Amp Hour of NiMH batteries



I ordered the 4/3A Sanyo 4.0 Amp hour NIMH battery cells from NiCad
Lady. $6.50 per cell, 5 per pack, plus $5 to seld them together in
series to create a 6 volt battery pack. $37.50 per pack. Two packs
ordered. Plus about $10 shipping. Net about $42.50 per battery pack.
OK so far. Had a friend solder the cables from my current NiteRider
packs onto the new battery packs. The NiteRider original batteries
were 3.8 Amp hour Sanyo cells. I still have two functioning old 3.8
amp hour NiteRider battery packs in addition to the two new 4.0 rebuilt
battery packs.

Tried to charge them. Plugged the charger from my late 1990s NiteRider
Digital Head Trip into one of the new 4.0 battery packs. Heard a
"pop". Charger has not worked since. Charger did not charge the new
battery pack. Charger can no longer charge up my other original
NiteRider battery packs. This Digital charger charged at full power
for 14 hours and then went to a trickle charge.

Plugged the charger from my late 1990s NiteRider non digital Head Trip
into the new 4.0 battery pack. Nothing popped. This charger just
charges at full power until you unplug it. Simple charger. Left the
charger on the new 4.0 battery pack overnight and nothing was charged.
New 4.0 battery pack was still completely dead. I have used this
charger on my old NiteRider 3.8 battery packs and it charges them up
just fine overnight. So the charger still works. Before charging the
new 4.0 battery packs I did plug them into my helmet light and the
cells had enough juice in them from the factory to light up the light
for a minute. So the cells in the new 4.0 battery pack seem to be
welded together correctly based on this simple test of lighting up a 6
volt light.

Why can't I charge up the new 4.0 amp hour battery packs? Do the 4.0
amp hour cells have so much extra resistance over the original 3.8 that
a new high power charger is needed? Does it make any difference which
set of wires is connected to the + and - terminals of the in series
battery pack? The original battery packs had two wires going to the +
terminal and two wires going to the - terminal. My friend put them
back together the same way they were on the original battery packs.
Based upon my experience with 120 volt house wiring, it makes no
difference if you attach the hot or neutral wires to the brass or
silver screws on the outlet. As long as you don't put them on the same
screw at the same time, they work either way.



Below is the original posting and replies from October 2006.


1 From: [email protected] - view profile
Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 9:46 am
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I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800

is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
3800 capacity.

How much real world difference is there between a 3500 and a 4200 and a

4500 capacity?


Will the NiteRider chargers charge all of these sizes of NiMH cells?
The chargers are two kinds. One is a charge at full power until you
unplug the thing. The other is charge at full power for 14 hours and
then it goes to a trickle charge.


Reply

2 From: Art Harris - view profile
Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 11:28 am
Email: "Art Harris" <[email protected]>
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[email protected] wrote:
> I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
> Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
> 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
> is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
> 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
> 3800 capacity.



That doesn't make sense. The 4200 mAh is cheaper than the 3800 and 4000

mAh?

Are these all the same brand?


A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and

compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,

get it.


Art Harris


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3 From: [email protected] - view profile
Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 3:01 pm
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Art Harris wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
> > Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
> > 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
> > is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
> > 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
> > 3800 capacity.


> That doesn't make sense. The 4200 mAh is cheaper than the 3800 and 4000
> mAh?



> Are these all the same brand?




Different brands, different internet mail order places. The cheapest
internet mail order place only carries 3500 and 4200 capacity. Not
sure what brand other than the picture is of green batteries. Other
source carries name brand 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. Sanyo and
Panasonic.


> A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
> needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
> draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
> you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
> compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
> get it.




So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%

less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
minutes longer.

Given the two low cost options of 3500 capacity for $2.60 each and the
4200 capacity for $4.30 each and the fact I need 10 batteries total.
It looks like an extra $1.70 buys me 18 minutes difference between the
two cells.



- Hide quoted text -
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> Art Harris




Reply

4 From: Ben C - view profile
Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 3:44 pm
Email: Ben C <[email protected]>
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On 2006-10-24, [email protected] <[email protected]>
wrote:


> Art Harris wrote:

[snip]
> So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
> batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
> 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
> less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
> minutes longer.




It may not be quite linear, especially with filament bulbs (like
halogens). As soon as the battery voltage drops a bit, the bulb gets a
bit dimmer, the filament cools, its resistance drops, and the current
drawn is higher. This vicious circle soon finishes off the battery.

This, I've heard, is one of the reasons the batteries last a lot longer

with LED lights, because they don't have that characteristic. The
resistance is constant above some threshold voltage (and below that you

get nothing).


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5 From: [email protected] - view profile
Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 6:22 pm
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- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

On Tue, 24 Oct 2006 16:44:21 -0500, Ben C <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2006-10-24, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:


>> Art Harris wrote:

>[snip]
>> So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
>> batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
>> 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
>> less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
>> minutes longer.



>It may not be quite linear, especially with filament bulbs (like
>halogens). As soon as the battery voltage drops a bit, the bulb gets a
>bit dimmer, the filament cools, its resistance drops, and the current
>drawn is higher. This vicious circle soon finishes off the battery.




This is essentially a non-issue with common secondary cells; they have
such a sharp knee in the discharge curve that any cascading effect
such as you describe makes no difference.

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6 From: RonSonic - view profile
Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 9:49 pm
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On 24 Oct 2006 14:01:07 -0700, [email protected] wrote:



- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

>Art Harris wrote:
>> [email protected] wrote:
>> > I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
>> > Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
>> > 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
>> > is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
>> > 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
>> > 3800 capacity.



>> That doesn't make sense. The 4200 mAh is cheaper than the 3800 and 4000
>> mAh?



>> Are these all the same brand?



>Different brands, different internet mail order places. The cheapest
>internet mail order place only carries 3500 and 4200 capacity. Not
>sure what brand other than the picture is of green batteries. Other
>source carries name brand 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. Sanyo and
>Panasonic.



>> A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
>> needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
>> draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
>> you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
>> compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
>> get it.



>So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
>batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
>10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
>less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
>minutes longer.



>Given the two low cost options of 3500 capacity for $2.60 each and the
>4200 capacity for $4.30 each and the fact I need 10 batteries total.
>It looks like an extra $1.70 buys me 18 minutes difference between the
>two cells.




While you're shopping, batteryspace.com took good care of me last year.
They've
got good prices on complete packs assembled in a bottle with cable.
Hard to beat
even doing your own soldering.

Ron


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7 From: amakyonin - view profile
Date: Wed, Oct 25 2006 10:55 am
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[email protected] wrote:

> > A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
> > needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
> > draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
> > you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
> > compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
> > get it.



> So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
> batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
> 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
> less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
> minutes longer.




It isn't quite so simple. The usable capacity depends on the load on
the battery. A good example of this is shown here
(http://www.powerstream.com/4_3.htm) where the higher capacity 4500 mAH

Panasonic is demonstrated to have a higher internal resistance (slope
of the line) than another brand. If you extend the line of the
Panasonic to the right it will intersect the PowerStream 3850 mAH cells

at about 6.25A. With any higher load the lower rated battery will
outlast the Panasonic. The lost energy in the Panasonic is dissipated
as heat in the battery.

In a 6V system with a 10W and a 20W halogen you can draw 1.6A, 3.3A, or

5A so the Panasonic is still the better choice among these two. For
typical bike halogen systems you won't be operating at high enough
loads where the intersection of the load lines makes a difference in
your selection so you can still base your decision on the rated
capacity alone.



> Given the two low cost options of 3500 capacity for $2.60 each and the
> 4200 capacity for $4.30 each and the fact I need 10 batteries total.
> It looks like an extra $1.70 buys me 18 minutes difference between the
> two cells.




I would go for the 4200 just because that extra 18 minutes is still
very useful in the dark.

Note that you should consider adding a Raychem Polyswitch in series
somewhere in the pack to guard against a short circuit.
Powerizer/Batteryspace has some of the battery pack specific versions
but there is a bigger selection of the general purpose types at
Digi-key. Make sure you get one with the trip point higher than the
maximum current you expect to draw from the battery (or drive while
charging).


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8 From: dankap - view profile
Date: Wed, Oct 25 2006 1:22 pm
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Beware the mysterious green batteries! Here at work, we needed eight
AA rechargeable batteries. Since our office manager didn't like the
radio shack prices, she found a set online. There were the dreaded
green "value" batteries. After a few weeks of messing around with
short, unreliable battery life, we ended up ordering a complete new
set.

The original green batteries are "Digi-USA Hitech" brand, and have
small orange stripes on each end. I'm sure I could get permission to
mail them out to you if you covered shipping, since I was told to
dispose of them a while ago. The only reason I still have them is I
wanted to recycle as opposed to trash, and have not taken the time. I
sincerely believe they would not be worth the shipping cost, much less
whatever "deal" they are advertised at. If the batteries you found are

not the same as I described, this post may still serve as a warning.
I'm all for the best price and the best deal, but the least expensive
isn't always the best deal, and I'll never buy cheap batteries again.
The same holds true racing RC's, the fastest batteries with the longest

run times cost more than the cheap ones.


As an aside, the replacements for the dreaded green paperweights were
energizer brand, and they have performed great. I don't know where she

got them, but she found the store through froogle or a similar site. I

use maxamps.com for all my RC racing needs, but they may be overkill
for what you are looking to do.


Good luck, and let us know your battery choice and light life. I've
been considering a helmet-mounted niterider for some time.



- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

[email protected] wrote:
> Art Harris wrote:
> > [email protected] wrote:
> > > I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
> > > Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
> > > 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
> > > is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
> > > 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
> > > 3800 capacity.


> > That doesn't make sense. The 4200 mAh is cheaper than the 3800 and 4000
> > mAh?



> > Are these all the same brand?



> Different brands, different internet mail order places. The cheapest
> internet mail order place only carries 3500 and 4200 capacity. Not
> sure what brand other than the picture is of green batteries. Other
> source carries name brand 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. Sanyo and
> Panasonic.



> > A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
> > needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
> > draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
> > you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
> > compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
> > get it.



> So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
> batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
> 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
> less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
> minutes longer.



> Given the two low cost options of 3500 capacity for $2.60 each and the
> 4200 capacity for $4.30 each and the fact I need 10 batteries total.
> It looks like an extra $1.70 buys me 18 minutes difference between the
> two cells.



> > Art Harris




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9 From: Donald Gillies - view profile
Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 4:30 pm
Email: [email protected] (Donald Gillies)
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[email protected] writes:
>I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
>Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
>3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
>is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
>4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
>3800 capacity.



The 3500 mAh for $2.60/ea are the cheapest. The 4200 mAh for $4.30
are 2nd cheapest.


>How much real world difference is there between a 3500 and a 4200 and a
>4500 capacity?



NiMH batteries have a fairly steep failure curve. I think that the
mAh rating scheme is fixed no matter what the battery type,
i.e. something like "when power drops to 80% of initial level, battery
is finished." So you should get roughly 20% more life out of a 4200
mAh battery than a 3500 mAh battery.


>Will the NiteRider chargers charge all of these sizes of NiMH cells?
>The chargers are two kinds. One is a charge at full power until you
>unplug the thing. The other is charge at full power for 14 hours and
>then it goes to a trickle charge.



When a charger switches over to trickle-charge, the charging rate is
drastically reduced, e.g. by a factor of 30x (1000 mA to 35 mA)

http://www.powerstream.com/NiMHWMm.htm


so the charger is effectively finished doing work.


- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA


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10 From: Art Harris - view profile
Date: Wed, Oct 25 2006 6:04 am
Email: "Art Harris" <[email protected]>
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[email protected] wrote:

> Will the NiteRider chargers charge all of these sizes of NiMH cells?
> The chargers are two kinds. One is a charge at full power until you
> unplug the thing. The other is charge at full power for 14 hours and
> then it goes to a trickle charge.




Neither of those sounds like a "smart charger." If the cells are not
run down to the "knee in the curve," 14 hours may overcharge them. A
smart charger senses when full charge has taken place and then switches

to trickle.

If you really want to do it right, connect a 4-digit digital voltmeter
across the battery, and stop charging when the voltage just starts to
drop. That works for Ni-Cds, not sure about Ni-mH. At any rate, a 14
hour charger is considered a slow charger, so if you left it on for 16
hours, it wouldn't be too bad.


Art Harris


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[email protected] wrote:

> Why can't I charge up the new 4.0 amp hour battery packs? Do the 4.0
> amp hour cells have so much extra resistance over the original 3.8 that
> a new high power charger is needed? Does it make any difference which
> set of wires is connected to the + and - terminals of the in series
> battery pack?


Yes, the polarity is critical for proper charging of your batteries.
You need to have the positively charged lead from the charger going to
the positive terminal of the battery. That way you're running the
current through the battery in order to charge it. If hooked up in
reverse you'd be taking current out of the battery and discharging it
(and probably destroying the battery and/or charger in the process
unless the latter has protective circuitry).

Now when you connect the battery to a regular bulb it won't matter
which end is connected to which terminal since either direction of
current flow will light the bulb. However, that's not true for LEDs or
for any light that uses some electronic regulation.

For charging NiMH cells I'd highly recommend you get a smart charger
with electronic regulation that senses when the cells are fully charged
and cuts off the current to prevent damage from overcharging.
 
On 11 Jan 2007 17:33:43 -0800, [email protected] may have said:

>Does it make any difference which
>set of wires is connected to the + and - terminals of the in series
>battery pack?


Yes. Get it backwards and you'll either blow out the charger or (if
the charger is reverse-polarity protected) be unable to charge the
battery pack.

>The original battery packs had two wires going to the +
>terminal and two wires going to the - terminal. My friend put them
>back together the same way they were on the original battery packs.


If this were the case, I think that you would not be having a problem
right now. I suspect that the polarity is swapped.

>Based upon my experience with 120 volt house wiring, it makes no
>difference if you attach the hot or neutral wires to the brass or
>silver screws on the outlet. As long as you don't put them on the same
>screw at the same time, they work either way.


You may have some unpleasant educational events in your future.

House wring is AC, but batteries are DC. There are some fundamental
differences between the two which make it *absolutely critical* to pay
attention to the polarity of connections in any DC-powered device.
Get it wrong, and you'll let out all of the magic smoke that makes the
device work. This is almost certainly what happened when you plugged
in the now-dead charger. Reversing the polarity of a battery charger
that doesn't have reverse polarity protection in the circuit is worse
than a short-circuit; the misconnection adds the voltages together,
and maxes out the current at the highest level that the lower-current
device can deliver. This is almost always more than enough to
completely fry the lower-current device, sometimes dramatically.

Although AC has no polarity in the same sense as DC, the "hot" and
"neutral" must still be respected[1]. It will definitely make a
difference if you get the hot and neutral swapped on a device that has
a three-wire plug, or on a device that has the neutral grounded to the
case (as is often done with VCRs and amps sold in the US in my
experience, for one example.) Although the device may work if it's a
two-wire plug, literally shocking things will happen if you touch the
case of a device that has what should be the neutral connected to the
case in such an instance. (This is why the two-wire plug is slowly
being relegated to the dustbin.) On a three-wire-plug device, should
the case be bonded to the neutral, and the ground lead connected to
the case as well, the breaker will trip as soon as the device is
plugged into a socket where the neutral and hot leads are swapped...if
the socket is actually grounded, which is possibly not going to be the
case if someone clueless enough to ignore the hot/neutral issue was
doing the wiring.




[1] AC power has two additional characteristics that the average
person repairing house wiring usually does not need to understand;
phase and frequency. Aviation techs (and some others) had better have
a firm grip of the subject of frequency, because the typical aircraft
AC power system runs at 400Hz instead of 60Hz. Some international
travellers also need to know that the 50Hz AC current delivered in
much of the world will not always work with their familiar 60Hz
North-American-market equipment. In particular, an old-style
synchronous-motor alarm clock designed for 60Hz will take one hour and
twelve minutes to record the passage of one hour when run on a 50Hz
supply. OTOH, power transmission engineers (and some others who must
deal with the subject) are always concerned with AC phase due to a
number of technical issues that cause phase shift in transmission
lines and equipment[2].

[2] None of this has anything to do with the "phase" gibberish that
was inserted with wild abandon into far too many Star Trek scripts,
presumably by hack writers who had insufficient talent to find a more
original form of technobabble with which to dress up their fictional
violations of the laws of physics.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
On 11 Jan 2007 18:19:07 -0800, "peter" <[email protected]> may have
said:

>[email protected] wrote:
>
>> Why can't I charge up the new 4.0 amp hour battery packs? Do the 4.0
>> amp hour cells have so much extra resistance over the original 3.8 that
>> a new high power charger is needed? Does it make any difference which
>> set of wires is connected to the + and - terminals of the in series
>> battery pack?

>
>Yes, the polarity is critical for proper charging of your batteries.
>You need to have the positively charged lead from the charger going to
>the positive terminal of the battery. That way you're running the
>current through the battery in order to charge it. If hooked up in
>reverse you'd be taking current out of the battery and discharging it
>(and probably destroying the battery and/or charger in the process
>unless the latter has protective circuitry).
>
>Now when you connect the battery to a regular bulb it won't matter
>which end is connected to which terminal since either direction of
>current flow will light the bulb. However, that's not true for LEDs or
>for any light that uses some electronic regulation.


Polarity may also be critical for HID lights, where the voltage must
be stepped up to a higher value, typically via a polarity-sensitive
oscillator circuit driving a transformer. Somewhere in the past few
months, someone asked about the possibility that they might have blown
out an HID unit by reversing the polarity; the concensus was "Yes."

>For charging NiMH cells I'd highly recommend you get a smart charger
>with electronic regulation that senses when the cells are fully charged
>and cuts off the current to prevent damage from overcharging.


This is just as critical for extending the life of lead-acid packs.
Smart chargers can greatly extend the life of a lead-acid battery vs.
an unregulated or constant-output charger setup.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
Thanks everyone. I will try to figure out which of the two battery
packs is wired right or wrong and change the wires around. Its
problematic fixing two battery packs at once that look alike. Hard to
keep straight what you did to one or the other.

Any recommendation on a battery charger for the 4.0 Amp hour NIMH
batteries? One with smart charging ability and that circuit protector
in it to not blow up if an opposite polarity battery is plugged into
it. I have another battery pack that seems to not be holding its
charge as well as it should so it will likely be revamped in the next
year or so. Does Radio Shack carry the chargers? Other hobby stores?



[email protected] wrote:
> I ordered the 4/3A Sanyo 4.0 Amp hour NIMH battery cells from NiCad
> Lady. $6.50 per cell, 5 per pack, plus $5 to seld them together in
> series to create a 6 volt battery pack. $37.50 per pack. Two packs
> ordered. Plus about $10 shipping. Net about $42.50 per battery pack.
> OK so far. Had a friend solder the cables from my current NiteRider
> packs onto the new battery packs. The NiteRider original batteries
> were 3.8 Amp hour Sanyo cells. I still have two functioning old 3.8
> amp hour NiteRider battery packs in addition to the two new 4.0 rebuilt
> battery packs.
>
> Tried to charge them. Plugged the charger from my late 1990s NiteRider
> Digital Head Trip into one of the new 4.0 battery packs. Heard a
> "pop". Charger has not worked since. Charger did not charge the new
> battery pack. Charger can no longer charge up my other original
> NiteRider battery packs. This Digital charger charged at full power
> for 14 hours and then went to a trickle charge.
>
> Plugged the charger from my late 1990s NiteRider non digital Head Trip
> into the new 4.0 battery pack. Nothing popped. This charger just
> charges at full power until you unplug it. Simple charger. Left the
> charger on the new 4.0 battery pack overnight and nothing was charged.
> New 4.0 battery pack was still completely dead. I have used this
> charger on my old NiteRider 3.8 battery packs and it charges them up
> just fine overnight. So the charger still works. Before charging the
> new 4.0 battery packs I did plug them into my helmet light and the
> cells had enough juice in them from the factory to light up the light
> for a minute. So the cells in the new 4.0 battery pack seem to be
> welded together correctly based on this simple test of lighting up a 6
> volt light.
>
> Why can't I charge up the new 4.0 amp hour battery packs? Do the 4.0
> amp hour cells have so much extra resistance over the original 3.8 that
> a new high power charger is needed? Does it make any difference which
> set of wires is connected to the + and - terminals of the in series
> battery pack? The original battery packs had two wires going to the +
> terminal and two wires going to the - terminal. My friend put them
> back together the same way they were on the original battery packs.
> Based upon my experience with 120 volt house wiring, it makes no
> difference if you attach the hot or neutral wires to the brass or
> silver screws on the outlet. As long as you don't put them on the same
> screw at the same time, they work either way.
>
>
>
> Below is the original posting and replies from October 2006.
>
>
> 1 From: [email protected] - view profile
> Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 9:46 am
> Email: [email protected]
> Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
> Not yet ratedRating:
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>
>
> I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
> Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
> 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
>
> is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
> 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
> 3800 capacity.
>
> How much real world difference is there between a 3500 and a 4200 and a
>
> 4500 capacity?
>
>
> Will the NiteRider chargers charge all of these sizes of NiMH cells?
> The chargers are two kinds. One is a charge at full power until you
> unplug the thing. The other is charge at full power for 14 hours and
> then it goes to a trickle charge.
>
>
> Reply
>
> 2 From: Art Harris - view profile
> Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 11:28 am
> Email: "Art Harris" <[email protected]>
> Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
> Not yet ratedRating:
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>
>
>
> [email protected] wrote:
> > I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
> > Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
> > 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
> > is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
> > 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
> > 3800 capacity.

>
>
> That doesn't make sense. The 4200 mAh is cheaper than the 3800 and 4000
>
> mAh?
>
> Are these all the same brand?
>
>
> A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
> needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
> draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
> you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
>
> compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
>
> get it.
>
>
> Art Harris
>
>
> Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 3 From: [email protected] - view profile
> Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 3:01 pm
> Email: [email protected]
> Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
> Not yet ratedRating:
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>
>
>
> Art Harris wrote:
> > [email protected] wrote:
> > > I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
> > > Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
> > > 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
> > > is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
> > > 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
> > > 3800 capacity.

>
> > That doesn't make sense. The 4200 mAh is cheaper than the 3800 and 4000
> > mAh?

>
>
> > Are these all the same brand?

>
>
>
> Different brands, different internet mail order places. The cheapest
> internet mail order place only carries 3500 and 4200 capacity. Not
> sure what brand other than the picture is of green batteries. Other
> source carries name brand 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. Sanyo and
> Panasonic.
>
>
> > A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
> > needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
> > draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
> > you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
> > compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
> > get it.

>
>
>
> So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
> batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
> 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
>
> less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
> minutes longer.
>
> Given the two low cost options of 3500 capacity for $2.60 each and the
> 4200 capacity for $4.30 each and the fact I need 10 batteries total.
> It looks like an extra $1.70 buys me 18 minutes difference between the
> two cells.
>
>
>
> - Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
>
> > Art Harris

>
>
>
> Reply
>
> 4 From: Ben C - view profile
> Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 3:44 pm
> Email: Ben C <[email protected]>
> Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
> Not yet ratedRating:
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>
>
> On 2006-10-24, [email protected] <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
> > Art Harris wrote:

> [snip]
> > So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
> > batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
> > 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
> > less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
> > minutes longer.

>
>
>
> It may not be quite linear, especially with filament bulbs (like
> halogens). As soon as the battery voltage drops a bit, the bulb gets a
> bit dimmer, the filament cools, its resistance drops, and the current
> drawn is higher. This vicious circle soon finishes off the battery.
>
> This, I've heard, is one of the reasons the batteries last a lot longer
>
> with LED lights, because they don't have that characteristic. The
> resistance is constant above some threshold voltage (and below that you
>
> get nothing).
>
>
> Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 5 From: [email protected] - view profile
> Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 6:22 pm
> Email: [email protected]
> Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
> Not yet ratedRating:
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>
>
>
>
> - Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
>
> On Tue, 24 Oct 2006 16:44:21 -0500, Ben C <[email protected]> wrote:
> >On 2006-10-24, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> >> Art Harris wrote:

> >[snip]
> >> So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
> >> batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
> >> 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
> >> less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
> >> minutes longer.

>
>
> >It may not be quite linear, especially with filament bulbs (like
> >halogens). As soon as the battery voltage drops a bit, the bulb gets a
> >bit dimmer, the filament cools, its resistance drops, and the current
> >drawn is higher. This vicious circle soon finishes off the battery.

>
>
>
> This is essentially a non-issue with common secondary cells; they have
> such a sharp knee in the discharge curve that any cascading effect
> such as you describe makes no difference.
>
> Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 6 From: RonSonic - view profile
> Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 9:49 pm
> Email: RonSonic <[email protected]>
> Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
> Not yet ratedRating:
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>
>
> On 24 Oct 2006 14:01:07 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
> - Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
>
> >Art Harris wrote:
> >> [email protected] wrote:
> >> > I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
> >> > Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
> >> > 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
> >> > is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
> >> > 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
> >> > 3800 capacity.

>
>
> >> That doesn't make sense. The 4200 mAh is cheaper than the 3800 and 4000
> >> mAh?

>
>
> >> Are these all the same brand?

>
>
> >Different brands, different internet mail order places. The cheapest
> >internet mail order place only carries 3500 and 4200 capacity. Not
> >sure what brand other than the picture is of green batteries. Other
> >source carries name brand 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. Sanyo and
> >Panasonic.

>
>
> >> A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
> >> needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
> >> draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
> >> you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
> >> compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
> >> get it.

>
>
> >So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
> >batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
> >10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
> >less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
> >minutes longer.

>
>
> >Given the two low cost options of 3500 capacity for $2.60 each and the
> >4200 capacity for $4.30 each and the fact I need 10 batteries total.
> >It looks like an extra $1.70 buys me 18 minutes difference between the
> >two cells.

>
>
>
> While you're shopping, batteryspace.com took good care of me last year.
> They've
> got good prices on complete packs assembled in a bottle with cable.
> Hard to beat
> even doing your own soldering.
>
> Ron
>
>
> Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 7 From: amakyonin - view profile
> Date: Wed, Oct 25 2006 10:55 am
> Email: "amakyonin" <[email protected]>
> Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
> Not yet ratedRating:
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>
>
>
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > > A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
> > > needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
> > > draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
> > > you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
> > > compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
> > > get it.

>
>
> > So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
> > batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
> > 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
> > less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
> > minutes longer.

>
>
>
> It isn't quite so simple. The usable capacity depends on the load on
> the battery. A good example of this is shown here
> (http://www.powerstream.com/4_3.htm) where the higher capacity 4500 mAH
>
> Panasonic is demonstrated to have a higher internal resistance (slope
> of the line) than another brand. If you extend the line of the
> Panasonic to the right it will intersect the PowerStream 3850 mAH cells
>
> at about 6.25A. With any higher load the lower rated battery will
> outlast the Panasonic. The lost energy in the Panasonic is dissipated
> as heat in the battery.
>
> In a 6V system with a 10W and a 20W halogen you can draw 1.6A, 3.3A, or
>
> 5A so the Panasonic is still the better choice among these two. For
> typical bike halogen systems you won't be operating at high enough
> loads where the intersection of the load lines makes a difference in
> your selection so you can still base your decision on the rated
> capacity alone.
>
>
>
> > Given the two low cost options of 3500 capacity for $2.60 each and the
> > 4200 capacity for $4.30 each and the fact I need 10 batteries total.
> > It looks like an extra $1.70 buys me 18 minutes difference between the
> > two cells.

>
>
>
> I would go for the 4200 just because that extra 18 minutes is still
> very useful in the dark.
>
> Note that you should consider adding a Raychem Polyswitch in series
> somewhere in the pack to guard against a short circuit.
> Powerizer/Batteryspace has some of the battery pack specific versions
> but there is a bigger selection of the general purpose types at
> Digi-key. Make sure you get one with the trip point higher than the
> maximum current you expect to draw from the battery (or drive while
> charging).
>
>
> Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 8 From: dankap - view profile
> Date: Wed, Oct 25 2006 1:22 pm
> Email: "dankap" <[email protected]>
> Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
> Not yet ratedRating:
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>
>
> Beware the mysterious green batteries! Here at work, we needed eight
> AA rechargeable batteries. Since our office manager didn't like the
> radio shack prices, she found a set online. There were the dreaded
> green "value" batteries. After a few weeks of messing around with
> short, unreliable battery life, we ended up ordering a complete new
> set.
>
> The original green batteries are "Digi-USA Hitech" brand, and have
> small orange stripes on each end. I'm sure I could get permission to
> mail them out to you if you covered shipping, since I was told to
> dispose of them a while ago. The only reason I still have them is I
> wanted to recycle as opposed to trash, and have not taken the time. I
> sincerely believe they would not be worth the shipping cost, much less
> whatever "deal" they are advertised at. If the batteries you found are
>
> not the same as I described, this post may still serve as a warning.
> I'm all for the best price and the best deal, but the least expensive
> isn't always the best deal, and I'll never buy cheap batteries again.
> The same holds true racing RC's, the fastest batteries with the longest
>
> run times cost more than the cheap ones.
>
>
> As an aside, the replacements for the dreaded green paperweights were
> energizer brand, and they have performed great. I don't know where she
>
> got them, but she found the store through froogle or a similar site. I
>
> use maxamps.com for all my RC racing needs, but they may be overkill
> for what you are looking to do.
>
>
> Good luck, and let us know your battery choice and light life. I've
> been considering a helmet-mounted niterider for some time.
>
>
>
> - Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
>
> [email protected] wrote:
> > Art Harris wrote:
> > > [email protected] wrote:
> > > > I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
> > > > Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
> > > > 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
> > > > is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
> > > > 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
> > > > 3800 capacity.

>
> > > That doesn't make sense. The 4200 mAh is cheaper than the 3800 and 4000
> > > mAh?

>
>
> > > Are these all the same brand?

>
>
> > Different brands, different internet mail order places. The cheapest
> > internet mail order place only carries 3500 and 4200 capacity. Not
> > sure what brand other than the picture is of green batteries. Other
> > source carries name brand 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. Sanyo and
> > Panasonic.

>
>
> > > A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
> > > needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
> > > draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
> > > you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
> > > compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
> > > get it.

>
>
> > So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
> > batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
> > 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
> > less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
> > minutes longer.

>
>
> > Given the two low cost options of 3500 capacity for $2.60 each and the
> > 4200 capacity for $4.30 each and the fact I need 10 batteries total.
> > It looks like an extra $1.70 buys me 18 minutes difference between the
> > two cells.

>
>
> > > Art Harris

>
>
>
> Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 9 From: Donald Gillies - view profile
> Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 4:30 pm
> Email: [email protected] (Donald Gillies)
> Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
> Not yet ratedRating:
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> original | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
>
>
>
> [email protected] writes:
> >I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
> >Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
> >3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
> >is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
> >4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
> >3800 capacity.

>
>
> The 3500 mAh for $2.60/ea are the cheapest. The 4200 mAh for $4.30
> are 2nd cheapest.
>
>
> >How much real world difference is there between a 3500 and a 4200 and a
> >4500 capacity?

>
>
> NiMH batteries have a fairly steep failure curve. I think that the
> mAh rating scheme is fixed no matter what the battery type,
> i.e. something like "when power drops to 80% of initial level, battery
> is finished." So you should get roughly 20% more life out of a 4200
> mAh battery than a 3500 mAh battery.
>
>
> >Will the NiteRider chargers charge all of these sizes of NiMH cells?
> >The chargers are two kinds. One is a charge at full power until you
> >unplug the thing. The other is charge at full power for 14 hours and
> >then it goes to a trickle charge.

>
>
> When a charger switches over to trickle-charge, the charging rate is
> drastically reduced, e.g. by a factor of 30x (1000 mA to 35 mA)
>
> http://www.powerstream.com/NiMHWMm.htm
>
>
> so the charger is effectively finished doing work.
>
>
> - Don Gillies
> San Diego, CA
>
>
> Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 10 From: Art Harris - view profile
> Date: Wed, Oct 25 2006 6:04 am
> Email: "Art Harris" <[email protected]>
> Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
> Not yet ratedRating:
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> original | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
>
>
>
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > Will the NiteRider chargers charge all of these sizes of NiMH cells?
> > The chargers are two kinds. One is a charge at full power until you
> > unplug the thing. The other is charge at full power for 14 hours and
> > then it goes to a trickle charge.

>
>
>
> Neither of those sounds like a "smart charger." If the cells are not
> run down to the "knee in the curve," 14 hours may overcharge them. A
> smart charger senses when full charge has taken place and then switches
>
> to trickle.
>
> If you really want to do it right, connect a 4-digit digital voltmeter
> across the battery, and stop charging when the voltage just starts to
> drop. That works for Ni-Cds, not sure about Ni-mH. At any rate, a 14
> hour charger is considered a slow charger, so if you left it on for 16
> hours, it wouldn't be too bad.
>
>
> Art Harris
>
>
> Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
 
[email protected] writes:

> I ordered the 4/3A Sanyo 4.0 Amp hour NIMH battery cells from NiCad
> Lady. $6.50 per cell, 5 per pack, plus $5 to seld them together in
> series to create a 6 volt battery pack. $37.50 per pack. Two packs
> ordered. Plus about $10 shipping. Net about $42.50 per battery pack.
> OK so far. Had a friend solder the cables from my current NiteRider
> packs onto the new battery packs. The NiteRider original batteries
> were 3.8 Amp hour Sanyo cells. I still have two functioning old 3.8
> amp hour NiteRider battery packs in addition to the two new 4.0 rebuilt
> battery packs.


You might consider what I use for my NiteRider battery: make a
5-AA battery holder with the right connector on it, then use
ordinary NiMH AAs and recharge them in an ordinary NiMH
recharger. I use Duracell 2650-mAh NiMH batteries, which are
only about $12 for 4 (at Walgreens; probably cheaper elsewhere).
If you carry two sets of them, as I do, then that's 5.3 Ah for
$30 (actually $36 since they're sold in 4-packs) and the charger
is not single-purpose.
--
"Mon peu de succès près des femmes est toujours venu de les trop aimer."
--Jean-Jacques Rousseau
 
Russell Seaton asked:

> Any recommendation on a battery charger for the 4.0 Amp hour NIMH
> batteries? One with smart charging ability and that circuit
> protector in it to not blow up if an opposite polarity battery is
> plugged into it.


I got a charger from <http://www.batteryspace.com/> that has served
me well.

Take a look at:
<http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3005>
and
<http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2944>

I think either will do what you need; $26.95 and $34.95 plus the
cost of a connector to match your packs.

HTH,
Greg
--
=========================================================
"There's a train leaving nightly
called when all is said and done."

(Warren Zevon)
---------------------------------------------------------
My Photos-
http://www.gsevans.com/photography/

My Blog-
http://www.gsevans.com/blog/
 
[email protected] wrote:
> Thanks everyone. I will try to figure out which of the two battery
> packs is wired right or wrong and change the wires around. Its
> problematic fixing two battery packs at once that look alike. Hard to
> keep straight what you did to one or the other.
>
> Any recommendation on a battery charger for the 4.0 Amp hour NIMH
> batteries? One with smart charging ability and that circuit protector
> in it to not blow up if an opposite polarity battery is plugged into
> it. I have another battery pack that seems to not be holding its
> charge as well as it should so it will likely be revamped in the next
> year or so. Does Radio Shack carry the chargers? Other hobby stores?
>

Not sure if I already posted to this thread but I have some tips on
building battery packs here.

http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Battery/battery.htm
 
On 12 Jan 2007 08:38:49 -0800, [email protected] may have said:

>Any recommendation on a battery charger for the 4.0 Amp hour NIMH
>batteries? One with smart charging ability and that circuit protector
>in it to not blow up if an opposite polarity battery is plugged into
>it. I have another battery pack that seems to not be holding its
>charge as well as it should so it will likely be revamped in the next
>year or so. Does Radio Shack carry the chargers? Other hobby stores?


Try the hobby shops that specialize in radio control planes, boats and
cars. I'm told that many of those carry aftermarket smart chargers
for various capacities of battery pack.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 11:48:45 -0600, Werehatrack wrote:

> On 12 Jan 2007 08:38:49 -0800, [email protected] may have said:
>
>>Any recommendation on a battery charger for the 4.0 Amp hour NIMH
>>batteries? One with smart charging ability and that circuit protector
>>in it to not blow up if an opposite polarity battery is plugged into
>>it. I have another battery pack that seems to not be holding its
>>charge as well as it should so it will likely be revamped in the next
>>year or so. Does Radio Shack carry the chargers? Other hobby stores?

>
> Try the hobby shops that specialize in radio control planes, boats and
> cars. I'm told that many of those carry aftermarket smart chargers
> for various capacities of battery pack.


Most are for smaller batteries than that though, plus they're for a
specialty market and therefore expensive.

Try some of the online battery dealers like www.batteryspace.com. A
company called Maha makes good chargers for bike lights. Look for those.

Matt O.
 
> Based upon my experience with 120 volt house wiring, it makes no
> difference if you attach the hot or neutral wires to the brass or
> silver screws on the outlet. As long as you don't put them on the same
> screw at the same time, they work either way.


The polarity *does* matter. Most appliances will work when plugged into
an outlet with reverse polarity, but it bypasses some of the safety
measures that were built into your electrical distribution system. For
your safety, please wire them the right way or have an electrician do
your wiring.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu
 
On 11 Jan 2007 17:33:43 -0800, [email protected] wrote:

>I ordered the 4/3A Sanyo 4.0 Amp hour NIMH battery cells from NiCad
>Lady. $6.50 per cell, 5 per pack, plus $5 to seld them together in
>series to create a 6 volt battery pack. $37.50 per pack. Two packs
>ordered. Plus about $10 shipping. Net about $42.50 per battery pack.
>OK so far. Had a friend solder the cables from my current NiteRider
>packs onto the new battery packs. The NiteRider original batteries
>were 3.8 Amp hour Sanyo cells. I still have two functioning old 3.8
>amp hour NiteRider battery packs in addition to the two new 4.0 rebuilt
>battery packs.
>
>Tried to charge them. Plugged the charger from my late 1990s NiteRider
>Digital Head Trip into one of the new 4.0 battery packs. Heard a
>"pop". Charger has not worked since. Charger did not charge the new
>battery pack. Charger can no longer charge up my other original
>NiteRider battery packs. This Digital charger charged at full power
>for 14 hours and then went to a trickle charge.
>
>Plugged the charger from my late 1990s NiteRider non digital Head Trip
>into the new 4.0 battery pack. Nothing popped. This charger just
>charges at full power until you unplug it. Simple charger. Left the
>charger on the new 4.0 battery pack overnight and nothing was charged.
>New 4.0 battery pack was still completely dead. I have used this
>charger on my old NiteRider 3.8 battery packs and it charges them up
>just fine overnight. So the charger still works. Before charging the
>new 4.0 battery packs I did plug them into my helmet light and the
>cells had enough juice in them from the factory to light up the light
>for a minute. So the cells in the new 4.0 battery pack seem to be
>welded together correctly based on this simple test of lighting up a 6
>volt light.
>
>Why can't I charge up the new 4.0 amp hour battery packs? Do the 4.0
>amp hour cells have so much extra resistance over the original 3.8 that
>a new high power charger is needed? Does it make any difference which
>set of wires is connected to the + and - terminals of the in series
>battery pack? The original battery packs had two wires going to the +
>terminal and two wires going to the - terminal. My friend put them
>back together the same way they were on the original battery packs.
>Based upon my experience with 120 volt house wiring, it makes no
>difference if you attach the hot or neutral wires to the brass or
>silver screws on the outlet. As long as you don't put them on the same
>screw at the same time, they work either way.


OH BOY!!!
DC isn't AC. AC in not polarized, DC is. Polarity is EXTREMELY
important.
>
>
>
>Below is the original posting and replies from October 2006.
>
>
> 1 From: [email protected] - view profile
>Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 9:46 am
>Email: [email protected]
>Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
>Not yet ratedRating:
>show options
>Reply | Reply to Author | Forward | Print | Individual Message | Show
>original | Remove | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
>
>
>I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
>Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
>3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
>
>is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
>4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
>3800 capacity.
>
>How much real world difference is there between a 3500 and a 4200 and a
>
>4500 capacity?
>
>
>Will the NiteRider chargers charge all of these sizes of NiMH cells?
>The chargers are two kinds. One is a charge at full power until you
>unplug the thing. The other is charge at full power for 14 hours and
>then it goes to a trickle charge.
>
>
>Reply
>
> 2 From: Art Harris - view profile
>Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 11:28 am
>Email: "Art Harris" <[email protected]>
>Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
>Not yet ratedRating:
>show options
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>original | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
>
>
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
>> Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
>> 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
>> is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
>> 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
>> 3800 capacity.

>
>
>That doesn't make sense. The 4200 mAh is cheaper than the 3800 and 4000
>
>mAh?
>
>Are these all the same brand?
>
>
>A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
>needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
>draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
>you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
>
>compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
>
>get it.
>
>
>Art Harris
>
>
>Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 3 From: [email protected] - view profile
>Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 3:01 pm
>Email: [email protected]
>Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
>Not yet ratedRating:
>show options
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>original | Remove | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
>
>
>
>Art Harris wrote:
>> [email protected] wrote:
>> > I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
>> > Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
>> > 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
>> > is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
>> > 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
>> > 3800 capacity.

>
>> That doesn't make sense. The 4200 mAh is cheaper than the 3800 and 4000
>> mAh?

>
>
>> Are these all the same brand?

>
>
>
>Different brands, different internet mail order places. The cheapest
>internet mail order place only carries 3500 and 4200 capacity. Not
>sure what brand other than the picture is of green batteries. Other
>source carries name brand 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. Sanyo and
>Panasonic.
>
>
>> A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
>> needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
>> draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
>> you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
>> compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
>> get it.

>
>
>
>So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
>batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
>10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
>
>less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
>minutes longer.
>
>Given the two low cost options of 3500 capacity for $2.60 each and the
>4200 capacity for $4.30 each and the fact I need 10 batteries total.
>It looks like an extra $1.70 buys me 18 minutes difference between the
>two cells.
>
>
>
>- Hide quoted text -
>- Show quoted text -
>
>> Art Harris

>
>
>
>Reply
>
> 4 From: Ben C - view profile
>Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 3:44 pm
>Email: Ben C <[email protected]>
>Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
>Not yet ratedRating:
>show options
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>original | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
>
>
>On 2006-10-24, [email protected] <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>
>> Art Harris wrote:

>[snip]
>> So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
>> batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
>> 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
>> less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
>> minutes longer.

>
>
>
>It may not be quite linear, especially with filament bulbs (like
>halogens). As soon as the battery voltage drops a bit, the bulb gets a
>bit dimmer, the filament cools, its resistance drops, and the current
>drawn is higher. This vicious circle soon finishes off the battery.
>
>This, I've heard, is one of the reasons the batteries last a lot longer
>
>with LED lights, because they don't have that characteristic. The
>resistance is constant above some threshold voltage (and below that you
>
>get nothing).
>
>
>Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 5 From: [email protected] - view profile
>Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 6:22 pm
>Email: [email protected]
>Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
>Not yet ratedRating:
>show options
>Reply | Reply to Author | Forward | Print | Individual Message | Show
>original | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
>
>
>
>
>- Hide quoted text -
>- Show quoted text -
>
>On Tue, 24 Oct 2006 16:44:21 -0500, Ben C <[email protected]> wrote:
>>On 2006-10-24, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>>> Art Harris wrote:

>>[snip]
>>> So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
>>> batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
>>> 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
>>> less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
>>> minutes longer.

>
>
>>It may not be quite linear, especially with filament bulbs (like
>>halogens). As soon as the battery voltage drops a bit, the bulb gets a
>>bit dimmer, the filament cools, its resistance drops, and the current
>>drawn is higher. This vicious circle soon finishes off the battery.

>
>
>
>This is essentially a non-issue with common secondary cells; they have
>such a sharp knee in the discharge curve that any cascading effect
>such as you describe makes no difference.
>
>Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 6 From: RonSonic - view profile
>Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 9:49 pm
>Email: RonSonic <[email protected]>
>Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
>Not yet ratedRating:
>show options
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>original | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
>
>
>On 24 Oct 2006 14:01:07 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
>- Hide quoted text -
>- Show quoted text -
>
>>Art Harris wrote:
>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>> > I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
>>> > Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
>>> > 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
>>> > is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
>>> > 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
>>> > 3800 capacity.

>
>
>>> That doesn't make sense. The 4200 mAh is cheaper than the 3800 and 4000
>>> mAh?

>
>
>>> Are these all the same brand?

>
>
>>Different brands, different internet mail order places. The cheapest
>>internet mail order place only carries 3500 and 4200 capacity. Not
>>sure what brand other than the picture is of green batteries. Other
>>source carries name brand 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. Sanyo and
>>Panasonic.

>
>
>>> A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
>>> needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
>>> draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
>>> you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
>>> compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
>>> get it.

>
>
>>So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
>>batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
>>10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
>>less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
>>minutes longer.

>
>
>>Given the two low cost options of 3500 capacity for $2.60 each and the
>>4200 capacity for $4.30 each and the fact I need 10 batteries total.
>>It looks like an extra $1.70 buys me 18 minutes difference between the
>>two cells.

>
>
>
>While you're shopping, batteryspace.com took good care of me last year.
>They've
>got good prices on complete packs assembled in a bottle with cable.
>Hard to beat
>even doing your own soldering.
>
>Ron
>
>
>Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 7 From: amakyonin - view profile
>Date: Wed, Oct 25 2006 10:55 am
>Email: "amakyonin" <[email protected]>
>Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
>Not yet ratedRating:
>show options
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>original | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
>
>
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>
>> > A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
>> > needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
>> > draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
>> > you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
>> > compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
>> > get it.

>
>
>> So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
>> batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
>> 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
>> less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
>> minutes longer.

>
>
>
>It isn't quite so simple. The usable capacity depends on the load on
>the battery. A good example of this is shown here
>(http://www.powerstream.com/4_3.htm) where the higher capacity 4500 mAH
>
>Panasonic is demonstrated to have a higher internal resistance (slope
>of the line) than another brand. If you extend the line of the
>Panasonic to the right it will intersect the PowerStream 3850 mAH cells
>
>at about 6.25A. With any higher load the lower rated battery will
>outlast the Panasonic. The lost energy in the Panasonic is dissipated
>as heat in the battery.
>
>In a 6V system with a 10W and a 20W halogen you can draw 1.6A, 3.3A, or
>
>5A so the Panasonic is still the better choice among these two. For
>typical bike halogen systems you won't be operating at high enough
>loads where the intersection of the load lines makes a difference in
>your selection so you can still base your decision on the rated
>capacity alone.
>
>
>
>> Given the two low cost options of 3500 capacity for $2.60 each and the
>> 4200 capacity for $4.30 each and the fact I need 10 batteries total.
>> It looks like an extra $1.70 buys me 18 minutes difference between the
>> two cells.

>
>
>
>I would go for the 4200 just because that extra 18 minutes is still
>very useful in the dark.
>
>Note that you should consider adding a Raychem Polyswitch in series
>somewhere in the pack to guard against a short circuit.
>Powerizer/Batteryspace has some of the battery pack specific versions
>but there is a bigger selection of the general purpose types at
>Digi-key. Make sure you get one with the trip point higher than the
>maximum current you expect to draw from the battery (or drive while
>charging).
>
>
>Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 8 From: dankap - view profile
>Date: Wed, Oct 25 2006 1:22 pm
>Email: "dankap" <[email protected]>
>Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
>Not yet ratedRating:
>show options
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>original | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
>
>
>Beware the mysterious green batteries! Here at work, we needed eight
>AA rechargeable batteries. Since our office manager didn't like the
>radio shack prices, she found a set online. There were the dreaded
>green "value" batteries. After a few weeks of messing around with
>short, unreliable battery life, we ended up ordering a complete new
>set.
>
>The original green batteries are "Digi-USA Hitech" brand, and have
>small orange stripes on each end. I'm sure I could get permission to
>mail them out to you if you covered shipping, since I was told to
>dispose of them a while ago. The only reason I still have them is I
>wanted to recycle as opposed to trash, and have not taken the time. I
>sincerely believe they would not be worth the shipping cost, much less
>whatever "deal" they are advertised at. If the batteries you found are
>
>not the same as I described, this post may still serve as a warning.
>I'm all for the best price and the best deal, but the least expensive
>isn't always the best deal, and I'll never buy cheap batteries again.
>The same holds true racing RC's, the fastest batteries with the longest
>
>run times cost more than the cheap ones.
>
>
>As an aside, the replacements for the dreaded green paperweights were
>energizer brand, and they have performed great. I don't know where she
>
>got them, but she found the store through froogle or a similar site. I
>
>use maxamps.com for all my RC racing needs, but they may be overkill
>for what you are looking to do.
>
>
>Good luck, and let us know your battery choice and light life. I've
>been considering a helmet-mounted niterider for some time.
>
>
>
>- Hide quoted text -
>- Show quoted text -
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> Art Harris wrote:
>> > [email protected] wrote:
>> > > I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
>> > > Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
>> > > 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
>> > > is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
>> > > 4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
>> > > 3800 capacity.

>
>> > That doesn't make sense. The 4200 mAh is cheaper than the 3800 and 4000
>> > mAh?

>
>
>> > Are these all the same brand?

>
>
>> Different brands, different internet mail order places. The cheapest
>> internet mail order place only carries 3500 and 4200 capacity. Not
>> sure what brand other than the picture is of green batteries. Other
>> source carries name brand 3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. Sanyo and
>> Panasonic.

>
>
>> > A higher mAh capacity should last a proportionately longer time before
>> > needing to be recharged. Determine how much current your nightrider
>> > draws and how long you need it to operate between charges. From that
>> > you can determine your required mAh rating.Then add a safety margin and
>> > compare prices. If you can get a 4200 mAh capacity cheaper than a 3800,
>> > get it.

>
>
>> So it is a linear relationship. If the original 3800 capacity
>> batteries last 1:30 on 15 watt halogen, then a 4200 capacity will last
>> 10% longer. Or 9 minutes more. Or a 3500 capacity will last about 10%
>> less. About 9 minutes less. Or a 4500 will last 18% longer, about 16
>> minutes longer.

>
>
>> Given the two low cost options of 3500 capacity for $2.60 each and the
>> 4200 capacity for $4.30 each and the fact I need 10 batteries total.
>> It looks like an extra $1.70 buys me 18 minutes difference between the
>> two cells.

>
>
>> > Art Harris

>
>
>
>Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 9 From: Donald Gillies - view profile
>Date: Tues, Oct 24 2006 4:30 pm
>Email: [email protected] (Donald Gillies)
>Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
>Not yet ratedRating:
>show options
>Reply | Reply to Author | Forward | Print | Individual Message | Show
>original | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
>
>
>
>[email protected] writes:
>>I am replacing the battery cells in some NiteRider NiMH battery packs.
>>Battery size is 4/3A. They are available in mAh capacities of 3500,
>>3800, 4000, 4200, and 4500. The 3500 capacity is $2.60 each. The 3800
>>is $5.00 each. The 4000 is $6.50 each. The 4200 is $4.30 each. The
>>4500 is $7.00 each. I need ten of them. Original NiteRider cells are
>>3800 capacity.

>
>
>The 3500 mAh for $2.60/ea are the cheapest. The 4200 mAh for $4.30
>are 2nd cheapest.
>
>
>>How much real world difference is there between a 3500 and a 4200 and a
>>4500 capacity?

>
>
>NiMH batteries have a fairly steep failure curve. I think that the
>mAh rating scheme is fixed no matter what the battery type,
>i.e. something like "when power drops to 80% of initial level, battery
>is finished." So you should get roughly 20% more life out of a 4200
>mAh battery than a 3500 mAh battery.
>
>
>>Will the NiteRider chargers charge all of these sizes of NiMH cells?
>>The chargers are two kinds. One is a charge at full power until you
>>unplug the thing. The other is charge at full power for 14 hours and
>>then it goes to a trickle charge.

>
>
>When a charger switches over to trickle-charge, the charging rate is
>drastically reduced, e.g. by a factor of 30x (1000 mA to 35 mA)
>
> http://www.powerstream.com/NiMHWMm.htm
>
>
>so the charger is effectively finished doing work.
>
>
>- Don Gillies
>San Diego, CA
>
>
>Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space
>
> 10 From: Art Harris - view profile
>Date: Wed, Oct 25 2006 6:04 am
>Email: "Art Harris" <[email protected]>
>Groups: rec.bicycles.tech
>Not yet ratedRating:
>show options
>Reply | Reply to Author | Forward | Print | Individual Message | Show
>original | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
>
>
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>
>> Will the NiteRider chargers charge all of these sizes of NiMH cells?
>> The chargers are two kinds. One is a charge at full power until you
>> unplug the thing. The other is charge at full power for 14 hours and
>> then it goes to a trickle charge.

>
>
>
>Neither of those sounds like a "smart charger." If the cells are not
>run down to the "knee in the curve," 14 hours may overcharge them. A
>smart charger senses when full charge has taken place and then switches
>
>to trickle.
>
>If you really want to do it right, connect a 4-digit digital voltmeter
>across the battery, and stop charging when the voltage just starts to
>drop. That works for Ni-Cds, not sure about Ni-mH. At any rate, a 14
>hour charger is considered a slow charger, so if you left it on for 16
>hours, it wouldn't be too bad.
>
>
>Art Harris
>
>
>Reply Rate this post: Text for clearing space



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