that ever rode them would know and agree.

Screw the 'experts', Screw the 'scientists'. Screw the 'journalists'.

I advise folks to get out there and ride a pair.

And yes, 99% of cyclists with a brainwave that isn't flatline can tell the difference. Easily. Accurately. Definitively.


After all, they build the spokes, hubs and rims themselves so have the full range of design options available.

Fashion sells.

Pro's can easily be paid to sit their dumb asses on wheels they know full well can be torn apart. See example above. Amateurs monkee-see the pro's. If it's aero by 1.64592 pounds of drag in the CalTech wind tunnel at 7° of wind yaw angle and weighs 4.1 grams less than last year's model, it will sell. If it carries 'bold, new graphics', it will sell. If it's wider (this year!) with a 100 MM section height, it will sell. If aluminum is called Zicral, it will sell.

BTW, my last wheelset also has about 30K niles on them. I weigh 175, abuse the living **** out of them and I have NO cracking. I guess using your logic, my 3x front and rear combination is stronger? Just el cheapo Mavic Open Pros which are actually known to crack around the eyelets.

Just ribbing you, DHK2. Spoke pattern, T&S, lacing, rim type, hub type, spoke tension and, of course, tires and air pressure affect ride and wheel longevity. All things being equal, however, T&S does build a stiffer wheel with a harsher ride. No one will ever convince me otherwise.

YMMV.
 
KLabs said:
Hi CampyBob, you will be pleased to know that I asked him about T&S, and he said yes it has benefits, such as a virtual increase in hub flange size to about half way between the flange and T&S, and the wheel is stiffer both vertically and laterally.
...and he offered zero proof as to why that is the case. Surely there must be some new physics at work since the appropriate physics in our space-time, i.e. Newtonian mechanics, doesn't offer any reason at all for the wheel to be laterally stiffer after T&S. If your friend has done actual tests to measure the changes in lateral rigidity, it'd be nice to hear how he conducted the tests and what his results were. If his only proof is what some wheel builder before him said and/or what riders have said, then that's no proof of anything. They physics say that a "virtual increase in hub-flange size" is not tenable at all.
 
Here's the engineers from Trek...strain gauging a frame to test for improving stiffness. Stiffness. I'll say it again. Stiffness.

Note the wheelset used during data aquisition.

Spokes. Lots of spokes. No radial anything. Anywhere.

I wonder 'why' that is?

Thinking...thinking...

Bueller...Bueller...anyone?

[Mayhem]...recalculating...turn left in...NOW![/Mayhem]

 
CB, my Circuit wheelset used cheapo triangle section rims, no eyelets, 28 spokes in back, with a heavy aluminum plug joint. I'd say your OPs (32 spokes?) should be ahead of them in durability. But again, 30K miles exceeded my expectations for these wheels. I only bought them because my frame builder had a great OEM price, and I'd never ridden a factory-built wheelset.

And nice try fooling us on the photo. Actually, those are two aliens inserting an anal probe into what they believe is the only intelligent life form on earth.
 
[SIZE=9.0pt]Hi dhk2, interesting isn't! My current front wheel has radial lacing, and I have had no issues either, but the rim is 27mm deep and spokes are highly tensioned. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=9.0pt]I am no expert, but I think his context is ... that his recommendation is for any rider weight (within reason), 100K plus longevity, and racing capable wheels even at the elite level. His age is late 20’s and if I had to guess probably 27 to 30. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=9.0pt]If you ask him, he will certainly build wheels with radial lacing, especially if the rider is light. A 60-70kg/132-154lb rider could probably use wheels with any lacing pattern, depending on their strength and especially if 50+ rims are used. Laterally radial lacing is the weakest design, so they overcome this by using deep 30+ rims for strength, using wider flanged front and rear hubs for spoke angle, and using higher spoke tensions. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=9.0pt]Let’s consider the front wheel, I think he is saying that a more effective solution is to use a standard width flanged hub with the same deep 30+ rims (or less) and a 1x or 2x spoke lacing which require less spoke tension. I believe that he is saying that this construction will have the same lateral and vertical stiffness, but be stronger due to the spoke having more elasticity to absorb the impacts, give a more comfortable ride, be more aerodynamic due to the narrower flanged hub which requires less spoke angle, and last longer even much longer.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=9.0pt]Spokes definitely have elasticity but they also have what is called memory, which is the ability of the material to return to its original state once stretched. This is the reason that Ti spokes are not used. They have excellent elasticity but average memory. I guess these two aspects, elasticity and memory, are an indication of compliance, re ride and responsiveness.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=9.0pt]I think, re T&S, he was indicating that they might be stiffer but not as strong because the rim and hub must absorb more of the impact/vibration and definitely not as compliant. Sorry CampyBob, he can see no reason to use T&S, not even for Track racing, nor MTB wheels which need to be stiff, strong, and compliant, all at the same time and T&S falls down, re strong and compliant, especially in the area compliance re lack of spoke elasticity. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=9.0pt]CampyBob, no offense intended, but why aren’t you currently using a T&S wheelset? The reason for the cracking around eyelet, re the Mavic Open Pro rim, is that the rim has been weakened by having to use such a large hole to accommodate the eyelet. If used, it would appear that double eyelets are required to provide real strength to support the nipple, but eyelets add weight to the rim and are not required for a deep V rim.[/SIZE]

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And nice try fooling us on the photo. Actually, those are two aliens inserting an anal probe into what they believe is the only intelligent life form on earth.

Busted! /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif

klabs, there are a couple reasons I don't ride my old T&S, as explained earlier. First and foremost, they are TOO stiff and ride like bricks over the quality (or lack thereof) of roads in my AO. Secondly, the rear is a narrow spaced hub and doesn't fit a modern rear triangle without resorting to an axle swap and spacers.

When I really want to drive a saddle up my ass (without using the aliens), all I have to do is toss my track bike out onto the frozen roads. 25 miles of that and your hands and backside will tell you...oh wait. I forgot. No human can ever tell any difference in stiffness, My bad. Never mind. Only science can know these things...

Hell, I can't even tell if a bike has brakes or not! The human brain could never discern such things! I have it on good authority from a scientist!

 
Originally Posted by dhk2 .

Klabs, consider that many factory front wheels are now built with radial spoking. My previous Velomax (now Easton) Circuits have radial spokes front, plus radial on the NDS rear. The wheels were the most durable I've ever had, holding up for 30K miles without any truing needed until the rear rim finally cracked (front wheel is still fine). The spoke tension wasn't anywhere near equal from DS to NDS on the rear, yet the wheels never lost true under my 180-200 lbs.

Replaced them with a DT1450 wheelset, which uses 28 Aerolite spokes, front and rear. Again, the spoking is radial in front, with 2x on both sides in the back. If there were any real disadvantages to radial spoking in front, I doubt DT Swiss would use it. After all, they build the spokes, hubs and rims themselves so have the full range of design options available.
FWIW. I believe that I have mentioned this before ... if not, here goes ([COLOR= #808080]¿again?[/COLOR][COLOR= #808080]![/COLOR][COLOR= #808080]?[/COLOR]) ... it was MY analysis ([COLOR= #808080]after analyzing my MAVIC Ksyrium SSC SL wheelset[/COLOR]) that one reason that radially spoking is viable with manufactured wheels is because the spoke more-often-than-not does NOT have a [COLOR= #0000ff]J-bend[/COLOR] and is securely anchored to the hub flange ...

  • that is, interlacing the spokes provides stability to the spokes ([COLOR= #808080]i.e., "one hand washes the other"[/COLOR]) ... if I were more clever ([COLOR= #808080]or, working on a Master' degree in engineering & writing my thesis on bicycle wheels ...[/COLOR]), I could provide an estimate of the amount of stability which is added by interlacing ... and/or tying-and-soldering the spokes
[*] non-interlaced ([COLOR= #808080]i.e., radially laced[/COLOR]) spoke therefore needs a higher tension to provide the same lateral stability ([COLOR= #ffa500]something which some people apparently do not feel is important[/COLOR]) to a wheel when it is laced with a J-bend spoke
[*] but, anchoring the spoke to the hub should allow the wheelbuilder to create a laterally stable wheel that is not spoked at as high a tension as one built with J-bend spokes without interlacing the spokes ...
  • which is apparently the case
  • hence, the ride is not as harsh as on radially laced manufactured wheels are not as harsh as those built with a traditional hub + J-bend spokes

BTW, the ([COLOR= #ff0000]current[/COLOR]) DT SWISS 1450 Road wheelset has 'symmetrical' crows foot lacing ([COLOR= #808080]vs. the radial lacing which you indicated -- your wheelset may indeed have radial lacing, of course[/COLOR]) ... the anchored spokes receive the same benefit which wheels laced radially compared with lacing a traditional hub with J-bend spokes.





BTW. I am under the impression that ([COLOR= #808080]at least[/COLOR]) one of DT's earliest ready-to-ride wheelsets did use radially laced spokes on one of their standard hubs + J-bend spokes ... more spokes. If so, it was a design which was quickly abandoned.

Regardless, it should be noted that the MTB version of the DT 1450 has a traditional hub which is laced with interlaced J-bend spokes -- one can surmise that the DT Swiss engineers feel that the side load the expectations are different ([COLOR= #808080]i.e., presumably, greater ... greater than a Road wheel typically experiences ... n'èst-çe pas?[/COLOR]).

Quote:
Originally Posted by dhk2 .

Concerning the ride quality, if you read the report on the link CB ([COLOR= #ffa500]¿did you mean alienator?[/COLOR]) posted a while back, it dismissed the notion that ride quality varies to any noticeable degree between wheels. [COLOR= #ff0000]This is because all spoked wheels are actually quite stiff to radial loads (frontal stiffness in their words), meaning they don't flex much at all in response to bumps. [/COLOR][COLOR= #ff0000]Spokes just don't stretch much under load[/COLOR][COLOR= #ff0000]. [/COLOR]
[COLOR= #ff0000] [/COLOR]
Klabs, my guess is that your wheelbuilder is over 50 years old. I say that because he quoting all the stuff we "knew" back in the 70's about radial spoking and T&S. I ride with at least one guy who still believes this stuff. Consider that in the 21st century, many factory-built front wheels are radial-spoked, and none that I've seen are T&S'd. Doubt this is because well-kept secrets were lost.


As far as wheels [COLOR= #ff0000]being stiff to radial loads [/COLOR]... that is not a correct statement UNLESS the wheel is built with Carbon Fiber rims ([COLOR= #808080]as indirectly illustrated[/COLOR]) ...

Regardless, if YOU are correct that "[COLOR= #ff0000]Spokes just don't stretch much under load[/COLOR]" then isn't it silly to lace a wheel with double-butted spokes UNLESS a person wants a wheel that is laterally less stable?

For whatever reason, the more crossings before the spokes are interlaced on a "box" cross-section aluminum rim, the greater the vertical yield ([COLOR= #808080]for want of a better word[/COLOR]) which the wheel will have ...

  • that is, IMO, there is a theoretical advantage to a x4 laced wheel that has been lost to the average rider's consciousness even before introducing Carbon Fiber rims into the 'equation'
 
Hi All and especially the OP, I am liking something like the following approach ...

Rear wheel - 32H, 4x DS, 2x NDS lacing, Sapim Xray spokes, and either Kinlin 30mm, Stans 340A, or Enve CF 50+mm rim (or maybe another clincher rim)

Front wheel - 24H, 1x or 2x lacing, Sapim Xray spokes, and either Kinlin 27mm, Stans 340A, or Enve CF 50mm rim (or maybe another clincher rim)

Hub to be decided, and my BM really like Swiss DT240 or Shimano DA rear/front hubs, but I have seen some 6 pawl hubs with ENDURO bearings that are light, which look very nice.


Of course triplet 2:1 16:8 3x 1x or 3x radial or 2x 1x or 2x radial, conventional 3x 2x or 3x 1x or 2x 1x or 2x radial, lacings will work depending on the rims, spokes and hubs, but I like the fact that the 4x 2x will have almost equal DS/NDS spoke tensions, be laterally/vertically stiff and strong, and provide excellent compliance. Downside is a few more spokes so it will cost a little more to build (maybe?).
Hi Alfeng, thanks, I will look into the straight spoke option, but they may not be as easy to get as a J spoke option ...


What spokes, rims and hubs do you all like :)
I have seen DT Aerolite mentioned, any others ...

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alfeng, my DT1450 wheels look like this : http://www.dtswiss.com/Products/Wheels/RR-wheels/RR-1450-mon-Chasseral.aspx Can't find the front wheel pic, but the spokes and hub look the same, just radial spoking. Since these are shown on the webpage, assume they are current models. The photo you posted appears to be of the Tricon hub design. I like the looks of those, but am confident my RR 1450's are a good wheel also. Really, I don't need an ultra-light wheelset, and the DT Aerolite spokes are scary-thin. Believe the are similar weight to the Revolutions, 15/17/15 gauge.

The experienced wheelbuilder and friend who sold me them "lightly used" assured me that they would hold up well for me, since I tend to be easy on wheels. Translation of that "compliment" means I don't put out a lot of power, and am usually at the tail end or dropped so I can easily avoid the potholes :)
 
Hi dhk2, your DT1450 rear wheel looks like 2x D,S 2x NDS, and it would appear from speaking to the BM that even though the spoke tensions will not be equal and that the DS will need to handle most of the torque, because the NDS spoke tension will probably be about 50% of DS, that it will be fine for upto or about 80 to 90kg rider. You will probably need to avoid all large bumps like potholes, large ridges, but WOW they are light, nice :)

I made a mistake previously, re front wheel 1x lacing patterns. He said that 1x is not really any better than radial. So for the front wheel lacings he would use 2x or higher, and if the rider is light 60 to 75kgs/165lbs then radial is ok, with wide flanged hubs rider weight can be increased by 5 to 10kgs using radial, and with deep V rims (especially >=50mm rims) a little more to more. The reason radial lacing is so often used is weight saving.

Radial lacings have very poor torque characteristics, hence you will never see this pattern on MTBs. A very simple way to explain this is to imagine a H shape, not triangular or X shape, and that spoke is the - in the H. If you push on one side at the top and the other side at the bottom the spoke, - , cannot stop the H structure breaking apart, whereas an X shape (which simulates spoke crossing) resists this created moments (torque) and the reverse moments. That it why radial relies on spoke tension and spoke strength. A deep V rim and tyre absorbs most of the bumps because the spokes cannot move to absorb the bumps without losing structural integrity ... hope this makes sense.

I just had another conversation with the BM and he said that even though a conventional 28H, 3X DS, 2x NDS, does not have as equal spoke tension as 32H, 4x DS, 2x NDS, where the NDS will be somewhere between 50% and 100% of DS (he didn't give an exact value although it sounded like it was closer to 100 than to 50), it is still a good lacing for rider weights upto 100 to 110-120kgs/264lbs and be bombproof. He said a 32H, 4x DS, 2x NDS lacing will support riders of 150kgs/330lbs (plus a little) and be bombproof.

Now, because I weigh 85 to 90kgs, he has suggested using a conventional 28H, 3X DS, 2x NDS lacing but I mentioned to him that from my reading I think a 24H 16:8, 3x DS, 1x NDS would be as good because of the equal spoke tension that can be achieved, although it is not as good if you break a spoke. He countered this by saying that the 1x NDS would not provide any real assistance to countering the torque effects and that the 3x DS spokes would essentially be countering all the torque effects, and that as a result of this higher spoke tensions would be required. He did say that only really successful Triplet pattern is the Campy G3 lacing/pattern ... would everyone agree with that?

So, still some details to consider ... 32H 4x lacing increases wheel weight (using Sapim xrays), by about 100gms over 28H 3x lacing, by about 150gms over 24H triplet 3x lacing. How bombproof do I want the wheelset? What weight wheelset would I like?

What do you all think ...
 
Originally Posted by dhk2 .

alfeng, my DT1450 wheels look like this : http://www.dtswiss.com/Products/Wheels/RR-wheels/RR-1450-mon-Chasseral.aspx Can't find the front wheel pic, but the spokes and hub look the same, [COLOR= #ff0000]just radial spoking[/COLOR]. Since these are shown on the webpage, assume they are current models. The photo you posted appears to be of the Tricon hub design. I like the looks of those, but am confident my RR 1450's are a good wheel also. Really, I don't need an ultra-light wheelset, and the DT Aerolite spokes are scary-thin. Believe the are similar weight to the Revolutions, 15/17/15 gauge.

The experienced wheelbuilder and friend who sold me them "lightly used" assured me that they would hold up well for me, since I tend to be easy on wheels. Translation of that "compliment" means I don't put out a lot of power, and am usually at the tail end or dropped so I can easily avoid the potholes :)
FYI. If your front wheel is laced the same as the rear DT 1450 mon Chasseral wheel, then [COLOR= #ff0000]you have a nomenclature error [/COLOR]...


The lacing on the ([COLOR= #008000]pictured[/COLOR]) rear wheel is [SIZE= 14px][COLOR= #008000]28x2[/COLOR][/SIZE] ... on both the driveside & non-driveside.

BTW. I would choose mundane, non-Aerolite spokes, too. The Tricon hubs are also available on a less expensive wheelset laced with round spokes ...

  • and, yes ... beyond the Zircal spokes on the Ksyrium wheelset that I had, I also have some "oval" Wheelsmith (?) spokes which are no longer laced to rims ... I have decided that the disadvantage outweighs any aero advantage.
 
Originally Posted by KLabs .

... I will look into the straight spoke option, but they may not be as easy to get as a J spoke option ...
Straight spokes are EITHER proprietary ([COLOR= #808080]e.g., MAVIC's[/COLOR]) OR presumably the other end is simply threaded ([COLOR= #ffa500]instead of the end being 'hammered' to form the spoke's head[/COLOR]) ...

  • for example, I have a set of hubs from a WH7700 wheelset which have, for the moment, been loosely re-laced onto another set of non-Shimano 16h rims ... the original spokes ARE J-bend ...
  • I just haven't gotten around to measuring the spoke length so I can cut the J-bend end off & thread the spokes ... the spoke threader actually rolls the threads rather than cuts them, BTW
[*] the WH7700 wheels have only 16 spokes, front & rear ... I should contact SANTANA or DT to see if they can source some 13g spokes ...
  • I'm not sure if my threader can handle a 13g spoke, so that option is problematic

Originally Posted by KLabs .

What spokes, rims and hubs do you all like :)
FWIW. I generally choose straight, 14g DT spokes because they are commonly available ... I shy away from double-butted & aero/oval spokes now.

I like AMBROSIO rims ... but, I guess that 'I' don't worry about the brand as much as I used to ... choose the rim which your wheelbuilder has easiest access to.

My preference is for SHIMANO hubs, first, because most can be forever updated-or-serviced by simply swapping the Freehub body ... and, they use standard ball bearings ...

CAMPAGNOLO hubs, second, because they are relatively easy to service ...

I 'love' DT Swiss's STAR RATCHET 'pawl' mechanism ...

I have come around to thinking that FORMULA hubs are a bargain ... and, a good choice if a standard ([COLOR= #808080]32h[/COLOR]) drilling works or you AND you are building the wheels yourself AND you want to lace wheels which have black hubs.

For bling, WHITE INDUSTRY hubs are a subtle form of conspicuous consumption ([COLOR= #808080]I think that most riders won't recognize what they are, but those who do will [/COLOR][COLOR= #808080]appreciate them -- I have an ENO hub which I bought when I was planning to cobble together a SS MTB ... the bearings are exceptionally smooth when there isn't a load on the hub BUT I don't know how they will be when they are actually on the road[/COLOR]).


Originally Posted by KLabs .

I have seen DT Aerolite mentioned, any others ...
FWIW. Again, while intriguing, I'm NOT keen on thin spokes ... but, they certainly have their place in the pantheon of options.
 
Originally Posted by KLabs .

I made a mistake previously, re front wheel 1x lacing patterns. He said that 1x is not really any better than radial. So for the front wheel lacings he would use 2x or higher, and if the rider is light 60 to 75kgs/165lbs then radial is ok, with wide flanged hubs rider weight can be increased by 5 to 10kgs using radial, and with deep V rims (especially >=50mm rims) a little more to more. The reason radial lacing is so often used is weight saving.

Radial lacings have very poor torque characteristics, hence you will never see this pattern on MTBs. A very simple way to explain this is to imagine a H shape, not triangular or X shape, and that spoke is the - in the H. If you push on one side at the top and the other side at the bottom the spoke, - , cannot stop the H structure breaking apart, whereas an X shape (which simulates spoke crossing) resists this created moments (torque) and the reverse moments. That it why radial relies on spoke tension and spoke strength. A deep V rim and tyre absorbs most of the bumps because the spokes cannot move to absorb the bumps without losing structural integrity ... hope this makes sense.

I just had another conversation with the BM and he said that even though a conventional 28H, 3X DS, 2x NDS, does not have as equal spoke tension as 32H, 4x DS, 2x NDS, where the NDS will be somewhere between 50% and 100% of DS (he didn't give an exact value although it sounded like it was closer to 100 than to 50), it is still a good lacing for rider weights upto 100 to 110-120kgs/264lbs and be bombproof. He said a 32H, 4x DS, 2x NDS lacing will support riders of 150kgs/330lbs (plus a little) and be bombproof.

Now, because I weigh 85 to 90kgs, he has suggested using a conventional 28H, 3X DS, 2x NDS lacing but I mentioned to him that from my reading I think a 24H 16:8, 3x DS, 1x NDS would be as good because of the equal spoke tension that can be achieved, although it is not as good if you break a spoke. He countered this by saying that the 1x NDS would not provide any real assistance to countering the torque effects and that the 3x DS spokes would essentially be countering all the torque effects, and that as a result of this higher spoke tensions would be required. He did say that only really successful Triplet pattern is the Campy G3 lacing/pattern ... would everyone agree with that?

So, still some details to consider ... 32H 4x lacing increases wheel weight (using Sapim xrays), by about 100gms over 28H 3x lacing, by about 150gms over 24H triplet 3x lacing. How bombproof do I want the wheelset? What weight wheelset would I like?

What do you all think ...
FWIW. I don't fully agree with your wheelbuilder's assessment that x1 are "not really any better than radial(ly)" spoked wheels ... while he is correct that x1 does NOT provide any significant lateral stability beyond what a radially spoked wheel achieves BECAUSE the spokes are all on the same side of the flange, a x1 lacing is ([COLOR= #808080]i.e., should be[/COLOR]) less stressful on the flange than a x0 lacing ...

Here is a wheelset from about 8-or-10-years-ago whose front wheel I laced x4 on the disc side & x1 on the non-disc side with straight 14g spokes.


The front wheel would have been marginally stiffer ([COLOR= #808080]i.e., slightly less prone to the effects of torque[/COLOR]) if the heads of the nipples were on the inside of the flange ... but, I was intentionally making a cosmetic decision by having the heads visible on the outside after looking at the alternative.

  • I may have reckoned incorrectly the consequences of the stress which braking would induce ([COLOR= #808080]I finally sold the wheels a few years ago because I didn't have a specific frame to use with the 700c wheels AND the wheelset definitely became superfluous when I realized I could cobble a Road bike together by simply using a long reach caliper + Road fork[/COLOR]), but both wheels were laterally ([COLOR= #808080]very[/COLOR]) stiff when I tested them manually when they were mounted in a frame & fork
  • AND, regardless, they should have been significantly better than MAVIC's 700c "city" wheelset which was intended to be used on MTBs ([COLOR= #808080]which was the commercially available option[/COLOR])

The rear was laced x4 on both sides.

  • The CXP14 rim evolved into the CXP30 rim, BTW

So, what exactly are you hoping that the planned wheelset achieves?

  • as I mentioned, earlier, I have used a x3 on the driveside & x2 on the non-driveside on several of my rear wheels
  • if you want to go with a 28h wheel, then 'I' would follow your wheelbuilder's advice and go with a x4 lacing on the driveside & x2 on the non-driveside
  • I would eschew any notions of a crows foot lacing unless you snag a set of Tricon-or-equivalent hubs which do not use J-bend spokes

IMO, if you are worried about the weight of the wheels you are going to have built, then choose some DT Swiss 240 hubs (or, [COLOR= #0000ff]DT Swiss 190 [/COLOR]hubs if you have too much money!?!) +/- latex tubes +/- some short-life, "competition" tires.
 
alfeng, as I said, my DT RR1450 front wheel is radially-spoked. The rear one however looks exactly like the picture, 28 spokes, 2x. Totally agree with your analysis that if my front wheel looked like the rear one, then it wouldn't be radially-spoked.

klabs, I think your wheelbuilder is blowing alot of smoke, ie, throwing out of opinions which don't really have a basis in science or the real-world of cycling. In my experience, radial spoking is fine for the front wheel. If it didn't work, why would DT Swiss and Easton, just to name two, use it? For the rear, sure, spoke tensions with conventional hubs and rims are uneven, but that's really not a significant problem. I rode my lower-end Circuit rear wheel for 30K miles, and it had radial-lacing on the NDS. The DS can carry all the drive torque without a problem if laced 2x, at least for guys like me. Never needed truing or broke a "twin-threaded" spoke, which were conventional 14/15/14 butted spokes with the head and J-bend cut off, threaded into the hub.
 
Originally Posted by dhk2 .

alfeng, as I said, my DT RR1450 front wheel is radially-spoked. The rear one however looks exactly like the picture, 28 spokes, 2x. Totally agree with your analysis that if my front wheel looked like the rear one, then it wouldn't be radially-spoked.

klabs, I think your wheelbuilder is blowing alot of smoke, ie, throwing out of opinions which don't really have a basis in science or the real-world of cycling. In my experience, radial spoking is fine for the front wheel. If it didn't work, why would DT Swiss and Easton, just to name two, use it? For the rear, sure, spoke tensions with conventional hubs and rims are uneven, but that's really not a significant problem. I rode my lower-end Circuit rear wheel for 30K miles, and it had radial-lacing on the NDS. The DS can carry all the drive torque without a problem if laced 2x, at least for guys like me. Never needed truing or broke a "twin-threaded" spoke, which were conventional 14/15/14 butted spokes with the head and J-bend cut off, threaded into the hub.
Hi dhk2, yes it is interesting and yes my current front wheel is radial also and my back wheel is 2x DS, 2x NDS. It is quite interesting to read about all the different opinions.

The main reason for radial is weight reduction (shorter spokes and less of them), but as you have said it is commonly used :)

To be fair to him I don't think he is blowing smoke, but I believe his context is that they are not bombproof for a 100K ... is that reasonable, that is the question?

As you have indicated the context for the build is really dependent on rider strength, rider weight, and terrain being ridden :)

thanks ... :)
 
Originally Posted by alfeng .


Here is a wheelset from about 8-or-10-years-ago whose front wheel I laced x4 on the disc side & x1 on the non-disc side with straight 14g spokes.


The front wheel would have been marginally stiffer ([COLOR= #808080]i.e., slightly less prone to the effects of torque[/COLOR]) if the heads of the nipples were on the inside of the flange ... but, I was intentionally making a cosmetic decision by having the heads visible on the outside after looking at the alternative.

  • I may have reckoned incorrectly the consequences of the stress which braking would induce ([COLOR= #808080]I finally sold the wheels a few years ago because I didn't have a specific frame to use with the 700c wheels AND the wheelset definitely became superfluous when I realized I could cobble a Road bike together by simply using a long reach caliper + Road fork[/COLOR]), but both wheels were laterally ([COLOR= #808080]very[/COLOR]) stiff when I tested them manually when they were mounted in a frame & fork
  • AND, regardless, they should have been significantly better than MAVIC's 700c "city" wheelset which was intended to be used on MTBs ([COLOR= #808080]which was the commercially available option[/COLOR])

The rear was laced x4 on both sides.

  • The CXP14 rim evolved into the CXP30 rim, BTW

So, what exactly are you hoping that the planned wheelset achieves?

  • as I mentioned, earlier, I have used a x3 on the driveside & x2 on the non-driveside on several of my rear wheels
  • if you want to go with a 28h wheel, then 'I' would follow your wheelbuilder's advice and go with a x4 lacing on the driveside & x2 on the non-driveside
  • I would eschew any notions of a crows foot lacing unless you snag a set of Tricon-or-equivalent hubs which do not use J-bend spokes

IMO, if you are worried about the weight of the wheels you are going to have built, then choose some DT Swiss 240 hubs (or, [COLOR= #0000ff]DT Swiss 190 [/COLOR]hubs if you have too much money!?!) +/- latex tubes +/- some short-life, "competition" tires.
Hi alfeng, nice info, thanks :)

To ask re rear build, do you remember if the spoke tension for the 4x DS 4x NDS where reasonably equal and why did you decide on a 4x 4x rather than a 4x 2x lacing ...

It is interesting that you did a front wheel with 4x DiscS and 1x NDiscS ... to ask why didn't you use 2x NDS, also why 4x DS?

Yes, even the DT240 is not inexpensive ...

thanks :)