Advice sought re buying a new bike. (incl which brands have what reputations)



Per David Damerell:
>A hub gear's only marginally heavier than a full derailleur setup


The total weight of my bike with a Rohloff setup was exactly, precisely 1.9
pounds heavier than it was with a SRAM 9.0 setup. Same rims...same tires, same
everything except...
--
PeteCresswell
 
"ship" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi
>
> Okay thanks everyone for your input.
> I much enjoyed the photos!


Another thought for you. I know you're in the UK, but is there something
like the Novara Buzz where you are?

http://www.rei.com/online/store/Pro...productId=47841647&parent_category_rn=4502048
or
http://tinyurl.com/62yn3


--
Warm Regards,

Claire Petersky
Home of the meditative cyclist:
http://home.earthlink.net/~cpetersky/Welcome.htm
Personal page: http://www.geocities.com/cpetersky/
See the books I've set free at:
http://bookcrossing.com/referral/Cpetersky
 
Peter Clinch wrote:
> davek wrote:
>
>> No such thing as a fast bike, only a fast rider.
>>


But a given rider can go faster on some bikes than on others. Having
bought and ridden my first road bike, it certainly *feels* much faster
than my very utilitarian utility bike.

> This is very true, and there is another side to it: if you have a sexy
> racing bike but /don't/ have the legs to really make it fly it's /even
> more/ embarrassing to get overtaken by some trundly.
>
> Being a trundly sort of rider I don't generally trouble Real Roadies,
> who are much quicker than me, but I have reasonable cycle fitness and
> every now and then I come up to someone who looks as if they're just
> gone into a shop and bought All The Gear who is Very Miffed at being
> overhauled by a chap wearing no lycra at all on a folding bike with 16"
> wheels and a shopping bag on the front...


A couple of years ago I was coming home from work on a sunny Friday
afternoon and found myself catching up with 3 helmeted and lycra clad
roadies. I held back for quite some way; after all I was riding a
hybrid, wearing a suit and had a briefcase on the rear rack. In the end
I got bored and overtook. They tried to come back but I decided it was a
race worth winning and threw caution to the wind (and later, the suit to
the dry cleaners). They got me in the end but it took them over a mile.
 
Per [email protected]:
>So you removed the front derailleur and its controls, too,
>right?


Yes.

I replaced the small chainwheel bolts after removing it - just so the threads
wouldn't get gooped up.
--
PeteCresswell
 
ship wrote:

> 1. HUB GEARS.
> One thing I'm *not* happy about though, is the hub-gear suggestions.


> The problem is that a) they are *extremely* heavy [atleast mine was]
> and b) they are less efficient - i.e. [Cue spectre's large, lardy arses
> over-taking]


Perhaps you have a different idea of "extremely heavy" to me, but if you
take a hub gear on its own and compare it to the hub it replaces, extra
chainwheels, sprockets, tensioners and mechanisms there's not actually
going to be much in it. The other post in this thread comparing a
Rohloff isn't really that sensible as a Rohloff is a 14 speed hub which
necessarily has rather more gubbins involved than a 7 or fewer speed.
Something like a SRAM 3 speed, which would be perfectly adequate around
London, needn't be any heavier.
Make sure you're comparing just hubs, and not heavy bikes overall that
happen to have hubs. For example, the Orbit Orion City 7 (see
http://www.orbit-cycles.co.uk/orion.shtml) is /not/ a corpulent bike,
despite having a chaincase, hub gear, hub dynamo and lights and a rack
all built in from the start. See
http://www.orbit-cycles.co.uk/orion.shtml for a review, it's an ideal
commuter bike.

> Look, I'm mid 40s, medium build and pretty fit. I dont like breaking
> sweat going to work, but I cycle hard and once I get going I often only
> wear a shirt on upper body, even in mid winter!
>
> But I do NOT like fat-arsed women wearing many layers of clothing
> over-taking me, apparently without even breaking sweat!
> Okay so it only happens rarely... but IT SHOULDNT HAPPEN AT ALL!!


See my previous comments re: my Brompton, which has a 3 speed hub. I
don't recall /ever/ being overtaken by "fat-arsed women wearing many
layers of clothing" when I've been underway, and I overtake far more
people than overtake me, despite most of them having derailluers.
Ditching a derailleur for a hub is going to make little in the way of
speed difference for utility cycling. For serious sport, yes, you'd
lose a significant edge, but A to B stuff it's really not an issue, and
I say that as a rider of both hub and derailleur bikes who's coming up
for 40, medium build and (by typical standards) pretty fit.

OTOH, if you like replacing chains and cleaning and oiling sprockets to
waste your time /off/ the bike, go ahead and get a derailleur. For
commuting it's really not much help, if any.

> Also my hub gear bike was pretty difficult to set up correctly so that
> it changed gear cleanly. And finally the damned thing has
> now seized up completely.


My hub gear bike has never been at all difficult to set up correctly so
that it changes cleanly. Not something I can say for any derailleur
bike I've ever owned in comparison.

> HOWEVER I would be fascinated to know if anyone has any hard facts on
> this "efficiency" issue. How much faster would the same bike
> (yes, yes same rider, same everything) go if it had the a
> good-ish derailer vs if it had hub gears. Put another way, what is the
> energy efficiency rate for different types of gears?!


> But I want to be as AS UPRIGHT AS POSSIBLE (for my back) even if it
> does slow me down. I am thinking about sticking on some swept-back
> handlebars...


Well, here's the rub. There's no point squeezing an extra percentage
point out of a derailleur just to throw it all away to wind resistance.
If you really want to go fast in comfort without crouching over the
bars then up your budget and get a recumbent. On uprights personally I
just sit upright and accept the losses, but if you want to milk every
last ounce of efficiency then you're going about it a strange way.

> And I want wheels whose bearings wont blow up after a year.
> I want brake cable that wont need replacing after 6 months to a year
> etc etc etc!


You want low maintenance, in other words. Has anyone told you about hub
gears? ;-)
Seriously, part of your problem is you want to have your cake and eat it
too, and that just isn't possible. If you want to move as efficiently
as possible that means losing day in, day out practicality, which is
itself important in commuting. You have to decide on a compromise point.

> 4. ADAPTABILITY
> One thing that has always TOTALLY hacked me off about bicycles
> is that they are *so* badly designed for doing your own thing.
> e.g. if I want to swap out my hub gears for derailerd gear - and why
> the
> heck not! But no, all kinds of sucking of teeth. Likewise if I want to
> change handle bars all the better made bikes seem to say no-way-hose!
> Drives me frickin nuts.


Again, you want your cake and eat it too. I've never seen a car where I
can swap a manual gearbox for an automatic, so why expect similar on a
bike? The problem is that a jack of all trades is a master of none:
when I'm touring I take my touring bike because it's best for the job.
Around town I take a folder, which is better for the job. If you have a
bike that does everything then the any particular things will be
compromised. There /are/ some good do-it-alls, like the Moulton APB and
Birdy Blue, but again you'll have to up your budget considerably.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
 
On 18 Feb 2005 09:24:52 -0800, "ship" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Hi
>
>Okay thanks everyone for your input.
>I much enjoyed the photos!
>
>
>1. HUB GEARS.
>One thing I'm *not* happy about though, is the hub-gear suggestions.
>
>Yes it'll help stop the bide from being nicked and
>yes they are (apparently) zero maintenance and
>yes they are dead easy to change gears at traffic lights etc.
>
>
>HOWEVER, having driven one for about 5 year around London
>(a Giant thing cost about GBP350 new), I am now very against them.
>
>The problem is that a) they are *extremely* heavy [atleast mine was]
>and b) they are less efficient - i.e. [Cue spectre's large, lardy arses
>over-taking]


The derailler does have an advantage in efficiency IFF it is used and maintained
well and carefully. Dude, read what you have already written about your
mechanical aptitudes and maintenance habits. That hub that lasted you for five
years would've been dead in 14 months if it'd been a derailler.

>Look, I'm mid 40s, medium build and pretty fit. I dont like breaking
>sweat going to work, but I cycle hard and once I get going I often only
>wear a shirt on upper body, even in mid winter!
>
>But I do NOT like fat-arsed women wearing many layers of clothing
>over-taking me, apparently without even breaking sweat!
>Okay so it only happens rarely... but IT SHOULDNT HAPPEN AT ALL!!


It ain't the bike.

>Also my hub gear bike was pretty difficult to set up correctly so that
>it changed gear cleanly. And finally the damned thing has
>now seized up completely. I suspect the breaks may have been dragging
>too quite badly on occassion...


If you had trouble keeping a hub system tuned and adjusted you can b' well
forget keeping a derailler running for any length of time.

>HOWEVER I would be fascinated to know if anyone has any hard facts on
>this "efficiency" issue. How much faster would the same bike
>(yes, yes same rider, same everything) go if it had the a
>good-ish derailer vs if it had hub gears. Put another way, what is the
>energy efficiency rate for different types of gears?!


There was a paper on the 'net by the Browning people who had done comparisons.
For the derailler a lot is dependent on gear selection.

>2. SECOND HAND BIKE SUGGESTIONS
>I bought a second hand bike about 7 years ago. It was a tough looking
>mountain bike - and bit by bit every damned thing on the bike
>failed! My accountant worked out that I'd spent over GBP450 in
>on year on the goddam thing (including labour to be fair).
>
>Bl**dy rediculous!


I'm telling ya, deraillers ain't for you. Didn't that experience teach you
anything.

>So this time I want something well made and new.


The first 200 pounds replaced everything needed and the rest of the money went
into fixing the **** YOU broke.

>e.g. I want pedals that spin properly - why cant anyone design pedals
>with efficient ball bearings?


What in hell are you talking about now. Bearings designed for the loads placed
on pedals don't spin like a top. They are plenty efficient when used as
intended.

>And I want wheels whose bearings wont blow up after a year.
>I want brake cable that wont need replacing after 6 months to a year
>etc etc etc!


Bikes require maintenance. More complex bikes require more maintenance.

Most of those things last a lot longer than 6 months to a year with occasional
oiling and attention and not being left in the rain.

>3. HANDLE BARS / ROAD POSSITION
>This is very tricky. I do want something reasonably fast & light.
>This seems to mean that I need to think about bikes that are more like
>a road bike (racer-like??) - that is leaning over type designs.
>
>But I want to be as AS UPRIGHT AS POSSIBLE (for my back) even if it
>does slow me down. I am thinking about sticking on some swept-back
>handlebars...


You understand that your requirements are basically contradictory. There's an
enormous range of bars and stems for nearly all bikes, so you have some
flexibility.

>4. ADAPTABILITY
>One thing that has always TOTALLY hacked me off about bicycles
>is that they are *so* badly designed for doing your own thing.
>e.g. if I want to swap out my hub gears for derailerd gear - and why
>the
>heck not! But no, all kinds of sucking of teeth. Likewise if I want to
>change handle bars all the better made bikes seem to say no-way-hose!
>Drives me frickin nuts.


The bars should be no real problem, I can't imagine what it is you are griping
about there.

As for changing the drivetrain, it is pretty much the ENTIRE FREEKING DRIVETRAIN
of course replacing it is a big deal. Gee, that's like complaining that it's
expensive to put a Jaguar XKS engine and drive train in your Ford Prefect.

Now when you get a grip on the fact that you are a mechanically inept and
maintenance-challenged commuter you will just go get that commuter bike and be
happy.

Ron






>
>That's it for now
>
>Have a gr8 weekend everyone.
>Many thanks
>
>
>Ship
>Shiperton Henether
>(starter of this thread...)
 
RonSonic wrote:

> Bikes require maintenance. More complex bikes require more maintenance.


Though it's worth emphasising that this is complexity at the user level,
not the underlying engineering level. A derailleur is mechanically much
simpler than a multi-speed hub, but since there isn't really much that
can be done at the /user/ level (change up, change down, maybe move a
toggle chain in or out a notch and that's about /it/) the hub is
effectively a simple thing. Ditto hub brakes and dynamos, which just
sit there and work on request rather than needing constant fiddling.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
 
In article <[email protected]>, RonSonic wrote:
>On 18 Feb 2005 09:24:52 -0800, "ship" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>1. HUB GEARS.

>
>>Look, I'm mid 40s, medium build and pretty fit. I dont like breaking
>>sweat going to work, but I cycle hard and once I get going I often only
>>wear a shirt on upper body, even in mid winter!
>>
>>But I do NOT like fat-arsed women wearing many layers of clothing
>>over-taking me, apparently without even breaking sweat!
>>Okay so it only happens rarely... but IT SHOULDNT HAPPEN AT ALL!!

>
>It ain't the bike.


Could be - he did say "I suspect the breaks may have been dragging".
Changing the gearbox isn't the answer to being overtaken when
you leave the handbrake on though.
 
On 21 Feb 2005 16:24:21 +0000 (GMT), [email protected] (Alan Braggins)
wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>, RonSonic wrote:
>>On 18 Feb 2005 09:24:52 -0800, "ship" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>1. HUB GEARS.

>>
>>>Look, I'm mid 40s, medium build and pretty fit. I dont like breaking
>>>sweat going to work, but I cycle hard and once I get going I often only
>>>wear a shirt on upper body, even in mid winter!
>>>arsed women wearing many layers of clothing
>>>over-taking me, apparently without even breaking sweat!
>>>Okay so it only happen
>>>But I do NOT like fat-s rarely... but IT SHOULDNT HAPPEN AT ALL!!

>>
>>It ain't the bike.

>
>Could be - he did say "I suspect the breaks may have been dragging".
>Changing the gearbox isn't the answer to being overtaken when
>you leave the handbrake on though.


If he's riding around with the brakes dragging and cannot be sure, well, you can
accurately say that the problem is with the bike, but I'll argue that level of
rider neglect and indifference will follow him to any bike he buys.

I think we're agreed on the bottom line, that what ever he gets he needs to
attend to it.

Ron
 
Alan Braggins wrote:

> Could be - he did say "I suspect the breaks may have been dragging".
> Changing the gearbox isn't the answer to being overtaken when
> you leave the handbrake on though.


I have witnessed people riding tandems with bar-end mounted drag brakes
unintentionally have the brake on.

--
Tom Sherman - Earth
 
Response to Tom Sherman:
> > Changing the gearbox isn't the answer to being overtaken when
> > you leave the handbrake on though.

>
> I have witnessed people riding tandems with bar-end mounted drag brakes
> unintentionally have the brake on.


I Have A, Um, Friend who once took the trike to the supermarket, loaded
it up with a ton of shopping, and cycled home with the spoon brake still
on, rubbing the tread off the rear tyre.

Mind you, it's only about half a mile from the supermarket to my
house, though. My, Um, Friend's house, I mean.


--
Mark, UK.

"There was never a century nor a country that was short of
experts who knew the Deity's mind and were willing to reveal it."
 
RonSonic wrote:

> Now when you get a grip on the fact that you are a mechanically
> inept and maintenance-challenged commuter you will just go get
> that commuter bike and be happy.


Jeez, Ron, no need to be over-sensitive. Give it to him straight. :)

--
Dave...
 
> I have witnessed people riding tandems with bar-end mounted drag brakes
> unintentionally have the brake on.


BTDT

cheers,
clive
 
Clive George wrote:

>>I have witnessed people riding tandems with bar-end mounted drag brakes
>>unintentionally have the brake on.

>
>
> BTDT
>


Just in case anyone important is reading, I'd just like to say that I
have never ever done that.

James
 
On 22 Feb 2005 03:48:33 -0800, "dkahn400" <[email protected]> wrote:

>RonSonic wrote:
>
>> Now when you get a grip on the fact that you are a mechanically
>> inept and maintenance-challenged commuter you will just go get
>> that commuter bike and be happy.

>
>Jeez, Ron, no need to be over-sensitive. Give it to him straight. :)


Yeah, been in a rough mood lately. There's been a couple things that seem to
pretty routinely set me off and damn, they're pretty common around here.

This one fell in the category of criticizing things you don't know about. We are
all ignorant of so many things, God knows I am, and when I trip over one of them
I'll try to laugh at myself and learn something. Here's a guy who is blaming the
bike for his abject failures of maintenance and getting into a bit of a huff
about it. Then there's my ignorance of not seeing his POV in all this, but this
isn't about me :)

My other big theme lately, one of those that makes the red mist form over my
vision, are accusations of bigotry, prejudice and intolerance by people who are
perfectly comfortable with their own local form of small-mindedness, bigotry and
xenophobia. But that's another thread.

Be well.

Ron
 
Hi

(Original poster here again.)


Okay guys go ahead - have your fun!

But I still reckon that yeah it WAS the bike!
The bike had cr*p brakes that were almost impossible to fix so that
they
wouldnt rub at all for more than half a journey. (And the drum break at
the
back - that might have rubbed a fraction too, difficult to tell).

==>Re: Mechanically challenged?
No just what you guys would call lazy. My bike is a tool to get me from
A to
B. And no I dont like spending every weekend brush my chain with a
toothbrush!

But yes I suppose I might treat my bike better if it performed well
enough
to earn some respect in the first place!

Out of interest though, how much time how often SHOULD I be spending
cleaning & adjusting my bike? I cycle atleast 10-15 miles/day. How
often
should I clean the chain / how often should I be cleaning & adjusting
derailers etc


==>Re: "Having cake and eating it"
Yes and no.
I want to go as fast as I reasonably can WITHOUT screwing up my
back/neck.
(I gather all sorts of law suits are being prepared against racing bike
manufacturers in the US). Hence I am up for as upright as possible a
riding
position.


==> Re: recyclined riding position
I've seen these things and I think they are one of the most dangerous
things
I've ever seen. You cant be seen and you cant see anyone else. Absolute
suicide! And lets face it, being run over by a double decker bus is
even
worse for my spine... ;^)


==> Hub gears
Well until someone can give me some HARD scientifically proven numbers
on
this I remain unconvinced... Surely every cog in ever gear is going to
lose
appreciable amounts of power! If we're talking less than say 0.5%
energy
loss then I might consider it. Though on a cold day I bet all that
lubricating oil/grease will soak up a heck of a lot more...

I mean e.g. if I can go say 20.0 MPH on a derailer, what MPH other
things
being identical would I go on a good derailer? Does anyone actually
know the
*FACTS* here, or is this all just hot air and ginding of axes that I'm
hearing?

My plan is to get some slightly more expensive derailers and hope that
they
last better than the cheap ones. I am more than happy to adjust & fine
tune
all these things just so long as I dont need to fish out my entire
toolbox
to do it. Although to be fair any grinding of gears etc clearly needs
to be
fixed right away.


==>Re changing gears
Is it likely to be okay to just use the front derailer most of the
time.
I seem to spend my whole life waiting at traffic lights in London...
And if I just had 3 main gear rations to play with that would probably
do - (And then on a prolonged bit of flat into a wind or whatever I
could
fine tune
accordingly... every now and then with the full range of gears)


==> "Distressing" the bike
Any more bright ideas on how to distress my nice shiny new bike
to reduce it's "nickability". I'm not planning on selling the thing I'm
thinking of
a) spraying it with a variable mixure of rust and black coloured paint
all
over the place so that there arent too many shiny new silver bids left.
b) putting some tape on to the seat.
c) scraping off some of the paint - maybe with paint stripper.
If it has aluminium underneath it wont rust in any case.
d) wierd swept-back bars might help make it look old-fashioned too...

==> Chain lube
By the way I imagine the chain can waste huge amount of energy if dirty
or
with too thick lubricant. What's the word on the street about these
wax-based "self-cleaning" chain lubricants? The idea I gather is that
they
slowly shed the wax together with dirt. But they seemed quite stiff to
me.

Thanks for all your input so far -
Much appreciated.


Ship
Shiperton Henether
 
On 22/2/05 2:46 pm, in article
[email protected], "ship"
<[email protected]> wrote:

<snip>

OK, I have worked out what you want, you need a single speed, preferably
fixed.

There is virtually nothing to go wrong. You will need to lube the wheels
once a year or so, likewise for the pedals.

No need to distreess the bike, you'll find it at the next corner anyway
after the thief has tried to freewheel.

As for gearing, whell you can pick something that will just get you up the
steepes thill, and then learn to spin for the faster speeds. It will be the
most efficient transmission you can get.

...d
 
ship wrote:

> ==>Re: Mechanically challenged?
> No just what you guys would call lazy. My bike is a tool to get me from
> A to B. And no I dont like spending every weekend brush my chain with a
> toothbrush!


If you can't or won't do ongoing basic maintenance it amounts to the
same thing though. If you don't like doing maintenance get a bike that
requires less and/or pay a bike shop to do it.

> But yes I suppose I might treat my bike better if it performed well
> enough to earn some respect in the first place!


Chicken and egg thing. If you won't give it a break it's not
intrinsically likely to give you one...

> Out of interest though, how much time how often SHOULD I be spending
> cleaning & adjusting my bike? I cycle atleast 10-15 miles/day. How
> often should I clean the chain / how often should I be cleaning & adjusting
> derailers etc


Whenever it needs doing. Not very helpful, admittedly, but true
nonetheless. Chains don't need much cleaning if they live in a
chaincase and/or there's not much salt on the roads, OTOH an unprotected
chain in winter with grit down should be cleaned ideally after every
journey if it's 10-15 miles. Brakes should be adjusted the first time
maintenance is possible if you've become unhappy with them. Derailleurs
need adjusting if they're not changing smoothly.

> ==>Re: "Having cake and eating it"
> Yes and no.
> I want to go as fast as I reasonably can WITHOUT screwing up my
> back/neck.


Then you want a sporty(ish) recumbent. Expensive cake, mind you, but it
does fit the bill.

> ==> Re: recyclined riding position
> I've seen these things and I think they are one of the most dangerous
> things I've ever seen. You cant be seen and you cant see anyone else.


Then how come I'm still alive? You can very easily be seen, and not
only that you are sufficiently different to stick out like a sore thumb:
the cycle calls very loud attention to itself. Mine has the seat at
about car seat height. Can you see other vehicles if you're in a car?
I can, so I imagine you can too.

> Absolute suicide!


Though nobody appears to have noticed a worse accident rate for
recumbents than upright bikes. OTOH, because of the riding position you
can have more effective braking that doesn't tend to throw you over the
handlebars, similarly impacts are less likely to have you bound for the
tarmac head first, and if you come off you've less far to fall.

There are several regular recumbent riders on u.r.c., and none of us
feel we're in any more danger than our upright bikes. Many of us have
noticed plenty of blind assumptions made to the contrary, almost 100% of
which are made without any experience to judge from.

> ==> Hub gears
> Well until someone can give me some HARD scientifically proven numbers
> on
> this I remain unconvinced... Surely every cog in ever gear is going to
> lose
> appreciable amounts of power! If we're talking less than say 0.5%
> energy
> loss then I might consider it. Though on a cold day I bet all that
> lubricating oil/grease will soak up a heck of a lot more...


How about all the salt on your derailleur transmission? Higher up you
said you want to do a minimum of maintenance, and derailleurs are /not/
the way to achieve this.

> last better than the cheap ones. I am more than happy to adjust & fine
> tune
> all these things just so long as I dont need to fish out my entire
> toolbox
> to do it.


That's not what you said earlier though...

> ==>Re changing gears
> Is it likely to be okay to just use the front derailer most of the
> time.


No, you use the rear one most of the time. In fact, for urban commute
work there's little, if anything, to be gained with a front derailleur
at all. A single chainwheel and sensibly chosen 8 speed rear should be
all you need.

> I seem to spend my whole life waiting at traffic lights in London...


Where hub gears are really nice 'cause you can change while stood still.
If you only want three gears get a SRAM 3 speed hub. Really.

> c) scraping off some of the paint - maybe with paint stripper.
> If it has aluminium underneath it wont rust in any case.


But it can still corrode.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
 
ship wrote:

> ==> Re: recyclined riding position
> I've seen these things and I think they are one of the most dangerous
> things
> I've ever seen. You cant be seen and you cant see anyone else.
> Absolute suicide! And lets face it, being run over by a double decker
> bus is even
> worse for my spine... ;^)


Ah! That explains the number of times I've been killed in the > twenty-two
years that I've been riding them, in ten countries and two continents, in
conditions as varied as central London and the Nevada desert...

--

Dave Larrington - http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/
World Domination?
Just find a world that's into that kind of thing, then chain to the
floor and walk up and down on it in high heels. (Mr. Sunshine)
 
ship wrote:
> ==>Re: Mechanically challenged?
> No just what you guys would call lazy.


So don't complain when it costs you £450 a year to maintain your bike
(although I find it hard to imagine how you can possibly spend that
much on maintenance unless you really are driving your bike into the
ground and getting it fixed by the most expensive mechanic on earth).

> And no I dont like spending every weekend brush my chain with a
> toothbrush!


Nor do I, but I'd rather spend on average less than half an hour a week
on bike maintenance (which is all it takes) than £450 a year to get
someone else to do what I can do for free.

> (I gather all sorts of law suits are being prepared against racing

bike
> manufacturers in the US).


Really? That's crazy. Perhaps not entirely surprising, but still crazy.

> Hence I am up for as upright as possible a
> riding
> position.


I'm afraid you'll just have to accept that upright riding position and
racing speed are mutually exclusive.

> ==> Re: recyclined riding position
> I've seen these things and I think they are one of the most dangerous
> things
> I've ever seen.


Is that what you "think", is it? How much actual thought have you put
into the matter? And more pertinently, given your criticism of what
other people "think" about hub gears, what does what you "think" count
for anyway? How about some hard scientifically proven numbers to back
up what you "think"?

> ==> Hub gears
> Well until someone can give me some HARD scientifically proven

numbers
> on
> this I remain unconvinced...


See above.

> I am more than happy to adjust & fine
> tune
> all these things just so long as I dont need to fish out my entire
> toolbox
> to do it.


With most modern bikes, a selection of two or three alan keys will see
you right for most eventualities. Add one or two small spanners,
puncture patches and tyre levers, and you have a complete tool kit for
all but the major jobs - a toolkit that can be kept in a saddle pouch,
ie on the bike at all times.

d.
 

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