Advice re wheels please

you say you've got the b screw tweaked "almost" all the way in, why not "all" the way in? also, see if you can flip it around backwards.

 

Hi digifant, well done Yes, try what Motobecane has said. When the chain is on the 32T sprocket, you need to ensure that the 32T sprocket teeth and the guide pulley wheel teeth are not touching or holding on to the same chain link (this is so that the chain can move with the guide pulley wheel). Another option to consider (if possible) is to use a longer Dérailleur Hanger (DH) or to change the shape of the DH B screw platform. Grind it out a little on the inside to make it less vertical. I tried building up the DH B screw platform but it is actually easier to grind the inside of the platform out a little with a dremel, because it is solid material ... make sense Don't give up on this setup, yet. Once you resolve this issue it sounds like it will all work

 

Ok, I have reversed the screw as advised by Motobecane. It sits better now.
Still no contact in first gear but when i spin the cranks the chain jumps every 2 rotations.
When in 20th gear, it stutters 5times per rotation.
Crank is rotor qRings 46-40. No broken tooth.
At first I thought the link pin on the new chain was not inserted enough, but it's flush.
Any idea?

I could post a video, but it would be made with $hitty phone lens

 

Oh!

Your chain is too short by about four links ... maybe, six links ...

The length of the chain needs to accommodate the qRing when the "wide" orientation is at 12-and-6-o'clock.

 

Thanks for the hint Alfeng.
I have found the ideal chain length on this site: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing
I plugged my values in:
chain stay = 43,5cm or 17" 1/8
front ring 50t
rear gear 32t

The result from
simple equation = 55.83 inches
rigourous equation = 55.75

As of now, the new chain has not been shortened:
length=57inches (from center pins)
the count of outer plates = 57

So what now?

 

Hi digifant, you can do this to determine chain length ... Have the chain sitting on the smallest rear sprocket and smallest front chainwheel. With the chain and RD in this position pull the unattached ends of the chain together until the RD cage begins to move and become tensioned. The chain should overlap. When this occurs and it allows you to determine the number of links to remove and add the chain link. This is effectively the longest the chain can be ... Did changing the length of the chain resolve all the issues?

 

Good Morning,
Who else is using the new 10 speed shimano (dynaSys) cassette with shimano sti shifters in their setup?
Maybe it's not compatible at all
Thanks

 

wouldn't a skipping chain indicate a chain too long? seems to me that is what would happen if you don't have the RD taking up enough slack but that RD shouldn't have an issue with that. I'm not sure I'm fully understanding what your describing

 

Blackberry cam to the rescue!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5soYC6r0LZU

 

Saw a stiff link in the video.

 

Hi digifant and AnOldGuy, yes, it looks like there is at least one stiff link

 

Thanks for the help, the stiff link is solved it was the one with the replacable pin.
But I still have a problem: the hesitation comes when the chain is on the the smallest gear. The chain rubs a tooth on the 9th gear. Like if the chain was too wide (but it's a super narrow 10speed chain)
The tooth itself is notched (from the factory) and is not positioned in the same pattern as the other teeth. (I've green highlighted it)
The tooth is wider towards the back of the bike and smaller towards the front. It's almost flat on the exterior side (derailleur) but notched/sloped on the hub's side.
I'm going through sheldon brown's notes to adjust the derailleur

 

Hi again.
I posted a reply last night with a picture but since i'm new on the forum, it has being delayed/approved by the admin. So I'll try to explain without a photo:

So, no more stiff link (the connecting pin was not inserted enough) but:
When on smallest (10th) gear, the chain always rubs this one tooth (shaped to facilitate downshifting) on the 9th gear.
I describe the tooth as wide towards the back of the bike and thinner towards the front.
It's almost flat towards the chainstay but notched/sloped towards the hub.

 

Hi digifant, are you on the small front chainring when this happens? Also, what type of chain and crankset are you using?

 

No, i'm using the small gear (rear) with the big ring in front.
cranks are regular sram with q-rings (40 & 46teeth)
It's wearing out my patience, and probably yours too, so i'm about to take it to the shop.
I don't see it but derailleur might be bent?

 

FWIW. Sight unseen (which is to say that I may not be correctly picturing what you are describing), let me note that the individual teeth on cogs can get bent ... separate cogs which are not attached to a spider can be "warped"/bent, too ...

The remedy is to straighten them out as needed.

 

Hi digifant, perhaps the dérailleur hanger is bent inwards a little? The RD and cassette are brand new, aren't they? Is your crankset square taper? Actually, I think we need a photo ... and it is nice to have a good bike mechanic to help

 

Finally got it!
I brought my problem to the mechanic. The derailleur hanger was slightly twisted and he adjusted the limit screws.
He mentioned that with a smaller jockey wheel, shifting would be less precise, and the jockey it self would wear out very fast.
So I'll keep an eye on that and let you know
Thanks for your support & patience

 

Hi digifant, it is all working, that's excellent, well done

The road RD gives a little less chain wrap which may mean that the chain might need replacing a little earlier (maybe). My bike mechanic said the condition of the chain determines how long the jockey wheels, and for that matter the whole drive train sprockets/chainwheels/jockeys, will last

A worn chain will wear out all components of the whole drive train, very quickly (10T or 11T respectively). So, if the chain is worn simply replace it, and ensure the chain rollers are lubricated correctly and always wipe off excess lube so that dirt and dust are less likely to stay on the chain. Also, choose a lube that will stay in the chain rollers even when it rains, etc

As for gear changes, actually the 10T will enable better changes on the smaller sprockets because the guide wheel will be closer to them. Although there should be no difference when the chain is on the larger sprockets. As an example, my XT RD performed better with the 10T guide wheel then with the 11T guide wheel.

To clarify, I mentioned earlier that all XT 9sd RD should, but I have been informed that it is the Shadow XT RDs that work. To date I know of the following that work ... XT M770, XT M772. Now that I have mine working I wouldn't mind trying an XTR, which are stiffer and have better bearings for smoother and more concise movement. Wonder if there are any on special

There seems to be another nice aspect to your success and that is your road STI/RD seem to be compatible with a Shimano MTB 11-32T cassette (and the local Shimano Rep emphatically said "MTB and road cassettes have different sprocket offset spacing, and as such MTB cassettes are not compatible with road STI/RDs) ... hmm, we shall see, won't we

 

Hi All, I am not completely happy with the 12-36T sram cassette (too mechanical/clunky for me), so I think that I might try an 11-36T shimano cassette. When I get one, and try it, I will let you know what I think of the results